aspeed

http://www.spadtothebone.net/SPAD/ less than $35. Not sure about 130 mph. Maybe.

yankee samurai

My Feedback: (175)

Yes I have a feather cut system.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

That still does not sound right for the Gremlin I have never seen a motor unload that much even in a dive and how does a model fly faster than a prop can move it through the air. If a prop is moving air slower than the velocity of the plane its acting as a brake. I just cannot see a Gremlin with all that drag powered by an OS .35 reaching that speed. Sorry it just doesn't add up. What pitch and diameter prop were you using? Most common that will provide enough tractive effort for a hand launch with that size model and motor is no greater than a 6 pitch at about 8 inch diameter and the OS .35 might only spin that at about 11,000 on its best day. I am sorry I don't buy the 130 mph with that combination.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

OK if your really interested we should move this to its own topic and not continue to hijack this one do you agree?

Sorry if I have been taking a bit long to answer I have been working on a new design for indoor flying. Made for cheap Hobby King parts durable enough to take a licking and keep on ticking. Its not as light as a competition machine but its made for beginners and intermediate flyers that will no doubt have some hard contact with others/walls/floors and ceilings. Its made from the fan fold foam used under siding. These fly outdoors well too. Will test fly it this Sunday.



Dennis

dan v

131 mph on radar with .35 os engine. and my os.46 AX II gremlin is even faster. A friend of mine
uses a racing .40 engine w/a tuned pipe that is the fastest gremlin on our field.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

This is my last reply to you about how fast you think your gremlin flies. I really don’t care how fast you think your Gremlin is. If you enjoy flying it who am I to rain on your parade enjoy yourself don’t worry how fast it is.

I do know the Gremlin was a great first combat ship but within a year or two of combat very few were flying them any more as other designs were more competitive. Our club decided to fly combat with the only restrictions being a .25, design was wide open. Within one summer no more Gremlins everyone was into speed and maneuverability and the Gremlin didn’t cut it even with a Jett .25 with pipe. It went as fast as the Wedgie but weighed more and as a result could not keep up in the turns or climb.

As far as cost the wedgie is cut from the lightest 2 inch thick by 24 inch by 8ft foam found at Home depot at the time about 8 bucks. You could get 2 compete from one 8 ft sheet then with a few sheets of 3/32 balsa and water based contact cement the wing was covered. A little ply for the tank and motor mount and some aileron stock and it was ready to cover about 40 bucks and you could have two ready to go.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

dang double post sorry

Tbobflow

Where can I get the kit?

thanks!

dan v

here is ra cores website. http://www.racores.com/index.html
Dan

Tbobflow

Thanks Dan!!

dan v

No problem Tbobflow. Here is my email. I could give u many tips including pictures if u want . I've built and crashed many of these Gremlins.
[email protected]

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

The worst possible configuration for picking off streamers is with a swept leading edge wing.

Tbobflow

So its a foam EPP wing with balsa leading edge and other trim bits?

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

You guys are all so easy a little spray contact cement on the leading edge before each flight cleaned off with Monokote Trim Solvent to prevent build up rips streamers off better than uncoated straight wings. The tip plates got quite a few as well. Funniest strategy was to come up behind a slower flying plane and just as you crossed the ribbon hit the snap switch which was set up for extreme throw. It would do 2 or three hard snaps as it passed the ribbon often snagging it. Of course the trick was intimidation by aiming at the other plane when doing this. Mid airs were a fact of life and with a little strategic carbon fiber you could literally fly right through an opponent and as long as you didn’t hit with the motor most times you just kept on flying. Lots of foam bits floating down.

Ah a few pictures of one of the original Gremlin Killers HE HE HE HE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Notice the leading edge still has old contact cement on it and the canted engine to allow the exhaust manifold to clear the wing. All electronics are inside the wing. The blood streaks are in memory of those I have mid aired with and survived. The others not so lucky HE HE HE!!!!!!

dan v

Foam wing with hardwood leading edge. If you get the $75.00 kit It's ready to cover all the wood is glued on.
Would be easier and faster to email me directly, than using this post. What engine u going to use?
[email protected] put in the subject line gremlin help
Dan

Tbobflow

I'm digging your nitro Zaggy setup there Proworn. I'll drop you a lne Dan, thanks!

aspeed

The guys at the US Nats used some kind of sticky goop on the leading edge of the wings. It would come off and have to be reapplied every other flight or so. The pit guys didn't like it for sure. A notch in the rudder, and wing is pretty common to snag the streamer too. Some clubs outlaw sharp leading edges.

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Every time we looked someone was making up one rule or another. We were only competing within our club so to keep it simple and allow as much creativity as possible the only rule was a .25 engine. Later when we saw how much of a dog the ones with the bigger engines were we let them fly too. The cannon fodder as they were called was good practice for the beginners.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

He he he designed and built long before a Zagi which was a pusher if I remember correctly. Flew a slope soaring wing called a Boomerang long before the Zagi came along. There are only so many configurations in a flying wing that work well. The Zagi like the Boomerang and the Wedgie come from a long line of proven configurations nothing new or innovative except maybe the airfoil and the amount of reflex if any.

Dennis

yankee samurai

My Feedback: (175)

What do you care about print costs if I'm paying for it? Kinko's is world wide you don't have one close?

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Read my reply I live in Canada no Kinko's no easy blueprint copier in my neighbourhood. I would have to ask a tool shop or such to copy it for me. Its not worth the expense. The final model was quite different than the old prints. You come off as a bit aggrieved when there is no need to be. I offered to start a new thread which anyone would be able to build one of these things. It would also let anyone else build one without having to explain it more than once. Please be careful with any attitude your the one who is interested I already own several and don't need a print or plan to build others.

Now on that note Randy if you wish to be able to build one from scratch I can start a new topic that will allow you to build one with all the latest improvements. A simple yes or no thanks will be sufficient.\

One other thing to note is that the plans on-line or hard copy remain free domain.......Anyone can copy, change or pass them on as long as its free.



Dennis

yankee samurai

My Feedback: (175)

Sure that would be great. I assume that you will somehow make the templates available to cut the cores?

Tbobflow

I'm interested in how you build the engine mount into the foam wing Propworm. Can you show some detail pics?

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Let me get a start on it then. Understand I will be starting from a rather simple point of view and moving to actual construction this being for those who stumble upon the thread at a later date still will be able to build one from scratch. On the templates they are freehand. What I mean by that is that they are not a known template but drawn up solely to accommodate the thickness of the electronics so they could be concealed inside the skin of the wing. I had flown many control line models including combat with wings nothing but a flat sheet of balsa 1/4 inch thick. I also flew a Lil Satan with a fully symmetrical built up wing. Both flew well with the symmetrical wing having a slight advantage. So the rib templates are symmetrical with the widest portion about where I thought the electronics might be located for balance. Guys have used sharp leading edges and every radius in between it seems to make no difference. They have also increased the thickness and within reason it hasn’t made any difference. So I will take a picture of the templates with a dimension and it should be close enough for what you need.

Dennis

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

double post again ?????