ira d

Bee should drop right in it's smaller than a P60, Also there is the Jet Munts VT80 with 18 lb thrust size I think a little smaller than the P60.

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Ah yes, forgot about the VT80. I don't know much about it, though.

BaldEagel

If its as good as the G90 it would be a great turbine, I bought a second hand one and had to send it back to JetsMunt and they repaired it at no cost and extended the guarantee, did not even charge for return postage, that was over three years ago and its been a very reliable unit, can't praise the service from Gasper at JetsMunt enough.

Mike

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Great info, thanks Mike.

Just trying to get options. Kingtech also has the K-60G, but Kingtechs seem to me to be on the large side as far as dimensions go. Not sure if it would 'drop in' fit.

It's just that the Bee and the P60 are so dang pricey. Heck, for what JC wants for the Bee, I could get a P100 and just dial it down...rather have the P100 anyway. And the P60 is only $200 less...[]

Sluggo

raptor30se

I am very happy with my Jets Munt VT80 powering my Nano. Very little trimming of the the engine mount to make it fit. Been flying it over a year, just be easy on the down lines to not over stress the airframe. Mine is a little over 12lbs dry. I am finishing a turbinator as well so plan on moving this turbine between airframes which is quite easy with just the fuel pump being external on this setup. Here is a quick vid of my nano powered with the VT80.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nh5i4cpcb4o


David

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Sluggo,
The JCSuper Bee was my 2nd choice for the Nano and a fellow jet jock has this engine installed in his Nano. It handles the extra power very well and is a bit lighter than mine with the FTE-500. However, my Wren 44K Gold is still lighter with all the ancilliaries- ECU, pump, solenoids, etc. Check the Gas Turbine Performance Comparisions in RCJI magazine and you'll note almost 1.5 lb differance between the Wren 44KGoldand the Super Bee. This is measured with the installed weight plus fuel for 5 minutes.
If you're seeking a larger, more powerful turbine then I suggest the Boomerang Sprint which is a better all-around fit.

Art ARRO

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Thanks Art. I had an Intro, and the Sprint is appealing. But actually I'm looking for a second "fun" jet that's relatively inexpensive (as jets go ), and the Nano seems like a good fit.

The P60 would be a no-brainer I realize, just looking to see if there's something that might give a great vertical up-line that will fit and not require a bunch of cutting and pasting

Sluggo

Gordon W

I've fitted a Spektrum ASI to mine, which has a Wren 44 Gold for power. On Sunday I got around to checking the max speed attained in a terminal velocity dive from a great height - a whole 144mph

Of course that number could be inaccurate. Normal max speed achieved whilst flinging it around, doing the huge variety of aerobatics this fun ship can do, is about 120mph.

It'd be interesting to know what speed the 80N etc turbines can achieve in a power dive - has anyone measured it?

Gordon

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Now, I'll freely admit I'm not looking at the Nano for speed (the Elan is a bit of a different story)

The power I'm looking for is to have nice big speed-maintaining moves in the vertical. I just wish Wren had something between the 44 and the 80. Seems like one is not enough, the other is too much.

Sluggo

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Sluggo,
I stepped down to my shop and measured the width of the turbine bearers on my Nano and read 3 5/8" or 90 mm.
I'd check with Jet Centralon the case size on the Super Bee but feel that it would be an easy fit in the Nano. The all-up weight of the Bee is probably less than the P-60 especially if Li Pos are used for the ECU battery.I'm sure you would be satisfied with the vertical performance of the Nano with Super Bee power.
I can see how you may not like the Sprint with the USAF markings. My Nano is the Navy scheme and I've pasted "FLYNAVY" vinyls on the horizontal stab and wing along with USNFighter Weopons School decals on the vertical fins.

Art ARRO

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

LOL...indeed, the Navy Nano is the one I have my eye on!

Thanks for the dimensions. That is what I need to know. And yes, the thrust spec on the Bee II looks like it would work very well!

Sluggo

Gordon W

Yup, it's a bit of a sluggard, but outstandingly aerobatic nevertheless I didn't buy the model as a speed wagon.

I actually fitted the ASI telemetry system to the Nano to see if it would assist in finding a suitable landing approach speed, and it works like a charm.

Initially I estimated an approach speed of 35mph, but the low-speed alarm didn't sound until the wheels were on the runway. So I re-set the minimum speed alarm to 40mph, which turned out to be a tad too fast, and I now use 39mph as the warning speed.

The alarm (I'm using the Tx vibrator) initially gives a quick burp whilst turning finals, encouraging me to lower the model's nose a tad, and then once on finals, I raise the nose to get the alarm sounding all the way to the deck. I'm actually quite surprised at the approach speed, which is faster than I was expecting, especially as the instruction booklet claims a minimum airspeed of 18mph!

It's interesting to have the low-speed alarm sound at the apex of the biggest loop the Nano will achieve, and of course it always sounds during stall turns. Rather surprising is that it doesn't sound during spins.

The next move will be to equip my Wren 44-powered Fox Composites Hawk with ASI telemetry, which is a far more slippery customer and needs much more concentration during the landing.

It'd be nice if the telemetry had a voice function to call out the actual airspeed.

Gordon

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Is the JR DS821 (JRPS821) servo acceptable for use in the Nano?

Sluggo

BaldEagel

Yes, in fact Ali uses and recommends them for the Sprint.

Mike

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Very good. Thanks for the info, Mike.

Sluggo

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Alright, let me fess up right up front that this is a bit of a lazy-man request. My Nano is on the way, so I need to order the things I'll need to complete the jet when it shows up. But, I'd like to try and get it all in one order to minimize time waiting on packages to arrive.

I already know what servos I want to use, as well as UAT, fuel tank, batteries, switches, etc. The stuff I can't predict are things like servo extensions, as I'm not sure what lengths to get without the jet in front of me. Also, any suggestions on linkages, control rods/horns, steering, etc. would be helpful. I saw Tam's post about a direct steering setup vs a pull-pull system. That looks nice, but has anyone tried it?

Anyway, thanks in advance for help here.

Sluggo

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Sluggo,
All the required lenghts of the Nano's servo extensions are listed on Page 2 of the instructions. I used a mix of 12", 18",24" and a 36" extensions from MAXXProducts Intl. These were 20 AWG with twisted wires and quality gold pin connectors. You can sub substitute JRHD gold extensions except for the 36" oneused for elevator, especially if a digital servo is used here. I chose a JR 8261 for this location but used med-sized everywhere else. Nose gear steering astandard analog Expert (JR-537 equiv.) type.
All linkages are Sullivan 4.40 with Z-bends at the servo end and a Sullivan Gold Link clevis at the moving surface. Control horns are long 6.32 machine screws ( 1 1/2" or 2"lenght)with Du-Bro HDE/Z Adj. Horn Brackets for 6.32, Cat.# 559.
Retracts are Spring Air with BVMAxles, 2 1/4 "wheels and brakes. Nose gear is a Belly Mount driven by a pushrod- no cables. Keep the heavy stuff (UAT/Airtrap, etc) up front for balance.
Advise you to go to Dave Wilshere's shop, www.motorsandrotors.com for excellent hints on the Nano setup. Good luck with all this.
What turbine did you select for your Nano?

Art ARRO

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Thanks Art, great info! This morning I managed to download a copy of the Nano manual, so that answered a lot of my questions as well.

I went with the Kingtech K60G. I like the simplicity of the installation and the kero-start. Hopefully it will be a good choice!

Sluggo

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Sluggo,
The new Kingtech K60G will bean excellentmatch for the Nano.
I just checked Dave Wilshere's website and it seems that he's removed his product info on the Nano since he no longer stocks this model. You may want to search back in this thread for any additional info on the model.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Art ARRO

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Yes, I looked at Dave Wilshere's site, and figured it was just me

The jet should arrive tomorrow from Trish, the engine on Friday. I've got most of the accessories ordered (tanks, servos, gages, switches, etc.), with the servo leads to go.

I appreciate the 'second' on the K60G. It looked like a good fit to me, with P60 power/weight, and P100 installation simplicity/internal kero-start. Barry was super-easy to work with, and shipped the engine out right away.

Thanks for the good wishes, and I'll keep y'all updated!

Sluggo

Jim W.

Art,
How did you work out the Spring Air nose retract steering using only a single push rod (no cables). I'm using ProLink struts w/Spring Air retracts and never did figure out how to use only a single push rod for the steering. Any suggestions
would be great and photos would help also. Thanks

Jim

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Jim W.,
I don't have a digital camera and am unable to post any photos ofa Spring Air install in my Nano. However, I will try to explain the setup as best I can. Note that this is with the Nano inverted with the nose gear cover plate (hatch) removed. I selected a Spring Air belly mount nose gear retract with their stock 5/32"coiled strut and a Kraft 2" wheel mounted to a Goldberg Axle. The axle is 4 1/2" below the fuselage when extended.
The retract unit is mounted to a pair of 3/8" x 1 1/2" maple rails made from motor mount stock (double 2 pieces of 3/8" x3/4" together) andepoxied to the ply floor beteen Formers 2 and 3, butting up against Former 2. Former 1 is assumed to be the rear of the nose block. This places the retract unit as shown on Instruction 21 of the Nano Manual. A 2.56 pushrod is installed to the Spring Air Steering Arm bracket with a solder Kwik Link. The rod goes back to E-Z Just Connector mounted on a short servo arm. I used a standard analog NEH-531 (JR-537 equivalent) servo which is mounted to a side-mount tray. The tray is epoxied and screwed to a 1/4" ply plate which is glued to the fuselage side just forward of Former 3..To keep the steering arm bracket centered on the shaft during gear retraction , I installed 2 springs cut from a retractable ball point pen. Solder a washer on one end of the shaft to keep the spring in place, the other spring is retained by the steering arm. The servo and linkage appear on the RIGHT with the model inverted. It all fits and works quite well fornumerous flights. You'll have to Dremel grind an opening for the wheel when retracted. This is in the ply plate between Formers 3 and 4.
One hint is to use a short 4.40 hex head screw on the E-Z Just conector to really bite down on the pushrod. The EZ-Just allows for simple adjustment of the linkage for straight steering. You can PM me for any clarification on all this.
Good luck on the install and you'll really enjoy flyingyour Nano.

Art ARRO

VF84sluggo

My Feedback: (55)

Ok, my Nano arrived yesterday! Going to start with my absolute LEAST favorite thing to do (and thus get it over with), and that's doing CA hinges

It's not the CA hinge per se, it's the thin CA...no matter how hard I try not to, I always seem to over-do it and end up with CA run ot two. I'll try and be more careful today.

I need to read through this thread for tips, but one quick question: when drilling the 3mm hole for the control surface bolt/horn, I didn't see any recommended distance from the leading edge of the control surface for the hole location. Any guidance here?

Sluggo

BaldEagel

The attachment hole for the push rod on the horn should be over the centre of the hinge line, the bolt holes are then positioned accordingly.

Mike

Art ARRO

My Feedback: (5)

Sluggo.
The hole for the airbrake/flap horn should be drilled approximately 1/2" REARWARD of the hingeline and raked back to allow for maximum deflection of this surface. Also, the hinge slots for the rudders can best be cut with the corner of a razor saw as there is a plywood corein the rudders. You can also use a thin rotary saw or cutoff wheel in a dremel rotary tool turning SLOWLY. Watch your fingers with this step though. Finally, use one of those finely tapered spouts for the thin CA and have some solvent or debonder soaked tissue to quickly wipe off any excess CA from this step.
Good luck "building" this ARF.

Art ARRO