*** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
03-11-2014, 09:21 AM
#2226
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Sign me up, as well im building an ultrasport 60 in tail drag configure with GP retracts. I also would request can someone send me a diagram for mount position on the firewall I am using a Saito FA-91 and will be running the saito mount. its a diffrent shape and style than the black nylon plastic mount that came in the kit. so none of the templates on the plans work for this particular mount. is there anyone out there who has ran a US 60 on a Saito 91 using the saito mount. Also can anyone tell me what prop I need to use for the 91 the manual says a 11x11 on a 91 but with prop dump I will over rev for sure, Will a 12x10x6 work better and save me the damage that over rev will ultimately do to my 91.
03-11-2014, 09:25 AM
#2227
My Feedback: (7)
Quote from RCKen in post #1 "We ask that all proudly display their Ultra Sport Brotherhood # in their signature lines. Let's all tell the world about this great plane and bring more into the brotherhood!!!"
Updated Roster
1. Ken Isaac - RCKen
2. Mike Buzzeo - Minnflyer
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154. Scully7272
155. balsatermite
156. Falkwulf
That number is yours remember to put it in your signature
Updated Roster
1. Ken Isaac - RCKen
2. Mike Buzzeo - Minnflyer
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154. Scully7272
155. balsatermite
156. Falkwulf
That number is yours remember to put it in your signature
03-11-2014, 09:38 AM
#2228
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Minn flyier was a great lobbiest for our hobby, many of our best advocates are passing, Minnflyer was one of the last of a dying breed, It seems to me that we need to embrace the older flying generation and learn all we can from them, My family and local flying club lost one of the last true old school flyer back in october, We lost Lewis "Mike" Hunter the last of the Fox Manufacturing Dynasty, leaving Jeff as the last of Duke's personal friends left alive. I miss mike terribly and could use his expertise on the builds that I am finishing for him. Mikes Prized Four Star 120 and his favorite IMAA legal 1/4 EA BIPE. Both were started shortly before his untimely death and both now are almost ready for Ultracote.
So my fellow modelers please embrace the older ones cause they are a plethera of knowledge and can fix literally any mistake with ease.
So my fellow modelers please embrace the older ones cause they are a plethera of knowledge and can fix literally any mistake with ease.
03-11-2014, 10:05 AM
#2229
My Feedback: (551)
You might find it hard to land the Ultra Sport with an 11 pitch prop on it, (it will float right on by at idle) so you might be better off running a 12x8. Slower landings than the 11x11 and less top rpm than the 12x10x6.
Jim
03-11-2014, 11:36 AM
#2231
My Feedback: (551)
It takes a little measuring but it is not difficult. Tack glue the provided mount to the firewall in the recommended position. (That way you can pop it off without leaving unnecessary holes.) Mark the spots on the firewall where the tops of the mounting beams are, and also mark the center between the beams. Take the provided mount off and put the Saito mount on the firewall so that the top of the beams and the center between them match the marks on the firewall. Mark the mounting hole locations and drill.
Jim
Jim
04-29-2014, 10:20 AM
#2237
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
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I decided to put a magnetic hatch to ease engine installation and tank plumbing and removal. I am not sure if I should put the canopy as per plans, or to change it up and place it back further. Will this affect knife edge flight?
Calvi.
Calvi.
My old UltraSport, with modified vertical fin for a more blended look
04-29-2014, 03:38 PM
#2240
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
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Looks good Kap2011 though I did not notice the first time I looked at the pics of your Ultras. Jim, that is the year I built my first Ultra Sport, looks good the blended fin gives that fiberglass fuse look
nice! I wish I could find some pics of my old bird, it was covered in pearl wine and yellow starburst.
Calvi
nice! I wish I could find some pics of my old bird, it was covered in pearl wine and yellow starburst. Calvi
04-30-2014, 05:32 AM
#2241
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pueblo West,
CO
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I still have my old/first/original Ultra Sport 40. It is from the mid to late 80s. I had been flying for over 10 years by then. Every plane I had owned up to then, had been in a minor or major crash and rebuilt before they flew good.
I put mechanical retracts in the Ultra Sport and went all out with my Monokote scheme and it was the first one I had built that I got constant compliments on. I loved the way it flew. I never had trouble with the retracts or anything about it for that matter. After a few years I realized it was the Only airplane I had Ever built that hadn’t crashed. I don’t know if I got superstitious or what, but I flew it less and was careful when I did fly it.
I had an OS 46 pump on it, and the Needle valve wore out, I was not able to lean it out to a good 2 stroke run so I put my Ultra in the back of my shop. A few years later I took it out, the motor would still run, but not full speed. I took it out to the field and cautiously flew a tank of fuel. At the time I was unable to find a Carb for that engine, so I didn’t do anything else to the airplane. I think it was 2006 the last time I flew it. There has been more damage done to it moving and dropping things on it than it ever got from flying it.
By now it is fully retired. I want to keep it as the only airplane I ever built that didn’t crash. I may re cover it some day and display it in my shop, but right now it is relegated to napping and telling its great great grandkids about the “good ol’ days” when he Ruled the Skys.
My last Ultra (60) I built 2 years ago. I added flaps and retracts. It too flew great right from the start. Then the elevator servo malfunctioned (I have proof it wasn’t pilot error.
) and it disintegrated itself on impact with the ground.
I still have an unbuilt kit under my work bench, so I’m not through with them yet.
I put mechanical retracts in the Ultra Sport and went all out with my Monokote scheme and it was the first one I had built that I got constant compliments on. I loved the way it flew. I never had trouble with the retracts or anything about it for that matter. After a few years I realized it was the Only airplane I had Ever built that hadn’t crashed. I don’t know if I got superstitious or what, but I flew it less and was careful when I did fly it.
I had an OS 46 pump on it, and the Needle valve wore out, I was not able to lean it out to a good 2 stroke run so I put my Ultra in the back of my shop. A few years later I took it out, the motor would still run, but not full speed. I took it out to the field and cautiously flew a tank of fuel. At the time I was unable to find a Carb for that engine, so I didn’t do anything else to the airplane. I think it was 2006 the last time I flew it. There has been more damage done to it moving and dropping things on it than it ever got from flying it.
By now it is fully retired. I want to keep it as the only airplane I ever built that didn’t crash. I may re cover it some day and display it in my shop, but right now it is relegated to napping and telling its great great grandkids about the “good ol’ days” when he Ruled the Skys.
My last Ultra (60) I built 2 years ago. I added flaps and retracts. It too flew great right from the start. Then the elevator servo malfunctioned (I have proof it wasn’t pilot error.
) and it disintegrated itself on impact with the ground.I still have an unbuilt kit under my work bench, so I’m not through with them yet.
04-30-2014, 06:23 AM
#2242
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cartersville, GA
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It seems that most people have used mechanical retracts with the Ultra Sport. Has anyone tried to use the newer pneumatic or electric retracts? How do the newer systems compare, in regards to weight, cost, reliability, and ease of installation?
04-30-2014, 06:29 AM
#2243
My Feedback: (9)
people use mechanicals to keep wt down. i have found that with mechanicals if you retract in the first turn i sometimes bend the pushrods. air and electric are heavier by a couple of oz.. usually peoplr who ust air are scale guys and scale tires are HHHHHHeavy so the delta in wt between mech. and air is much greater. that wount be the problem with the US.
Joe
Joe
04-30-2014, 07:24 AM
#2244
I used Robart struts on mine and if I had it to do over I would have just used the Eflites with the stock wire. The Robarts have both bent once requiring replacement.
The total cost was $247 for the Eflites + Robart struts. Not including the replacement struts I had to buy last summer which by then were $69 each.
I didn't want to use the stock wire that came with the Eflites when the first set of struts bent because I would have had to cut up the sheeting on the wing to fit the coil on the wire. If they ever bend again, the sheeting will get cut up.
All in all, I like the Eflites but I have grown to hate Robart and will probably never use Robart again.
05-01-2014, 05:24 AM
#2245
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Pueblo West,
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I don't mean that in any way as a putdown KaP. I've been flying for 40 years and still prefer sport flying. (which means when it crashes i won't have to wait till I win the lottery to buy another one)
I cringe when I hear the Warbird guys talk about the $500. they spent on a tail wheel retract, or the cost of just One giant servo. But I spend more than I should on other things. I just bought a new Motor home when We had a perfectly good 5th wheel and truck. Priorities. Wish they would make cheaper electric retracts though.
05-01-2014, 05:54 AM
#2246
Which answers your other question about cost. I would love to try electrics on my next Ultra just to not have to get the servo linkage adjusted right, but for myself I can't justify buying retracts at the cost of almost two Ultra Sport 60 kits. My mechanical retracts cost $35 and worked up until the plane crashed. The ones in the 40 still worked the last time I flew it.
I don't mean that in any way as a putdown KaP. I've been flying for 40 years and still prefer sport flying. (which means when it crashes i won't have to wait till I win the lottery to buy another one)
I cringe when I hear the Warbird guys talk about the $500. they spent on a tail wheel retract, or the cost of just One giant servo. But I spend more than I should on other things. I just bought a new Motor home when We had a perfectly good 5th wheel and truck. Priorities. Wish they would make cheaper electric retracts though.
I don't mean that in any way as a putdown KaP. I've been flying for 40 years and still prefer sport flying. (which means when it crashes i won't have to wait till I win the lottery to buy another one)
I cringe when I hear the Warbird guys talk about the $500. they spent on a tail wheel retract, or the cost of just One giant servo. But I spend more than I should on other things. I just bought a new Motor home when We had a perfectly good 5th wheel and truck. Priorities. Wish they would make cheaper electric retracts though.
I paid $149 for the Eflite retracts, $49 each for 2 robart strut then I paid $69 each for 2 replacement struts when I bent the first two on a dead-stick landing. Wow, that's $385 spent on retracts. Ouch, don't let my wife see this.
Like you, I've always used mechanical retracts in the past and when I built my current US 60, I had intended to use Dave Brown Southern mechanical retracts. I saw the eflites and decided to give them a try. The retracts themselves have worked great and I would use them again if I were building a scale plane but not the robart struts. I've had issues on a Cessna 182 with the robart struts bending when I made a turn at the end of a landing roll-out.
The Dave Browns are, IMO, the best quality mechanical retracts on the market for 60 size sport type planes. I think current price for them when you can find them is around $50 - $60.
05-01-2014, 11:31 AM
#2247
Join Date: Nov 2006
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I’m pretty sure I had/ have Dave Brown retracts on my old 40.
I built the 60 and bought the retracts that were designed by Minnflyer from this board, and were sold through 3DX hobbies. They are no longer available, and unfortunately Minnflyer passed away two years ago. They are great retracts for someone who was lucky enough to get them. They are solid aluminum and used Nyrod rather than having to bend a pushrod. Very reliable. Mine were in the crash, but I think they would still work. I am going to put them in the next Ultra Sport I build. (which by the way, I plan on making electric. Has anyone done that yet?)
I built the 60 and bought the retracts that were designed by Minnflyer from this board, and were sold through 3DX hobbies. They are no longer available, and unfortunately Minnflyer passed away two years ago. They are great retracts for someone who was lucky enough to get them. They are solid aluminum and used Nyrod rather than having to bend a pushrod. Very reliable. Mine were in the crash, but I think they would still work. I am going to put them in the next Ultra Sport I build. (which by the way, I plan on making electric. Has anyone done that yet?)
05-01-2014, 12:56 PM
#2248
I’m pretty sure I had/ have Dave Brown retracts on my old 40.
I built the 60 and bought the retracts that were designed by Minnflyer from this board, and were sold through 3DX hobbies. They are no longer available, and unfortunately Minnflyer passed away two years ago. They are great retracts for someone who was lucky enough to get them. They are solid aluminum and used Nyrod rather than having to bend a pushrod. Very reliable. Mine were in the crash, but I think they would still work. I am going to put them in the next Ultra Sport I build. (which by the way, I plan on making electric. Has anyone done that yet?)
I built the 60 and bought the retracts that were designed by Minnflyer from this board, and were sold through 3DX hobbies. They are no longer available, and unfortunately Minnflyer passed away two years ago. They are great retracts for someone who was lucky enough to get them. They are solid aluminum and used Nyrod rather than having to bend a pushrod. Very reliable. Mine were in the crash, but I think they would still work. I am going to put them in the next Ultra Sport I build. (which by the way, I plan on making electric. Has anyone done that yet?)
I would like to see an electric version, I think it would be an awesome airplane.
I'm down to one Ultra Sport now and I'm sorely missing the one I traded off. I need to build another 40 size US to replace the Das Ultra Sport pictured above. The sad part about the trade is that the guy I traded with has still not flown the US 40. He says it's too nice to fly, he's afraid he'll damage it.
05-05-2014, 09:37 PM
#2250
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Location: seven mile beach, AUSTRALIA
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Hi Paladin, I have a Taipan also,it is the uncovered version that they made available to Australia,I haven't seen the covered version except in pics, I am assembling it at the moment,it's an alright airframe. a lot of ply in there,if you want reassuring I can see inside areas that you cant,it is pretty well glued,but there are issues if yours is the same batch as mine except covered....my fuselage has a slight twist front to back not a lot but if you place it on a dead flat surface you can pick it up,the horizontal stab doesn't sit level and needed the notch tweaked a bit,the wing didn't fit in the wing saddle and required some sanding at the back wing edge to sit properly and also some wood sanded off one side of the fuse wing saddle to enable the wing to fit neatly in the saddle with no gap either side to the fuse. I am not a fan of the ply wing locating tab at the wing front, I will modify with some wood inside the wing and install locating dowels as well because the ply is not good quality for what that needs to be (ie holding the front of the wing to the plane), I also don't trust the wing halves just glued together with diag brace so mine is being glassed in the center top and bottom of the wing.I am doing all these extra mods to ensure the plane lasts a long time not just one season of flying.One important thing to note,obviously you have noticed the manual is not worth the paper it is printed on, I think they cut and pasted pics from other plane manuals and just stuck them in there and thought it was close enough, The motor will NOT be centered vertically if you center it to the cross on the firewall (which is what the cross is for) I think from memory it needs to be 12mm lower than that,cant believe they stuffed that one up and it is not in the manual anywhere!!! I already have a Hacker A50 12S mounted on mine which will be powered by 6s 5000mah and am still going on sorting out some of the servo mounting issues I have found ( I am using mini servos but very high torque),then after that I need to modify the cowl to include an external air inlet underneath at the front as there is no provision for motor cooling for electrics. Then when everything is sorted it will be monokote covered and it should last years except for some dumb thumbs!
Don't get me wrong it is a good airframe and will convert well to electric when you take into account how cheap it is but it is a long long way from being as good as a kit built plane as I have built many kits and know where strength needs to be added.In addition compared to an Ultrasport wing this one has almost no dihedral as you can tell by the symmetrical diagonal brace, VQ took it out,so it will fly differently to an Ultrasport for better or for worse I am not sure....
If you want to know anything as your assembly progresses, I am happy to oblige.
ps is your canopy horribly unclear also?
Mark
Don't get me wrong it is a good airframe and will convert well to electric when you take into account how cheap it is but it is a long long way from being as good as a kit built plane as I have built many kits and know where strength needs to be added.In addition compared to an Ultrasport wing this one has almost no dihedral as you can tell by the symmetrical diagonal brace, VQ took it out,so it will fly differently to an Ultrasport for better or for worse I am not sure....
If you want to know anything as your assembly progresses, I am happy to oblige.
ps is your canopy horribly unclear also?
Mark