***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
#1351
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Salome, AZ
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Fiberglass specialties lists them
Fiberglass Specialties Inc Catalog
then go to the top of the pager for kit parts, then under Carol Goldberg
Fiberglass Specialties Inc Catalog
then go to the top of the pager for kit parts, then under Carol Goldberg
#1352
My Feedback: (6)
New member of the Cub club here. I just picked up what looks like an old Carl Goldberg cub with a smashed up tail and a beat up cowling. I think it was just a few steps away from the trash pile, but it will fly again.
My question for you guys out there is is a good source for a replacement cowling and where can I get some decent pictures of the suspension and wing struts so I can piece something together, as this one didn't come with those bits? I should be able to get some pics up this evening.
My question for you guys out there is is a good source for a replacement cowling and where can I get some decent pictures of the suspension and wing struts so I can piece something together, as this one didn't come with those bits? I should be able to get some pics up this evening.
#1354
My Feedback: (6)
New member of the Cub club here. I just picked up what looks like an old Carl Goldberg cub with a smashed up tail and a beat up cowling. I think it was just a few steps away from the trash pile, but it will fly again.
My question for you guys out there is is a good source for a replacement cowling and where can I get some decent pictures of the suspension and wing struts so I can piece something together, as this one didn't come with those bits? I should be able to get some pics up this evening.
My question for you guys out there is is a good source for a replacement cowling and where can I get some decent pictures of the suspension and wing struts so I can piece something together, as this one didn't come with those bits? I should be able to get some pics up this evening.
#1358
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
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You can buy replacement gear for the New Hanger 9 PA18 and the 1/4 scale J3 Cub that is almost the same as the Robarts gear and it is about 1/2 the price ..I would not hesitate to try it .. I just built a BUSA Cub and I put Robarts gear on it and I also put a Hanger 9 PA18 together and I was amazed at the gear they provided for it . It is very close to the Robarts gear..And so far it is standing up ..I believe it is around $ 75.00
#1359
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alem, SWEDEN
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HI,
Had my SIG 1/4 C/W CUB maidened a few weeks ago by a friend and today I took her up for three flights. Awesome, just like driving a bus and this is going to be a keeper!
Setup is a OS160 twin and other modifications were inspired by SunDevilPilot, split wing and door.
Have good day to all of the brothers
/Kurt
Had my SIG 1/4 C/W CUB maidened a few weeks ago by a friend and today I took her up for three flights. Awesome, just like driving a bus and this is going to be a keeper!
Setup is a OS160 twin and other modifications were inspired by SunDevilPilot, split wing and door.
Have good day to all of the brothers
/Kurt
#1362
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
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Hello Cub people. I have read all your posts and I'd like to join your club. I bought a SIG 1/6th kit back in the 70's intending to build it to match the 1941 J-3 I owned at the time. My first child was born, my priorities changed, I sold the J-3 (kick me now) and I haven't flown RC since. The SIG is still in the box!
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
#1363
My Feedback: (6)
Hello Cub people. I have read all your posts and I'd like to join your club. I bought a SIG 1/6th kit back in the 70's intending to build it to match the 1941 J-3 I owned at the time. My first child was born, my priorities changed, I sold the J-3 (kick me now) and I haven't flown RC since. The SIG is still in the box!
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
Mike
#1364
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
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Hello Cub people. I have read all your posts and I'd like to join your club. I bought a SIG 1/6th kit back in the 70's intending to build it to match the 1941 J-3 I owned at the time. My first child was born, my priorities changed, I sold the J-3 (kick me now) and I haven't flown RC since. The SIG is still in the box!
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
I recently moved into Oklahoma City and I'm working on cleaning up a couple of the old models I flew so long ago. Maybe I can get started on the Cub this winter. Hoping to use some of the tips and tricks I have already learned on this forum.
Number, please!
Steve.
SM
#1365
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Monroe,
NC
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Hey cub people from a long time cubber. I just picked up a kit built clipped wing job and wondered what kit it would be. It's 85" wingspan, 13" wing cord, 58" fuse length, and built up ailerons. Supposed to be a 1/4 scale oh and has separate struts (not braced together. I was thinking it might be a Sig but have no idea. Also what would be a good control surface distance to start with. Thanks for any info. Can't wait to get this bird in the air. Oh, another crazy question. Would rather it be a full wing cub by the way it's a one piece wing, but was thinking about adding 7 inches to each wingtip. Just wondered if I did would increasing the barn-door style ailerons affect control very much? I wouldn't think so on a cub.
Thanks, Jim
Thanks, Jim
#1366
That's roughly the size of the one piece wing on the Sig 1/4 clipped wing Cub.
BUSA uses a two piece wing, which could easily be clipped although that does not appear to be what you have.
All these kits are built with so many mods that it's hard to say what you have exactly without seeing it. For example, while Sig did not design their 1/4 size version with separate struts to each wing, that could easily be arranged. Their 1/6 size, which comes originally from Chuck Hollinger back about 1955 and later updated by Berkeley, had separate struts.
In any case, when the wings are clipped it's at the root end - not the tip. So top be correct, you'd need to break the wing and add at that end. If it's Sig, there would be two breaks to add at the outside edges of the wing center section, which is flat. The dehedral joint is at the ends of the center section.
IMO, there is no advantage to be gained by extending the wing. Having had and flown several clipped and full span versions in various scales, even when I get a builtm full span wing, out comes my giant carpenter's hand saw and it gets clipped.
All the best with your Cub.
BUSA uses a two piece wing, which could easily be clipped although that does not appear to be what you have.
All these kits are built with so many mods that it's hard to say what you have exactly without seeing it. For example, while Sig did not design their 1/4 size version with separate struts to each wing, that could easily be arranged. Their 1/6 size, which comes originally from Chuck Hollinger back about 1955 and later updated by Berkeley, had separate struts.
In any case, when the wings are clipped it's at the root end - not the tip. So top be correct, you'd need to break the wing and add at that end. If it's Sig, there would be two breaks to add at the outside edges of the wing center section, which is flat. The dehedral joint is at the ends of the center section.
IMO, there is no advantage to be gained by extending the wing. Having had and flown several clipped and full span versions in various scales, even when I get a builtm full span wing, out comes my giant carpenter's hand saw and it gets clipped.
All the best with your Cub.
#1367
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Monroe,
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Thanks do335a, actually I really wouldn't want to extend the wing but just didn't know how they flew clipped. I am trying it as is and if flys good I'll leave it. Plus this 85" one piece wing is plenty big as is to get to the field. I'm sure it will fly great with that big 13" cord wing. The other thing was not knowing how it would fly with the 91 OS 4 stroke engine. Seems like most put at least a 100 or more on the quarter scale cubs. And I'm sure like most of mine if it gets moving forward enough it will fly! I purposely underpowered my 76" Goldberg cub with at 40 OS 4 stroke and once in the air flys great. More like the real thing. Thanks again.
Jim
Jim
#1368
Fly good with a clipped wing? Great is more like it.
My 1/4 size was the Sig, built with the 1 piece wing, flown with wings and floats. Power was an O.S. 1.08 FSR with a 15-8 prop (largest 2 stroke single glow engine at the time). That plane would do anything that the full span version would do and then some. Way, way overpowered.
On water, hit full up elevator and full throttle and off it would go, with no take off run, straight out of the water. Of course, not need to be so extreme. Flew it that way just as a demo for the no-believers. The publc preferred a realistic take off with water dripping off the floats as it passed at eye level.
The GP 1/5 size which I acquired came with an OS 70 4 stroke and full span wing. That was proportionally less power. I immediately took the carpenter saw to the wing and clipped it. What an improvement! A guy at our club field just happedned by as I was flying it one day and wanted it right away. I know he's happy. Not so much me - he's got it now and I don't. That became another great flyer.
My first 1/6 size Sig version was powered with a G-Mark .30 twin. Having a full span wing, it was shall we say realisitic. My second Sig 1/6 size got the clipped wing treatment and had the same engine. Great improvement, as the G-Mark .30 twinhad all the power of about a .15 single cylinder engine.
Even with the clipped wing, they float. The ailerons are more than adequate because they are virtually full span. And you lose quite a bit of drag and weight as well. Mind you, while the shorter wing will provide a bit less lift, that was never an issue.
My 1/4 size was the Sig, built with the 1 piece wing, flown with wings and floats. Power was an O.S. 1.08 FSR with a 15-8 prop (largest 2 stroke single glow engine at the time). That plane would do anything that the full span version would do and then some. Way, way overpowered.
On water, hit full up elevator and full throttle and off it would go, with no take off run, straight out of the water. Of course, not need to be so extreme. Flew it that way just as a demo for the no-believers. The publc preferred a realistic take off with water dripping off the floats as it passed at eye level.
The GP 1/5 size which I acquired came with an OS 70 4 stroke and full span wing. That was proportionally less power. I immediately took the carpenter saw to the wing and clipped it. What an improvement! A guy at our club field just happedned by as I was flying it one day and wanted it right away. I know he's happy. Not so much me - he's got it now and I don't. That became another great flyer.
My first 1/6 size Sig version was powered with a G-Mark .30 twin. Having a full span wing, it was shall we say realisitic. My second Sig 1/6 size got the clipped wing treatment and had the same engine. Great improvement, as the G-Mark .30 twinhad all the power of about a .15 single cylinder engine.
Even with the clipped wing, they float. The ailerons are more than adequate because they are virtually full span. And you lose quite a bit of drag and weight as well. Mind you, while the shorter wing will provide a bit less lift, that was never an issue.
#1369
Thread Starter
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#188 Sgt. Meyer
#189 LarsL
Last edited by Cub Man; 10-25-2013 at 09:49 AM.
#1373
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Monroe,
NC
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Great just what I needed to hear. Just didn't have any experience with a clipped wing and was thinking they maybe flew not like a cub but maybe a sporter type airplane. Sounds like I'll like it. And another dead givaway that I didn't think about to figure out what it is not that it really matters is that it has a two piece massive bolt on metal painted landing gear. I think I have it ready to fly and hope to try it out this weekend if the wind will let up. Thanks again do335a! This is the 4th 1/4 scale cub I'm aware of close by. I hope we can get them all in the air at the same time and have a Cub Yellow overcast soon. The full scale B-17 "Aluminum Overcast" is coming here in a couple of weeks. Big airshow in Monroe NC next to Charlotte!