Is there any decent spry paints?
11-24-2013, 04:08 PM
#53
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Ok.. Im no expert on this stuff, but here's what works for me. Ive done a few things in the past so Im starting to get the hang of it.
First you start off with 800 grit. This is where you will screw it up or not! This grit is used to cut the paint down(clear coated or not) When ever possible work on the part near running water. Laundry room is best till the wife gets home. You want to constantly be dipping the sand paper into the water(I use warm water) or you can have a gentle stream flow onto the part. The instant you feel debris between the sand paper and work piece STOP. Run the paper under water and clean the part or you will drive deep scratches into the part. The first step it to remove the orange peel effect. You want to sand in circular motion but try not to concentrate to much on the edges all at once. Keep cleaning and drying the part. You will be able to see the low areas that will need more sanding. Once 95% of the shinny area is all gone, then you can clean the part and switch to the 2000 grit. and so and so on.
Keep in mind that the sand paper scratches the surface. If you press to hard with the 800 you will put deep scratches into the paint that the finer grits will have a hard time removing. When working with the 800 use very little pressure and let the paper do the work. Your looking for a good consistent dull finish. The better you do on the first sanding... the better the overall finish will be.
As you go finer and finer with the grit.. you will swear that its not doing anything at all. But it IS. You need to spend more time sanding than you did with the last grit. Dont cheat and skip a grit. Its a gentle step by step process that eliminates the scratches from the previous grit. Eventually you will get to the 12000 grit and at that point the paint will be shinning like a mirror. Apply 1 or 2 coats of Canuba was with UV protectant and your good to go.
I bought my polishing kit a long time ago and dont recall where. But you can get these kits at auto body supply stores.
Hope this helps
Trevor
Here's the stab all finished now. Total work time.. about half an hour
First you start off with 800 grit. This is where you will screw it up or not! This grit is used to cut the paint down(clear coated or not) When ever possible work on the part near running water. Laundry room is best till the wife gets home. You want to constantly be dipping the sand paper into the water(I use warm water) or you can have a gentle stream flow onto the part. The instant you feel debris between the sand paper and work piece STOP. Run the paper under water and clean the part or you will drive deep scratches into the part. The first step it to remove the orange peel effect. You want to sand in circular motion but try not to concentrate to much on the edges all at once. Keep cleaning and drying the part. You will be able to see the low areas that will need more sanding. Once 95% of the shinny area is all gone, then you can clean the part and switch to the 2000 grit. and so and so on.
Keep in mind that the sand paper scratches the surface. If you press to hard with the 800 you will put deep scratches into the paint that the finer grits will have a hard time removing. When working with the 800 use very little pressure and let the paper do the work. Your looking for a good consistent dull finish. The better you do on the first sanding... the better the overall finish will be.
As you go finer and finer with the grit.. you will swear that its not doing anything at all. But it IS. You need to spend more time sanding than you did with the last grit. Dont cheat and skip a grit. Its a gentle step by step process that eliminates the scratches from the previous grit. Eventually you will get to the 12000 grit and at that point the paint will be shinning like a mirror. Apply 1 or 2 coats of Canuba was with UV protectant and your good to go.
I bought my polishing kit a long time ago and dont recall where. But you can get these kits at auto body supply stores.
Hope this helps
Trevor
Here's the stab all finished now. Total work time.. about half an hour
Last edited by Vettster; 11-24-2013 at 04:16 PM.
11-24-2013, 06:46 PM
#56
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Its Rustoleme clear coat.
I just use a folded over piece of sand paper. It allows you to really feel the surface for that occasional grit that might get trapped and screw everything up.
Last edited by Vettster; 11-24-2013 at 06:49 PM.
11-25-2013, 11:15 AM
#57
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I am pretty sure body shop guys will hit it with polishing compound of different grades, and my understanding was that they can go from 1000-2000 sanding right to the polishing compound(s) and then a wax. But I have tried that on model surfaces(typical painted glass/airex/balsa etc) and it didn't work so well. Probably because I was afraid to burn the surface if worked too much with the buffer. So opted for a little finer grit before going to the compounds. Works okay.
07-04-2014, 03:32 PM
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Vettster. did you shoot a clear over the base coats just to even things out? If so, what did you use. I did that and found that the clear enamel lifted the color enamel, and that was after 8 weeks of cure on the base coat...
07-04-2014, 04:12 PM
#61
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I used Rustoleum clear with two coats for the most part. Have a look at post 42 Not sure why your color would lift after that much time.. are you using the same paint? Did you sand down the model before spraying the color?
07-04-2014, 04:35 PM
#62
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The color I was using was Rustoleum Engine Enamel 248947 Chevy Red-Orange as it was the closest to the International Orange for an Edwards F15 chase plane that I could find. The clear coat used was Rustoleum Enamel Gloss Clear. I misted on 5--6 coats before putting on a medium coat. The color started to lift after that coat. The color coat was sanded with 400 and 600 wet/dry paper used wet before the clear coats went on...
07-04-2014, 05:04 PM
#63
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wish I could help you.. All I can think off is it must have something to do with the chemical compounds of the HEAT paint. Also perhaps 600 grit is to fine for the paint to grip. I usually only finish sanding the primer with 400. Did you primer.. Primer is very important as there is a chemical bond between the primer and the color.
07-07-2014, 08:37 AM
#64
Blast from the past.
And I'll put in another plug for Rustoleum painter's touch. NOT regular Rustoleum, but painter's touch. Make sure to heat it up some how, I used hot water but then I put the paint in front of a space heater, as I found the bottom of the cans would rust after a day or two with the hot water. This makes the paint come out in a more controlled fashion all the way to the end.
All the good folks here on RCU helped me alot. I just wanted to see if I could do it and ended up saving $3k! What a rush to paint your own jet!
I painted my BVM F-100 from primer to clear with it. And I only used 400 grit on the primer. No sanding in between coats or colors.
I made a paint booth in my garage.
Have a beer and go at it.
And I'll put in another plug for Rustoleum painter's touch. NOT regular Rustoleum, but painter's touch. Make sure to heat it up some how, I used hot water but then I put the paint in front of a space heater, as I found the bottom of the cans would rust after a day or two with the hot water. This makes the paint come out in a more controlled fashion all the way to the end.
All the good folks here on RCU helped me alot. I just wanted to see if I could do it and ended up saving $3k! What a rush to paint your own jet!
I painted my BVM F-100 from primer to clear with it. And I only used 400 grit on the primer. No sanding in between coats or colors.
I made a paint booth in my garage.
Have a beer and go at it.
07-07-2014, 09:01 AM
#65
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The Hun looks great Ravill.. I too used the "heat the can method" I used hot water but then dried the can with a towel before spraying. Didnt want to get a water drop in the wrong place at the wrong time 
But for sure it made the paint go down much nicer. Its also a good Idea to warm the surface your painting.
But for sure it made the paint go down much nicer. Its also a good Idea to warm the surface your painting.
07-07-2014, 12:38 PM
#71
But I had my fire extinguishers in the paint booth with me and a large fan as an exhaust.
If I was out in the open, I'd have no problem using a space heater to warm up the paint. Unless you were spraying right into the heater, the chance for it to ignite would be negligible I bet.
07-07-2014, 02:27 PM
#72
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I understand the warming of the can, it's the space heater that's the concern. Most every can of spray paint I have has the warning "Danger Extremely Flammable, Vapors May Cause Flash Fire"
With that said, that's a great spray can application!
Don't want to detract with the safety aspect, it's the EH&S compliance officer coming out. Wouldn't want to see someone burn down the house!
With that said, that's a great spray can application!
Don't want to detract with the safety aspect, it's the EH&S compliance officer coming out. Wouldn't want to see someone burn down the house!
07-07-2014, 03:11 PM
#74
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Valley aviation has a great tutorial on painting.i did a giant space walker several years bacused duplicator sand primer then used Sherman Williams just because the color sampler cans were what i wanted.but still had to clear cote to protect from nitro fuel.most of my biggies just rustle I'm works well.on my war birds if the finish was bright I just sprayed water based min wax polyurethane and it dulled the finish .