~~Sig Kadet Brotherhood~~.
10-30-2014, 12:12 PM
#1876
Just don't believe everything you read.
Take some time to analyze it. See if it makes more sense than just the face value of the statement. Also look at the practicality of the idea, even if it may be correct.
These are a few things that I have learned from the forums.
10-30-2014, 09:00 PM
#1877
Banned
About stalling characteristics
Hey folks ,,,,, Hello,
This Kadet with the flat bottom airfoil is intended to be able to fly slow.
I imagine that many will do so.
It means a high angle of attack of the wings and approach to stalling.
I have been thinking about building the wings wit some washout; perhaps 2 or 3 degrees.
2 degrees of wash-out would mean that while keeping the leading edge parallel to the flat workbench and the trailing edge at the wing root on ( touching ) the table the tip rib trailing edge could be raised by 1/2 inch. A 3 degrees would raise the tip rib trailing edge by 3/4 inch.
I think it may smooth out the stallling condition and help to keep lateral control using ailerons.
Of course it would make no noticeable difference if the angle of attach is changed rapidly.
The wing loading woul be higher near the fuselage and the wing drag would diminish toward the tips.
No doubt this plane flies nicely without washout but it might be an interesting slight modification easy to build in.
Has anyone considered that ? Any comments ?
Zor
This Kadet with the flat bottom airfoil is intended to be able to fly slow.
I imagine that many will do so.
It means a high angle of attack of the wings and approach to stalling.
I have been thinking about building the wings wit some washout; perhaps 2 or 3 degrees.
2 degrees of wash-out would mean that while keeping the leading edge parallel to the flat workbench and the trailing edge at the wing root on ( touching ) the table the tip rib trailing edge could be raised by 1/2 inch. A 3 degrees would raise the tip rib trailing edge by 3/4 inch.
I think it may smooth out the stallling condition and help to keep lateral control using ailerons.
Of course it would make no noticeable difference if the angle of attach is changed rapidly.
The wing loading woul be higher near the fuselage and the wing drag would diminish toward the tips.
No doubt this plane flies nicely without washout but it might be an interesting slight modification easy to build in.
Has anyone considered that ? Any comments ?
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-31-2014 at 09:09 PM. Reason: corrected woul to would upon reading again
10-30-2014, 09:35 PM
#1878
Banned
About incidences and decalage
I have not found any specifications ( yet ) on the drawings or in the manual.
My measurement on the drawings shows zero incidence for the stabilizer and 4 ( four ) degrees positive for the main wings.
That fits nicely for the best lift to drag ratio.
The wings thickess is 8.38% of the chord.
Relatively a thin wing airfoil.
Wing struts will be beneficial in high G maneuvers.
Zor
My measurement on the drawings shows zero incidence for the stabilizer and 4 ( four ) degrees positive for the main wings.
That fits nicely for the best lift to drag ratio.
The wings thickess is 8.38% of the chord.
Relatively a thin wing airfoil.
Wing struts will be beneficial in high G maneuvers.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-30-2014 at 09:37 PM.
10-31-2014, 08:54 AM
#1880
Banned
No preparation work today
My next work is to continue making the main spar joiner and the rear spar joiner so they are available to build the boxes into which they will fit in when I am building the wings.
I have to finish another project that is about 70% done. It is a winter 'cats house" that will be installed at an existing opening in the kitchen wall that was used for the milkman going door to door in the 1960s to deliver milk and cream. The inside house temperature and the cats' body heat ( 101.5 deg F ) will keep the cat' house warmer than the cold winter conditions we have here. That is my priority for the next few days. This year I have inherited of four cats and kittens that are wild and I have been feeding them with cats' food from the grocetaria and fresh water at all times for the last 3 months. No way I can approach them; they just quickly run away.
In a few days I will pursue the preparation work on the Kadet Sr.
Some of that work involves the wing to fuselage mounting and the detachable tail assembly.
Concerning a video of how the washout works _ _ _ on this airplane ( Kadet Sr. ).
The washout works similarly on any airplane. The washout idea is to have the wing roots reach the stalling angle and turbulent airflow sooner near the fuselage than at the outer part of the wings and maintain better aileron control when approaching the stalling angle. Since flying a model by RC from the ground we do not have the symptoms of the approaching stall ( or a stall warning indicator ) I believe that it might make the model stall smoother and eliminate what many refer to as "the quick wing tip stall" and its consequences particularly close to the ground like on approach to touch down in landing.
I do not see how a video could rell us ( show us ) the behavior of the airflow near the stalling angle of attack. The airflow is not visible without a wind tunnel facility. I also do not see ( mentally ) how or why would a tapered wing would be the reason for the necessity of a washout unless the airfoild is quite different toward the wing tips.
I always stand to learn more about aerodynamics _ _ _ such a fascinating subject.
I still hope to start the wing construction in early December.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-31-2014 at 09:03 AM. Reason: Correcting typos
10-31-2014, 09:40 AM
#1881
Yes, I know the theory behind washout is to make the wingtip stall after the wing root to maintain aileron authority and it makes a lot of sense if you have ever seen a tip stall. (I suspect a tip stall was a factor in the crash in Wichita yesterday.) On my Ryan SC the one detail I am replicating is the airbrake between the main gear. Ryan devised the airbrake instead of adding flaps to the wing, probably a good thing considering the taper. I have traded emails with several pilots of the full scale aircraft and was told the airbrake really didn't seem to affect the airspeed that much but it stopped the airplane's tendency to float during a landing attempt. I am curious to see if the 1/5 scale version I am building experiences the same flight characteristics. Attached is a photo to show what I am talking about. The second photo is a 1938 factory B&W of the prototype after it was converted to the production model and re-certified by the CAA, coming in on approach. The first airplane is still flying. It has been painted in a blue and gold livery. She was imported to Australia last year and is being lovingly cared for. This is also the only SC still flying that possesses the original Registration/S/N plate. I was fortunate to get a picture of it so I could have a decal made. Am I getting a little carried away on details on this project?
10-31-2014, 10:32 AM
#1882
Banned
I post for all readers and viewers
Blue text by Zor
Thanks for those beautiful pictures of a rare bird.
Zor
Yes, I know the theory behind washout is to make the wingtip stall after the wing root to maintain aileron authority and it makes a lot of sense
Please keep in mind that I do not post only for you or any specific individual; thus my address includes all viewers.
if you have ever seen a tip stall. (I suspect a tip stall was a factor in the crash in Wichita yesterday.) On my Ryan SC the one detail I am replicating is the airbrake between the main gear. Ryan devised the airbrake instead of adding flaps to the wing, probably a good thing considering the taper. I have traded emails with several pilots of the full scale aircraft and was told the airbrake really didn't seem to affect the airspeed that much but it stopped the airplane's tendency to float during a landing attempt.
Stopping or reducing the airplane tendency to float has a lot to do with the pilot's control.
Ideally, the proper approach speed should be reduced to just above stall during the flare out.
This Ryan SC could be debated whether it has an air brake or a perforated flap. Any device to incrase the downward acceleration of the airflow could be considered as being named a flap.
We will not discuss that I hope.
I am curious to see if the 1/5 scale version I am building experiences the same flight characteristics. Attached is a photo to show what I am talking about. The second photo is a 1938 factory B&W of the prototype after it was converted to the production model and re-certified by the CAA, coming in on approach. The first airplane is still flying. It has been painted in a blue and gold livery. She was imported to Australia last year and is being lovingly cared for. This is also the only SC still flying that possesses the original Registration/S/N plate. I was fortunate to get a picture of it so I could have a decal made. Am I getting a little carried away on details on this project?
You are certainly NOT carried away on details.
Details is what makes things a success instead of a failure.
It is much preferable to spend tme on details than time on explaining failures. L O L
Please keep in mind that I do not post only for you or any specific individual; thus my address includes all viewers.
if you have ever seen a tip stall. (I suspect a tip stall was a factor in the crash in Wichita yesterday.) On my Ryan SC the one detail I am replicating is the airbrake between the main gear. Ryan devised the airbrake instead of adding flaps to the wing, probably a good thing considering the taper. I have traded emails with several pilots of the full scale aircraft and was told the airbrake really didn't seem to affect the airspeed that much but it stopped the airplane's tendency to float during a landing attempt.
Stopping or reducing the airplane tendency to float has a lot to do with the pilot's control.
Ideally, the proper approach speed should be reduced to just above stall during the flare out.
This Ryan SC could be debated whether it has an air brake or a perforated flap. Any device to incrase the downward acceleration of the airflow could be considered as being named a flap.
We will not discuss that I hope.
I am curious to see if the 1/5 scale version I am building experiences the same flight characteristics. Attached is a photo to show what I am talking about. The second photo is a 1938 factory B&W of the prototype after it was converted to the production model and re-certified by the CAA, coming in on approach. The first airplane is still flying. It has been painted in a blue and gold livery. She was imported to Australia last year and is being lovingly cared for. This is also the only SC still flying that possesses the original Registration/S/N plate. I was fortunate to get a picture of it so I could have a decal made. Am I getting a little carried away on details on this project?
You are certainly NOT carried away on details.
Details is what makes things a success instead of a failure.
It is much preferable to spend tme on details than time on explaining failures. L O L
Zor
10-31-2014, 11:54 AM
#1883
Whether its a flap or an airbrake who cares as long as it works! My next purchase is the instrument panels. I have parts for two airplanes so I am building a production SC and the original prototype. The IP was fun to research no two SCs had the same panel it was built according to the purchaser's request or what Ryan had on hand.
10-31-2014, 02:13 PM
#1884
Am I alone in thinking that washout is unnecessary on the Kadet Senior. ?
I've never seen one drop a wing. Mine never did, and the others at my field.
Let's open this for discussion.
I don't feel that a flat bottomed airfoil requires washout. I have never, intil now, seen it designed in, or considered, for use on the Clark Y airfoil, even with a Phillips entry, such as the Kadet.
What do you guys think ?
I've never seen one drop a wing. Mine never did, and the others at my field.
Let's open this for discussion.
I don't feel that a flat bottomed airfoil requires washout. I have never, intil now, seen it designed in, or considered, for use on the Clark Y airfoil, even with a Phillips entry, such as the Kadet.
What do you guys think ?
10-31-2014, 02:22 PM
#1885
Banned
TomCrump,
No _ _ _ you are not alone.
If you have read the last three lines of post #1877 then you know that I am with you.
Zor
No _ _ _ you are not alone.
If you have read the last three lines of post #1877 then you know that I am with you.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-31-2014 at 02:27 PM.
10-31-2014, 05:04 PM
#1886
Banned
Determination not friendly
I was determined to make one of the wood lamination for the main spar joiner.
I found that my jig saw had given up; apparently burned out motor winding or worn out carbon on the armature.
When there is a will there is a way and my only way now was to use a #11 Xacto blade.
Birch plywood is pretty tough stuff but after more than an hour I got one piece cut out.
At the top of the picture is a lava flow sharpening stone that keep my blade razor sharp.
Tomorrow I am buying a new high quality new jigsaw. I have four more pieces to cut.
I decided to have 3 at the main spar and 2 at the rear spar with a dural as well at the rear spar.
My cat winter house is also progressing.
Zor
I found that my jig saw had given up; apparently burned out motor winding or worn out carbon on the armature.
When there is a will there is a way and my only way now was to use a #11 Xacto blade.
Birch plywood is pretty tough stuff but after more than an hour I got one piece cut out.
At the top of the picture is a lava flow sharpening stone that keep my blade razor sharp.
Tomorrow I am buying a new high quality new jigsaw. I have four more pieces to cut.
I decided to have 3 at the main spar and 2 at the rear spar with a dural as well at the rear spar.
My cat winter house is also progressing.
Zor
10-31-2014, 05:20 PM
#1887
Am I alone in thinking that washout is unnecessary on the Kadet Senior. ?
I've never seen one drop a wing. Mine never did, and the others at my field.
Let's open this for discussion.
I don't feel that a flat bottomed airfoil requires washout. I have never, intil now, seen it designed in, or considered, for use on the Clark Y airfoil, even with a Phillips entry, such as the Kadet.
What do you guys think ?
I've never seen one drop a wing. Mine never did, and the others at my field.
Let's open this for discussion.
I don't feel that a flat bottomed airfoil requires washout. I have never, intil now, seen it designed in, or considered, for use on the Clark Y airfoil, even with a Phillips entry, such as the Kadet.
What do you guys think ?
Having said all that, I can't help with how effective washout would be on a Kadet wing. I think it would have an effect but it seems likely that it would require more than the amount you would normally use on a semi-symmetrical wing.
OOps, Halloween and the door bell just rang.
Anyway, my two cents.
10-31-2014, 07:35 PM
#1888
I never looked to see what was called for on the plans, I've just always added a little washout to just about every wing I've ever built. Weather or not it helped is debatable, but it certainly never hurt. My clipwig Cub carries about 1 1/2 degrees, flys great despite a high wing loading. Seniorita has about 1 degree, but haven't gotten to fly it yet. My original Senior was flown anywhere from 3 degrees washout to about 2 degrees washin, depending on how bad the last landing was, not always equally in both wings either. It always flew fine.
I'd put in a little twist if you can do it easily, but the way a Kadet flys I don't think it will matter much.
I'd put in a little twist if you can do it easily, but the way a Kadet flys I don't think it will matter much.
10-31-2014, 09:50 PM
#1889
Banned
Decision made - Two degrees of washout
Hello,
I have done some research about washout used in full size airplanes.
My conclusion is that many are using some typically about 1 up to 3 degrees at the wing tips.
As mentioned in earlier postings, it does not do any harm noticeable. On that basis it might do some good at or near stalling.
My Kadet wings will be built with two ( 2 ) degees of washout at the tip rib. That means as previously calculated the tip rib trailing edge will be raised from the workbench by 1/2 inch keeping the trailing edge straight; a gradual change.
I am happy with that decision.
Zor
I have done some research about washout used in full size airplanes.
My conclusion is that many are using some typically about 1 up to 3 degrees at the wing tips.
As mentioned in earlier postings, it does not do any harm noticeable. On that basis it might do some good at or near stalling.
My Kadet wings will be built with two ( 2 ) degees of washout at the tip rib. That means as previously calculated the tip rib trailing edge will be raised from the workbench by 1/2 inch keeping the trailing edge straight; a gradual change.
I am happy with that decision.
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 10-31-2014 at 09:56 PM. Reason: Checking typos.
11-01-2014, 03:28 AM
#1890
I've flown my Kadet Sport ARF, with no washout, at nearly 0 ground speed, once backwards, in the wind. It never demonstrated a tip stall. That's why I asked the question.
The model retains control, until it stops flying. Then it dips the nose, moving straight forward. The other Kadets at my field exhibit the same qualities.
I've built in some washout on models, but not on trainer types.
The model retains control, until it stops flying. Then it dips the nose, moving straight forward. The other Kadets at my field exhibit the same qualities.
I've built in some washout on models, but not on trainer types.
11-01-2014, 05:12 AM
#1891
My Feedback: (98)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The Villages, Florida NJ
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Wing spars don't buckle in they bow outward when the wing fails.
11-01-2014, 07:11 AM
#1892
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Columbus,
OH
Posts: 3
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Kadet Sr.
How do I become a part of the brotherhood? I have a blog on my build that I completed a couple of years ago. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=139539
11-01-2014, 11:09 PM
#1894
Banned
The proper tooling
Got it done _ _ _ and broke my Kadet budget.
No more over an hour to cut only one hard birch plywod 1/8" thick using an Xacto blade #11.
I now whould take minutes to cut two simultaneously.
A variable speed jigsaw that goes from abut 10 strokes per second up tp unimaginable high speed, with the base adjustable up to 45 degrees both sides. Four blade return clearance adjustments, a dust blow out that can be on or off and blades made in Swetzerlannd with variable teeth spacing.
It will also cut the windows and the door of my cat winter house.
The joining inserts for the Kadet will now be a piece of cake.
The feeling is like _ _ _ undescribable.
Zor
No more over an hour to cut only one hard birch plywod 1/8" thick using an Xacto blade #11.
I now whould take minutes to cut two simultaneously.
A variable speed jigsaw that goes from abut 10 strokes per second up tp unimaginable high speed, with the base adjustable up to 45 degrees both sides. Four blade return clearance adjustments, a dust blow out that can be on or off and blades made in Swetzerlannd with variable teeth spacing.
It will also cut the windows and the door of my cat winter house.
The joining inserts for the Kadet will now be a piece of cake.
The feeling is like _ _ _ undescribable.
Zor
11-02-2014, 06:53 AM
#1896
How do I become a part of the brotherhood? I have a blog on my build that I completed a couple of years ago. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=139539
And here's the SIG Kadet Brotherhood, as I've got it today (3-columns):
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[TD]Thomas Pham[/TD]
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[TD]redjack[/TD]
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[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rdgettler[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]30[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Greg Davis[/TD]
[TD]90[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]DELTAFLY[/TD]
[TD]150[/TD]
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[TD]daddyvinny[/TD]
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[TD]31[/TD]
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[TD]CanDo[/TD]
[TD]91[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]sharpe917[/TD]
[TD]151[/TD]
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[TD]MartyPetriSr[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]32[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]gva1956[/TD]
[TD]92[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]jollyroger[/TD]
[TD]152[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]tomclark[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]33[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]metaldriver_2[/TD]
[TD]93[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Cliffc[/TD]
[TD]153[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]c-crunch[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]34[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Bladejunkie[/TD]
[TD]94[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]1320fastback[/TD]
[TD]154[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]BigTeeEldorado[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]35[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]New222[/TD]
[TD]95[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Captinjohn[/TD]
[TD]155[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]TomCrump[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]36[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]cubflyman[/TD]
[TD]96[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]spaceworm[/TD]
[TD]156[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]hiflyer15[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]37[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]dasquirrelisme[/TD]
[TD]97[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]EvanB[/TD]
[TD]157[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Fly North[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]38[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Planejaw[/TD]
[TD]98[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Major Tomski[/TD]
[TD]158[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]dwaynenancy[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]39[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]usc1990[/TD]
[TD]99[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Jim Branaum[/TD]
[TD]159[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]oinoyou[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]40[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]cjet[/TD]
[TD]100[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]WLM189[/TD]
[TD]160[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Jersy Hank[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]41[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Murphey[/TD]
[TD]101[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]skyraider71[/TD]
[TD]161[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]flashpilot[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]42[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Sandyt[/TD]
[TD]102[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rc lifer[/TD]
[TD]162[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Old_RC_Guy[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]43[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]planedriver_2[/TD]
[TD]103[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]NM2K[/TD]
[TD]163[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]TheComputerGeek[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]44[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]PT19[/TD]
[TD]104[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]terrysigcolt[/TD]
[TD]164[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]FloridaBeachFlyr[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]45[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]TimHendrix[/TD]
[TD]105[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]plane-o-joe[/TD]
[TD]165[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]aggieman[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]46[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]jessiej[/TD]
[TD]106[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]BobFE[/TD]
[TD]166[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Renegade[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]47[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Mr-Punk[/TD]
[TD]107[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]FLAPSDOWN[/TD]
[TD]167[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]T-47[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]48[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rccrasher65[/TD]
[TD]108[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]scttsprg[/TD]
[TD]168[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]SigSenior[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]49[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]FMAY[/TD]
[TD]109[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]sbrillha[/TD]
[TD]169[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Zor[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]50[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Hrannar[/TD]
[TD]110[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Mike Gretz[/TD]
[TD]170[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]WMB[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]51[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Razor44[/TD]
[TD]111[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]skyrat71[/TD]
[TD]171[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]skimmey[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]52[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Ken Kehlet[/TD]
[TD]112[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]lumppi[/TD]
[TD]172[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]paul7194[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]53[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]oldfartpilot[/TD]
[TD]113[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]bchapman[/TD]
[TD]173[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]bebopgolf[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]54[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Soaring Steve[/TD]
[TD]114[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]scoooper[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]55[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]freefall2907[/TD]
[TD]115[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]Jolly Popper[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]56[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]fix-n-fly[/TD]
[TD]116[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]CNY_Dave[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]57[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]SigMan[/TD]
[TD]117[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]rtn9105[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]58[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]eroc144[/TD]
[TD]118[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]mbnt[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]59[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]nextofkin[/TD]
[TD]119[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]crawler tech[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]60[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]ALT[/TD]
[TD]120[/TD]
[TD]-[/TD]
[TD]308jockey[/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
11-02-2014, 07:00 AM
#1897
Zor, that's a nice jigsaw, but ALL Bosch tools are nice. My own ancient jigsaw (30+ year old Craftsman) desperately needs replacement - one like yours would be a totally welcome addition to my shop. One day...
11-02-2014, 08:14 AM
#1898
Banned
The rear spar joiner will be cut with the dural and the two birch ply layers in one go-around after securing that the layers cannot shift. One of the blades package is marked " for aluminum" and for sure will also cut the wood.
It might be commented that a rear spar joiner is superflous. I would agree but I am not concerned when the strength to weight ratio is concerned. Like others I am building for a sport model. The instructions recommend to avoid flying if the wind exceeds 10 mph due to the light wing loading. I feel that I would like better wind penetration. I might program my transmitter for reflex and camber as well. I am always interested in studying how a model flies and responds to the Tx settings.
Meanwhile the coming building is a major part of my hobby enjoyment.
Zor
11-02-2014, 12:32 PM
#1899
Banned
Ailerons considerations
Hello All,
Spending hobby time to finish the cat's winter house.
I also started working on the details of the Kadet ailerons.
The ailerons leading edge will be at the rear face of the rear spar giving an aileron chord of 5 1/4 inches.
Their length will occupy 5 bays giving a length of 16 3/8 inches.
Five bays would remain for flaps if decided to build them.
Would it not be nice to have camber and reflex for the full span of the wings as well as studying what flaps would do to the Kadet Senior ? Plus more buildng time while enjoying building. I really enjoy gluing the wood pieces properly with good glue and do the glue filleting. Another factor in the strength to weight ratio.
I think I would use regular flaps hinged at the bottom of their leading edge; nothing fancy.
As many I imagine do, I take decisions as I go along.
Zor
Spending hobby time to finish the cat's winter house.
I also started working on the details of the Kadet ailerons.
The ailerons leading edge will be at the rear face of the rear spar giving an aileron chord of 5 1/4 inches.
Their length will occupy 5 bays giving a length of 16 3/8 inches.
Five bays would remain for flaps if decided to build them.
Would it not be nice to have camber and reflex for the full span of the wings as well as studying what flaps would do to the Kadet Senior ? Plus more buildng time while enjoying building. I really enjoy gluing the wood pieces properly with good glue and do the glue filleting. Another factor in the strength to weight ratio.
I think I would use regular flaps hinged at the bottom of their leading edge; nothing fancy.
As many I imagine do, I take decisions as I go along.
Zor
11-02-2014, 04:46 PM
#1900
Banned
More about ailerons
Hi guys,
I am trying to find a method of hinging the ailerons such as to avoid any big gap between the main wings and the leading edge of the ailerons. I would like to have an undisturbed airflow at the aileron transition when they are neutral and which does not affect the ailerons rotation up to 40 degrees. Any more rotation only increase drag and do little to lift.
I have two ideas which I will not mention at this moment so that it does not affect any help I may receive.
Any idea from brothers would be greatly appreciated.
The leasding edge of the ailerons has a thickness of 1 1/4 inch.
Any help _ _ _ ideas _ _ _ out there ?
Zor
I am trying to find a method of hinging the ailerons such as to avoid any big gap between the main wings and the leading edge of the ailerons. I would like to have an undisturbed airflow at the aileron transition when they are neutral and which does not affect the ailerons rotation up to 40 degrees. Any more rotation only increase drag and do little to lift.
I have two ideas which I will not mention at this moment so that it does not affect any help I may receive.
Any idea from brothers would be greatly appreciated.
The leasding edge of the ailerons has a thickness of 1 1/4 inch.
Any help _ _ _ ideas _ _ _ out there ?
Zor
Last edited by Zor; 11-02-2014 at 04:49 PM.