FairTax4me

The carbide balls are harder, so they stay smooth for longer. Acer Racing makes Ceramic balls that are even harder than the carbide ones but for backyard bashing the regular steel ones should be fine. Just keep your slipper clutch adjusted properly and they shouldn't give you any trouble.

Evader ---> MGT

Ok, I've been reading about the ball diff mod for a LONG time, but after having a Nitro Evader, the ball diff sucked. It would loosen every run, and the gear would melt or the balls would get ruined. IT was the most painful thing I've ever had to deal with in RC. The aluminum gears just chewed eachother up leaving alum shards all over the gears further increasing wear. NOT A GOOD DIFF! No one had good luck with it...

Is the B4 diff like this, or can it handle the brushless power with relative easy and minimal maintainance? I don't wanna be tightening every three runs...

Evader-Revo master

my only problem with the diff is that the balls gets smaller and in the acceleration it slips and sounds weird making a slow acceleration. I think that if I put the slipper clutch losen so it can slip more, it save the diff for being broken buy it can slow the acceleration. and how the ext diff can slip? it is bevel gear.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah it soulds like the carbide diff balls are the way go i'ld probally get carbide thrust balls as well if its loosening up, and what side are you putting the adjustment screw head on, it should go on the right side if you're looking from the back.

idk how the bevel gears slip but they do and its just their nature i don't think we notice it but it happeneds??

and how do you grease you're ball diff??

Evader-Revo master

I dont grease my ball diff, it was untoushed, then it broke. I try to glue all the diff with exposy you know to nos slip anymore but 6 runs after it broke again.

FairTax4me

You just need to get a rustler. Then you could get all steel gears in the trans and not have to worry about it.

You need to grease the balls in the diff or they'll wear out faster. What part of it broke after the epoxy?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

[X(][X(] damn dude grease that thing
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX2882&P=ML
apply a thin coat on both sides of diff balls
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX2880&P=ML
trust bearins and a thin coat on gears
you'll thank me soon

the lug

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

I KNOW I'M DOUBLE POSTING AND HAVE CAPS ON BUT I FOUND THE DISH WHEEL FOR THE EVADER THAT DON'T CRACK AND HAVE IT'S HUBS STRIP OUT EASY!!!!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYT6&P=K
fits like a glove and is made of much better plastic

the lug

FairTax4me

Those come in yellow?

Evader ---> MGT

So, anyone have an answer to my question above besides having it slip with cheap ball bearings?

FairTax4me

MGT, I hope not. I just did the B2 diff updrade, spent $40 on parts and I'm hoping it will hold up to at least what I can throw at it with a mod 19T brushed motor, that has already blown it apart once. If it happens again I'm not sure what Ill do. I haven't run it with the new trans because the steering servo went kaput. [&:] Kinda hard to drive if you can't turn. My LHS has some nice Futaba hi torque servos on order and I'm waiting for one of those. Also waiting for some caster king pins I had them order for me, since mine are bent.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

make sure its MG or else you don't get gears that are any stronger, if that don't work out for ya i'ld look at gettin' this
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPHD3&P=7
or this (what i have)
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDWF8&P=ML

the lug

Scooter30

You know, I don't see how a shop can be called a Duratrax dealer when all they carry is a few replacement parts. I wasted over an hour of my time driving to place that's listed as a dealer on Duratrax's website.
Guess I need to call or e-mail first.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

that sucks, my lhs has like now parts for anything but traxxas... [&o]

the lug

Evader-Revo master

please vote:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8068036/tm.htm

I want the opinion of all in that post, can be very useful in the future

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

been there done that

the lug

Evader ---> MGT

This is by far the best deal as far as servos go, unless you want chinese stuff...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNRT1&P=7

190oz/in at 6v for $40! I love mine, turns the 40series Big Joes on my Monster GT with ease. Best deal ever...

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

i got that for my savvy and it works great no complaits but major overkill and too slow for 1/10 get the ts 140 or the hobbieco cs 140 its the same thing different sticker

the lug

FairTax4me

It wasn't the gears that were the problem. The king pins that got bent were preventing the servo from returning completely to center so it was buzzing all the time. There's a term for that but I forget what it is. Anyway it burnt up the motor in the servo because of it. After a while it just plain wouldn't turn unless the wheels were off the ground.

Evader-Revo master

The High Rate Steering Servo Saver is a good upgrade?

blazenevader

i've never used the high rate steering upgrade but i have a futaba mg servo with a aluminum servo arm and so far have no problems

Evader-Revo master

I have high torque servo but it not is metal gear. the servo safe is lose to bestprotection but the car turns slowly I should adjust it? THe high stering protectmore the servo? I think that here none have that upgrade.

for the wheelie bar, I pick in tower the Jato wheeliebar, maybe fit with a redrill, another wheelie bar that can be redrilled to fit evader? please only tower hobbies products, I not want to spend a lot of money in 2 oor more shipings. For the grease I chosse MIP carbide balls diff lube, and tamiya ceramic grease. This are the best greases? if not what are the best? need another grease?

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

only way to go... tho i've blown apart bellcranks too, but my servo saver got locked 2 screwdrives + wd40 fixed that, i just tess against the ball stud and bellcranks on opposite sideds towards eachother to make sure it's loose...

as for the high rate stering i got that stock on the pro so it's held up pretty well but like i said 1 maybe 2 blown bellcranks (probally 1) 2 stripped servos 2 horns... tho my saver was probally locked down at the time... so if you keep it loose you should be safe, but i still recomend the ts (or cs) 140 35 digital, high speed plenty of torque mg, with a futaba aluminum servo horn i had to cut mine down and redrill a hole, the nut that was holding the stud on came off but i'm useing a body clip with great suscess clipped rite on the threads

of grease i like the AE's Steath silicon diff grease (search tower: diff lube) its from ae kinda clear color designed for ball diffs (second on the list if you search as suggjested)

and for the thrust bearings and all other internal gears i got the AE black grease (first under the "stuff other people got who got this" )

for all things on the outside that get lubed i use o'donnels o'lube, (tower search : o'lube) (first on the search)

thats what i use i like the o'lube cuz it leaves no residue so stuff don't stick, cause more wear than it prevents....

Evader-Revo master

you say that the pro have the high speed stering from stock? I want to check that on mine. thanks for the help. external I use car oil it lubricates well but is going dirt fast.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

thats what o love about the O'lube



that joint should've had way more dirt and mud and it all came off supre easy

you can even see where the dirt thins out near the hub, i just squirt a bunch in the hubs general direction (it's a big bottle), this was just after it had rained, so the track was super muddy and sticky, so if that's not good enough fo you idk what is...

the lug