Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for that.. As I suspected.
I think I might stick to neat primer as the big tray would need a lot of prep work. You just saved me a load of work
Regards Al

Colin Gontier

Nice job boomerman - Very tidy install, especially so for a first timer. The Nano looks great in the USAF colours too.


Ali,

I coat all my trays with thinned resin and then paint them but to get that super smooth gloss painted finish takes quite a bit of elbow grease.

A few coats of gradually thinned resin with plenty of rubbing down between is what does the trick. Here's a pic of my Sprint install.




Colin

Colin Gontier

By the way, what are you building Ali ? Big tray must mean a big plane - Torus maybe?

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Hi Colin.
Afraid not. Maybe once I get this little lot out of the way... I am doing a PST Revision for a customer, then a Skymaster Viper ( although just helping a friend wi this one) Then the toughie with the big tray is a 1.9 M Futura. This is another turnkey build/set up and fly with a twist.. It has to be ready to travel out to Florida jets with me, So I can fly it and hand it over to the customer all set up and tested!
Oh and in the middle of this I have a very unique job slotted in for the Gadget show that involves 2 x P200's and the Guinness book of records! So if you need to get hold of me, it looks as if I am going to be in the workshop for the month of February
Regards Al

gooseF22

Colin, I might suggest that you move your Aux antenna further away from the radio tray, maybe all the way up in the nose, and another one way back in the belly. just a concern.. the more distance the better between satellites. I usually stick one as far forward up in the nose as possible, and the other antenna in my nano is all the way down in the left wing well by the boom. ensures better signal diversity..

Colin Gontier

Yikes, thats hell of a lot you've got on your plate ! I tend to build at night when I can get some peace and quiet. Drinking kero and eating pizza I can work all night Let me know if you need me to come over and give you a hand...

Colin Gontier

Hi Goose,

100% agree with you however...

The purpose of my post was to show how shiny my tray was - not to demonstrate the signal diversity in my installation

With that in mind you can't see the location of the second remote receiver in the fuselage and as for the first one, well my batteries are up front and I would generally not place remote rx's in a confined space surrounded by batteries. 44 flights on this airframe since 1st of Jan and no issues - now Im tempting fate arent I !!

all the best

Colin

Dave Wilshere

Tank, Clunk, M-Valve, Velcro left today for del tomorrow.
Why do you feel the need to have an air gauge? Will your air pump have a gauge? You cannot read the on board gauge in the air
It's just another place to leak...

Dave

boomerman

many thanks dave. i use a converted battery powered motorbike air pump and the pressure dial is set quite low.

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

Cheers Colin. I will send an SOS.. I guess you may be interested to see how a Futura goes together I can sort the Pizza, although I tend to need all the Kero for the planes, so you might have to make do with a cold Peroni!
LOL I have just noticed Boomermans custom model protector! There I was thinking it was the intro was the Boomer that was referred to as the baby.
Regards Al

Selleri

Mmmmmm, Peroni

The plane can't even roll off the protector, good idea!

boomerman

haha do you like it Al LOL, very usefull available from mothercare should put them on your website as the new protector for the boomerang LOL.

bobg

I like to use an onboard air gaugeto give confidence duringinitial flights and testing in the workshop ,it is easy to see if you have a leak , leaving the model over night to see just how good your system is .
Recently I had a leak which took abouthalf anhour to leave me with no wheels ,if I hadn't noticed the gauge abnormally low when refueling Icould have had an uncomfortable belly landing

BaldEagel

By far the majority of jets I have seen have air gauges in them, it seems to be a question of personnal preference, if you want to use them.

Mike

boomerman

just a quick note to say that many thanks to dave from motors and rotors, who offered to help me out in the nasty job of bending the wire for my robart spring air retracts.
many thanks dave for all your help and advice on my nano build!!

Dave Wilshere

Guy

Just hope they are the right length!

Pleasure

Dave

gooseF22

Very nice tray and layout!!

boomerman

well many thanks again dave!, my nano is pretty much done now!. just need to fit my rx and battery and ready to go! (when i pluck up enough courage!)
will get some pics when i can

bigplumbs

So now for the Million dollar question................. With a pull pull stearable nose wheel and quite a small slot to retract into how do you ensure that the wheel does not turn as you retract it and get jammed against the whole cover. Or will the airflow keep it straight ?

Dennis

BaldEagel

Deleated.

gooseF22

If its straight when it starts retract, as long as nothing binds the tiller it will retract straight most of the time. Some radios allow that to mix, and Andy low also has a gear control piece if you want, but I haven't had problems if you are off the rudder. If it doesn't retract, cycle it.

bidrseed2

My Feedback: (2)

I seem to recall reading somewhere that the eflite 60-120 retracts were maybe too deep and the steering arm on the nosegear would drop below adn outside the fuse.

Has anyone tried a set yet and got them to fit?

Dave Wilshere

Frank

Have you asked Andy seeing he collected that set up last week? I'm sure some guys on the original thread said that is what they were using.

Dave

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

I have always thought the push pull system is a bit crude, and find it hard to believe at the fact that retracts costing big money still have their steering done with two bits of string !

Retract noseleg units all should have a servo mount built into the retract plates, you can do your own direct linkage with a bit of thinking, the ones below work with a 3mm rod glued to the steering arm and a sliding aileron torque rod (remember them) type connector which allows for the push rod movement when retracted.
This method also keeps your nosewheel streight when retracted and no 'bits of string' to bind up and catch.

Use a MG mini servo for the smaller retracts, and those cheap TowerPro MG995 you see for sale on ebay are ideal for majority of nosewheel steering as they are high torque (not as high as they claim) and all metal geared and come with big strong arms.

bidrseed2

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Dave,
I've dropped Andy an email. Id be surprised if he's got that far yet, but there again he's got to be a faster builder than me.
Frank

PS i stand corrected, just got an email saying its been done. Mains were easy, nose gear, bit of a headache but Ill pop around for a look and report back