FB 1/7th F15 scale build
10-11-2015, 03:38 PM
#51
Started working on the rudders . it became clear I needed to install the lighting first to route the wires. White nav light on left side. Red anti collision light on right side. I had to make a lense for both sides also. So used the existing part on the vertical and heated up some plastic and pulled it over it. Then trimmed off the part on the vertical where the light mounts. Glued it all together and it came out well. Next up im going to take on these rudders.
Last edited by gunradd; 10-11-2015 at 03:46 PM.
10-11-2015, 04:35 PM
#52
Once I settle down and build a shop I dont plan to ever buy another jet from china painted, going to order all mine in just gray primer and do everything myself like this. All in all I would end up spending less time building because it is so much harder to go back and fix things once its finished than before. In my opinion anyway, looking good!
who are you going to get your decals and paint templates from?
who are you going to get your decals and paint templates from?
10-12-2015, 08:30 AM
#54
oh wow so you using the internal on all the surfaces minus the stabs? Will be interested to see how they work for you, I opted out of using these a few years ago because I thought it might allow flutter but that was just a guess.
10-12-2015, 10:05 AM
#55
I installed them on my F22 rudders and loved the internals. Put many fights on it and pushed it hard like I always did with that plane and they where fine. After I sold it something happened and the vertical peeled apart and the plane crashed. So was a little hesitant about doing this on the F15. When I installed them it had less play then the normal linkages so I have confidence in this system only thing I can figure is the servos where driven to far during set up on the F22 after I sold it and that would ruin the system the way it was set up and create flutter.
On the F15 I am going with the generation 2 of the RDS system Supposed to be stronger and better set up. So far really like it. I want this plane to be very scale so making the controls internal where a priority. After I test fly it and get it dialed in I am going to do all hidden linkages for the main hatch also. I dont want anything from the outside giving it away that its RC or at least do the best I can.
Also plan on balancing the stabs on this one. Probably not necessary but its easy to do and wont hurt anything. I dont plan on flying this airplane very fast and just want to fly it as scale as possible. That being said I will fly the snot out of it just not fast.
On the F15 I am going with the generation 2 of the RDS system Supposed to be stronger and better set up. So far really like it. I want this plane to be very scale so making the controls internal where a priority. After I test fly it and get it dialed in I am going to do all hidden linkages for the main hatch also. I dont want anything from the outside giving it away that its RC or at least do the best I can.
Also plan on balancing the stabs on this one. Probably not necessary but its easy to do and wont hurt anything. I dont plan on flying this airplane very fast and just want to fly it as scale as possible. That being said I will fly the snot out of it just not fast.
10-13-2015, 05:36 PM
#57
Got the rudders done and they have plenty of torque and no play. Also decided I didn't like looking at a plain airline for the brakes. So came up with the idea of using some shielded wire stripped and pulled over the brake lines to simulate braided hydraulic lines.
10-14-2015, 09:30 AM
#60
Nice work on the detailing. Love the brake line treatment.
I was inspired by Mick's posts on the fragile gear rotation mechanism. After taking a good look at it myself, I agree .. the "tab in slot" technique is simple and elegant for turning the gear as it retracts but looks way too weak to withstand the stresses of takeoff and landing especially on grass. I am trying a variant of Mick's technique (really just a different implementation of his idea) that is done from a block of 6061 T6 Aluminum and a 3/16 rod installed at the top of the gear leg. Still have to drill and counterbore for the rear retract mounting screws.
First, I drilled thru the "pinch collar" on the retracts and on through the top of the strut to install a 3/16" dia rod about 1.125" long. I ground down two flats on the rod, one on each end for about 1/4" with the flat facing back. Then, I machined a small block of 6061 Al to bolt onto the retract sides, and hold 2x 6-32 screws that play the same role as the screws on Mick's design .. they engage the flat spots on the 3/16 rod's ground areas.
At least on the bench it feels VERY rigid, and places all the stress of ground handling on the 3/16 rod and the Al block .. none of the shocks should stress the little tab on top of the strut that rides the track in the gear blocks.
We will have to see how it works but I think this may be a viable solution.
Also, inspired by Mick, changing over to a hydraulic drive for the gear and doors.. more on that if anyone is interested.
A few pics...odd that they come in upside down when originating on a phone..sorry about that.
Dave
I was inspired by Mick's posts on the fragile gear rotation mechanism. After taking a good look at it myself, I agree .. the "tab in slot" technique is simple and elegant for turning the gear as it retracts but looks way too weak to withstand the stresses of takeoff and landing especially on grass. I am trying a variant of Mick's technique (really just a different implementation of his idea) that is done from a block of 6061 T6 Aluminum and a 3/16 rod installed at the top of the gear leg. Still have to drill and counterbore for the rear retract mounting screws.
First, I drilled thru the "pinch collar" on the retracts and on through the top of the strut to install a 3/16" dia rod about 1.125" long. I ground down two flats on the rod, one on each end for about 1/4" with the flat facing back. Then, I machined a small block of 6061 Al to bolt onto the retract sides, and hold 2x 6-32 screws that play the same role as the screws on Mick's design .. they engage the flat spots on the 3/16 rod's ground areas.
At least on the bench it feels VERY rigid, and places all the stress of ground handling on the 3/16 rod and the Al block .. none of the shocks should stress the little tab on top of the strut that rides the track in the gear blocks.
We will have to see how it works but I think this may be a viable solution.
Also, inspired by Mick, changing over to a hydraulic drive for the gear and doors.. more on that if anyone is interested.
A few pics...odd that they come in upside down when originating on a phone..sorry about that.
Dave
Last edited by ww2birds; 10-14-2015 at 09:53 AM.
10-14-2015, 10:14 AM
#61
Dave fantastic work!! If I was going grass I would for sure do the same.
Talked allot to Mike about his (has over 600 flights) and he said he switched to a BVM high flow valve and the gear works perfect for him. Also he said the stock gear is fine for paved runways. He is running his all stock with no big issues and now with the high flow it retracts fine.
I used 3 large airtanks just for the gear and so far doing swings on the ground they slam up real hard. Pretty sure mine will be fine. If not I will also go with a high flow valve.
Dave post all the pics you can! Love seeing new ideas. And you could sell your mod for sure first class work.
Talked allot to Mike about his (has over 600 flights) and he said he switched to a BVM high flow valve and the gear works perfect for him. Also he said the stock gear is fine for paved runways. He is running his all stock with no big issues and now with the high flow it retracts fine.
I used 3 large airtanks just for the gear and so far doing swings on the ground they slam up real hard. Pretty sure mine will be fine. If not I will also go with a high flow valve.
Dave post all the pics you can! Love seeing new ideas. And you could sell your mod for sure first class work.
10-14-2015, 02:36 PM
#62
I originally set mine up with the Tom Cook Hi Flow valve and all 4mm tubing on the gear and dual XL Robart tanks that teed into a 4mm feed as close to the tanks as possible. I see that DW now has some new Tom Cook air tanks with built-in 4mm feeds. Nice.
I did not have any needle valves or restrictors .. and wow .. talk about slamming up and down .. it would about take your hand off! So I see what you are saying there.
I think it would have actually worked fine, but wanted to keep the high force but controlled motion .. and what's the point of 4mm tubing and hi-flow valve if you put restriction in the system. Also, to be honest, I was really wanting to play with a hydraulic setup .. and it does that .. uniform force and controlled motion. We shall see.
If the gear mod works I think it would be easy for FB to incorporate something like that into the stock gear .. mine came with a little sorta-triangular block with a screw in it mounted to one side of the gear .. I don't think it was good for much...
Dave
I did not have any needle valves or restrictors .. and wow .. talk about slamming up and down .. it would about take your hand off! So I see what you are saying there.
I think it would have actually worked fine, but wanted to keep the high force but controlled motion .. and what's the point of 4mm tubing and hi-flow valve if you put restriction in the system. Also, to be honest, I was really wanting to play with a hydraulic setup .. and it does that .. uniform force and controlled motion. We shall see.
If the gear mod works I think it would be easy for FB to incorporate something like that into the stock gear .. mine came with a little sorta-triangular block with a screw in it mounted to one side of the gear .. I don't think it was good for much...
Dave
Last edited by ww2birds; 10-14-2015 at 08:36 PM.
10-16-2015, 07:47 AM
#65
LOL I at least painted the tie wraps silver. I tried to make some Adel clamps like the real one but they where not strong enough so settled on this solution for now. Need to have this thing airworthy by 2nd week in November. I will detail it more after the maiden.
10-17-2015, 07:15 PM
#70
Post some pics!! LEt us know how it goes. Is anyone using the big stock tank in the nose besides me?
Bad news on the hidden linkages for the ailerons. I finished them after spending half the week on them but I was very unhappy with the torque and resolution of the servo. Would not make for a precision flying aircraft. So pulled out the linkages and went back to the stock way on the wings. I will leave the rudders alone they seem be fine with the hidden linkages. I used bent rods on the ailerons for more throw and that's what killed the torque.
Bad news on the hidden linkages for the ailerons. I finished them after spending half the week on them but I was very unhappy with the torque and resolution of the servo. Would not make for a precision flying aircraft. So pulled out the linkages and went back to the stock way on the wings. I will leave the rudders alone they seem be fine with the hidden linkages. I used bent rods on the ailerons for more throw and that's what killed the torque.
10-25-2015, 09:53 AM
#71
Been slacking on the updates but building like crazy. Pipe is coming from tam this week and will do the CG and turbine install and she is ready to fly. After maiden then paint and details will start.
Was able to install the exhaust nozzles all internal. Got the lights all done also.
Was able to install the exhaust nozzles all internal. Got the lights all done also.
10-26-2015, 04:09 PM
#72
New Tam pipe installed and perfect fit. Pipe was made for a 300 so I will be ready when it comes out.
Also painted and weatherd the nozzles. Did a test fit on the ordinance before starting to paint it. I came out tail heavy so going to install all batteries in the nose. Still need to balance stabs also.
Also painted and weatherd the nozzles. Did a test fit on the ordinance before starting to paint it. I came out tail heavy so going to install all batteries in the nose. Still need to balance stabs also.
10-28-2015, 01:29 PM
#75
Gun be careful using zips on cell type batteries, I have had them cut into the batteries over time. Jets have no vibrations so less likely but if could still cut or smash the corners. Looking good, I make all my leads as well and for some reason I have yet to invest in a nice soldering station.