Time to stop using CA/CA+ - breathing problems
I'm familiar with Elmer’s wood glue and Gorilla glue both take a while to set. How fast does Titebond set? Is there anything out there that sets as fast as CA? Also, do you buy Titebond at the hobby shop or Home Depot?
Time to stop using CA/CA+ - breathing problems. I've read the posts and the most often suggested replacements seem to be Titebond, Elmer’s wood glue and Gorilla glue.
I'm familiar with Elmer’s wood glue and Gorilla glue both take a while to set. How fast does Titebond set? Is there anything out there that sets as fast as CA? Also, do you buy Titebond at the hobby shop or Home Depot?
Nothing else sets like thin ca.
P.S. you can buy the titebond at home depot. It is alot cheaper than CA.
Larry k
I don't have an allergy problem so I wouldn't know if the claim is correct however, I do know it doesn't kick off with as much smoke. I use it on foam parts and it isn't as hot as normal CA so it's safe for foam.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM367&P=V
Just a thought. You could always go to Titebond anyway.
Don
There is NOTHING like thin ca that can turn soft balsa into rediculously strong fibered plastic... Example take a 2" square block of balsa drill it and tap it with 1/4" tap. Treat it with thin ca to firm up the threads, don't be cheap on the the thin ca, tighten a standard bolt into it and just try to rip it out...
For some things you just can't replace thin ca...
I'll get some titebond tonight at Home Depot, maybe swap out my building table for a larger one after I decide which glue I like the best. I imagine that Gorilla wood glue swells as it cures like the original, it’s not precise enough. Is Elmer’s wood glue really any good?
I also have a severe reaction to CA, but not to odorless (aka Foam Safe) CA. The odorless does have a shorter shelf-life and slightly longer set-up time, but does not affect the respiratory system like regular CA. A fan will help but if you should happen to peek inside a fuselage, for example, after using CA in there. or sand balsa where yiu have used CA, you're back in the soup, so to speak. Be very careful with the CA because if you do get sensitized it can lead to asthma or heart arythmia. Better to be safe than sorry.
In the past, I've found Titebond to be brittle. Don't know about the new versions, though, like Titebond III.
For this reason, in the United States, CDC's National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) recommends use of appropriate personal protective equipment (i.e., a positive pressure-supplied air respirator and clothing) and adequate ventilation when persons work with (or assess the presence of) glycidyl ether in confined spaces. In the United States, acute traumatic occupational deaths are monitored by NIOSH through the National Traumatic Occupational Fatalities (NTOF) data file (2). The NTOF data file uses death certificates as the source of information for work-related fatalities resulting from external causes of injury and poisoning (International Classification of Diseases, Ninth Revision (ICD-9), rubrics E800-E899). From 1980 through 1985, the NTOF data file included 286 deaths (an average of 48 work-related deaths per year) that involved workers in confined spaces with cause of death directly attributable to asphyxiation, explosion, or drowning.
I know you are talking about CA... I just did not want to let this misstatement slide... epoxy paints can really mess people up... and I have seen it personally.
NAPA sells a really good 3m respirator, u can use it with epoxy paint and paint with mtk so I'm sure it will protect from ca fumes. Costed me $35CAN for mine they are throw away jobs. I keep mine for about 3 months and then toss. With perfuse usage replace it more often.
There is NOTHING like thin ca that can turn soft balsa into rediculously strong fibered plastic... Example take a 2'' square block of balsa drill it and tap it with 1/4'' tap. Treat it with thin ca to firm up the threads, don't be cheap on the the thin ca, tighten a standard bolt into it and just try to rip it out...
For some things you just can't replace thin ca...
a surgical mask will do ya.
I'm not sure I can build without my thin CA - it's a miracle glue. Anyway, I think I'll still use it to ''tac'' parts on with, then try titebond. It's hard for me to belive that an Elmer's glue product could set up as tightly as a CA. Do yuo guys think a fan and a dust mask will do much about teh CA issue?
You CAN do without CA. Titebond III works great, just takes longer (use more pins and clamps). As to the hold, I have built a lot of planes in the last three years and I have yet had one suffer a failed joint.
Judging by the ever more crowded work area in my shed it might be better if some of them would fail.
No sense in letting our health suffer for what should be an enjoyable great hobby .........
I am deathly allergic to ANY CA glue. I used to be able to use the odorless and now cannot use any. I bought an expensive bathroom exhaust fan and hung it over my workbench and the last time I tried to use it again I had to go to the emergency room because my bronchial tubes closed up and I could not breath. And yes I used a very high quality carbon face mask. I did a lot of research and found the following:
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The fumes from this glue are similar to the fumes from Lacquer, epoxy, the new auto paints, etc. They are absorbed by your body and do not leave. Each time you inhale (also can be absorbed by your eyes) these chemicals it is distributed by your blood stream and is absorbed by your body (mostly fat cells I believe). It is accumulative. Each attach will get worse. Unless you use a full body suit like they use for painting high-end cars, you will get it in your system. It is only a matter of time before there is a lawsuit or some big wheel politician’s son dies and then it will be gone.
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I am also allergic to epoxy but if I use the mask, exhaust fan and latex gloves I am all right. When you finally get so that you are allergic to that stuff and it reacts to you, you will think you are on fire! It seems to make your oil glands in your skin shut down.
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I have since switched to Titebond II for most of my wood gluing. So what, do you really need to be in such a hurry. Titebond is very strong for balsa, especially if you thin it a little so that it soaks in a little.