Carosel43

yea, pretty much. the thing is i cant work out what happened. the bolt in question is a left hand thread and so should tighten with the engine running and not fall out, so...how has mine come loose? i did it up tight when i rebuilt the engine and cant understand why it would come loose. i am however annoyed with the design of the engine because if the backplate was deeper the bolt could not fall out without hitting the backplate first and alerting the operator to a problem before it destroys the engine

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bummer! []

According to the exploded diagram for this engine, there is supposed to be a lock washer under the master rod bolt. My engine did not have this washer installed, when I tore down my engine. So I ordered one. I got all my spare parts from an authorized dealer named Conrad, in Germany. The factory lock washer I got, was very slightly oversize. It is supposed to fit down inside the relieved area of the brass bushing, under the bolt head. The washer I received did not fit in there 'comfortably', but I made it fit anyway.

Did yours have the lock washer installed??

Carosel43

yes it did, which is again why i am really confused by this, i dont see how it could have come undone. also the bolt is now broken in half, i assume that happened after it fellout because if it didnt then one half would be in the crank pin. that brass washer thing is also in 2 bits and is totally mangled

Carosel43

buy the way your exploded diagram looks better than mine, and my part numbers dont match the conrad site, where did you get your part numbers?

Kmot

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The diagram is from the Conrad PDF manual that they have (had?) on their site.

When I was looking for parts, even though the Conrad number was different they still had the ASP (Sanye) number listed as well. IIRC. I did some cross reference on the numbers to be sure.

Yeah, since you even had the lock washer installed it is really puzzling how it could have come undone.

Carosel43

the bearing in the master rod is destroyed, but looking at it i think thats due to the jolt as the engine jammed up, so im going to assume the bolt came loose and then broke the rest, but i am totally at a loss for how it fell out. im future i will pay more attention to my crank case oil, i saw it had metal particals (brass) in it and flushed out the case, ran the engine again and the problem was gone, 2 flights later, bang!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Ah so, it would seem you had a warning sign then.

Sorry for your suffering, but let this be a lesson we all pay attention too!

ANY metal particles in the oil, is cause for concern and a teardown.

Carosel43

yes indeed, but i am still annoyed as the engine has always poured swarf out of every hole it has, the whole thing is just very poor quality, i think it must be one of the early ones. Anyway here is the photo of the master rod and the most badly damaged conrod, the other rods have minor bruising that i can gently file/polish out so there is no sharp edge for a fracture to form. i have got the uk supplier to email the factory for a quote on the spares, if they are not to expensive i will replace all the rods.

Kmot

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ASP radials are in stock at Hobby King:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8981

earlwb

It has me wondering. It might be better to go for the Siedel radials instead. Maybe they have better quality on the parts inside.

I am impressed with how well you got it apart, repaired and put back together again
It is a really nice job.

Carosel43

Siedel would be a much better bet, either that or saito. I have a saito 450 R3 and its just a delight and the 3 cylinder engines sound better than the 5. they have a more chunky sound and sound less like racing engines. my only complaint about the saito is fuel consumption is very high, but it hs got some serious power

earlwb

I know we only read about or see the folks who had problems with the ASP radial. But has anyone gotten one to run just fine out of the box without any problems or failures?

Pippin

From that I saw, Seidels are worse that ASPs. Anyway.

Mine (SC400) is just fine. But I use the rather expensive O.S. F glow plugs. Break in procedure should be executed according to the manual. I would not begin with a large prop until the engine has seen some gallons of fuel.

Carosel43

I also use os F plugs as i have never had a problem with them, but i have seen the seidel radials up close and they are a mile apart from the sc i have in terms of quality. Through a friend i also know a guy in canada who owns several seidel's and he swears by them. here in the uk the seidel 70cc is the same price or cheaper than the asp, i know which one i would have

Pippin

Seidel's look much better, definitely. But they are rather made for the showcase. For daily use, the FS400 is my favorite.

asp400oswankel

Hey guys, I just bought a brand new FS400ar and was wondering where i could get the nice CNC pins that Kmot got for his engine. Thanks!

Kmot

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They were custom made for me.

Kmot

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asp400oswankel, check your PM inbox.

asp400oswankel

Thanks! Iwill be ready, to purchase as soon as my engine arrives (from Hong Kong, China. that might take a while lol). Anyway, Iwas also curious about how to rework the cam followers without any machine tools (as i have none)so they don't grind the cam terribly, as I've heard.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I believe only the prototype lifters had flat bottoms, as on Pe Reiver's engine. But later versions, including mine, have radiused bottom lifters. So there is really nothing left to do to them.

Aluminum Overcast

Hey Tom (or anyone else who cares to comment)

Where would you suggest (if at all) to add another nipple onto the crank case to flush it out or add oil after runs? Could this be done without major disassembly?

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

hobbypartz.com is now showing this motor. They have a US warehouse, of course they are nitroplanes, so I am guessing that service will be fairly bad. It might be a good source for parts??

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

AO: I do not think it could be added without some major disassembly. If not disassembled, I guarantee you will get aluminum chips inside the engine. []

I could have added on to mine when it was fully disassembled but I decided it was not necessary. Just my opinion.

JeffH: Although they now are selling alleged ASP engines, one fellow bought a .28 and it had no branding on it whatsoever! In any case, they do not service a single item they sell. They are an importer and retailer of model products. If it breaks, and it is under warranty, you send it back for a new one. They do not carry spare parts or do any servicing of anything.

asp400oswankel

Ok guys, I got it all together but I’m having some minor problems. I reassembled the engine with the nice link pins and made sure cam timing was correct, as well as the different length pushrods and pushrods covers were installed accordingly. I also checked the valves to make sure they move freely. It seems great without glow plugs, but when I put glow plugs in, it seems there is so much compression that the prop is hard to turn over. Is this normal for a new engine? My electric starter cannot turn it over, and I can’t get it to spin much by hand either. I also could use some help with how to wire os-type F plugs to hobbico 1.5 volt batteries (i have 2) with the standard harness that comes with the engine.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

No, that does not sound good. Even with glow plugs installed you should be able to turn it over by hand, against the compression of each cylinder. The cylinder pressure I measured with a gauge was around 60 PSI. Your electric starter might just not have enough oomph. Mine needed 24 volts to get a good spin on the engine.

Anyway, if you can turn the engine over without glow plugs installed, it does not sound like you have a mechanical problem.

But if it become extremely difficult to turn over with the glow plugs installed, I would check that the glow plugs are the correct length, IE not touching the pistons at TDC. Also, make sure all excess oil is drained out so you are not fighting against a hydraulic lock.