Sonix v2 CNC head setup for 22e
02-10-2007, 02:36 PM
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Sonix v2 CNC head setup for 22e
I have been a proponent of the CNC head for the 22e for some time now.
For me as a newbie heli owner/pilot, it cut the learning curve dramatically due to spending less time repairing and more time flying.
Unfortunately, with the introduction of the Sonix v2 head a lot of new owner/pilots are having a hard time setting up the v2 since the collective/pitch control moves opposite of the stock head or the v1 head.
The following is a step by step guide for installing the Sonix v2 head on the Walkera 22e.
Be sure to checkout sp0on's vid in post #3 showing his flight with the upgrade...
One thing that needs to be said...
WORK AND FLY SAFE. Always wear the proper protective eye wear when cutting or drilling.
Balance is very important on these machines, an out of balance head can self destuct and send shrapnel flying in all directions.
I'm no expert... I try different things, some work, some don't so don't be afraid to try something different.
The more you work on these or any other mechanical device, the more you will be able to see how things interact in the mechanical world.
There has been a great deal of talk about switching things mechanically...
This can be done BUT...You can't simply flop the blade grips over and swing the linkage to the other side.
This will cause the mechanical multiplication to be backwards....
I don't know what this would do to the flight characteristics but it would not be good (if it would fly at all)
To change the mechanical orintation you must remove the flybar cage and holder/seesaw......
Flip the holder/seesaw over, this will reverse the two pivoting arms that actually move the blade grips.
I tried it on mine and the two fastners holding it were impossible to remove without damaging something...
I would stay away from this method unless you just have to have it that way and you are going to completely rebuild the head
The recommended fix for the collective pitch control issue is discussed in great detail later in the installation procedure.
As you go through the installation make sure to check ALL ball studs and locktite them if needed.
Upon receiving my v2 head, the first thing I found is that the ball studs supplied with the v2 protrude approx 2mm farther than the v1 did.
Now, with the extra 2mm all around, the servo linkage that was already borderline acceptable geometry has become unacceptable.
This step is not absolutely neccesary, although I believe that the better the geometry, the better it will fly. Changing them also makes the ball studs the same size as the walkera ball links (3.8mm).
If you don't want to do this step...skip to post #2.
The pictures below are after I changed the ball studs(I forgot to take a before
).
My solution, although a bit unorthadox due to my using what I had on hand, works like a charm.
I took a 1051 losi ball stud and resized the stud to fit the swash plate.
I used a 2-56 die on the stud, then very lightly countersink the threaded hole so that the shoulder will fit flush.
Then I took a dremel and carefully ground off the part of the stud that was sticking through on the inside.
There are additional pictures throughout the thread that may help clarify some of the procedures explained in these next two post.
The work done later in this thread was made possible by sp0on2410 who actually had the stock servos that we were trying to get to work on this head.
For me as a newbie heli owner/pilot, it cut the learning curve dramatically due to spending less time repairing and more time flying.
Unfortunately, with the introduction of the Sonix v2 head a lot of new owner/pilots are having a hard time setting up the v2 since the collective/pitch control moves opposite of the stock head or the v1 head.
The following is a step by step guide for installing the Sonix v2 head on the Walkera 22e.
Be sure to checkout sp0on's vid in post #3 showing his flight with the upgrade...
One thing that needs to be said...
WORK AND FLY SAFE. Always wear the proper protective eye wear when cutting or drilling.
Balance is very important on these machines, an out of balance head can self destuct and send shrapnel flying in all directions.
I'm no expert... I try different things, some work, some don't so don't be afraid to try something different.
The more you work on these or any other mechanical device, the more you will be able to see how things interact in the mechanical world.
There has been a great deal of talk about switching things mechanically...
This can be done BUT...You can't simply flop the blade grips over and swing the linkage to the other side.
This will cause the mechanical multiplication to be backwards....
I don't know what this would do to the flight characteristics but it would not be good (if it would fly at all)
To change the mechanical orintation you must remove the flybar cage and holder/seesaw......
Flip the holder/seesaw over, this will reverse the two pivoting arms that actually move the blade grips.
I tried it on mine and the two fastners holding it were impossible to remove without damaging something...
I would stay away from this method unless you just have to have it that way and you are going to completely rebuild the head
The recommended fix for the collective pitch control issue is discussed in great detail later in the installation procedure.
As you go through the installation make sure to check ALL ball studs and locktite them if needed.
Upon receiving my v2 head, the first thing I found is that the ball studs supplied with the v2 protrude approx 2mm farther than the v1 did.
Now, with the extra 2mm all around, the servo linkage that was already borderline acceptable geometry has become unacceptable.
This step is not absolutely neccesary, although I believe that the better the geometry, the better it will fly. Changing them also makes the ball studs the same size as the walkera ball links (3.8mm).
If you don't want to do this step...skip to post #2.
The pictures below are after I changed the ball studs(I forgot to take a before
). My solution, although a bit unorthadox due to my using what I had on hand, works like a charm.
I took a 1051 losi ball stud and resized the stud to fit the swash plate.
I used a 2-56 die on the stud, then very lightly countersink the threaded hole so that the shoulder will fit flush.
Then I took a dremel and carefully ground off the part of the stud that was sticking through on the inside.
There are additional pictures throughout the thread that may help clarify some of the procedures explained in these next two post.
The work done later in this thread was made possible by sp0on2410 who actually had the stock servos that we were trying to get to work on this head.
02-10-2007, 06:10 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
The first step in installing the new head will be to disconnect the servo linkages from the stock swash plate.
Next, you will need to remove the rear servo mount which also has the anti-rotation device built in to it.
To remove it, first remove the two rear aileron servos, then remove the two screws that secure it to the main frame.
Next, you need to remove the main shaft with the stock head still attached to it.
To remove the main shaft, loosen the set screws on the locking collar and main gear hub and pull the stock shaft and head out.
If you're using the stock Walkera servos, now is the ideal time to do the front servo mount modification (described below in "NOTE:" read and return to this step)
Slide the new shaft with it's locking collar in place through the bearings,lower spacer/collar and then main gear hub.
The first thing you'll notice when you actually install the head is that the shaft that is supplied with it is too long. Don't panic, you simply insert the shaft through the bearings and main gear hub and leave it long for now (we'll cut it off later). Don't lock the collars or main gear to the shaft yet, just snug the set screws so that it holds in place for now.
Next, re-install the rear servo holder that was previously removed and re-install the aileron servos (please continue reading for info about using the stock aileron servos before proceeding with any work).
For those of you setting up using the stock 22e electronics...collective (pitch) direction has been an issue. This can be resolved with a little work and repositioning of the servos
Before proceeding with servo setup , unplug your motors at the JST connectors on the 4 in 1.
If you buy aftermarket servos, they already rotate opposite from the stock walkera servos.
All you have to do then is flip dips #1 & 2 on the Tx and this will give you the correct movement on both collective and cyclic
If you have the stock servos...flip the elevator servo over (actually remove it from the holder and swap ends and re-install) then install the servo arm 180 degrees from where it was at so that you're working off the opposite side of the spindle.... swap the aileron servos (either at the Rx or physically move them, which ever is easiest for you) ....flip Tx dip #1 to the on position and everything is now oreintated the correct way with pitch travel being movement from bottom (0 or negative pitch) to top (full positive pitch).
NOTE: When changing the elevator servo orintation you will have to make some modification on the servo holder. This is covered later in the thread , but here is an explanation of what needs to be done.
The L shaped arm at the front of the main frame will need to be removed to make room for the new servo position. I used a hacksaw blade to carefully remove it and then filed it smooth. It's easier to do this after the front servo and it's holder are out of the way.
Remove the front servo holder, turn it around so that it faces the opposite direction, locate the mounting tab as close to the body mounting rod as possible. Use a 1/16 drill bit in a small hand drill to drill pilot holes for the screws to go into the main frame.
Install the screws being carefull not to strip out the screw holes.
The mount is now ready to install the servo in its new position.
Also, sp0on found out you do not have to change the #2 dip on the Tx.
At this point you should have all of your servos mounted and moving in the proper directions.
Now, you want connect your linkages from your servos to the head and check to make sure the swash plate is level, make adjustments if neccesary.
With the Tx throttle/collective stick at center or 50% (your motors should still be unplugged , we don't need to spin the head yet), your anti-rotation (AR) pin should be approxamately mid-point in the anti-rotation (AR) holder. If it isn't you need to adjust your linkages to achieve this. Make sure that your linkages have at least three full turns into the ball links and servo links, anything less than this is dangerous. If you can't achieve the proper AR pin location by making linkage adjustments then you will need to move the main shaft up or down to properly position the head. Once proper AR pin location is verified move the Tx cyclic stick (right stick) through it's full range and observe the swash, servos, and AR pin. Now move the Tx throttle/collective stick to the top or 100%, move the cyclic full range. Repeat this with the Throttle/collective at the bottom or 0%. You should not have any binding or jittering of the servos, if you do... go back and re-adjust your linkage until you get full cyclic in all throttle positions, checking to make sure the swash remains level after each adjustment.
With all swash movement being verified, lock down the set screws on the main shaft locking collars and main gear hub. Now it's time to trim the portion of the main shaft that was left sticking through the main gear hub. This can be done with the shaft still in place with a dremel equiped with a small cut-off grinding wheel (Always wear safety glasses when ever using metal working tools)
Finally,loosen the two set screws on both ends of the flybar cage and remove the shipping screws from the flybar cage (TIP: remove one screw and insert your flybar part way into the cage before removing the other)... install your stock flybar. Make sure it is exactly centered then lockdown the set screws. Install the flybar paddles so that they are level with the flybar cage.
You have now installed the Sonix v2 CNC head on your Walkera 22e. Use normal procedures for checking blade tracking and adjust tracking as neccesary.
Below is an edited excerpt from a later post since I realize some of you will not read the entire thread...
Next, you will need to remove the rear servo mount which also has the anti-rotation device built in to it.
To remove it, first remove the two rear aileron servos, then remove the two screws that secure it to the main frame.
Next, you need to remove the main shaft with the stock head still attached to it.
To remove the main shaft, loosen the set screws on the locking collar and main gear hub and pull the stock shaft and head out.
If you're using the stock Walkera servos, now is the ideal time to do the front servo mount modification (described below in "NOTE:" read and return to this step)
Slide the new shaft with it's locking collar in place through the bearings,lower spacer/collar and then main gear hub.
The first thing you'll notice when you actually install the head is that the shaft that is supplied with it is too long. Don't panic, you simply insert the shaft through the bearings and main gear hub and leave it long for now (we'll cut it off later). Don't lock the collars or main gear to the shaft yet, just snug the set screws so that it holds in place for now.
Next, re-install the rear servo holder that was previously removed and re-install the aileron servos (please continue reading for info about using the stock aileron servos before proceeding with any work).
For those of you setting up using the stock 22e electronics...collective (pitch) direction has been an issue. This can be resolved with a little work and repositioning of the servos
Before proceeding with servo setup , unplug your motors at the JST connectors on the 4 in 1.
If you buy aftermarket servos, they already rotate opposite from the stock walkera servos.
All you have to do then is flip dips #1 & 2 on the Tx and this will give you the correct movement on both collective and cyclic
If you have the stock servos...flip the elevator servo over (actually remove it from the holder and swap ends and re-install) then install the servo arm 180 degrees from where it was at so that you're working off the opposite side of the spindle.... swap the aileron servos (either at the Rx or physically move them, which ever is easiest for you) ....flip Tx dip #1 to the on position and everything is now oreintated the correct way with pitch travel being movement from bottom (0 or negative pitch) to top (full positive pitch).
NOTE: When changing the elevator servo orintation you will have to make some modification on the servo holder. This is covered later in the thread , but here is an explanation of what needs to be done.
The L shaped arm at the front of the main frame will need to be removed to make room for the new servo position. I used a hacksaw blade to carefully remove it and then filed it smooth. It's easier to do this after the front servo and it's holder are out of the way.
Remove the front servo holder, turn it around so that it faces the opposite direction, locate the mounting tab as close to the body mounting rod as possible. Use a 1/16 drill bit in a small hand drill to drill pilot holes for the screws to go into the main frame.
Install the screws being carefull not to strip out the screw holes.
The mount is now ready to install the servo in its new position.
Also, sp0on found out you do not have to change the #2 dip on the Tx.
At this point you should have all of your servos mounted and moving in the proper directions.
Now, you want connect your linkages from your servos to the head and check to make sure the swash plate is level, make adjustments if neccesary.
With the Tx throttle/collective stick at center or 50% (your motors should still be unplugged , we don't need to spin the head yet), your anti-rotation (AR) pin should be approxamately mid-point in the anti-rotation (AR) holder. If it isn't you need to adjust your linkages to achieve this. Make sure that your linkages have at least three full turns into the ball links and servo links, anything less than this is dangerous. If you can't achieve the proper AR pin location by making linkage adjustments then you will need to move the main shaft up or down to properly position the head. Once proper AR pin location is verified move the Tx cyclic stick (right stick) through it's full range and observe the swash, servos, and AR pin. Now move the Tx throttle/collective stick to the top or 100%, move the cyclic full range. Repeat this with the Throttle/collective at the bottom or 0%. You should not have any binding or jittering of the servos, if you do... go back and re-adjust your linkage until you get full cyclic in all throttle positions, checking to make sure the swash remains level after each adjustment.
With all swash movement being verified, lock down the set screws on the main shaft locking collars and main gear hub. Now it's time to trim the portion of the main shaft that was left sticking through the main gear hub. This can be done with the shaft still in place with a dremel equiped with a small cut-off grinding wheel (Always wear safety glasses when ever using metal working tools)
Finally,loosen the two set screws on both ends of the flybar cage and remove the shipping screws from the flybar cage (TIP: remove one screw and insert your flybar part way into the cage before removing the other)... install your stock flybar. Make sure it is exactly centered then lockdown the set screws. Install the flybar paddles so that they are level with the flybar cage.
You have now installed the Sonix v2 CNC head on your Walkera 22e. Use normal procedures for checking blade tracking and adjust tracking as neccesary.
Below is an edited excerpt from a later post since I realize some of you will not read the entire thread...
ORIGINAL: NY Rebel
2-12-2007
I flew mine briefly today. It experienced some vibration/headshake, then it went away with out explanation.
I think this is due to some of the linkages binding intermittently. I had gone through everything when I got it and checked the links, I thought I had them all sized correctly but maybe I missed one or two.
When it did smooth out...WOW!!! it was really smooth
I later found out that the head shake was due to less than perfect tracking.
This head is far more sensitive to blade tracking than either the stock head or the v1 CNC head. It has to be near perfect or you will get the intermittent head shake. After getting the tracking dialed in, this is the smoothest heli I've flown yet !!!
2-12-2007
I flew mine briefly today. It experienced some vibration/headshake, then it went away with out explanation.
I think this is due to some of the linkages binding intermittently. I had gone through everything when I got it and checked the links, I thought I had them all sized correctly but maybe I missed one or two.
When it did smooth out...WOW!!! it was really smooth
I later found out that the head shake was due to less than perfect tracking.
This head is far more sensitive to blade tracking than either the stock head or the v1 CNC head. It has to be near perfect or you will get the intermittent head shake. After getting the tracking dialed in, this is the smoothest heli I've flown yet !!!
02-10-2007, 06:20 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
[EDITED TO ADD INFO TO THREAD]
So far I have found the CNC to be a very good upgrade. It is smooth, as mentioned by NY, and durable.
It does take, however, quite a bit of work to get set up, as you can see from the above posts. This may not be for some.
A disadvantage that I have been noticing from the CNC is the weight. With a stock heli, it is already lacking power IMO.
So, i would suggest pairing this upgrade with a Lipo battery. The lipo weighs less, and gives more power and flight time. With the stock batt you can run out of steam quite quickly, and also the bird is a little on the heavy side.
If you already have a lipo, or even a BL motor (which would probably help give more power), then the CNC is a smart upgrade for your 22E.
[ANOTHER EDIT]
After playing around with the PLT and PZT knobs I managed to get the heli to fly much better and longer. I also had to adjust the hieght of the swashplate so that the pitch was good with all the servo arms at a good angle and with the cyclic controls and trim in the middle.
Heres my latest video of me flying with the CNC upgrade: It is quite stable as you can see (must be the pilot :P). Also, you can see there is no lack of power with stock setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M4lv...elated&search=
I have a lipo on the way, so I am excited to see how it flys with that upgrade as well!
EDIT: NOW WITH LIPO
Got my 1200mah 10C lipo, it has completely changed this machine! I hover around 53% throttle, and can rocket into the sky when i want. The weight from CNC head is no longer an issue one bit.
After playing with PLT and PIT again, i was able to get the heli to hover just perfectly (had a nice calm day today to do it), and could have it just sit there for 3-5 seconds without any cyclic input (no hands!). This CNC head has sure made my 22E a great helicopter to fly, very stable and smooth, yet responsive!
Although heavy on the wallet the CNC upgrade is great!! Holds up great in crashes...Ive had two into cement with no head damage! Just blades! (and landing gear..etc : P)
So far I have found the CNC to be a very good upgrade. It is smooth, as mentioned by NY, and durable.
It does take, however, quite a bit of work to get set up, as you can see from the above posts. This may not be for some.
A disadvantage that I have been noticing from the CNC is the weight. With a stock heli, it is already lacking power IMO.
So, i would suggest pairing this upgrade with a Lipo battery. The lipo weighs less, and gives more power and flight time. With the stock batt you can run out of steam quite quickly, and also the bird is a little on the heavy side.
If you already have a lipo, or even a BL motor (which would probably help give more power), then the CNC is a smart upgrade for your 22E.
[ANOTHER EDIT]
After playing around with the PLT and PZT knobs I managed to get the heli to fly much better and longer. I also had to adjust the hieght of the swashplate so that the pitch was good with all the servo arms at a good angle and with the cyclic controls and trim in the middle.
Heres my latest video of me flying with the CNC upgrade: It is quite stable as you can see (must be the pilot :P). Also, you can see there is no lack of power with stock setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6M4lv...elated&search=
I have a lipo on the way, so I am excited to see how it flys with that upgrade as well!
EDIT: NOW WITH LIPO
Got my 1200mah 10C lipo, it has completely changed this machine! I hover around 53% throttle, and can rocket into the sky when i want. The weight from CNC head is no longer an issue one bit.
After playing with PLT and PIT again, i was able to get the heli to hover just perfectly (had a nice calm day today to do it), and could have it just sit there for 3-5 seconds without any cyclic input (no hands!). This CNC head has sure made my 22E a great helicopter to fly, very stable and smooth, yet responsive!
Although heavy on the wallet the CNC upgrade is great!! Holds up great in crashes...Ive had two into cement with no head damage! Just blades! (and landing gear..etc : P)
02-10-2007, 06:44 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
You need to turn the blade holders back over.
Then reverse (switch the Rx connectors or physically move the servos) your aileron servos (the two at the back)......
flip (turn end for end) your elevator servo, and flip the dip switch # 1
I don't have my stock servos or it would be easier for me to work out for you....
Then reverse (switch the Rx connectors or physically move the servos) your aileron servos (the two at the back)......
flip (turn end for end) your elevator servo, and flip the dip switch # 1
I don't have my stock servos or it would be easier for me to work out for you....
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
1) you lost me describing what you were doing to the balls on your swash
2) all i did was flop the blade holders over, now should i try and switch the flybar cage or ??
you said something about your after market servos, but i have stock servos, is there anyway i can electronically counter this error?
spOon
1) you lost me describing what you were doing to the balls on your swash
2) all i did was flop the blade holders over, now should i try and switch the flybar cage or ??
you said something about your after market servos, but i have stock servos, is there anyway i can electronically counter this error?
spOon
02-10-2007, 06:52 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
I took the ball studs that came on the head out and replaced them with LOSI B1051 (trade name and stock number of the ball studs I'm using)
I changed them because the ball studs that were on the head added about 2mm in length. This was one of the problems with the geometry on the linkages.
I'm not 100% happy with mine but it'll fly. Yours was looking pretty good, I think you can probably fly without any problem once you get the pitch movement right.
I changed them because the ball studs that were on the head added about 2mm in length. This was one of the problems with the geometry on the linkages.
I'm not 100% happy with mine but it'll fly. Yours was looking pretty good, I think you can probably fly without any problem once you get the pitch movement right.
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
1) you lost me describing what you were doing to the balls on your swash
2) all i did was flop the blade holders over, now should i try and switch the flybar cage or ??
you said something about your after market servos, but i have stock servos, is there anyway i can electronically counter this error?
spOon
1) you lost me describing what you were doing to the balls on your swash
2) all i did was flop the blade holders over, now should i try and switch the flybar cage or ??
you said something about your after market servos, but i have stock servos, is there anyway i can electronically counter this error?
spOon
02-10-2007, 08:05 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
OK, I'm truly sorry, but please explain in more detail of which servos i flip, how i do it, and your definition of flip...
I will start flipping my main blades back over now.
THanks, spOon
I will start flipping my main blades back over now.
THanks, spOon
02-10-2007, 08:10 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
Great, i just realized that now when i flip my blade holders over, i will need to take off the main blades and flip them too, thats a good amount of work considering i stripped the bolt on one of the blades..
02-10-2007, 08:35 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
well i got the blade holders flipped over and the blades flipped as well, now its not level at all anymore - the flybar tilts back and to one side, and the main blades are slightly pitched. So i guess i will be fiddling with that still some more. What is it i do to the servos now?
Thanks.
spOon
PS im going out for the night, but will be back later.
Thanks.
spOon
PS im going out for the night, but will be back later.
02-10-2007, 08:45 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
OK...I think I've got my head straight here (doing tooo many things at once)...
The aileron servos...swap positions of the actual servos...
OR swap positions with the connectors in the receiver (which ever is easier for you).
The elevator servo...you need the servo arm working on the opposite side than what it is now....
to keep geometry as close as possible you probably need to turn the servo over which will place the spindle on the other end from where it is now...
then re-attach the servo arm 180 degrees opposite from where it is now and put the #1 Tx dip switch in the "on" position...
Your servos should now move in the correct direction both for collective and cyclic.
Picture 1 shows the elevator servo picture 2 shows the same servo but working in the opposite direction due to the servo arm being on the other side of the spindle.
Sorry pic 2 is out of focus.
Notice in pic 1...
The servo arm where the linkage is attached is almost dead center of the frame rail with the arm in the "center" position.
It is almost perfectly vertical and "plumb" under the swash ball ...That is near perfect geometry....
Idealy the rear servos would have the same geometry but they can't because of the design of the heli... I may change that soon ...LOL
The aileron servos...swap positions of the actual servos...
OR swap positions with the connectors in the receiver (which ever is easier for you).
The elevator servo...you need the servo arm working on the opposite side than what it is now....
to keep geometry as close as possible you probably need to turn the servo over which will place the spindle on the other end from where it is now...
then re-attach the servo arm 180 degrees opposite from where it is now and put the #1 Tx dip switch in the "on" position...
Your servos should now move in the correct direction both for collective and cyclic.
Picture 1 shows the elevator servo picture 2 shows the same servo but working in the opposite direction due to the servo arm being on the other side of the spindle.
Sorry pic 2 is out of focus.
Notice in pic 1...
The servo arm where the linkage is attached is almost dead center of the frame rail with the arm in the "center" position.
It is almost perfectly vertical and "plumb" under the swash ball ...That is near perfect geometry....
Idealy the rear servos would have the same geometry but they can't because of the design of the heli... I may change that soon ...LOL
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
OK, I'm truly sorry, but please explain in more detail of which servos i flip, how i do it, and your definition of flip...
I will start flipping my main blades back over now.
THanks, spOon
OK, I'm truly sorry, but please explain in more detail of which servos i flip, how i do it, and your definition of flip...
I will start flipping my main blades back over now.
THanks, spOon
02-10-2007, 08:59 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
If anyone is curious...
The "pepper" on the main gear (and everywhere else for that matter) is powdered graphite....one of the slickest dry lubricants there is other tan teflon (and possibly others that I'm unaware of ) .
It lubricates better than oil and doesn't attract dirt.
Only thing is..you have to make a mess with it and keep working it in
Once it has "coated" the parts, that's it ...your parts now have one of the best lubricants you can put on them...
The "pepper" on the main gear (and everywhere else for that matter) is powdered graphite....one of the slickest dry lubricants there is other tan teflon (and possibly others that I'm unaware of ) .
It lubricates better than oil and doesn't attract dirt.
Only thing is..you have to make a mess with it and keep working it in
Once it has "coated" the parts, that's it ...your parts now have one of the best lubricants you can put on them...
02-11-2007, 12:14 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
Ok, i switched the connections on the receiver, and turned the #2 switch to off.
Then i took off the elevator servo, and tried flipping it over, but then the screws don't line up for one, and for two, the servo lines up directly under the swash ball now, and the arm extending out to the side makes a large angle to go back to the ball overtop... are you sure i need to do this? it seemed to line up pretty well already, minus the fact that it had to bend forward because of the size of the swash. on that matter, could i add a spacer for that servo somehow so that the arm goes straight up instead of bending forward?
Thanks,
spOon
Then i took off the elevator servo, and tried flipping it over, but then the screws don't line up for one, and for two, the servo lines up directly under the swash ball now, and the arm extending out to the side makes a large angle to go back to the ball overtop... are you sure i need to do this? it seemed to line up pretty well already, minus the fact that it had to bend forward because of the size of the swash. on that matter, could i add a spacer for that servo somehow so that the arm goes straight up instead of bending forward?
Thanks,
spOon
02-11-2007, 12:49 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
I've been reading this site for a couple of weeks. I of course bought a W. 22e. And Thinking I might have a clue from Flying Planes for 12 years and racing R/c Truck for 4. I might know what I'm doing. But of course I didn't. Made some mistakes along the way.
The first brush motor Had a piece break off inside and it quite. Then I bought a 2nd from my hobby store for 10.00 and it seems to after 2 weeks be loosing it's power as well. It won't get off the deck hardly.
I have anyways came to the conclusion that The brush motor soon heats up and looses power to even get the W. E22 off the ground. I just went on line, just now, and purchased the 4200kv combo set brushless motor and esc from EHrirobo. and a couple of 11V 2200 Li-Po's Thinking that that motor will eat the juice quiker. And a heat sink.
I thought I would email one of you guys and ask if this was a mistake. Or is this too much for this Heli? Also is the pinion that comes with it the right size.
Also I was trying to figure out how the servo extend knob and the Delay Knob for the gyro. I've adjusted them and read the discription and they don't seem to change the flight pattern at all.
I have also kicked myself for not just going to the Walkera 60 Metal and brushless of on of the other more better made heli's on ebay. I figure if I do than these recently purchased part with transfer over easy enough.
Abyways any takers on these ?.
The first brush motor Had a piece break off inside and it quite. Then I bought a 2nd from my hobby store for 10.00 and it seems to after 2 weeks be loosing it's power as well. It won't get off the deck hardly.
I have anyways came to the conclusion that The brush motor soon heats up and looses power to even get the W. E22 off the ground. I just went on line, just now, and purchased the 4200kv combo set brushless motor and esc from EHrirobo. and a couple of 11V 2200 Li-Po's Thinking that that motor will eat the juice quiker. And a heat sink.
I thought I would email one of you guys and ask if this was a mistake. Or is this too much for this Heli? Also is the pinion that comes with it the right size.
Also I was trying to figure out how the servo extend knob and the Delay Knob for the gyro. I've adjusted them and read the discription and they don't seem to change the flight pattern at all.
I have also kicked myself for not just going to the Walkera 60 Metal and brushless of on of the other more better made heli's on ebay. I figure if I do than these recently purchased part with transfer over easy enough.
Abyways any takers on these ?.
02-11-2007, 01:48 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
It seems now that when ever i try to tilt forward or back, with the elevator servo, the other servos go up and down too, raising and lower the swash instead of tilting...
My right and left work fine.
spOon
My right and left work fine.
spOon
02-11-2007, 04:21 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
02-11-2007, 05:30 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
ORIGINAL: JSGP51
I've been reading this site for a couple of weeks. I of course bought a W. 22e. And Thinking I might have a clue from Flying Planes for 12 years and racing R/c Truck for 4. I might know what I'm doing. But of course I didn't. Made some mistakes along the way.
The first brush motor Had a piece break off inside and it quite. Then I bought a 2nd from my hobby store for 10.00 and it seems to after 2 weeks be loosing it's power as well. It won't get off the deck hardly.
I have anyways came to the conclusion that The brush motor soon heats up and looses power to even get the W. E22 off the ground. I just went on line, just now, and purchased the 4200kv combo set brushless motor and esc from EHrirobo. and a couple of 11V 2200 Li-Po's Thinking that that motor will eat the juice quiker. And a heat sink.
I thought I would email one of you guys and ask if this was a mistake. Or is this too much for this Heli? Also is the pinion that comes with it the right size.
Also I was trying to figure out how the servo extend knob and the Delay Knob for the gyro. I've adjusted them and read the discription and they don't seem to change the flight pattern at all.
I have also kicked myself for not just going to the Walkera 60 Metal and brushless of on of the other more better made heli's on ebay. I figure if I do than these recently purchased part with transfer over easy enough.
Abyways any takers on these ?.
I've been reading this site for a couple of weeks. I of course bought a W. 22e. And Thinking I might have a clue from Flying Planes for 12 years and racing R/c Truck for 4. I might know what I'm doing. But of course I didn't. Made some mistakes along the way.
The first brush motor Had a piece break off inside and it quite. Then I bought a 2nd from my hobby store for 10.00 and it seems to after 2 weeks be loosing it's power as well. It won't get off the deck hardly.
I have anyways came to the conclusion that The brush motor soon heats up and looses power to even get the W. E22 off the ground. I just went on line, just now, and purchased the 4200kv combo set brushless motor and esc from EHrirobo. and a couple of 11V 2200 Li-Po's Thinking that that motor will eat the juice quiker. And a heat sink.
I thought I would email one of you guys and ask if this was a mistake. Or is this too much for this Heli? Also is the pinion that comes with it the right size.
Also I was trying to figure out how the servo extend knob and the Delay Knob for the gyro. I've adjusted them and read the discription and they don't seem to change the flight pattern at all.
I have also kicked myself for not just going to the Walkera 60 Metal and brushless of on of the other more better made heli's on ebay. I figure if I do than these recently purchased part with transfer over easy enough.
Abyways any takers on these ?.
I will gladly answer to your questions.
Please try to understand why we're doing this. There are many people starting this hobby per week, and it's not easy to answer to the same questions over and over again...
Hope to see you in the other forum!
(BTW: 2200 mah lipo is too heavy for this heli... It will fly but will be difficult. Sorry..)
02-11-2007, 05:32 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
Spoon, have you modified your front servo holder?
02-11-2007, 09:23 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
sp0on,
It looks like you need to file a little clearence on your servo holder for the servo to bolt up properly when it's turned over.
Idealy, you want all linkages to have approx the same angles but some difference may be unavoidable...
The thing with all the servos moving together when you move elevator stick?????????? Your anti-rotation pin isn't bottoming out is it?
If it is you need to raise everthing a couple of mm ...
It looks like you need to file a little clearence on your servo holder for the servo to bolt up properly when it's turned over.
Idealy, you want all linkages to have approx the same angles but some difference may be unavoidable...
The thing with all the servos moving together when you move elevator stick?????????? Your anti-rotation pin isn't bottoming out is it?
If it is you need to raise everthing a couple of mm ...
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
02-11-2007, 11:33 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
I'm still trying to find my way arounf this site. I've read alot of emails off this site. and I thought I'd heard of you'll using thee 2200 LiPo. But maybe I was wrong. And won't the larger motor conpensate for the weight?
02-11-2007, 11:39 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
ORIGINAL: spOon2410
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
NY Rebel:
As you can see from the photos, i tried flipping over the elevator servo, but it just doesn't look right. The arm has to go way over to the right and then come back to the swashplate, instead of just going straight up. If that works then so be it, to me it looks much worse.
Also I still have the problem of all the servos moving at once, instead of just the elevator one.
-JT
02-11-2007, 11:40 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
SpOon,
Unfortunately, the stock Walkera servos are not symetrical. The mounting holes in the stock mounts will not line up correctly
if the servos are turned over, since the mounting holes on the servo, are not equidistant from the center of the case.
Unfortunately, the stock Walkera servos are not symetrical. The mounting holes in the stock mounts will not line up correctly
if the servos are turned over, since the mounting holes on the servo, are not equidistant from the center of the case.
02-11-2007, 11:47 AM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
ORIGINAL: JSGP51
I'm still trying to find my way arounf this site. I've read alot of emails off this site. and I thought I'd heard of you'll using thee 2200 LiPo. But maybe I was wrong. And won't the larger motor conpensate for the weight?
I'm still trying to find my way arounf this site. I've read alot of emails off this site. and I thought I'd heard of you'll using thee 2200 LiPo. But maybe I was wrong. And won't the larger motor conpensate for the weight?
Thank you for your cooperation...
02-11-2007, 12:45 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
Thank you for pointing that out JT...
Yes, 120 degree eCCPM has many different interactions... that is why geometry is so important.
All three axis have to work in unison, if one of the three is working on a different "ratio" then it will affect the flight characteristics.
This becomes more apparent on the collective.
When you get everything set up on the cyclic part of it, then it's time to check the collective.
With the right stick - neutral (motors unplugged) push the throttle stick up and observe the swash plate to make sure it stays level through the full movement.
If it does then your geometry is acceptable for a good stable flight.
Yes, 120 degree eCCPM has many different interactions... that is why geometry is so important.
All three axis have to work in unison, if one of the three is working on a different "ratio" then it will affect the flight characteristics.
This becomes more apparent on the collective.
When you get everything set up on the cyclic part of it, then it's time to check the collective.
With the right stick - neutral (motors unplugged) push the throttle stick up and observe the swash plate to make sure it stays level through the full movement.
If it does then your geometry is acceptable for a good stable flight.
ORIGINAL: jtspin
There isn't "just" an elevator servo. All three servos move together to tilt the swash forwards and backwards. To tilt the swash forwards, the rear two servos move up while the front servo moves down. To tilt backwards, the rear two move down while the front servo moves up. When tilting from side to side, one of the rear servos moves up while the other moves down. The front servo shouldn't move at all when tilting from side to side.
-JT
There isn't "just" an elevator servo. All three servos move together to tilt the swash forwards and backwards. To tilt the swash forwards, the rear two servos move up while the front servo moves down. To tilt backwards, the rear two move down while the front servo moves up. When tilting from side to side, one of the rear servos moves up while the other moves down. The front servo shouldn't move at all when tilting from side to side.
-JT
02-11-2007, 02:36 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
cmavr8: no my servos(actually my heli) is stock, minus the CNC.
tnoyce: yea it doesnt quite line up but i should be able to just drill new whole in the servo mount to fix that.
JT, NY Rebel: instead of elevating the front and lowering the back, like you said JT, it just elevates everything... I just tried unplugging the motor and increasing throttle. The back two servos move up, but the front moves down. This is with the front servo mounted in original position. I flipped it back over to original position, because im not sure that when the servo is upside-down that it lines up properly, like it shows in my pictures. Are you sure i need to flip my servo over and rotate the arm? Its a bit of work to get it mounted and im not sure that i could go back.
And no, my anti-rotation pin has lots of room to move.
Thanks,
spOon
tnoyce: yea it doesnt quite line up but i should be able to just drill new whole in the servo mount to fix that.
JT, NY Rebel: instead of elevating the front and lowering the back, like you said JT, it just elevates everything... I just tried unplugging the motor and increasing throttle. The back two servos move up, but the front moves down. This is with the front servo mounted in original position. I flipped it back over to original position, because im not sure that when the servo is upside-down that it lines up properly, like it shows in my pictures. Are you sure i need to flip my servo over and rotate the arm? Its a bit of work to get it mounted and im not sure that i could go back.
And no, my anti-rotation pin has lots of room to move.
Thanks,
spOon
02-11-2007, 03:10 PM
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RE: 22e v2 CNC upgrade setup
Ok i got the servo flipped over and the arm going the other way, elevation works now (same with the side to side). I still don't like the setup though.
I attached two pictures of how it looks now, because i want to show you how much the arm bends outwards.
Also one thing to add. When i tilt forwards now, the front servo goes down properly, and the left goes up, but the right servo doesnt go up as much. I think this is because of the front servo arm being at that angle.
When i increase throttle with motor off the swash goes up near perfectly and the blades pitch.
spOon.
I attached two pictures of how it looks now, because i want to show you how much the arm bends outwards.
Also one thing to add. When i tilt forwards now, the front servo goes down properly, and the left goes up, but the right servo doesnt go up as much. I think this is because of the front servo arm being at that angle.
When i increase throttle with motor off the swash goes up near perfectly and the blades pitch.
spOon.