ASP/MAGNUM FS400AR Rebuild/Overhaul
10-24-2021, 04:05 PM
#3326
Would anybody happen have a spare cylinder liner and piston ring, or at least cylinder liner kicking around? I think the liner and piston from the FS80 will work on this engine as well. One of the liners is badly scored from debris in the engine sadly; restored everything else to 'like new' condition but can't get around the scratched up liner unfortunately!
10-24-2021, 05:21 PM
#3327
Junior Member
Thanks Darkith. I've emailed JustEngines to check, and I'll see what they say tomorrow. If nothing surfaces, hopefully you don't mind if I PM you and offer you some money for the liner 
10-25-2021, 05:05 AM
#3328
10-25-2021, 05:26 AM
#3329
No idea, probably not a direct fit. But it is a really simple construction (5 straight pipes, sliding over the original pipes of the engine, sealed with pieces of HT Silicone tubing) and if you provide them with accurate info on the relevant dimensions of your sirius, pretty sure they can set you up with one.
Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
10-25-2021, 05:46 AM
#3330
No idea, probably not a direct fit. But it is a really simple construction (5 straight pipes, sliding over the original pipes of the engine, sealed with pieces of HT Silicone tubing) and if you provide them with accurate info on the relevant dimensions of your sirius, pretty sure they can set you up with one.
Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
Their exhaust ring looks a bit clumsy, but I can assure anyone, it really works excellent and sounds good.
No complaints here though.... They sound great either way!
05-18-2023, 12:30 PM
#3332
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Bearing change
Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
05-18-2023, 03:40 PM
#3333
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Port LincolnSouth Australia, AUSTRALIA
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Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
05-18-2023, 07:04 PM
#3334
Thanks for that info Darkith.
My Ziroli 77" Stearman is probably going to come in close to 10kg (22 lb) but hoping I'm over estimating. I have weighted my test stand and then the fuselage with wings, wheels etc and it is about 20lb
I have run the motor with the vent plugged and unplugged. I feel more comfortable running it with it plugged as like you seeing the oil ooze out from around the push rod tubes gives me a bit of piece of mind.
I have been thinking of drilling the valve covers on each side, putting pressure nipples in and linking them all with tubing. It would allow us to add oil into all the rockers and if you vent this instead of the crank then that would allow more oil to make its way up the push rod tubes. It also adds a bit more scale realism
My Ziroli 77" Stearman is probably going to come in close to 10kg (22 lb) but hoping I'm over estimating. I have weighted my test stand and then the fuselage with wings, wheels etc and it is about 20lb
I have run the motor with the vent plugged and unplugged. I feel more comfortable running it with it plugged as like you seeing the oil ooze out from around the push rod tubes gives me a bit of piece of mind.
I have been thinking of drilling the valve covers on each side, putting pressure nipples in and linking them all with tubing. It would allow us to add oil into all the rockers and if you vent this instead of the crank then that would allow more oil to make its way up the push rod tubes. It also adds a bit more scale realism
Thanks. Aaron (hyjinx)
05-18-2023, 09:13 PM
#3335
Hi if anybody is still checking this thread...
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
I'm doing a bearing change on my 400 and was surprised to see the original front bearing with 2 rubber shields.
Is the consensus to remove the inside shield from the front bearing as you find in most glow engines, or is there a good reason to keep both shields on there as originally supplied from the factory?
Also, any ideas how to remove the front idler gear bearing from the front housing? It doesn't look or feel bad but for a few £s I might as well change it while its all apart if it can be extracted easily.
Cheers
But I can tell you this: there is zero advantage in removing the inner seal of the front bearing. That bearing is greased for life, and all that that seal removal is going to do, is give the acidic combustion residue from running fuel containing Nitro a better access to the innards of that bearing. There is not all that much flow in that location, so not much "fresh" oil either. It won't improve lubrication, it won't improve bearing life and the gain in RPM really is totally negligable.
Better leave it in place. The difference won't be shocking, but even a little bit better, still is "better".
05-19-2023, 04:27 AM
#3336
Since I never opened my own AR400, can't help you on the idler gear bearing.
But I can tell you this: there is zero advantage in removing the inner seal of the front bearing. That bearing is greased for life, and all that that seal removal is going to do, is give the acidic combustion residue from running fuel containing Nitro a better access to the innards of that bearing. There is not all that much flow in that location, so not much "fresh" oil either. It won't improve lubrication, it won't improve bearing life and the gain in RPM really is totally negligable.
Better leave it in place. The difference won't be shocking, but even a little bit better, still is "better".
But I can tell you this: there is zero advantage in removing the inner seal of the front bearing. That bearing is greased for life, and all that that seal removal is going to do, is give the acidic combustion residue from running fuel containing Nitro a better access to the innards of that bearing. There is not all that much flow in that location, so not much "fresh" oil either. It won't improve lubrication, it won't improve bearing life and the gain in RPM really is totally negligable.
Better leave it in place. The difference won't be shocking, but even a little bit better, still is "better".
I did my FR-300 a few years ago with OEM Japan bearings throughout. Have lots of trouble free hours on it since with 15/15 home brew Klotz techaplate..
In it. It weeps a little lightly rust stained oil from the base pushrod tubes in the winter but I don't freak out about it. The cams replaced (OEM) are unplated from the factory. I don't believe the wear trails are being degraded substantially.. the light rust is coming from the sides I believe. Flip starts and runs great with tons of power. Everyday flyer. I use it as a warm up before my bigger planes , with bigger radials lol.
05-20-2023, 12:44 PM
#3338
I agree. With a caveat. Recently on all re bearing projects I stopped removing shields. I now only source bearings from high end suppliers mfd in Germany Japan and USA. The sealed for life is a good recommendation unless using lesser quality Chinese imports. According to the manufacturers listed. And for the reasons you state. Just passing on what I was told by Motion Industries, my new source...
I did my FR-300 a few years ago with OEM Japan bearings throughout. Have lots of trouble free hours on it since with 15/15 home brew Klotz techaplate..
In it. It weeps a little lightly rust stained oil from the base pushrod tubes in the winter but I don't freak out about it. The cams replaced (OEM) are unplated from the factory. I don't believe the wear trails are being degraded substantially.. the light rust is coming from the sides I believe. Flip starts and runs great with tons of power. Everyday flyer. I use it as a warm up before my bigger planes , with bigger radials lol.
I did my FR-300 a few years ago with OEM Japan bearings throughout. Have lots of trouble free hours on it since with 15/15 home brew Klotz techaplate..
In it. It weeps a little lightly rust stained oil from the base pushrod tubes in the winter but I don't freak out about it. The cams replaced (OEM) are unplated from the factory. I don't believe the wear trails are being degraded substantially.. the light rust is coming from the sides I believe. Flip starts and runs great with tons of power. Everyday flyer. I use it as a warm up before my bigger planes , with bigger radials lol.
SKF, FAG, NSK, Nitto, all good, anything else, I first use google.
05-20-2023, 03:17 PM
#3339
Years ago I got Harley bearings from a supplier known as Detroit Ball Bearing. Forgot about them. Another friend in the hobby reminded me about that . Now known as Motion Industries in my area. Shipping all the best to me at twice the price, but happy to pay it.
Aaron-
05-20-2023, 11:47 PM
#3340
No offense, but I don't think this is the place to be political...
Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
05-21-2023, 04:14 AM
#3341
No offense, but I don't think this is the place to be political...
Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
Personally, I just google "bearings" and up pop some suppliers that sell various brands. I buy from whoever supplies reputable brand names and can deliver the quickest. Some vendors only carry SKF but only those sizes that have high volume, others specialize in the rarer sizes but that means they have different brands as well. As long as it's reputable, it's all good to me.
I have been fooled a few times with "RC specialized" vendors that offered aftermarket bearing sets for specific engines only to find out that the bearings either did not fit (OS changed their bearing specs a few time, and just my luck I had the "other" version) or bearings were of the cheapest no-brand quality, so I won't ever do that again. I check size myself, and order to that.
I mean, I can make mistakes too, and then it is just myself to blame. Bit more digestable than being duped by someone else's mistake...
Same experience for me. Measure first or be sometimes disappointed with part number equivalent. Lol
Flying the FR-300 today, hope you get out too. Fair winds and happy landings B 67 . 🙂
05-21-2023, 09:06 AM
#3342
politics are a dark and muddy water lol. Correct, probably not for a hobby forum.
Same experience for me. Measure first or be sometimes disappointed with part number equivalent. Lol
Flying the FR-300 today, hope you get out too. Fair winds and happy landings B 67 . 🙂
Flying the FR-300 today, hope you get out too. Fair winds and happy landings B 67 . 🙂
05-22-2023, 03:34 AM
#3343
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Haverhill, UNITED KINGDOM
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Thanks for all the useful comments.
After a clean-out my cam idler gear bearings look and feel pretty decent so I'm just going to change out the front & rear main bearings which I can source fairly easily as SKF branded :-) To be honest they don't feel too bad either but now they're out I might as well, and they're really not 'that' expensive compared to the value of the engine to me, in my opinion.
The reason I stripped the engine down in the first place is because after a lengthy period of storage where the engine was treated to after-run and then stored in a polythene bag for several years, it was completely stuck solid. On dissassembly I found all the link pins and wrist pins had stuck solidly in both ends of the connecting rods and the master rod small end. They weren't rusty as such, but quite black in places. Eventually a good dousing in WD40 and some gentle heat persuaded it all to start moving enough to get it apart. There was some moderate rust however on the crank web so I feared the worst about how the cam and its gearing might be, but once the front housing was off to my relief the cam and gears look really good. The gears are black so I assume they're treated in some way?
I'm hoping to put this engine into regular service as long as it all goes back together and I think I'll probably remove the back and liberally oil it at the end of each season to preserve it.
After a clean-out my cam idler gear bearings look and feel pretty decent so I'm just going to change out the front & rear main bearings which I can source fairly easily as SKF branded :-) To be honest they don't feel too bad either but now they're out I might as well, and they're really not 'that' expensive compared to the value of the engine to me, in my opinion.
The reason I stripped the engine down in the first place is because after a lengthy period of storage where the engine was treated to after-run and then stored in a polythene bag for several years, it was completely stuck solid. On dissassembly I found all the link pins and wrist pins had stuck solidly in both ends of the connecting rods and the master rod small end. They weren't rusty as such, but quite black in places. Eventually a good dousing in WD40 and some gentle heat persuaded it all to start moving enough to get it apart. There was some moderate rust however on the crank web so I feared the worst about how the cam and its gearing might be, but once the front housing was off to my relief the cam and gears look really good. The gears are black so I assume they're treated in some way?
I'm hoping to put this engine into regular service as long as it all goes back together and I think I'll probably remove the back and liberally oil it at the end of each season to preserve it.
05-30-2023, 02:27 AM
#3345
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Just Engines in the UK still have them listed...
https://www.justengines.co.uk/shop/e...v=79cba1185463
https://www.justengines.co.uk/shop/e...v=79cba1185463
