I miss the time when Japanese products where made in Japan and north american produts where Made In USA.

I notice when I'm tuning the engine that the engine runs better, more stable and smooth, when I hold the needle. Could this be an indication of a problem?

make sure your spring that is on the outside of the needle is making good pressure on the needle when it clicks...take your needle all the way out and bend the tab over so it will click good during adjustment......</p>

Hi this message is for Pete please ask your you flight guys over there at Horizon are they going to make or will they make a 60 to 120 you flight rotating re-track for the P 40 in the Corsair 60 size airplanes I would love to put a 15 GX on one of those planes thanks that's E flite  retracts

I'll try that, thank you!<br type="_moz" />

how much running time do you have on this engine?
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This already happened when the engine was new. The needle does not feel "loose" or anithing. It does not have any (external) signs of damage. But when I hold the needle at high RPM it is possible to feel the engine leaning (right word?) and becoming more "smoth".

I removed the needle extension to reduce the vibration on that component and it is possible to feel the difference.I fear that this small gap between the parts can damage the needle with time.

The engine have 10hrs (more or less) of use now, based on the ammount of fuel already used and TX timer

I'll check it again this weekend and try to record this behavior in video.

Thank you for the help!<br type="_moz" />

yea,

you might have to talk to Pete on that..you have plenty of running on it then..send him an email and i'm sure he can help you anyway possible...i haven't had engine problems..all of my problems has been fuel tank and servo problems,but thats all part of flying...99% of the time if an engine shuts off in the air that relies on tank pressure,its tank or fuel line leaks..thats what i have been working with..other than that the engine runs really great...

i meant to ask you..are you running the black fuel line everywhere..cause thats the problem i had with tygon tubing..you could see the air bubbles going thru the tygon leaking..when i redone my tank, i didn't have anymore black line and it caused problems..i have it on there now...

I'm using tygon onlybetweenthe filter andcarburetor.<div></div><div>I alsoappliedTeflonand thread lock to the fuel nipple as it became loose and allowed air to get into the engine.</div><div></div><div>

Edit: ps.: Pay attention to the ignition battery. With a bad battery I had the same simptoms as I had with air bubbles. (Engine cuts at high RPM, even with a slow throttle up);
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long as you don't see air bubbles..you should be fine..but thats where mine was leaking and making bubbles appear from filter to carb..the tygon swells after a while and don't seal really well...if you haven't tried the black tube there..wouldn't hurt to try it..just prime it until you see fuel on your finger,cause you want be able to see the fuel.thats the reason i was wanting to use tygon..

We don't yet have a 60-120 sized rotating retracts. For the Corsair and P-40 that you mention the 25-46 sized retracts found here:

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...#quickFeatures

Should work for you. They are rated to 9.5lbs and if you are careful with the build you can get them under that weight pretty easily. Either of these airplanes are going to take significant structure changes in the wings to get these new style retracts installed.

Pete

There is one of two things happening here.

1) the small amount of play between the threads of the needle valve is allowing you to push the needle itself agaist the side of the seat, closing off some fuel and leaning the engine, or -

2)when you push the needle to the side there is a small air leak getting past the o-ring which will effectively lean out the engine by adding more air to the mixture.

To determine what is going on take a small piece of silicone tubing (about 6mm long) and push it over the needle valve so that it forms a seal around the needle valve and the needle valve holder. If the engine still changes when you push against the needle valve then it is simply a matter of the needle being pushed against the side of the needle seat and there is no issue that needs to be resolved and you can probably turn in the needle another click or two because the engine wants to run a bit leaner anyway. If the change does not occur then this is an indication that you are getting air leakage past the o-ring and you should change out the o-ring, or just leave the silicone seal in place and continue to have fun with your engine.

Pete

Thank you Pete!

I'm almost sure that I do not have any problem but I'll do the test. The engine is working nicely and looks like the copper RTV is holding well the muffler (the only problem I had so far, you know). I was already planning to put the silicon tube there. It is a thing that I always did with my older glow engines to assure the needle does not move!

<br type="_moz" />

Evgeny,

Thank you for the photos.

Pete

Pete, please. Just to be sure of where to put the silicon tube, is this right?

I also had isues with the fuel nipple coming loose and leaking air. When I tried to tighten it up for the 3rd time, the threaded part broke off in the carb. I eventually had to drill it out and retap it for a larger nipple. So far it is holding up.

Dave

I don't mean to minimize whether or not you are having valid issues. But I don't believe using a caliper to measure across threads at an angle, caused by the fact that the caliper can't fit fully into the center of the needle valve at exactly 90 degrees is going to give you an accurate measurement.

I believe he has taken measures before, and then placed on the table to take the pictures....

I have a 10gx on a 40 size seagull 540 edge and doesn't have the power I would like, what do you all think about putting the 15gx on it? if I did my calculations right it is only 9 oz heavier </p>

Bruno, that is the correct position.

Pete<br type="_moz" />

I can't recall off hand the configuration of the needle assembly so correct me if I'm wrong but does the picture depict the exterior threads on the needle seat that insert into the carb and if so, they shouldn't be critical about centering. What would be critical regarding centering is the interior threads of the seat barrel and the needle. If that is what is depicted... then he has a point.... oops, no pun intended.

Of course there have been needles with exterior threads and the 10GX might have them, I don't recall and don't wish to pull my needle to see.

this is the same stories for the last 2 months on this engine anything new about it

I've had this engine since january.. decided it was finally time to go out and see if i could get this thing started

flip flip ... screw this, grab starter .... weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeee

I'm currently 2 clicks leaner than the factory setting on the high speed and haven't touched the low speed needle and getting good throttle response and a decent idle. Letting it cool down now and looking forward to going flying this weekend. I'm going to mess with it a bit on the bench to gain some confidence in it, but I'm following the manual more or less and going to let it break in in the air.

BTW... this is a LOT of engine for a .40 sized plane... I'm pretty sure I could just hold this vertical and let go if I wanted to....

BTW, I have 2.5 bottles of the Stihl ultra in 1 gallon of gas... that 2.6oz per bottle... so roughly 6.3 oz of oil to 128 oz of gas... which should be 20:1 by my math..... its been mixed thoroughly several times....

I'm not getting the goop on the plane that I see in other pictures... there are a couple flecks.. but nothing major. should I be worried?