Is there any decent spry paints?
10-24-2013, 05:51 PM
#27
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Rustoleum solid colors are great to use. There gas and glow resistant as long as you keep the plane clean. I just started using duplicolor aluminum engine enamel for my warbirds and putting rustoleum over it, works great. Also, the duplicolor engine paint really brings out the detail work that is put in the primer. Its the only aluminum paint that you can poor raw gas on and has no affect on the finish, but I don't recommend doing it.
10-25-2013, 05:27 AM
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I have been using spray paint from these people.
http://www.automotivetouchup.com
The 2k spray can urethane over there base color gives a mirror finish. After it is completely cured, I haven't had nitro affect it. I fly with 10 to 20 percent.
You can purchase the touch-up pen for quick color matching touch-ups..
http://www.automotivetouchup.com
The 2k spray can urethane over there base color gives a mirror finish. After it is completely cured, I haven't had nitro affect it. I fly with 10 to 20 percent.
You can purchase the touch-up pen for quick color matching touch-ups..
10-25-2013, 06:13 AM
#29
Is this maybe the writeup you were referring to?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...mpleted-2.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...mpleted-2.html
No the one I am talking about dealt with rattle cans specifically.
10-25-2013, 06:28 AM
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Krylon makes a triple thick glaze that leaves an excellent automotive-type glossy finish. I have used it on a few planes with excellent results.
http://www.krylon.com/products/tripl...l-clear-glaze/
http://www.krylon.com/products/tripl...l-clear-glaze/
10-25-2013, 10:46 AM
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Re the Krylon Triple Glaze I would need to see if it is UV resist(doesn't yellow and in order to know needs test of time over white base coat) and of course compatibility with urethanes or enamel under coats. Certainly cheap enough to test out though.
What I have used myself is spar urethane. While it takes forever to dry it is really nice stuff to work with. Completely safe water based clear.
What I have used myself is spar urethane. While it takes forever to dry it is really nice stuff to work with. Completely safe water based clear.
10-25-2013, 10:53 AM
#34
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Yes. AND... I have spray equipment if I want to give it a real paint job. But, I just want to do a quick clean up on this bird. I'm going to play with vector thrust... so there is a chance it won't live long. (lol) I just didn't want to to be ugly, and I've had issues with Krylon in the past.
Jefff: Thanks for the pics. I'm going to use Rustolium on it. I don't think it will be done before the weather turns cold(er)... but I will post pics when I'm done. FYI: I'm going to try to be out at the NightHawks in the next few weeks to talk with Billy about a few projects. Hope to meet you then.
10-26-2013, 05:23 PM
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Got to hand it to Rich, the Rustoleum Professional goes on pretty darn nice. It does NOT seem the same as the regular cheaper Rustoleum. Almost like it's been reduced a bit but still with good coverage however I did try it with a heated water bath. Very little orange peel. looking good so far...
10-28-2013, 03:43 PM
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So Re..Clear coat. Does anyone have a fave that does not yellow?
Ive just started using Rustoleum Professional and have to admit it is much better than paints I have used in the past. ie.. Krylon, Tremclad etc. I wonder how their clear coat holds up. I used satin finish on a camo scheme just recently and really liked its self leveling properties and finish..but cant tell if that would yellow(dont care with the camo) but now Im painting a plane very similar to Honda's that has a lot of white and dont want it to yellow.
In the mean time while I wait, I'll paint a white strip with the 3 different clear coat gloss paints I have and tape them to the window with the most sunlight. Maybe this will show results in about a week.
Ive just started using Rustoleum Professional and have to admit it is much better than paints I have used in the past. ie.. Krylon, Tremclad etc. I wonder how their clear coat holds up. I used satin finish on a camo scheme just recently and really liked its self leveling properties and finish..but cant tell if that would yellow(dont care with the camo) but now Im painting a plane very similar to Honda's that has a lot of white and dont want it to yellow.
In the mean time while I wait, I'll paint a white strip with the 3 different clear coat gloss paints I have and tape them to the window with the most sunlight. Maybe this will show results in about a week.
Last edited by Vettster; 10-28-2013 at 03:45 PM.
10-30-2013, 05:01 PM
#39
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So....
Today got into the 60 degree range... so I decided to start on the paint. And I have to say... the Rustolium Professional is GREAT !!!! It goes on thick, and has great coverage. I shot some white... and I was able to cover up yellow and red with 2 coats. Basically... I shot on a medium coat, and gave it 15 min... then shot on a gloss coat, and it covered everything. After it set up for a while... it laid out flat, and had a good gloss.
I didn't finish with all the paint... but I will post a few pics soon of what I got.
Today got into the 60 degree range... so I decided to start on the paint. And I have to say... the Rustolium Professional is GREAT !!!! It goes on thick, and has great coverage. I shot some white... and I was able to cover up yellow and red with 2 coats. Basically... I shot on a medium coat, and gave it 15 min... then shot on a gloss coat, and it covered everything. After it set up for a while... it laid out flat, and had a good gloss.
I didn't finish with all the paint... but I will post a few pics soon of what I got.
10-30-2013, 09:44 PM
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I read on another forum that once dry it is supposed to setup with better hardness over the regular Rustoleum as well. I think this Rustoleum Pro is good stuff.
If they made a clear as well in this line of paints, that would be perfect. But I don't see one.
If they made a clear as well in this line of paints, that would be perfect. But I don't see one.
10-31-2013, 02:33 PM
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Well its only been 2 days since I taped a white peice of plastic to the window and I can already see a difference between the Rustoleum Painter Touch 2X coverage and the Tremclad (I intended to use krylon to, but it was Semi gloss)
The Tremclad is already ever so slightly turning yellow.
The Rustoleum went on with a deeper and clearer appearance and also leveled the best(less orange peal) I cant see any change in the Rustoleum compared to the area with no paint at all.
The Tremclad was much thinner in appearance after drying and would most definantly require multiple coats to simulate the rustoleum with just one coat.
Would post pic, but at this point would not be noticeable enough on the monitor
Ive seen enough... Im going in with the Rustoleum to clear coat some parts. Will post pics later
The Tremclad is already ever so slightly turning yellow.
The Rustoleum went on with a deeper and clearer appearance and also leveled the best(less orange peal) I cant see any change in the Rustoleum compared to the area with no paint at all.
The Tremclad was much thinner in appearance after drying and would most definantly require multiple coats to simulate the rustoleum with just one coat.
Would post pic, but at this point would not be noticeable enough on the monitor
Ive seen enough... Im going in with the Rustoleum to clear coat some parts. Will post pics later
10-31-2013, 05:53 PM
#43
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Good info about the clear.
The other thing to mention since we may have found a spray paint worth using is to clean the tips between uses if you don't end up using the whole can. Clean the tip just like you would any real spray gun so it will shoot well next time around.
The other thing to mention since we may have found a spray paint worth using is to clean the tips between uses if you don't end up using the whole can. Clean the tip just like you would any real spray gun so it will shoot well next time around.
11-11-2013, 02:29 PM
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Hi Guys,
Just wanted to do a follow up on this.
As I said above... the Rustolium Professional paints in a spray can are great !!! They go on smooth... they have high solids, for good coverage... the nozzle is good... you can get a "Wet" coat without it running.... and it will lay out flatter than you would expect rattle-can paint to do. Even without a clear, or polishing... there is a good gloss to it. Also... the can is an "All position spray", so if you buy the spray handle ($3 at wal-mart) it feels like you are spraying paint with a basic gun.
I still need to repaint the nose black, and spray in some speckle paint into the radio bay... but here's a few pics of the patch work. It's not going to win any shows... but I don't think it's too bad for a couple hours work, and only $15 in materials.
Just wanted to do a follow up on this.
As I said above... the Rustolium Professional paints in a spray can are great !!! They go on smooth... they have high solids, for good coverage... the nozzle is good... you can get a "Wet" coat without it running.... and it will lay out flatter than you would expect rattle-can paint to do. Even without a clear, or polishing... there is a good gloss to it. Also... the can is an "All position spray", so if you buy the spray handle ($3 at wal-mart) it feels like you are spraying paint with a basic gun.
I still need to repaint the nose black, and spray in some speckle paint into the radio bay... but here's a few pics of the patch work. It's not going to win any shows... but I don't think it's too bad for a couple hours work, and only $15 in materials.
Last edited by Dr Honda; 11-12-2013 at 03:54 AM.
11-11-2013, 05:49 PM
#46
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Thanks.
Yes... a lot of it is the original paint. The jet threw a turbine wheel, and in turn, burnt the tails, and had a rough landing. (messing up the belly, and wing tips) You can see the before pics in on the first page.
FYI... the new TXT/graphics/checkers are vinyl. If you want to mask, and paint a second color, I think the can said 48 hr's... but I would wait 72 hr's to make sure it doesn't lift.
11-23-2013, 01:47 PM
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So... Is it worth the extra effort to wet sand?..... HELL YA!!
The left side of the stab is sand with 800,2000,3600,8000,12000 grit and one coat of canuba wax, versa the right side that is just clear coated. It looks ok from about 5' away(to be honest, I didnt do a very good job of the clear coat) but I just cant stand the look of orange peal. Its a dead givaway of a rattle can.
Check out the refection of the drawing on the wall.
The left side of the stab is sand with 800,2000,3600,8000,12000 grit and one coat of canuba wax, versa the right side that is just clear coated. It looks ok from about 5' away(to be honest, I didnt do a very good job of the clear coat) but I just cant stand the look of orange peal. Its a dead givaway of a rattle can.
Check out the refection of the drawing on the wall.
11-23-2013, 08:42 PM
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yes Sir. Ive finished both sides now. Going to do the entire model(I have to now 
)
Its really not that hard to do and when you consider the amount of work that goes into the prepping and taping etc.. the glazing is the easy part and has the best effect by far.
will post pics tomorrow.
)Its really not that hard to do and when you consider the amount of work that goes into the prepping and taping etc.. the glazing is the easy part and has the best effect by far.
will post pics tomorrow.