C-ARF Ultra Flash build Thread + Video
#5551
Yep, yellow and sliver. Here's a stock pic, but I'll post some actual ones once it arrives. The only change I made was to the underside...Instead of solid yellow I went with a checkered yellow/ silver pattern.
#5553
I actually owe you a bit of gratitude...I had just placed an order with Linda for a Yellow Checkered version when I stumbled across your earlier post/ pic. Called her back right away and made the change...so thank you!
#5556
Linda at Dreamworks got me squared away. Because it was a custom scheme it wasn't going to be ready in time make their next container. That would've meant a late spring/early summer delivery. Opted for DHL shipping which should take about week once ready.
#5557
My Feedback: (2)
Have been working on my Ultra Flash, and after pulling the engine (Merlin 140XBL), I noticed that the ducting around the rear of the engine has discolored, turning white. It is noticeable both inside and out, and to a lesser extent on the removable (lower) half too.
I am assuming that this is caused by thermal distress.
I have 58 flights on the plane, the first 45 were with a Wren MW54 SuperSport, and the latest 13 have been with a Merlin 140XBL. I didn't notice any discoloration when I upgraded from the Wren.
The discoloration aligns with the rear part of the main body of the engine, and the area around the exhaust nozzle shows no sign of any color change, nor does the carbon bellmouth.
Is this a normal color change with use, or do I need to change something (maybe move the engine in the duct)?
Thanks
Paul
I am assuming that this is caused by thermal distress.
I have 58 flights on the plane, the first 45 were with a Wren MW54 SuperSport, and the latest 13 have been with a Merlin 140XBL. I didn't notice any discoloration when I upgraded from the Wren.
The discoloration aligns with the rear part of the main body of the engine, and the area around the exhaust nozzle shows no sign of any color change, nor does the carbon bellmouth.
Is this a normal color change with use, or do I need to change something (maybe move the engine in the duct)?
Thanks
Paul
#5558
Thread Starter
Have been working on my Ultra Flash, and after pulling the engine (Merlin 140XBL), I noticed that the ducting around the rear of the engine has discolored, turning white. It is noticeable both inside and out, and to a lesser extent on the removable (lower) half too.
I am assuming that this is caused by thermal distress.
I have 58 flights on the plane, the first 45 were with a Wren MW54 SuperSport, and the latest 13 have been with a Merlin 140XBL. I didn't notice any discoloration when I upgraded from the Wren.
The discoloration aligns with the rear part of the main body of the engine, and the area around the exhaust nozzle shows no sign of any color change, nor does the carbon bellmouth.
Is this a normal color change with use, or do I need to change something (maybe move the engine in the duct)?
Thanks
Paul
I am assuming that this is caused by thermal distress.
I have 58 flights on the plane, the first 45 were with a Wren MW54 SuperSport, and the latest 13 have been with a Merlin 140XBL. I didn't notice any discoloration when I upgraded from the Wren.
The discoloration aligns with the rear part of the main body of the engine, and the area around the exhaust nozzle shows no sign of any color change, nor does the carbon bellmouth.
Is this a normal color change with use, or do I need to change something (maybe move the engine in the duct)?
Thanks
Paul
#5560
Thread Starter
Paul
Yes, but all looks good. Tailpipe on turbine looks like it runs quite hot, but that may be typical of JM 140's
Anyway, no harm on the duct drying out, its just running a little hotter than i'd say is normal. You could BVM Heat shield it, but I'd say no real harm
Dave
Yes, but all looks good. Tailpipe on turbine looks like it runs quite hot, but that may be typical of JM 140's
Anyway, no harm on the duct drying out, its just running a little hotter than i'd say is normal. You could BVM Heat shield it, but I'd say no real harm
Dave
#5561
My Feedback: (2)
I have the same engine with same setup. My upper duct cover also looks exactly like yours. I just used BVM Heat shield just like Dave suggested. I have had about 100 flights now without any problems. I believe (my guess and opinion) this happens because the Merlin is shorter with shorter tail cone then other engines. The EGT temps run in high 500s to low 600s without any problems. Most of the heat buildup is after shutdown during the cooling cycle and I use a fan to blow out the residual heat.
#5562
This will be my UF#3.... will be powered by a Merlin M200 like my first one (Black Eagle scheme) and MKS servos....
David
#5563
Having a hard time finding my invoice for a breakdown of the price. If memory serves it was around $350-400 to NH...meant ~$150-200 more than shipping from FL if coming from DW. Hopefully a little cheaper since you're on the West coast as it comes from Thailand!
#5564
My Feedback: (9)
I have the same colouring as well , been running merlins from day one , a couple of hot starts I think was the reason for my discoloration but nothing to worry over
Yes - the merlin end cone is some what shorter and the radiant heat after flight is another viable reason for discoloration
Yes - the merlin end cone is some what shorter and the radiant heat after flight is another viable reason for discoloration
#5566
Looked what just arrived! Won't be able to get into the build for about week unfortunately. Got a question for the guys using the Mp-Jet clevises with the M2 Secraft arms...did you use the M3 2mm or 1.6mm pin version?
#5567
I use these: http://www.espritmodel.com/clevis-th...-2mm-m3-6.aspx
The photo on the web page is of a Bobcat I built
I drill the hole in the servo arm slightly undersized so the pin is a very tight fit. This minimizes any slop over time. Also, make sure the clevis is aligned with the servo arm and/or control horn. Any misalignment will cause the clevis to open and you will not be able to install the E-clip.
The photo on the web page is of a Bobcat I built
I drill the hole in the servo arm slightly undersized so the pin is a very tight fit. This minimizes any slop over time. Also, make sure the clevis is aligned with the servo arm and/or control horn. Any misalignment will cause the clevis to open and you will not be able to install the E-clip.
#5568
I use these: http://www.espritmodel.com/clevis-th...-2mm-m3-6.aspx
The photo on the web page is of a Bobcat I built
I drill the hole in the servo arm slightly undersized so the pin is a very tight fit. This minimizes any slop over time. Also, make sure the clevis is aligned with the servo arm and/or control horn. Any misalignment will cause the clevis to open and you will not be able to install the E-clip.
The photo on the web page is of a Bobcat I built
I drill the hole in the servo arm slightly undersized so the pin is a very tight fit. This minimizes any slop over time. Also, make sure the clevis is aligned with the servo arm and/or control horn. Any misalignment will cause the clevis to open and you will not be able to install the E-clip.
#5569
Thanks
#5571
My Feedback: (27)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Grand Junction,
CO
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Has any one used the Pro-Link LGC15 Controller and Sequencer for Electric Retracts ? I'm trying to get it set up and wanted to see what setting would work best in my UF Thanks
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ctric-Retracts
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ctric-Retracts
#5572
#5573
#5574
#5575
Hoping to get a little work done today. 2 questions (with more to follow I'm sure!). First, I've read that the main gear typically requires "packers" between the retracts and the rails. I'm using the Electrons (retracts and struts), and am curious how to determine if it's necessary? Are you trying to make sure the wheel is flush with the fuse when retracted?
Second, when mounting the turbine (k140G2) how much space should be left between the exhaust cone and the beginning of the bell-mouth (specifically the former it's mounted flush with)?
Second, when mounting the turbine (k140G2) how much space should be left between the exhaust cone and the beginning of the bell-mouth (specifically the former it's mounted flush with)?