Calrl Goldberg Tiger 60 Build
#276
Your caution is well warranted Hydro. My shop air however has water separators which I tend to regularly as well as draining any water that will have accumulated in the bottom of the air tank. Thanks for the heads up, as many would learn about this problem the hard way...
#277
Thread Starter
Covering has begun on my Tiger. It's going on pretty well, but I have to say that I dislike the job. I would much rather be building a model than covering it. I like using Solartex, but these thin plastic coverings are my Nemesis. There is definitely a knack in doing it well and I admire those that have the talent to do so... Pictures will follow once the fuselage has been completed.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-22-2018 at 06:08 AM.
#278
My Feedback: (6)
Well covering has begun on my Tiger. It's going on pretty well, but I have to say that I dislike the job. I would much rather be building a model than covering it. I like using Solartex, but these thin plastic coverings are my Nemesis. There is definitely a knack in doing it well and I admire those that have the talent to do so... Pictures will follow once the fuselage has been completed.
#279
I suppose there is a knack to covering with film, their not all the same. Having said that, I found Ultra-cote to be the most friendly, heat management is the most important part of it for all coverings and prepping the frame work is just as important. My experience is that small flat jobs are best done with an iron, I don't use a sock on it. When it comes to a radial fuselage a heat gun will work best for me as well as large panels, in most cases surfaces would be sheet'ed when the heat gun is used. Film on film on open structure I use the iron, first film (base film) covers the whole area and is shrunk to tightness before any graphics films are applied over it, generally at application temps of the film being used. In the case of graphics using a heat gun on sheet'ed structure no base film is required, just put the desired pieces (colors) on in a manner that they are lapped to prevent the air stream from getting under them, that applies to all coverings.
Vince your plane will come out just fine because that's how all your work is done. What is perfect anyway, pride can get in the way of perfection on a near perfect job that is perfectly acceptable when looking at the whole job in stead of looking at one little flaw that most others will never see unless you tell them, something else you do.
Leroy
Vince your plane will come out just fine because that's how all your work is done. What is perfect anyway, pride can get in the way of perfection on a near perfect job that is perfectly acceptable when looking at the whole job in stead of looking at one little flaw that most others will never see unless you tell them, something else you do.
Leroy
#282
I wouldn't want to be in the same class as her when it comes to applying covering. As I watched her apply the covering, I saw a lot of areas that she took shortcuts that will fail in the not to distant future. The edges were barely stuck down, for starters, the covering wasn't really attached to the ribs either. I didn't like the way she was using what looked like a clothes iron as I heard several times where it sounded like she was hitting the wing and that means dents. Her technique said speedy application, her application just screamed failure
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 02-22-2018 at 12:26 PM.
#283
hydro maniac I saw pretty much the same thing you did, that's factory covering for ya and often the wood work isn't much better. If you want a well built plane build it yourself, there's plenty of help here if you need it.
#285
Covering a wing
Thanks Leroy. Just the same I wish I had the skills this young woman has...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtMbYxEqgiw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtMbYxEqgiw
Yep, pretty much that is how you do it. Except when I compare myself to her, it is as if I am moving in slow motion. Looked like she rubbed all the ribs with that Iron to me?
I have never had the luxury of a pre-printed covering scheme. Then again, I prefer to do one off schemes. So a pre-printed piece of covering is not likely to be available. As we all know, the scheme itself is what takes so much time - drawing and cutting patterns, then cutting the covering, then applying it in the right place so the pattern fits together...
I think it would be safe to say that was not an air conditioned shop... But a nice set up like that sure does make the job easier. Lots of space - no ceiling fan or wall to bang your stuff into. Good clean table (a softer top layer would be nice) all the tools you need right there but out of the way at the same time....That helps a lot.
I can not imagine what it would be like to have to do covering for a minimum of eight hours a day - the same covering scheme over and over...
That girl has hands that are tough as nails! Blowing that heat gun on the edges while pulling that small amount of excess covering to pull out the wrinkles? Man, can't tell you how many times I burned myself trying to pull covering around a corner like that. I am sure that is a lower temperature material than I am used to using, but I still saw the red glow in that heat gun so it's still hot.
#286
Thanks Leroy. Just the same I wish I had the skills this young woman has...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtMbYxEqgiw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XtMbYxEqgiw
#287
Thread Starter
Quick update; In order for the covering to continue on the fuselage, the horizontal stabilizer needed to be glued in place. 30 minute Epoxy was used. I was very careful to have previously measured the stab to ensure it was centered on its mount. If you remember, I drilled and installed a couple of dowels to be able to quickly relocate its exact position on the mount once it was removed. This proved to be useful today.
Photo 1- With the stab in position, you also have to verify that it has been installed level in relation with the wings. There are a few ways to accomplish this, but none better than just sighting the stab to the wings. Notice the distance between the bottom of the stabilizer to the top of the wing, this distance should be the same on both sides if the stabilizer is in its correct orientation. I believe the correct term for this is "dead nuts" lol
Photo 1- With the stab in position, you also have to verify that it has been installed level in relation with the wings. There are a few ways to accomplish this, but none better than just sighting the stab to the wings. Notice the distance between the bottom of the stabilizer to the top of the wing, this distance should be the same on both sides if the stabilizer is in its correct orientation. I believe the correct term for this is "dead nuts" lol
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-23-2018 at 03:52 PM.
#288
Quick update; In order for the covering to continue on the fuselage, the horizontal stabilizer needed to be glued in place. 30 minute Epoxy was used. I was very careful to have previously measured the stab to ensure it was centered on its mount. If you remember, I drilled and installed a couple of dowels to be able to quickly relocate its exact position on the mount once it was removed. This proved to be useful today.
Photo 1- With the stab in position, you also have to verify that it has been installed level in relation with the wings. There are a few ways to accomplish this, but none better than just sighting the stab to the wings. Notice the distance between the bottom of the stabilizer to the top of the wing, this distance should be the same on both sides if the stabilizer is in its correct orientation. I believe the correct term for this is "dead nuts" lol
Photo 1- With the stab in position, you also have to verify that it has been installed level in relation with the wings. There are a few ways to accomplish this, but none better than just sighting the stab to the wings. Notice the distance between the bottom of the stabilizer to the top of the wing, this distance should be the same on both sides if the stabilizer is in its correct orientation. I believe the correct term for this is "dead nuts" lol
#289
Thread Starter
#290
Thread Starter
Photo 1- To prep the stab, I had to mark where the footprint of the fin was using a permanent marker. Don't be tempted to use a pen as it will leave a dent on your balsa. The permanent marker has a softer tip and will wipe off clean using a paper towel wet with Isopropyl Alcohol, (I use 91%). Notice that I cut the covering off 1/16" before the line. This will assure that you will not have removed too much covering leaving an unsightly gap...
Photos 2-3 Again using 30 minute epoxy, the Fin is set into position using a couple of pine blocks that have a 90 degree angle on them to assure the Fin is set perfectly 90 degrees from the stab.
Photos 2-3 Again using 30 minute epoxy, the Fin is set into position using a couple of pine blocks that have a 90 degree angle on them to assure the Fin is set perfectly 90 degrees from the stab.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-24-2018 at 01:10 PM.
#292
Thread Starter
The weather has turned and it seems as though winter is back. It's snowing with a bit of freezing rain thrown in just to make it interesting if you were to drive...
Oh I have more than those few pieces done Leroy. I got all of the white on, getting ready to put the color accent pieces on.
Oh I have more than those few pieces done Leroy. I got all of the white on, getting ready to put the color accent pieces on.
Last edited by VincentJ; 02-25-2018 at 08:22 AM.
#294
Thread Starter
Thanks Rick, it's a work in progress, my plans for covering have only changed about a hundred times since I started, so who knows what I'll end up with... LOL
#295
I know what you mean.
None the less, I have no doubt that your Tiger will look nice when finished.
One of my problems has always been knowing when to quite.
I have made more than one look a bit gaudy because I put to much 'trim" on it.
None the less, I have no doubt that your Tiger will look nice when finished.
One of my problems has always been knowing when to quite.
I have made more than one look a bit gaudy because I put to much 'trim" on it.
#296
Thread Starter
Thanks Rick, I'll try to stop before that happens...
Things are progressing very slowly, I'm no speed demon but progress is progress! Took me the better part of the day just to make a pattern, and get it on one wing panel.
Things are progressing very slowly, I'm no speed demon but progress is progress! Took me the better part of the day just to make a pattern, and get it on one wing panel.
#297
What you have looks great !
#299
Hey Vince,
By looking at the pictures, I can not tell- I can't see an overlap line. Did you cover the whole wing in white then add the trim? Just curious...
When I do solid surfaces (fully sheeted) with similar trim schemes to yours, I will trim the base color leaving about 1/4" of overlap for the next color to lay on top of that.
By looking at the pictures, I can not tell- I can't see an overlap line. Did you cover the whole wing in white then add the trim? Just curious...
When I do solid surfaces (fully sheeted) with similar trim schemes to yours, I will trim the base color leaving about 1/4" of overlap for the next color to lay on top of that.
#300
I didn't watch the vid but I've seen vids of Extreme Flight workers applying covering. From what I've seen, they can cover better than 99% of any other modeler out there. Sure, it's easy to point fingers at these folks and whatever "shortcuts" they may be taking but at the same time, ARF's are "cheap" for a reason. Do you really think that you would be doing things differently if you were in their shoes doing this for 8hrs.+ a day???????
Doesn't bother me either way though as I am a kit and a scratch builder having only owned a couple of Electric ARF's in the past.
Doesn't bother me either way though as I am a kit and a scratch builder having only owned a couple of Electric ARF's in the past.