rajul

My Feedback: (58)

you can't see your plans thru al foil. that's why we use something transparent

JetAwithPrist

sure you can, you just build on glass, put the plans upside down, and lie underneath the glass.

Kaos Rulz

Bison,

I looked for the plastic sheeting you talked about a t Lowes yesterday, and the only thing I found was a very large roll (50 ft) of clear plastic used for landscaping and painting drop-cloths. Is this the plastic you're referring to. It looks like it has a heavy frosted (almost opaque) appearance to it. Did ya purchase your plastic in the painting section?

ED

Bison

My Feedback: (1)

The stuff I've been using to cover my plans is made by Sunbelt Plastics of Monroe, LA. It is a 10" x 25 " roll of 6 mil heavy duty LDPE plastic sheeting. It's a little "milky" looking when it is all rolled up but I have no trouble seeing my plans through the sheeting when it has been pinned down over the plans. I just partially unroll it and cut off what I need to cover my building board. No, I did not get it from the painting department. On the package is suggests usage for lawn & garden (didn't get it there), general covering for construction, and for emergency closure. I've had this stuff for about 3 or 4 years and I think I got in in the building supplies area.

Kaos Rulz

Thanks Bison - I'll give it another shot. I'm anxious to try this stuff.

Any idea what LDPE stands for? (Light Duty Plastic Enclosure?) I'm guessing.

ED

nav8tor

L ow D ensity P olye thylene

Kaos Rulz

Boy was I off. Thanks

flap

I never considered using poly!
6 mil poly is used for a wide variety of purposes in the construction industry, from vapor-moisture barrier to temporary enclosures from weather, cold ect..
We likely have 20,000 sq' of this material and I have a Cub on the building board, think Ill giv it a try.
I havnt seen any hardware stores that do not carry this product, just ask someone who looks like they SHOULD be working there for 6 mil poly, youll need to tell them you need it in clear, it also is available in black.

Sands

What is an approximate cost for this stuff I think I might give it a try since I also have had the same problems with wax paper. Is this stuff easier to see through than wax paper ?

JetAwithPrist

I just got some 4mil poly from home depot. The 6mil seemed a little thick for my tastes. I think the 4 mil is still thicker than say monokote backing and the 4mil was way cheaper than 6mil. I want to say it was around 7 bucks for the 10ft *25ft roll which will probly last me a very long time (or at least until i use it around the house) and the 6mil was around 12. It was in the painting section at home depot.

Dago Red

My Feedback: (11)

vote for monokote backing, I have a whole box of it.

lownslo

I guess even wax paper is like a lot of things today.....cut the manufacturing costs... and cut the quality!! Anyway....Nav8tor said, I use the tips made by Dave Brown. There is about 10 (?) in a bag and cost about $4 or $5. Well worth it!!!! It is a "bulb" with a long stem. You squeeze the bulb, put the tip down into the CA bottle and release. Draw up as much, or as little CA as you like, into the "storage bulb". I have a small block of wood with 2 holes drilled in it. The holes are a little bigger than the bulb and about 1" deep. I marked one, "thin" and the other hole "medium". I usually put some black magic marker on the medium applicator to help me in grabbing the correct applicator. Some guys don't even put a pin in the end of the tip for storing. I do.... but it is little tricky getting a pin in that small hole!! Here is the good part about the DB applicator. You can customize the length of the stem AND the exit hole diameter The stem comes about 4" long. Say you want a 2" stem. Just take your needlenose pliers, grab the stem at 2" and start pulling slowly. You will see the stem start to stretch and get skinny!!!! Be careful.... don't pull it apart!! Now just take a blade and cut it off. The tip is now shorter, and you can REALLY control the CA coming out. EVEN the thin stuff.
My first kit had wax paper stuck all over the wing. This year I used the DB applicators as above. I built a large wing, 4* 120, and had wax paper stuck in only 2 little spots. These things really last a long time.
.... lownslo

Charlie P.

Don't blame the wax paper. I have the remains of a huge bulk-roll hanging in the cellar (freezer wrap for venison) that is over 40 years old. A treasure for a balsa addict. I find that when I use accelerator/activator the CA sticks. Epoxy never does. My theory is that the modern CA's express more heat when kicking.

flap

I still think the key is to govern the amount of adhesive used.
My experience is that the paper sticking has never been the problem, easy to sand off, but your still left with a gob of glue that is not so easy to deal with.

Even though the 6 mil poly, or MK backing paper, or foil, or whaterver doesnt adhere to the glue, arent you still left with a puddle of unusable glu with a flat spot on top?

Go easy on the glue, then remove the part and glue while manipulating the flow of the glue by turning it in your hands to cover what needs to be covered......no?