Ultra Bandit nose door actuator switch problems
David
Hope this make sense.
I am having issues with the nose door actuator switch on a BVM Ultra Bandit. I have installed the push button actuator in such a manner that when the nose gear goes up, it hits the push button and the nose door shuts. However, the stock push button (robart) is rather sensitive and it needs to be pressed exactly to a certain point, any more or less and it results in air leak. I had one gear up landing due to this and got out of jail free...Ever since then I have installed the dreamworks gear fail safe....however, I would like to do away with this push button. Are there any other alternatives?
That is how they fail (become too sensitive to side loads). Get a new one, they should not be so sensitive to misalingment
Also, whenever I use a button for doors, I put separate bottle for the doors, because those buttons are your weak link in the system
Hope this helps
Jack
Push button relocation to BVM'sretractvalve is ok but you still have potential for leaks in my opinion.For perfect & consistent operation I wouldswitch to a Behotec Retract/Brake valve. TheBehotec valve has been flawless for me and is hi-flow to handle heavy gear.
Just use the Behotec valve in reverse to close the gear door(s) instead of brakes.
Here's my old threadhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10924042
<u1></u1>BVM's button valve infohttp://bvmjets.com/JetKits/MiGe/Addendum082611t.pdf
Hope this helps...Scott<o></o>
See page 113 http://www.clippard.com/downloads/PD...Page%20113.pdf
Geoff..
You could use the bvm push button version which has a built in arm. That way the gear hits the arm and the has mechanical advantage on the button.
Here's a photo of it: P/N BVM5253 price 32.00 USD.
I am having issues with the nose door actuator switch on a BVM Ultra Bandit. I have installed the push button actuator in such a manner that when the nose gear goes up, it hits the push button and the nose door shuts. However, the stock push button (robart) is rather sensitive and it needs to be pressed exactly to a certain point, any more or less and it results in air leak. I had one gear up landing due to this and got out of jail free...Ever since then I have installed the dreamworks gear fail safe....however, I would like to do away with this push button. Are there any other alternatives?
Reading your post again, it seems like you are hiting the button with your landing gear. Is that correct?
If you are doing it with the gear, that might be your problem. That will be pretty erratic. the best way is to have the servo that moves the air valve, hit it with an extra travel. here is a video on how it is done with a DX18 on an UltraBandit
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQphSWqKRtU go to minute 1:30
Even if you don't have a DX18, look at the video as you will see the servo geometry to accomplish this
hope this helps
jack
Rcpete
HI, do your self a favour, and throw the valve in the garbage, as the retract system gets older and more sloppy, it does not make proper contact, and you loose all air, ask me how I know, then you have the pleasant task of landing with gear up, and then you have lots of hours of repair.
Rcpete
I'm not sure why people are saying the nose strut retracted position is inconsistent....this is BVM stuff! Wherever it retracts to, mount the button firmly against it and you're good to go.
From your description, you have a bad switch. Get a new one and you will be fine.
Craig
Craig, my install is an identical copy of yours.. and it leaks more often than not. I have set it up in such a manner that the button is completely pressed when the gear is up...but every now and then I find that the gear has not reached the exact same place to compress the button.
In that case, I would try the mechanical arm like Harley suggested. I would also make sure you are positioning the button with the jet upright, such that whatever "droop" there is in the gear is accounted for (i.e. with negative G it just pushes against the button, rather than away from it with positive G), if that makes sense.
I also still believe you have a bad button. I would get a new one regardless because it should not leak air under any circumstance.
Craig
You have a leaking button valve.
I have the same system as Craig's (but with the lever) in my FA-18F, on a main gear leg. It works perfectly, and the doors cannot close unless the gear is in the wells. I try to use the KISS principle. (Keep it Simple, Stupid).
Changing gear valves is a hassle, and many of us have found some of the electronic valves to be expensive junk.
Just install a new lever actuated valve in the same place, and the problem is solved.
I reworked mine by making sure the structure around it was solid and also used a softer endpoint.
I used two fuzzy sides of velcro(so they don't stick) so the the lever would be pushed firmly but could also not have too much push on it. This worked for my A10.
I had it hard mounted in my f18 on the nose gear and that worked fine too.
I did have one break (plastic arm) also.
My uB has the over travel trigger, this works well but also doesn't ensure that the gear are retracted before triggers the nose door.
I just have the gear servo slowed down so it works fine in the air.
Good luck
Dave