docgboy

I am expecting delivery of a new skymaster Hawk in the next week or so and was wondering if anyone has had experience in the build and setup of this model. I plan on using a Jetcat 120SE for power and Spectrum 9001 receiver.

blackrider_gr

I have the same Jet not build yet and i ll also use JetCat 120SE! I have done lot of research on the net and i havent found any article or built threat about the SM Plus Bae Hawk.
I will use PowerBoxed Royal 2x JR R900S receivers (i ll convert to 2.4 as soon i will feel confident).

RCI/Skymaster

My Feedback: (2)

Hello Guys..

Jeff here with Skymaster-USA

Our Demo hawk has a P-20 in it. we are also using the 2.4 JR system with the SmartFly EQ6. Its solid as a rock.

The jet fly's very well and the p-120 pushes it along great. Its a very stable flying jet.

Pay close attention to the Elvivator Servo setup. Make sure the servo's are not sitting on the pipe.

If you have any questions please fell free to ask.

www.skymaster-usa.com

blackrider_gr

Hello Jeff,
thank you for your reply, i have 2-3 questions about hawk,
Since i have 9xii JR do you suggest me to use Spektrum 2.4 module and 9000 receiver (i m aware that royal can handle very well 2.4 systems)
I m thinking of upgrading the Aluminum Tube with carbon tube (is it good or not recommended?)
Any inside info about the known issue with the main Tank hole that is positioned at the top 1/3 of it?

thank you again for the support!

docgboy

Thanks for the note Jeff. Is there some kind of modification that needs to be done to keep the servos from hitting the pipe? If you use the recomended 8611 servos is this still an issue? What happens if they do contact the pipe?

blackrider_gr

I assume you dont want to fly your Jet without elevator

Jeff a piece of fire blanket under the Servos will help?

RCI/Skymaster

My Feedback: (2)

I recomend mounting the evivator sero's on the top side of the servo trey, Not the bottom. This will give more clearance from the pipe. we used 8611 Servo's

Going with a carbon spar might save you a little weight but its no necessary to. If you use a carbon spar you shouldent have any radio problems from it.

I have been using the 2.4 system in my jets since the Spektrum DX7 came out. I have had 0 problems with it. We use the Spektrum 2.4 setup in all of our demo jets here at Skymaster-USA and we have never had any problems with the systems. We are using the new AR9000 receivers and the Smartfly EQ6 system.

I hope this helps...

cy paul

....

cy paul

Anyone know the dimentions of the aluminum tube? Much apreciated, thanks.

blackrider_gr

30mm diameter 69,5mm lenght

ECalderon

Hi guys:

This is the modification I did to my Hawk to solve the problem of the rubbing of the elevator horn against the aft fuselaje hatch and to solve the closeness to the pipe issue.

First I turned arround the elevator horn and trimmed the top and made new holes so tha the hole was almost vertical to the the pivot point of the elevator. This way you solve the rubbing problem and since the holes are closer to the pivot point the throw of the elevator horns are equal for up and down elevator. The reduction of the leverage from the pushrod, beacuse the hole is now closer to the pivot poin should not be a problem with strong servos (I'm playing it safe using two 8711, I know its probably overkill but I have peace of mind)

Then I eliminated the servo tray and made a new one and installed the servos facing each other flat on their sides. This way the servo tray protects the servos from the pipe and the geometry is better. The factory setup binds at extreme throws of the elevator since the axis of rotation of the clevis in the elevator horn and at the servo arm are 90º to each other. This way they are both paralel and there is no binding.

I must say that I copied this idea from ACRORED that is our builder master at our local field, from another Hawk he built.

The photos below should solve any doubts if the explanation above is not clear enough.

Regards
Eduardo

cy paul

Thanks for the info blackrider_gr..............

Regards,
Cy

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Jeff - Is the elevator servo tray supposed to have the servo slots pre-cut from the factory? Mine was not, seems like it should have been.

tp777fo

My Feedback: (28)

No, mine doesn't have slots for the servos. I am in the process of doing the mods as shown by Eduardo. The suggested geometry stinks, as the ball link attaches to the control horn 5/8th of an inch in front of the pivot line and flat doesnt work. The fuel system also sucks, the clunks enter the tanks from the top and will not allow fuel feed inverted. I am in the process of placing 2 Dubro 50 oz tanks in mine to replace the SM tanks.

MP3_tilaco

Do you have some pic?, I don't understand "evivator sero's". My Hawk elevator is like Eduardo's plane.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

OK another build question...I'm doing the rudder now, and will likely cut a square access hatch in the side of the vertical stab, then drop the servo in rather then use the access hole in the bottom of the stab. In order to hit the hinge line with a 90 degree angle, the servo needs to be angled (see photo). The issue as I see it is that the control arm on the rudder needs to go well behind the hinge line in order to hit a solid surface. Is there any issue with putting it behind the hinge line as the photo shows? Did any of you do this differently?

tp777fo

My Feedback: (28)

I put mine in the pocket as shown in the plans. The linkage doesn't set 90 to the hinge line but I put ball links on both ends to allow the wiggle. I dont think it will be a problem. My new problem is the cockpit kit. Initial look see shows that it fits like everything else on the airplane. More cuttin' and whackin'. Guys ***** about the purple jets but you know what....I never had to cut and whack on them....guess you get what you pay for.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Tom...yes, cutting and whacking is the way on this one. A nice plane but lacking in the engineering department. I'm still leaning towards cutting the hatch as nothing beats a straight shot and if done properly its really not so noticeable, going to cut it out tomorrow. I had another builder send me a good idea on the tanks and will post some photos later this week. The main tank goes above the intake on a shelf and the smaller one goes on the bottom in front of the intakes. The holes need to be patched up and re-done, but this way they lay flat and will not suck air when inverted. If anyone has a better way to do the rudder, please let me know. Thanks!

JPZ

Hello

This Hawk is for sale

JPZ

ECalderon

I installed my rudder using the hole in the bottom, without cutting a hatch, and the linkage was 90% and the horn hole in the hinge line. If you want I can post some pictures tonight.

Regards
Eduardo

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Photos would be great! I'm more concerned about mounting the horn off the hinge line.

docgboy

I would recomend having the hole on the horn in line with the hinge. That is especially important in the pulling motion of the servo. I know on mine there is a piece of balsa on the leading egde of the rudder and then a stiffener back where your horn is shown. I filled the area with hysol and put balsa fillers in each side of the horn, I think that will be suffient for the ruder

MP3_tilaco

Hi, my hawk has this box, Eduardo gave me the idea, it's work perfect...

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Perfect, I'm going to do basically the same install. Thanks for posting the photo!

ECalderon

Thats basically the same I did. Tilaco got the idea from me, the difference is that he used blid nuts and I used regular servo screws.