Maj. Woody's Ultra Flash
04-22-2017, 01:02 PM
#301
Ok Like I said everything is homemade including the decals. Here is how I did that....giving up one of my trade secrets here LOL!! Get yourself a Sporty s Pilot Shop Catalog. This is like a Tower Talk for full scale Guys (I also have a full size Cessna so I get these catalogs all the time). These catalogs have a lot of images that will work great in your cockpit. Here I selected an image of a map. I cut this to size so that it fits perfectly in my lower MDF. Next get a piece of glass and put some double sided scotch tape on it. Apply the image to the tape and then cut the tape to the size of the image. Use a sharp razor to peel the "Decal" off the glass. Now apply the decal to the MFD. Next I cut out a piece of "Glass" for my MFD out of clear PVC. This is then glue in place and really gives the display a good deal of dimension and realism.
04-22-2017, 01:15 PM
#306
I cut some side consoles out of Plastic, painted them and glued them to the cockpit. This again gave the cockpit some dimension. Next I hand cut the knobs for the cockpit using the same jig I used for the MFD Buttons. The throttle, Canopy Ejection handle and all of the nomenclature were produced by hand as described above. The pilot and ejection seat were glued in place.
04-22-2017, 01:20 PM
#307
The cockpit tub was then installed into the canopy and secured in several locations with Goop. If needed I can peel off the Goop, remove the cockpit and make any adjustments to the cockpit as needed. No cockpit would be complete with the Majors name on the side LOL.
04-22-2017, 04:02 PM
#308
Moving on to the rudder. Attach a JR HD servo arm to your servo being sure to use a drop of CA on the servo arm screw. The servo is secured in the tray with the screws provided by CARF and again CA is used on the screws. I marked the fin skin and made my initial cuts for the servo arm as shown.
04-22-2017, 04:11 PM
#310
In order to get the 45mm rudder travel that I desired, I needed to elongate the slot for the servo arm / linkage much more than I cared for. If I used less deflection the slot would have been shorter. I was sick with the long slot since I was not planning to use the push rod fairing. If you look close you can see that I applied some G-10 material to the inside of the fin thus covering the slot from inside the fin. This is at the rear location and makes a neat channel for the push rod as it exits the rear of the fairing. Also of note is the safety wire I applied to the clevis. Tubing would have been too bulky under the cover.
04-22-2017, 04:15 PM
#312
The back side of the pushrod fairing and the fin are sanded with 240 in preparation for gluing. To avoid the risk of glue running and spoiling my finish I opted to use Goop to clue the fairing in place. Strong as a brick house with no drips or visible glue.
05-02-2017, 09:47 AM
#315
With the full bypass, what is to be done for a FOD? When I put the JetCat FOD in on the P-140, the frame of the FOD completely blocks off the bypass.
I am thinking screens across the air inlet. But I am not sure what type of screen to use and the best place to install it. Then, ... there is the method of installation. Don't want the screens to come free and wind up doing the damage that they are supposed to preclude. I am assuming that the air Inlets (versus where the inlets converge) is the best place for any screen as the airflow would be least constricted at the inlets versus someplace in the confluence. Any thoughts?
Anyone just dumped the bypass and ran the UF w/o it ? Then I could just use the JetCat FOD. I did BVM heat shield the fin and fuse after the exhaust cone. Do I really need the bypass? Probably not. Thoughts?
Re. the CG: With the CG set per the Manual's spec on the EZ Balancer, the nose seems to light. The nose bounces up off the ground on any bump in the taxi. I added a couple ounces of weight to stop that. But, how light is the nose on the manufacturer's CG spec? Maidened it last week. But the plane flipped itself over in a turn. Guess I was going too slow. Three mistakes high gave me ample room for a quick recovery. But, the flip caused me to NOT roll 'er over and check the CG. Now after thinkin' about all this for a week, I am a bit nervous.
I am thinking screens across the air inlet. But I am not sure what type of screen to use and the best place to install it. Then, ... there is the method of installation. Don't want the screens to come free and wind up doing the damage that they are supposed to preclude. I am assuming that the air Inlets (versus where the inlets converge) is the best place for any screen as the airflow would be least constricted at the inlets versus someplace in the confluence. Any thoughts?
Anyone just dumped the bypass and ran the UF w/o it ? Then I could just use the JetCat FOD. I did BVM heat shield the fin and fuse after the exhaust cone. Do I really need the bypass? Probably not. Thoughts?
Re. the CG: With the CG set per the Manual's spec on the EZ Balancer, the nose seems to light. The nose bounces up off the ground on any bump in the taxi. I added a couple ounces of weight to stop that. But, how light is the nose on the manufacturer's CG spec? Maidened it last week. But the plane flipped itself over in a turn. Guess I was going too slow. Three mistakes high gave me ample room for a quick recovery. But, the flip caused me to NOT roll 'er over and check the CG. Now after thinkin' about all this for a week, I am a bit nervous.
05-02-2017, 09:55 AM
#316
Nice work on the rudder Linkage and linkage cover. I had some trouble finding the right place for the hole and also ended up lengthening the hole significantly more than I initially expected. I tried a longer arm, but then the cover would not fit. Still though, I left the linkage covers off until I am sure I have things all dialed in. For me, once things are dialed in, then it is time to soldier the clevis and paint or cover the rods with CF, etc.
05-02-2017, 03:03 PM
#317
Hi Len.
Thanks for the compliment. I just finished the pipe, turbine and bypass install. I will post the details later in the week. For now I need to keep building. Anyway the FOD Screen that comes with my Cheetah fits inside the bypass with room to spare. That inlet joiner is a royal pain but I made a mod that allowed me to finally install it and remove it at will. I will cover that in the build.
Thanks for the compliment. I just finished the pipe, turbine and bypass install. I will post the details later in the week. For now I need to keep building. Anyway the FOD Screen that comes with my Cheetah fits inside the bypass with room to spare. That inlet joiner is a royal pain but I made a mod that allowed me to finally install it and remove it at will. I will cover that in the build.
05-02-2017, 03:52 PM
#318
I split the inlet joiner along the seam. Then I added a couple tiny bolts to hold it together at the ends. Then I put a strip of aluminum tape over the seam to ensure the bolts and nuts go nowhere and also, the tape holds the middle of the seam together. Not the prettiest mod. But it sure take the B.S. out of trying to get it in place.
05-23-2017, 02:18 AM
#320
Congratulations Scott!! You are incredibly smooth on the sticks and that Mig is just awesome. I hope to be flying soon. All I have left to do is install the brake / retract valves / servos and a few small details. I am way behind on this build thread but have been documenting the whole build and will update the thread when the jet is done. I just don't have the time right now. My goal is to be flying at Octurbofest in June.
05-23-2017, 11:35 AM
#322
05-26-2017, 02:29 PM
#324
I did some minor trimming to fit the Prolink Retract into the nose gear mount. I mainly needed to create clearances for the screws. Next I used a centering pin vise to locate the holes for bolts. You can see what a nice job this does centering the hole. From here I walk up the drill sizes slowly till I have the proper size hole for the blind nuts. I used Dubro 6/32 Bolts and Blind nuts since they are a bit more compact than what is included in the kit.
I then painted the entire inside of the Fuse Flat white as I usually do. Once the retract was mounted I used a length of thread to identify the center of the opening. I measured from this point to size the opening perfectly. This was especially helpful when trimming the nose gear door. I needed to be sure that the paint lines all lined up.
I then painted the entire inside of the Fuse Flat white as I usually do. Once the retract was mounted I used a length of thread to identify the center of the opening. I measured from this point to size the opening perfectly. This was especially helpful when trimming the nose gear door. I needed to be sure that the paint lines all lined up.
05-26-2017, 02:39 PM
#325
I mocked up the door using the piano hinge provided and I knew right away I had to do something different.This is why this build takes so long!! I opted for traditional gear door hinges and mocked up an assembly that allowed be to figure out the correct geometry and mounting points that would give me the tightest gap possible. I then transferred these dimensions to the fuse and gear door. Next I made a a lip on the gear door opening for the door to rest on ion the closed position. I used a couple layers of G-10 stacked up to to get the proper depth so that the door would sit flush when closed.