sig kadet senior kit
#2
Senior Member
Have a look through these mate.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...ky-needed.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...n-newbies.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-building.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-question.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-building.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...ky-needed.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...n-newbies.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-building.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-question.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-building.html
#3
An x-acto knife, razor saw, pins and 2 bottles of medium CA should be all that you need to build a Kadet Senior kit. This assumes that you already have a flat building surface that accepts pins.
If you decide that you need more tools, I suggest that you purchase than as they are needed.
I built my trainer, using only an x-acto and the two bottles of CA.
In my opinion, it's impossible to cover all the bases before you build. Buying tools as they are required, gets you exactly what you need, and you are not buying stuff "just in case".
As your building experience grows, you will find gadgets that can make your life easier. What suites some, may not suit others. I've read threads that state such and such is absolutely required, and I've never used them in 50 years of building.
You'll love the Kadet Senior. I have two at the moment.
If you decide that you need more tools, I suggest that you purchase than as they are needed.
I built my trainer, using only an x-acto and the two bottles of CA.
In my opinion, it's impossible to cover all the bases before you build. Buying tools as they are required, gets you exactly what you need, and you are not buying stuff "just in case".
As your building experience grows, you will find gadgets that can make your life easier. What suites some, may not suit others. I've read threads that state such and such is absolutely required, and I've never used them in 50 years of building.
You'll love the Kadet Senior. I have two at the moment.
Last edited by TomCrump; 07-23-2016 at 06:41 AM.
#4
Built light the Senior is almost gravity defying, they really are that nice. Especially in low to no winds... and its a KILLER electric, slow and almost no sound but the air on the wings...
#6
Senior Member
I have one of those kits put aside for my son, (he's only three) when we build it, I'll probably include ailerons, but you don't need them.
One other glue you need for high stress areas is 2 part epoxy (30 min) you will normally use it for the firewall (where the engine mounts)
Generally just read through the forums and you'll find answers to questions you never even thought of asking.
I know I have learned a hell of a lot from reading others build threads, and others questions, and the answers they got.
I haven't looked at the kit instructions yet, but most sig kits are pretty good at telling you what you need, have a FULL read through that before starting.
One other glue you need for high stress areas is 2 part epoxy (30 min) you will normally use it for the firewall (where the engine mounts)
Generally just read through the forums and you'll find answers to questions you never even thought of asking.
I know I have learned a hell of a lot from reading others build threads, and others questions, and the answers they got.
I haven't looked at the kit instructions yet, but most sig kits are pretty good at telling you what you need, have a FULL read through that before starting.
#7
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Burleson,
TX
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This is my favorite glue to build with. I use some CA and of course epoxy but I am not in a hurry so don't mind a little extra drying time.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weldbond-...-545/203874337
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weldbond-...-545/203874337
#8
Ratshooter,
Does that glue dry more rubbery...or hard and brittle?..sanding properties? Also does it dry clear or opaque? Just curious.
I have been using the Gorilla glue for wood a lot lately dries clear and rubbbery, doesn't really sand down as smooth as some other things. But I like it..I think Woodbond 2 ? is the other harder yellowish glue I use. Some odorless CA and epoxy of course get used as well.
Does that glue dry more rubbery...or hard and brittle?..sanding properties? Also does it dry clear or opaque? Just curious.
I have been using the Gorilla glue for wood a lot lately dries clear and rubbbery, doesn't really sand down as smooth as some other things. But I like it..I think Woodbond 2 ? is the other harder yellowish glue I use. Some odorless CA and epoxy of course get used as well.
#9
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Burleson,
TX
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OK Weldbond is the same stuff as RC56 so I have been told. A little rubbery. If I need to sand an area I use Titebond original. I just don't like to use a lot of CA if I can get around it. The Weldbond dries really fast compared to Titebond. You can buy small bottles to try at Michaels Craft store. I bet you will like it. I have a syringe from the vet supply with the needle ground off and thats what I use to dispense the glue. Much neater than straight from the bottle. If it gets a little thick you can add water to thin it. Do a google search and read the spec sheet. It is impressive.
I have been using this glue since the early 1990s and hope it never goes away. I love the stuff. No fumes and its fuel proof. I use it in the engine area to fuel proof the wood. Best darn glue you will ever use.
I have even used it to glue the center section on a wing when I was out of epoxy. And I didn't even use fiberglass cloth. I used .010 pillow ticking I had on hand for patching round balls in my muzzleloader rifle. Here is a picture of that plane. I flew the snot out of it and the wing never failed. This is a Bridi Loadstar. And I have a new kit in my attic just waiting its turn on the building board.
I have been using this glue since the early 1990s and hope it never goes away. I love the stuff. No fumes and its fuel proof. I use it in the engine area to fuel proof the wood. Best darn glue you will ever use.
I have even used it to glue the center section on a wing when I was out of epoxy. And I didn't even use fiberglass cloth. I used .010 pillow ticking I had on hand for patching round balls in my muzzleloader rifle. Here is a picture of that plane. I flew the snot out of it and the wing never failed. This is a Bridi Loadstar. And I have a new kit in my attic just waiting its turn on the building board.
Last edited by ratshooter; 07-29-2016 at 07:03 PM.
#11
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Burleson,
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The syringe trick works really well. I think I have a #18 needle on my syringe with the tip ground off flat. You can clean the syringe with water when you are through. Just don't use dish soap (Dawn) in the syringe. It makes the rubber plunger swell up and ruins the needle.
When I was doing mobile home factory service work sometimes there would be a bubble in the lino flooring. So I would use a syringe with floor glue and the sharp point to shoot a little glue in the bubble then set a weight on it to glue it down. Thats where I got the idea from. You can leave the glue in the syringe and just insert a close fitting wire in the needle till you need it again.
When I was doing mobile home factory service work sometimes there would be a bubble in the lino flooring. So I would use a syringe with floor glue and the sharp point to shoot a little glue in the bubble then set a weight on it to glue it down. Thats where I got the idea from. You can leave the glue in the syringe and just insert a close fitting wire in the needle till you need it again.
#14
I have one of these kits in my inventory. As soon as I clear the bench, I'll be starting on it very soon as my winter project. in order to create a light, straight, and strong structure, good fitting joints are a must, particularly on a stick-built model such as this. To that end, I picked up a Fourmost miter sander from Tower Hobbies for around $20 I think. Although not absolutely necessary, I think it will make getting the correct angles of those uprights and diagonals a lot easier. You might want to check it out.
#15
#17
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#20
Yeah maybe just a tad. There used to be an A.M.A. cargo competition class. Do they still that? As I recall, the Senior Telemaster was used a lot in that category. F.A.I. keeps records on such things.
#21
My Feedback: (3)
1 gallon of fuel = 6.6 lbs. One Telemaster Senior out there, and it's an Engel too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191961795803...84.m1555.l2649 The extra 20" wingspan and larger fuselage would facilitate a gallon a lot easier and not be a problem with flight. Build it with dihedral taken out.
#22
1 gallon of fuel = 6.6 lbs. One Telemaster Senior out there, and it's an Engel too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/191961795803...84.m1555.l2649 The extra 20" wingspan and larger fuselage would facilitate a gallon a lot easier and not be a problem with flight. Build it with dihedral taken out.
#23
My Feedback: (3)
Forgot about that mammoth! http://www.hobbyexpress.com/12_ft._t...39257_prd1.htm
Only $900 on sale.
Imagine how much glue that takes? Monokote? When you crash it, you can make two or three .40 size planes from the busted up pieces.
Only $900 on sale.
Imagine how much glue that takes? Monokote? When you crash it, you can make two or three .40 size planes from the busted up pieces.
#25