dkf1979

Hey guys.. I've been flying for 3 or 4 years. I have a Nextar, 4 star 40, Pheonix Models Extra 300 40sized, a Katana Profile 40 sized, and a Little extra. Out of the 5 planes I just mentioned... Only the Extra, and the Little Extra are in good flying condition.
My problem is, any time I try and fix a slightly broken plane.... I wind up just making it worse! I need to build a kit, to get some building experience. To learn how these things go together. That way, I can fix my planes when I doink'em!

Now is it me, or is there just not a lot of choices out there when it comes to kit building? Seems like everything is an ARF! Or maybe I'm just picky. But I know I won't be satisfied just building a burrito from a kit. If I'm going to put the effort into building from a kit, It needs to be sexy when i'm done with it. (anyone else know what i'm saying when a call an airplane sexy?)

Now I know that a lot of the really pretty planes are going to be a tough build for a begginer. But do you guys have any suggestions on some good first time, decent looking planes? I've really wanted a Cap 232 for a while. And i've almost bought the GP cap 232 a few times. But I've kept from buying in fear that it might be to difficult for a first time builder. Now I'm a carpenter, and a pretty handy person. I've got a pretty decent mechanical mind. So some challange on the build is desired.

Any help or advice would be greatly apprectiated. Spring is almost here and I don't have a new plane!!!! [X(]

bigedmustafa

My Feedback: (2)

Great Planes kits have a good reputation for being pretty straightforward to build. It sounds like their CAP 232 .40 kit is just what you're looking for.

ChuckW

I'm just finishing up the GP Cap-232. It's a very nice build. The only complaints I had were quality of some of the wood and a few die cuts were poor. Nothing that couldn't be easily fixed though.

Another option is the Sig Somthin Extra. It's a blast to both build and fly.

yel914

I second the Sig Somethin' Extra. It's a good build for a new builder and flys great. There have been quite a few build threads in this forum.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I think one of the best "First Building" planes is the Sig Wonder. Especially for guys like you who have a lack of confidence.

Here's why:

It only costs about 35 bucks, and it's small, so it will go together quickly. Once it's done, you have a really FUN airplane, and if you totally screw it up, you only lost $35

Furthermore, it uses a lot of the conventional building techniques that you'll find in larger models, so whatever you learn from building it you can apply to your future builds/repairs.

Dr1Driver

I'd agree with the GP Cap. Great Planes makes excellent kits, and this seems to be the type of plane you like. Go for it. Take it slow. Read each instruction step three times, measure the wood twice, and cut once.

Dr.1

Blue_Moon_

1. Keep it light

2. Keep it straight

3. Never get in a hurry

4. Have fun on the maiden!

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

There's also the Kaos's or Vagabond from Bridiairplanes www.bridiairplanes.com

tanglover

I think your looking for something fun,a little different,and easy.Try building a slo poke.I built one in 4 days.I started it on thur,and took off on sunday.You can cover it any color you want,and it looks good.Alos it flies like no other. You can land in 10 foot,an take off in 6. Huge wing great for hoving.[img][/img]

dkf1979

Wow. Thanks for all the replies. I don't think I want a something extra because I have the little extra. I know, they probably both fly completely different from one another. But they just resemble each other to much. I need to mix it up a bit I guess.
I've seen some Katanas, or Funtanas... They seem to fly so light. And they look like a blast to fly. Does anyone know of a kit of these airplanes? How would the build be on something like that? Otherwise, I think i'm still leaning towards the GP Cap.

Another question. What kind of tools am I going to need? (or want? ) I've got a 4x8 work table set up in the basement. I've got a heat gun, iron, and the all the normal household and contractor hand tools. I'm lacking all the modeling tools. In the past, I've tried using my Stanley utility knife for working on my models. ( you know, the big bulky drywall knives?) You think that could play a part in results of my past repair jobs. Naaa. One guy told me to buy a razor saw. Which I need to check the tower site to even know what it looks like. What other modeling tools will be handy?

Thanks again for all the help. So many questions!!! [X(]
Dan

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Definitely get a razor saw:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLJ20&P=ML

A Dremel tool would be next on my list

Charlie P.

* Gasp *

Usually I am in complete agreement with you, Minnflyer, but a Dremel tool can be replaced with a hacksaw, a chainsaw file and 60 grit sandpaper for most balsa building (IMHO). Dremels allow you to remove too much too soon. And it don't grow back. Though, I do like the cut-off wheels; especially the reenforced ones.

I'd say a really good try square, 6" size, and a couple plastic triangles (school supply type is fine). Snip (or Dremel ;-)) the corner out of one so you can push it into the vertical/horizontal stabilizers to check squareness. The carpenter's square is handy for leveling wings (block in place and measure up from table, etc) and for marking lines to be cut and checking squareness of parts.

An assortment of sanding blocks (77 sprat adhesive and wood blocks or metal extrusions) makes you a better builder. Holding just folded sandpaper rounds all the edges and can leave dips and ridges.

commpilot5

go to harbor frieght and get your self a mini table saw (40.00) and a cut off saw (25.00)

and a good hobby knife, I have saved many dollars with my mini table saw and cut off saw. It was worth the purchse in saving on blades. I have to agree o\with the others on the s

ig plane, really a great flyer and fun to build. a great learning tool/



" I cut it off twice and it's still too short[:'(]

ChuckW

You'll also want to get a good straight edge in a couple different lengths as well as some sanding blocks. I like the Great planes sanding bars. Their easy to grip and they're straight.

As for the razor saw, it's definitely a must-have. Make sure you get one with fine teeth. Small balsa wil be hard to cut if it's too coarse. X-acto sells a razor saw and mini mitre box combo that's very handy.

Fine tip markers come in handy for marking balsa. Soft balsa doesn't always take pencil very well and ball-point pins can crush it.

Another thing you'll need is a good flat building board that takes pins well. Some people like ceiling tiles, others like drywall. I personally like the boards that Great Planes sells. They are flat and not so hard that you can't get pins in them. Speaking of pins, make sure you have plenty of T-pins. small ones work best for going through balsa but the larger ones come in handy too.

Finally, I'd get a good assortment of small clamps. Harbor Freight tools has all sorts of inexpensive adjustable plastic clamps and spring clamps.

SPLIT S

I love my Zona razor saw. Don't know how I got along without it all these years but it's probably the most handy cutting tool I own. Make sure you get the really fine tooth one. Toss the Stanley knife and get yourself an Exacto with #11 blades ( lots of them !!! ) I have a bandsaw that really comes in handy doing the rough cuts on wingtip blocks as well as long cuts such as cutting out fuselage sides. Make sure you have some 30 min epoxy, wood glue and some CA on hand. The rest of the little " it would be nice to have" tools pop up along the way but it seems that all your basics were covered. Being a carpenter I'm assuming your build table is straight and level. If it doesn't bother you to do this ( this is what I did ) just screw a piece of drywall fast to the table top all the while making sure it gets pulled down even. I use a straightedge and level to make sure it's down flat. Makes a great table that takes pins well.

If the GP Cap goes together as well as my GP Extra, you'll have a great time building and a better time flying. Not much about my Extra kit to gripe about.

Dan

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

I built the GP Cap 232 40 as my first kit build. It was a blast! Directions were crystal clear, everything fit where it was supposed to. The landing gear plate, however, is woefully inadequate. Although it means adding a little weight, replace the 1 inch landing gear double with at least a 3 inch plate, and put some triangle stock on the sides (you'll see how when you build it). The first time I flew mine, it took off great, but on landing ripped the gear out, even though it was a nice gentle landing. After beefing it up, I can bring it in on the mains, and let the tail settle as it slows down. Real Purty!

Brad

SPLIT S

Here is a pic of my GP Extra close to the finish line. Great kit, went together wonderfully.

Dan

Thumprding

If you want a good looking plane to learn how to build a kit find a Sig Ryan STA. Of all the planes I have built, beside a Great Planes Cap 21 40 sized, older Sig kits require you too know how to shape and sand and fit. If you can finish that plane you will know how to build. The only thing I will say about the kit is you better have plenty of time to build it and not to get in a hurry.

I still have that plane and I copied the standard pattern but instead of red black and white I did mine in blue black and white.

mikemedic2

In the kit building thread the are I believe two topic's going on what you "need" to build. I believe one of the posts has the pictures and or his wish list from tower there so you can see what all that stuff looks like.
Good luck on your first build. I just (almost) finished a Great Plane 20 size cub as my first build, easier than I had scared myself to believe and had a ton of fun. I am starting on a TF mustang 1/7 scale shortly, can't wait. One word of caution though, as it is happening to me and other's that i have read. Now I can't stop want to build more more more!!!!![X(]

mikemedic2

gonna try and post some links to the kit building supplies.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5201798/tm.htm good place to read from beginning.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5189293/tm.htm
hope this worked and helps

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Charlie, when's the last time you cut out a cowl with a hacksaw?

That's why God gave us Wood Filler

Charlie P.

Cowls? We don't glass no steenkin cowls! For cowls I use a Stanley Sure-Form rasp, X-acto #26 blade and razor plane. My habit of tossing plastic and fiberglass parts and building up in balsa on ply frames may 'splain that. I'd rather cover than paint and most slip-on cowls look cheezy (IMHO). But OK, so he may want to stick a salad bowl on an Ugly Stik to make an Eindecker. Grumble, grumble. So I have used a Dremel sanding drum and carbide burr to open up cowls on ARF's. But I don't like it. Less dust with the X-acto little key-hole and plunge cut saw blades.

And I clean and polish my silver solder joins with the little wire brush wheel.

And I use a tiny 1/16" carbide burr to poke holes in canopys for attachment screws because it won't walk or slide like a drill bit.

OK, so he should buy a crummy Dremel tool. Did I mention they cut?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)