Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
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Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
I've got my Eindecker kit on order and I'm starting to think about building. SR gives the option of either pushrod or pull-pull for the rudder and elevator, my question is which way to go? I've never used pull-pull so I really don't know the pluses and minuses.
Thanks
Thanks
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
My Eindecker E1 is on the way as well. I purchased the pull-pull option simply because it is more in scale than pushrods. Sal's plane has pull-pull I believe. Let me know when your kit arrives. I don't plan on building mine until after the first of the year (2005), since it is going to be my Christmas present.
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Hi Jay...
Your kit is going out today.
The pull/pull system is much more realistic and works great. I realized that there would be a lot of people who have never used pull/pull so I made a point of going into great detail in the instruction manual as to exactly how to do it. I don't think you'll have any trouble with it. If you do have any questions, Sal and I are always just a phone call or email away.
Larry
Your kit is going out today.
The pull/pull system is much more realistic and works great. I realized that there would be a lot of people who have never used pull/pull so I made a point of going into great detail in the instruction manual as to exactly how to do it. I don't think you'll have any trouble with it. If you do have any questions, Sal and I are always just a phone call or email away.
Larry
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Hi Larry,
I received my kit yesterday and it looks just great. I have one plane to finish up then I'll start building the Eindecker. After doing some research it certainly looks like pull/pull is the only way to go. Now I just have to stay focused on finishing my current project. After reading the manual I really wanted to start building. Patience... Patience...
I received my kit yesterday and it looks just great. I have one plane to finish up then I'll start building the Eindecker. After doing some research it certainly looks like pull/pull is the only way to go. Now I just have to stay focused on finishing my current project. After reading the manual I really wanted to start building. Patience... Patience...
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Hi Kevin...
I've been a modeler... gee it's 52 years now, and I understand half finished kits. Thank goodness a partially completed kit is smaller than a built one. Otherwise we'd all have to find bigger homes.
In designing a new kit, I know what I intended, but it's really up to the builders to decide if I've met my objectives. Over the years, kits have taken me forever to build. It always seemed like the more you knew, the longer it took. The reason being that if the kit simply says, "install the tailwheel" you sit there thinking about the 14 different ways you could do it trying to figure out which one is best.
In designing our kits, I try to not leave any decisions up to the builder. Of course everyone is free to change whatever they want, but I at least try to give the builder a good sound solution to every problem and decision. This moves things along.
The massive instruction manuals that I'm always taking ribbing for, also move things along. By breaking the jobs down into small steps, there's always something you can do even if you only have 15 minutes to work on the kit. That way things move along. Like everyone else, if I feel like the next step is huge, it takes real effort to get started. It's that way during the designing of the kit. The Eindecker was a 12 month project and there were a lot of points where it seemed overwhelming. The solution was always to just sit down and do something, anything, no matter how small. That way you keep chipping away at the problem and eventually, you solve it.
Sorry for being so long winded,
Larry
I've been a modeler... gee it's 52 years now, and I understand half finished kits. Thank goodness a partially completed kit is smaller than a built one. Otherwise we'd all have to find bigger homes.
In designing a new kit, I know what I intended, but it's really up to the builders to decide if I've met my objectives. Over the years, kits have taken me forever to build. It always seemed like the more you knew, the longer it took. The reason being that if the kit simply says, "install the tailwheel" you sit there thinking about the 14 different ways you could do it trying to figure out which one is best.
In designing our kits, I try to not leave any decisions up to the builder. Of course everyone is free to change whatever they want, but I at least try to give the builder a good sound solution to every problem and decision. This moves things along.
The massive instruction manuals that I'm always taking ribbing for, also move things along. By breaking the jobs down into small steps, there's always something you can do even if you only have 15 minutes to work on the kit. That way things move along. Like everyone else, if I feel like the next step is huge, it takes real effort to get started. It's that way during the designing of the kit. The Eindecker was a 12 month project and there were a lot of points where it seemed overwhelming. The solution was always to just sit down and do something, anything, no matter how small. That way you keep chipping away at the problem and eventually, you solve it.
Sorry for being so long winded,
Larry
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Thanks Larry, I'm looking forward to receiving the kit and and some of the accessories. By the way, don't ever apologize for the length of your instruction manuals. Having built the Cutie and almost completing the AcroPro, I can attest to the fact that they are a tremendous help and add immeasurably to the enjoyment of building one of your kits.
All the best, Jay
All the best, Jay
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Boy, if there was ever anything that wasn't possible, it's wing warping with our Eindecker E1. You wouldn't believe how stiff that wing is.
During construction of the wing there are instructions to simply block up one of the building jigs at the tip by 1/4" which will end up giving you about 3/8" of washout in each wingtip. Once the wing is built, forget about changing it. My standard method of removing warps or adjusting washout with the covering material just isn't possible. The jigs and fixtures that are included in the kit will give you a straight wing and it's going to stay that way forever.
Larry
During construction of the wing there are instructions to simply block up one of the building jigs at the tip by 1/4" which will end up giving you about 3/8" of washout in each wingtip. Once the wing is built, forget about changing it. My standard method of removing warps or adjusting washout with the covering material just isn't possible. The jigs and fixtures that are included in the kit will give you a straight wing and it's going to stay that way forever.
Larry
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
My intention was to design an aircraft that you'd want to fly every weekend rather than once a year at a special event such as Rheinbeck. So, I went to ailerons instead of wing warping and elevators instead of all flying stabs. The outlines of all of the flying surfaces and the fuselage are dead on, but I did enlarge the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. I also changed the airfoil. We simply know more today about what makes an aircraft fly well than Anthony Fokker did in 1915. Oh, I also changed the method of shock absorbing in the landing gear to make it easier to produce.
Larry
Larry
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Here's a web where someone has posted some photos of an SR Eindecker in progress: http://chet_tuthill.tripod.com/eindecker.htm
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RE: Pull/Pull vs. Pushrod on SR Eindecker
Judging from those pictures, I'll bet it would be not problem to have scale wing warping. Just don't glue the ribs onto those nice round spars! I'm sure everything will swivel real nice.