NY Rebel
Posts: 510
Joined: 2/23/2005
From: Flushing,
NY, USA
Status: offline
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The first step in installing the new head will be to disconnect the servo linkages from the stock swash plate.
Next, you will need to remove the rear servo mount which also has the anti-rotation device built in to it.
To remove it, first remove the two rear aileron servos, then remove the two screws that secure it to the main frame.
Next, you need to remove the main shaft with the stock head still attached to it.
To remove the main shaft, loosen the set screws on the locking collar and main gear hub and pull the stock shaft and head out.
If you're using the stock Walkera servos, now is the ideal time to do the front servo mount modification (described below in "NOTE:" read and return to this step)
Slide the new shaft with it's locking collar in place through the bearings,lower spacer/collar and then main gear hub.
The first thing you'll notice when you actually install the head is that the shaft that is supplied with it is too long. Don't panic, you simply insert the shaft through the bearings and main gear hub and leave it long for now (we'll cut it off later). Don't lock the collars or main gear to the shaft yet, just snug the set screws so that it holds in place for now.
Next, re-install the rear servo holder that was previously removed and re-install the aileron servos (please continue reading for info about using the stock aileron servos before proceeding with any work).
For those of you setting up using the stock 22e electronics...collective (pitch) direction has been an issue. This can be resolved with a little work and repositioning of the servos
Before proceeding with servo setup , unplug your motors at the JST connectors on the 4 in 1.
If you buy aftermarket servos, they already rotate opposite from the stock walkera servos.
All you have to do then is flip dips #1 & 2 on the Tx and this will give you the correct movement on both collective and cyclic
If you have the stock servos...flip the elevator servo over (actually remove it from the holder and swap ends and re-install) then install the servo arm 180 degrees from where it was at so that you're working off the opposite side of the spindle.... swap the aileron servos (either at the Rx or physically move them, which ever is easiest for you) ....flip Tx dip #1 to the on position and everything is now oreintated the correct way with pitch travel being movement from bottom (0 or negative pitch) to top (full positive pitch).
NOTE: When changing the elevator servo orintation you will have to make some modification on the servo holder. This is covered later in the thread , but here is an explanation of what needs to be done.
The L shaped arm at the front of the main frame will need to be removed to make room for the new servo position. I used a hacksaw blade to carefully remove it and then filed it smooth. It's easier to do this after the front servo and it's holder are out of the way.
Remove the front servo holder, turn it around so that it faces the opposite direction, locate the mounting tab as close to the body mounting rod as possible. Use a 1/16 drill bit in a small hand drill to drill pilot holes for the screws to go into the main frame.
Install the screws being carefull not to strip out the screw holes.
The mount is now ready to install the servo in its new position.
Also, sp0on found out you do not have to change the #2 dip on the Tx.
At this point you should have all of your servos mounted and moving in the proper directions.
Now, you want connect your linkages from your servos to the head and check to make sure the swash plate is level, make adjustments if neccesary.
With the Tx throttle/collective stick at center or 50% (your motors should still be unplugged , we don't need to spin the head yet), your anti-rotation (AR) pin should be approxamately mid-point in the anti-rotation (AR) holder. If it isn't you need to adjust your linkages to achieve this. Make sure that your linkages have at least three full turns into the ball links and servo links, anything less than this is dangerous. If you can't achieve the proper AR pin location by making linkage adjustments then you will need to move the main shaft up or down to properly position the head. Once proper AR pin location is verified move the Tx cyclic stick (right stick) through it's full range and observe the swash, servos, and AR pin. Now move the Tx throttle/collective stick to the top or 100%, move the cyclic full range. Repeat this with the Throttle/collective at the bottom or 0%. You should not have any binding or jittering of the servos, if you do... go back and re-adjust your linkage until you get full cyclic in all throttle positions, checking to make sure the swash remains level after each adjustment.
With all swash movement being verified, lock down the set screws on the main shaft locking collars and main gear hub. Now it's time to trim the portion of the main shaft that was left sticking through the main gear hub. This can be done with the shaft still in place with a dremel equiped with a small cut-off grinding wheel (Always wear safety glasses when ever using metal working tools)
Finally,loosen the two set screws on both ends of the flybar cage and remove the shipping screws from the flybar cage (TIP: remove one screw and insert your flybar part way into the cage before removing the other)... install your stock flybar. Make sure it is exactly centered then lockdown the set screws. Install the flybar paddles so that they are level with the flybar cage.
You have now installed the Sonix v2 CNC head on your Walkera 22e. Use normal procedures for checking blade tracking and adjust tracking as neccesary.
Below is an edited excerpt from a later post since I realize some of you will not read the entire thread...
quote:
ORIGINAL: NY Rebel
2-12-2007
I flew mine briefly today. It experienced some vibration/headshake, then it went away with out explanation.
I think this is due to some of the linkages binding intermittently. I had gone through everything when I got it and checked the links, I thought I had them all sized correctly but maybe I missed one or two.
When it did smooth out...WOW!!! it was really smooth 
I later found out that the head shake was due to less than perfect tracking.
This head is far more sensitive to blade tracking than either the stock head or the v1 CNC head. It has to be near perfect or you will get the intermittent head shake. After getting the tracking dialed in, this is the smoothest heli I've flown yet !!! 
< Message edited by NY Rebel -- 2/25/2007 3:28:40 PM >
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All Forums >> RC Helicopters >> Electric RC Helis >> Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.. >> Sonix v2 CNC head setup for 22e 
Sonix v2 CNC head setup for 22e - 
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