WACO YMF
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file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/25408_1052818317.jpg file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/103977.jpg file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/ac567102.jpg
dan, the first picture is the factory paint of the bird i'm using, the second is as it stands today the third is fill. since i'm building for me not scale i'm going to use the blue with the the side stripes and rudder markings of the green version.
dan, the first picture is the factory paint of the bird i'm using, the second is as it stands today the third is fill. since i'm building for me not scale i'm going to use the blue with the the side stripes and rudder markings of the green version.
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Barth YMF 1/3
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Well, It's aluminum on the full scale. I feel sure it does not contain any compound curves, so on a model of that scale, very thin aluminum should work. On my Pica 1/5 scale is just balsa sheet and finished to look like metal ( at lest that's what I intended). I would not recommend a plastic unless it's going over a solid surface, as I think it could deform pretty easily.
Dash
Dash
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Dan, here goes again the blue is my intended color choice with the stripes and numbers of the green. the blue is its factory color the green is as it sits now in Ocala-if anybody is interested it is for sale!!file:///Users/cmelhus2/Desktop/untitled%20folder/
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Jim,
Thanks for the advice. I did locate some G-10 on the web. I was thinking 0.015 inch thick. Does that sound about right? I have no experience with it.
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Thanks for the advice. I did locate some G-10 on the web. I was thinking 0.015 inch thick. Does that sound about right? I have no experience with it.
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Last edited by hopkimf; 07-05-2014 at 03:57 PM.
Barth YMF 1/3
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
Here's an old build photo of YMF fuse I found here long ago. Notice the thin sheeting attached to fuse. I was going to leave it off, but decided to go ahead and put it on. Can anybody tell me the material, thickness, and source. I'm guessing it's mylar or something similar.
Thanks,
Mike Hopkins
Waco Brotherhood # 132
.5 alloy and there is compound curves.
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I use aluminum flashing for a lot of panels. But one time I needed more flexibility than the aluminum would give, due to the compound curves. On a smooth surface I laminated 2 plies of 3/4oz glass, 18" wide by 24" long, and it turned out so well I am using it instead of metal. Adding another layer really stiffens it up, so 3ply seems to be real good, and a little bit of heat on the glass makes it very pliable for a compound curve.
Just some food for thought.
Just some food for thought.
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to all for what its worth, the 1/4 Barth uses a ply covering of about 1/64, a metal appearance can be achieved with a product called flite-metal at flitemetal.com. most of the metal finishes seen is this product, they explain how to achieve the compound curves in their instructions. good luck and happy hunting..
Chris melhus,ceije 196
Chris melhus,ceije 196
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Well, I may have brought home a convert . Had the chance to put flights 3 & 4 on the logs with the cowl mounted and although had tons of trouble with other things, (dead flight case battery, Harvard fuel system issue, etc) was pleased with its presence on the ground and in the air. Only a bit more tweaking to trims and aileron expo to get the feel the way I like. With the gap at the back of the cowl did not seem to suffer any cooling problems at all and I have to say that bump cowl makes all the difference to the appearance.
Wind started to pick up as day progressed and grass was causing a bit of fun with the wheel pants. Ground looped on the first attempt to hold the tail level. Remember this sort of thing with full-size, so should have been on the ball.
My friend that almost exclusively flies turbines now joined me and as I was preparing the WACO, left him to the sticks on my Super Skybolt, (used to be his anyway). He always states regret he let that one go, but not a thing about finding another. So, was a bit surprised after I let him play with the sticks for a couple flights and while putting things away he asked me to keep my eyes open for one this size or larger........
Wind started to pick up as day progressed and grass was causing a bit of fun with the wheel pants. Ground looped on the first attempt to hold the tail level. Remember this sort of thing with full-size, so should have been on the ball.
My friend that almost exclusively flies turbines now joined me and as I was preparing the WACO, left him to the sticks on my Super Skybolt, (used to be his anyway). He always states regret he let that one go, but not a thing about finding another. So, was a bit surprised after I let him play with the sticks for a couple flights and while putting things away he asked me to keep my eyes open for one this size or larger........
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Jim Henley,
Took your advice and located some .010 G-10 at Frank Tiano in FL. Another post here suggested a little heat for compound curves. It's mostly cylindrical but it does pull in a little toward the front. Should work. I like what tmac48 did, but I don't have the skill to pull it off. His work is great.
Mike Hopkins
WB # 132
Took your advice and located some .010 G-10 at Frank Tiano in FL. Another post here suggested a little heat for compound curves. It's mostly cylindrical but it does pull in a little toward the front. Should work. I like what tmac48 did, but I don't have the skill to pull it off. His work is great.
Mike Hopkins
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One question for the forum. Now that I'm confident nothing major needs to be changed, looking at adding flying wires. Need to be relatively quick to assemble/disassemble at the field.
Anyone have any ideas? Pics would be nice.
Anyone have any ideas? Pics would be nice.
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For my 1/5 scale I used 4-40 push rods with brass tubing flattened and solder on.
Last edited by acerc; 07-07-2014 at 05:17 PM.
I don't know how you got them to go on and look so perfect. Are they really that good in real life or are there imperfections that do not show up in photos?
How about I send you my cowl and you can do mine!
Impressed,tmac. PS the alloy is not hard to do at all, when done in sections as per the full scale. The only one that I found difficult was the rear cockpit but soon discovered that the rear of the cockpit cut out had to be opened up to allow for the panel to conform to the shape of the fuselage. I found that thin ply and thin plastic all required the same treatment as the alloy but the alloy had the advantage of being able to retain its shape.
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I don't know how you got them to go on and look so perfect. Are they really that good in real life or are there imperfections that do not show up in photos?
How about I send you my cowl and you can do mine!
Impressed,tmac. PS the alloy is not hard to do at all, when done in sections as per the full scale. The only one that I found difficult was the rear cockpit but soon discovered that the rear of the cockpit cut out had to be opened up to allow for the panel to conform to the shape of the fuselage. I found that thin ply and thin plastic all required the same treatment as the alloy but the alloy had the advantage of being able to retain its shape.
How about I send you my cowl and you can do mine!
Impressed,tmac. PS the alloy is not hard to do at all, when done in sections as per the full scale. The only one that I found difficult was the rear cockpit but soon discovered that the rear of the cockpit cut out had to be opened up to allow for the panel to conform to the shape of the fuselage. I found that thin ply and thin plastic all required the same treatment as the alloy but the alloy had the advantage of being able to retain its shape.
The builder (Mason) sent me that picture I haven't see the cowl close up yet I'm going over today and I will talk to him and find out if he had any problems. This was the last of the decals to be installed. I'll get more pictures today.