Bud Nosen Citabria 40 Kit Build
#28
Thread Starter
Jenny Craig?! That's what I need desperately! I could stand to drop 30 or 40 pounds. Not as much as Kevin mind you, just to get back to my ideal cycling weight. That poor bicycle of mine!!!
Hey, back to the Citabria. Need servos for the ailerons but would like to keep the weight down as much as possible. This is a 40 size plane, could I get away with mini servos? I'm considering adding flaps as well as someone else suggested, he said he wished he had them on his to slow down the landing speed. Thoughts, ideas???
Hey, back to the Citabria. Need servos for the ailerons but would like to keep the weight down as much as possible. This is a 40 size plane, could I get away with mini servos? I'm considering adding flaps as well as someone else suggested, he said he wished he had them on his to slow down the landing speed. Thoughts, ideas???
Last edited by Cub Flyer Fresno; 01-14-2017 at 04:46 PM.
#29
Thread Starter
Strut mount blocks going in. It's funny, the instructions call for 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 hardwood blocks. The kit includes 3/4 x 3/4 x 3/8 plywood. The actual thickness required to keep it flush with the bottom of the wing is 1/32 less than that! Well, that's what makes it fun and interesting I guess. So I had to cut two of the blocks down by 1/32", 3/8" through, the thickness of the rear spar.
#30
Thread Starter
Progress Report! I got a little more done today, Got all the bottom cap strips on to a point. I will either go on to the wing tips or work on the aileron servo mod. (The plans call for one central servo.)
First of all though, how many of you remove dents with water and your iron? I've been doing this but these dents didn't come completely out, but good enough. I can fill those with Spackle.
Dent removal:
Cap strips:
First of all though, how many of you remove dents with water and your iron? I've been doing this but these dents didn't come completely out, but good enough. I can fill those with Spackle.
Dent removal:
Cap strips:
#31
Nice work there David, you just might get this one done in less than a year! You made mention to the possibility of using mini servos for weight savings. If this were mine I don't think I would chance a plane of this size to mini servos. Keep up the good work...
#32
Thread Starter
Thanks VJ and thanks for the tip. Yes, I will probably stick with the standard servos. I have an old servo with stripped gears that I'll use to make the mounts until I can buy new ones.
#34
There's more to servos than just torque. Mass plays a role. I'd be afraid that mini servo would not be able to withstand the stress placed on them by this sized model.
#35
Thread Starter
Thanks Tom, advice taken. I bought all Futaba S3010 servos. Probably overkill, but I'll be able to use them in my bigger planes as well.
Ya know, it's kind of funny. After building my 1/4 scale Cub and building on the Stinson, this looks small!
And one update: I got the rest of the cap strips in but got a little hung up on the wing tips, not enough pictures or diagrams for me to know how to build them. Guess I'm still somewhat of a rookie.
Ya know, it's kind of funny. After building my 1/4 scale Cub and building on the Stinson, this looks small!
And one update: I got the rest of the cap strips in but got a little hung up on the wing tips, not enough pictures or diagrams for me to know how to build them. Guess I'm still somewhat of a rookie.
#36
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Cub Flyer Fresno
Here's plans pics of the 1/4 sc Nosen Citabria for reference you requested. as you can seen, the 1/4 sc uses one large block to shape wingtip. sound slike 40 size uses the 3 pcs of stock to be shaped to a tip once they are glued together.Hope they help.
Here's plans pics of the 1/4 sc Nosen Citabria for reference you requested. as you can seen, the 1/4 sc uses one large block to shape wingtip. sound slike 40 size uses the 3 pcs of stock to be shaped to a tip once they are glued together.Hope they help.
#37
Thread Starter
Well would you look at that! Looks the same as mine only a larger scale! Hmmm... Phooey! Sorry, but that doesn't help much.
Okay, tell me this: The top of the wing stays constant all the way out to the tip, correct? Now I am assuming that the bottom side of the tip would have that constant angle all the way from the LE to the TE? For some reason I just cannot visualize this. I'm guessing you haven't finished your wings yet, I haven't seen them in you build log.
Okay, tell me this: The top of the wing stays constant all the way out to the tip, correct? Now I am assuming that the bottom side of the tip would have that constant angle all the way from the LE to the TE? For some reason I just cannot visualize this. I'm guessing you haven't finished your wings yet, I haven't seen them in you build log.
#38
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I have not done mine yet. they will be different as doing a bush plane variation similar to a "Denali Scout". The tips will be redesigned. one day,too may other projects lately.
as far as questions
top stays constant all the way out to tip. bottom is constant angle. cut/shape top profile first. then do side/angle profile.
heres a sweet looking full scale with good shot of tip and a full scale tip top side under covering
as far as questions
top stays constant all the way out to tip. bottom is constant angle. cut/shape top profile first. then do side/angle profile.
heres a sweet looking full scale with good shot of tip and a full scale tip top side under covering
Last edited by RagwingFan; 01-22-2017 at 05:54 PM.
#39
Thread Starter
Builders block I think it is....But...
Thinking about it really, really hard and for a looooong time, I came up with this. See if this looks right to you.
Pic 1: The pieces extending from the LE and TE are both 1/4". Therefore the LE should start at 1/4" down from the bottom of the top sheeting. (See the pencil) The TE will taper down to the thickness of the rest of the TE, or 1/8". (See T-Bevel) That, I believe, is the line I am missing in my head, and on the plans!
Pic 2: When I line up my wingtip block it fits perfectly under the sheeting at the apex of the airfoil.
Pic 3: I don't know why I included this! (I really don't!)
What do you think? I have finally got it???
David
Thinking about it really, really hard and for a looooong time, I came up with this. See if this looks right to you.
Pic 1: The pieces extending from the LE and TE are both 1/4". Therefore the LE should start at 1/4" down from the bottom of the top sheeting. (See the pencil) The TE will taper down to the thickness of the rest of the TE, or 1/8". (See T-Bevel) That, I believe, is the line I am missing in my head, and on the plans!
Pic 2: When I line up my wingtip block it fits perfectly under the sheeting at the apex of the airfoil.
Pic 3: I don't know why I included this! (I really don't!)
What do you think? I have finally got it???
David
#40
Thread Starter
I have not done mine yet. they will be different as doing a bush plane variation similar to a "Denali Scout". The tips will be redesigned. one day,too may other projects lately.
as far as questions
top stays constant all the way out to tip. bottom is constant angle. cut/shape top profile first. then do side/angle profile.
heres a sweet looking full scale with good shot of tip and a full scale tip top side under covering
as far as questions
top stays constant all the way out to tip. bottom is constant angle. cut/shape top profile first. then do side/angle profile.
heres a sweet looking full scale with good shot of tip and a full scale tip top side under covering
That is a good shot for the tip. Thanks!!!
#41
Thread Starter
So I went to work on the wingtip, almost experimental like.
I used wax paper to mark up a template to transfer over the wingtip block so I can mark and cut it.
After I took the second photo I noticed it wasn't quite perfect enough. I went back and fine tuned it with my sanding block.
Then I tack glued the tip into place to see how it lines up with the rest of the wing. Sure hope I'm doing this right!
Any comments? Like "WAIT! You're doing it wrong!" Or... "That looks like how I would do it." Or... _______________________ (fill in the blank)
David
I used wax paper to mark up a template to transfer over the wingtip block so I can mark and cut it.
After I took the second photo I noticed it wasn't quite perfect enough. I went back and fine tuned it with my sanding block.
Then I tack glued the tip into place to see how it lines up with the rest of the wing. Sure hope I'm doing this right!
Any comments? Like "WAIT! You're doing it wrong!" Or... "That looks like how I would do it." Or... _______________________ (fill in the blank)
David
#43
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#46
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Getting there, the tip from leading edge view will taper from bottom of last full rib to bottom of tip rib. Tip rib appears in right position. Looks like still need to cut angle of tip at leading edge. That will help the look. The top profile view. You're almost there.Viewing from phone as traveling today. That's what I can see.
#47
Thread Starter
Getting there, the tip from leading edge view will taper from bottom of last full rib to bottom of tip rib. Tip rib appears in right position. Looks like still need to cut angle of tip at leading edge. That will help the look. The top profile view. You're almost there.Viewing from phone as traveling today. That's what I can see.
Thanks man! now that's dedication to helping others, using you phone while traveling. I didn't want to do any more mods to it until I was sure I had it right. I'll shape the other one using this as a template before shaping and permanently gluing it. I must say, that was easier said than done.
#50
Thread Starter
Yup, got those. It's not trimmed yet as I don't have the LE (nor the TE for that matter) glued in. I didn't get a chance to work on it last night. I hope to finish up at least one wing tip tonight. So once I have the tip rib exactly how I like it, I will permanently glue it in place and proceed.
Thanks guys, much appreciated!
David