VincentJ

Thank you Mike! You can still find these kits if you're patient, but they don't give them away that's for sure. If you check out the prices of new kits similar in size, their in the 300.00+ price range. The quality though isn't the same...as an example, my Bravo came with a high quality cowl and wheel pants. I know if I were building a new kit today, I would be replacing the stock plastic parts with Fiberglass Specialties. That alone would more than make up the difference!

Work continues on the wheel pants...

Photo 1-2 I epoxied two small plywood plates on the inside of the wheel pants. The pants are secured to the landing gear with the two
4-40 x 1/2" Cap Head screws shown. I'm using them now to hold the plates in place until the epoxy sets. Notice that I didn't epoxy the Tee nuts in place as I usually do, I wanted the option to replace them should they ever need it.


Photo 3-4 I had to drill out the wheels to accept 1/4" axle bolts. This arrangement will allow side to side wheel adjustment so it can be centered in the wheel cut out. I like this set-up because there are no wheel collars to loosen and fall off.

Note: The threaded end of the axle nut will be trimmed and a chrome Acorn nut will be used on final assembly.

TomCrump

I've seen the kits go for more. A friend paid $350 for one, and $375 for a second.

VincentJ

The sun is finally out! I'm going to head out and do some yard work, but not before putting a second coat of finishing resin on first. I mixed the finishing resin to the same ratio and started with the same amount as before. Compare photo 1 (before) to photo 5 (after). Keep in mind both sides were coated this time as before only one side was done.

VincentJ

OK, I had enough of "yard work", the black flies are out and they are bothersome! Still waiting for the resin to cure, so I thought I would put the wing on and check the wing saddle for fit and fine tune as necessary. I would like to get the front of the fuselage in some glass soon.

Photo 1-2 Left and right wing saddle fit.

Photo 3 Transition of fuse to wing.

Photo 4-5 Wheel pants installation completed. (One detail that I will do is to round over the leading and trailing edges of the aluminum landing gear.)

VincentJ

Didn't spend a lot of time in the workshop today, after all it's Sunday,but I did glass these two items...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It's still progress!

VincentJ

Yes it is Mike.
I ordered the exhaust for my DA this morning, $169.00 ouch! Still need to buy a few more servos, prop and paint...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It's scary when you add up the final cost of a project isn't it? What exhaust system are you using?

VincentJ

I ordered it directly from Desert Aircraft, they sell Slimline products. (It's a Pitts wrap around muffler) I could have also gotten it from Jtech for the same price, but I prefer the welds on the Slimline better. Jtech does offer different sizes of Pitts wrap around mufflers in case space is an issue.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Sounds good.

VincentJ

I mentioned that I was going to round over the edges of the landing gear. I didn't like the look of the square edge, so I took a hand file and rounded them over. It looks like the gear was painted, but that's the color of raw aluminum after it comes out of the glass bead booth. The resulting finish from glass beading is the perfect prep for paint.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It does look better rounded over.

TomCrump

I like the look that the bead blaster provides. Any chance of leaving it that way ?

VincentJ

I like the look as well Tom, but I'm trying to replicate the way the plane looked when Hazel Sig owned the plane.

TomCrump

Makes sense. VJ.

Maybe you will get a chance to use the bead blast finish on a future build.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It would make a pretty finish on some future project.

raptureboy

Well you are progressing well. I would like to add a little to your glassing process if you do not mind. I too use the Zpoxy as it is easy to come by and works well. According to West systems thinning epoxy should never be done with solvent as it weakens the strength by more than 1/2. However, for our purposes if you are going to thin then the use of a solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner is preferred. I prefer acetone at about 25% to the mixed epoxy, the reason for this is acetone will flash off from the epoxy where alcohol contains water and it will be trapped under the epoxy sometimes never allowing it to cure completely. I only use one coat then a light sanding with 150 grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots where I may have added too much epoxy or gotten a run or two. The next trick is to use autobody primer filler, available at your local auto parts or body shop supplier. I reduce it by 25% then paint on with a cheap chip brush. This a much heavier primer than the stuff in spray cans and you need to use a respirator. When this dries, (15 min) I wet sand the entire part with 220 grit until the primer is almost completely sanded off. What will be left behind is the primer that went into the weave of the glass not filled by the epoxy. A final coat of the same primer thinned to spray consistency and then wet sanded with 400 grit will leave you with a surface smooth as 100yr old single malt scotch. Any areas that need touching up because the epoxy and primer did not fill in I spot putty with 3M glazing compound.

VincentJ

I've never used the West Systems for epoxying Cliff. I like using Z-poxy for the same reasons that you have mentioned. When I did my research (and testing) on different ways to lay down glass I was amazed to find so much diversity on techniques and product usage. I was looking for a method that I could easily replicate without creating a lot of odor and without adding too much weight while still providing good strength. The strength of this model doesn't come from the glass but rather the way the model was constructed. I glass mainly to provide a base on which I can apply paint and have it provide a reasonable amount of protection from hangar rash and dings. I find your method of filling the weave with auto-body primer filler thinned out and applied with a brush interesting and a method that I think I might like to try! I use the 3M Glazing compound as well, I really like it. Thanks for sharing...

TomCrump

If anyone is interested, here is a great price on a Bravo kit. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-s-Kit-86-Span

VincentJ

Wow, that is a great price. Thanks for posting that Tom...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

All the good kits come up for sale when I'm the most broke. I saw Tom's Bravo Kit and a SIG STA for $180 naturally the only thing in my wallet is a couple of moths that have starved to death. Some guys are born good looking, some rich as hell. And from personal experience I can tell you it's hell being beat out of both!

raptureboy

Thanks Vince for going to such great detail in your builds. I know it takes a lot of time to document, time that could be spent building for sure. Your builds have always been about what this site was supposed to be; a place to share ideas without criticism and we all can learn something. Looking forward to the maiden flight. You are going to fly this one right?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Anything built as great as this airplane deserves to be flown!

VincentJ

Thanks Cliff and Mike, I appreciate it. To answer your question if I am going to fly this one............................ .............YES! One hangar queen is enough!!!

VincentJ

Boy Tom, that sold quick!!!