Stickbuilder

The last photo shows Mike's Waco on final, just prior to touchdown. Notice the attitude of the plane, and you should know that we were in the middle of about a 20 MPH quartering Cross Wind at the time. Says something about his ability to fly the model. His flights have been very smooth, and his ability to handle the normally windy conditions at Top Gun speaks volumes for his flying ability. The big ol' Vulcan was an amazing plane as well. Greg Hahn's new D-18 Beech is a beautiful model as welll.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RCBOATMANIAC

John // Bill,
Well the Million dollar trivia question has been answered! So a Classic Waco it is and a Classic Waco it shall be! To have to go through all the extra work just to add a little here and a little there just ain't worth having a Super Waco even thou the tail feathers look nice, but I can live without the nice. After seeing the Albatros it is going to add a little to the Pie pan of something to be built here in the near future. Bill if you can PM the email address to me for Dave I will most definetly be contacting him to get the plans. I found a set of plans last night on EBay, it is for a 1/5 scale Albatros with a 71" WS, but I am not sure what size Dave's is but it looks to be more than 71" on the WS.

On another note I finally got the chance to get the Fuselage all ribbed out, I was finally able to get caught up on the Honey Do's list so I could go and work on the Waco a little. Next step is to get the tail feathers attached or maybe before that I'll do the fairing around the bottom wing first that way I wont have to worry about banging up the tail wings. Still in all flying season is here and I need to get her done.

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

Bill ,thanks for the info on big red. Fantastic photos thanks ......... Jacque

Stickbuilder

Dave,

Dave Johnson will be sending you the files for you to download so you can get the plans printed from them. He does not have an available set of plans per se, but you should be able to assemble them from the files. I don't know if they are dxf or what. I'll pm you right now with his info. He probably won't get home before Monday night, and I would reccomend giving him some decompression time. This event takes the life out of everyone. It's like a giant sponge. Five days of concentrated effort robs you of all energy, regardless of whether you are a competitor, judge, or whatever. It is a giant effort, that when it's over, requires some time to recover. It's a wonderful feeling though, and one that I would not trade any modelling experience for. Every model builder in the world should attend at least once.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RCBOATMANIAC

Thanks Bill,
I went ahead and sent him an email just to show him I am interested.

Stickbuilder

I was hoping that someone from Sierra Giant Scale would be there, but no dice. Oh, well, the homebuilt set of working gear is beginning to look more and more attractive. I'm looking at what should work best for the damper and plunger setup.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RICKSTUBBZ

C’mon Bill, just do-it and git’r’done

All kidding aside, with your building talents, I have no doubt that you will be able to build a really nice gear.
The gear that SuperCubMan put together looks pretty darn nice.



On a different note: I have started a build thread for my Citabria Pro.[sm=50_50.gif] http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7426963/tm.htm . This will be my first practice build in preparation for the WACO. Not to mention the first time I have ever put my work out there for everyone to see[X(]. I will be trying out several building ideas along the way to see how they work for me. Not to mention, I’ll try to apply what I have learned on this thread into building. The thread is in it’s infancy right now. But, I would like to have you guys drop in on the thread now and again and keep me pointed in the right direction[sm=confused.gif]. Just for the record, this thread (WACO Brotherhood) will remain in my daily routine.

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Hello all

Bill Thanks for all the great Top Gun pictures you posted. I wish I had more time to talk with you I really enjoyed meeting Janelle she’s a fine lady.
I also meet Mike Barbee a first class person all the pictures in the world can’t compare with seeing his Waco close up the craftsmanship in this aircraft is unbelievable.
So here’s where I’m at I hope I done this right. To mount the bottom wing and check the dihedral I first leveled up a peace of 4� aluminum on my table then I leveled the fuselage with the wing over the aluminum checking the wing tips I was within a 1/16 in then setting the dihedral gage on the wing it was almost dead on 0 deg. I hope this is good please let me know what you think. Then I’ll start on the top side.

RCBOATMANIAC

Well I made my first attempt at doing a wing fairing[X(], but for some reason it just doesn't look right. I was looking at a picture of a 1934 YMF-5 NC14067 and it looks close, but not sure. I was trying to do the wing fairing like the one on NC14081, but failed badly[)]. Here is a couple of pics that way one of you guys can let me know if I need to make any adjustments to it, at the moment it is just rough sanded to shape haven't done any smooth sanding yet. I figured that I would post these pics before I started the other side.

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

Dave where are your photos? They didn't come thru.


Jacque Waoo Brotherhood 27

Jacque

My Feedback: (22)

OK I guess I spoke to soon..........Jacque

Stickbuilder

Dan,

Does your kit call for zero on the bottom wing? Look again. Your method is good, but I'm sure that you missed the incidence call out.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Stickbuilder

Rick,

On mine, I build the fairing from the bottom of the wing, back to the transition point, and then fill the top to blend. Looks like you tried to use the top of the wing and that's the reason that the fairing looks as though something is missing. I think that if you add a filler piece to the bottom, and then continue the upper section until they blend together, you will like the look much better.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Bill

I checked my plans and they show top & bottom wing at 0 deg incidence and the stabilizer to be 2 deg positive. If I have to change the wing now would be the time to do it I don’t have my wing fairing built yet.
I hope I don’t have a set of bad plans.

skylarkmk1

Dave,

I believe you need to extend the fuselage side of the fairing back almost back to the bulkhead just to the rear of where you ended it now. The bottom stringer appears to be correct, just a bit short to give it the long and lean look of the early fairings. From the photos I have looked at on the NWC site, the fairing seems to end slightly behind the wing trailing edge. Take a look at the NWC photos of N 86Y (pic 30), N 14051, N 14082 (all on page 2) and 14134 and 14132 (pics 64 & 68) on page 3.

I can understand the problem trying to do the newer style fairing as seen on NC 14081. They end 1 stringer above the corner and have a much greater reflex on the underside and look heavy and thick in comparision.

An additional thought on your rudder question from last week. The original U/YMF-3s had a slightly shorter and smaller rudder/fin originally. My understanding is that most had them replaced with the larger "-5" rudder/fin.

Stickbuilder

Dan,

I haven't looked at the plan for some time. I just checked, and if you are on zero to the datum line (crutch) you are good to go.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

RCBOATMANIAC

John,
So what your saying is like what Bill said earlier the transition point would end just in front of former F-10B and one rib higher than where I ended, then that shouldn't be to hard to fix and adjust just add a piece of wood to the bottom so I can fill in and extend it back and another piece of wood to extend it up to where it will end at former F-10B. Then it will be filling and shape sanding again and pray I get it right!![)] .

On the rudder's you pretty much answered my question, but it isn't worth the extra effort just to have a different style rudder. I'll just stick to the old classic style rudder since that is the look I am working for "Old School" look and appreance. The Classic Waco!

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

Bill,

Thanks now I think I’ll try my hand at the wing fairings I’m really nerves about making them for some reason. Can you tell me what kind of filler you use? I will be keeping my eyes on Dave’s progress.

Dave,

Keep the pictures coming on your wing fairings I need all the help here I can get.

skylarkmk1

Dave,

The lower corner side stringer that you are currently using is correct one for the 1930 era fairing, just a little longer (almost to F-10B). The bottom of the fairing is almost straight and flat.

For the modern 1980s YMFs, one stringer up, and end about where you have it, just short of the wing trailing edge. The bottom of the fairing curves up to meet the top. (see Img 4699 on the CD and the fuselage side view "Fillet Outline" on the Pica plans on the House of Moy site).

mrdhud

My Feedback: (48)

skylarkmk1

John, I would like to buy one of your cds if you have any more.

Thanks

RCBOATMANIAC

Dan,
I'll try my best I am trying to conserve what hair I have left on top it is really getting thin if you know what I mean , I am really trying for the early to mid 30's era for the fairing I really don't like the looks of the newer style.

John thanks for the info on the fairing I'll get the tip extended back some more and try to get it blended to flow right. As I posted earlier this the web page I was looking at for the fairing http://www.nationalwacoclub.com/f3f5...4067%2002.html if it will let you go to it. This is the second picture I was looking at http://www.nationalwacoclub.com/f3f5...C86Y%2002.html it to bad I couldn't get a look at the bottom of the fairing for the planes, but as you said I pretty much have the bottom right just need to extend it out more.

skylarkmk1

Dan,

See post 5281, page 212 for more info. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you my P.O. address.

Stickbuilder

Dan,

I made the Bottom piece (the part that follows the curve of the wing) from 1/64 ply. I filled between the stringers with 1/16 balsa. To form the fillet, I use lightweight spackle (Red Devil is good). This stuff is light, really light, and sands well. Give it a couple of coats of Nitrate dope to seal after sanding, and it gets slick as glass. When you are applying it, you can wet your finger and really minimize the amount of sanding that you will have to do. If you wind up with a few low spots or voids, just go back and put in a little more, and sand it again.

Bill, AMA 4720
WACO Brotherhood #1

Flytoolow

My Feedback: (17)

i got a lot...about 1000 pix from top gun 08....follow the links

[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/Tripp5050/Top%20Gun%2008/]Album 1[/link]

[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/Tripp5050/Top%20Gun%2008_2/]Album 2[/link]

[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/Tripp5050/Top%20Gun%2008_3/]Album 3[/link]

[link=http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/Tripp5050/Top%20Gun%2008_4/]Album 4[/link]

aminiet

Excellent pictures Ron. That B 17 in album 1 is like watching 12 o'clock high in color.

Angel