andretorres89

My Feedback: (1)

That' scheme looks fantastic. That was going to be my second option. I went with the RSAF camo. I ordered mine with Dirk from kingtech; those guys over there provide great service!

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

Hey guys,

What size air tanks and how many are you using? I want the largest I can fit.

Thanks!

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

Also ordering my pilots. Do I want the 15" or the 12"? Does anyone have any pics?

http://www.warbirdpilots.com/category_s/1826.htm

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

12" will be way too small!!

i have them in my 1:5.5 hawk and they are too small for it!

Ths kd

dave

dubd

Skymaster offers 1/4 pilots that are the perfect size. I had 2 in my Saudi Scheme Hawk. Warbirdpilots.com has 1/4 pilots as well, but I haven't seen them in the cockpit of the Hawk, so I can't say if they look appropriate. I have the new SM T-45 on order and I'll be using the SM 1/4 scale pilots.

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

A couple questions:

1. What size air tanks can you fit in the suggested location?

2. What size servo arms are used?

I am on the road for a few days and cant measure anything and want to get some stuff ordered so it can be at the house when I get home.

Thanks!

helifox

1. I use 2 XL Robart tanks for gear and gear dors, and one standart for brake (just decide not to use air brake and install my P-140rxi at the tail (all servos I move close to CG)
2. 23mm Secraft JR servo arms

.


The horizontal stab will work like these:

The turbine will install like these:

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

I am getting ready to hinge my flaps and the slots are way off. They are a 1/2 inch too far aft. I can move the front of the hinge forward, although you end up having nothing to glue to forward of the block around the original opening. However, moving the hinge on the flap itself moves it really close to the leading edge of the flap. On top of that the slots are pretty sloppy width-wise. Not real happy with how they are set up.

Are you guys just glueing the aft hinge in at an angle? Does it affect the geometry doing this?

In the Haze

Get the front one to fit all the way down, flush with the notches of the hinge on the wing surface and by doing that it moves the hinge point back and the rear one should fit the same, just clean up the slots on the wing so they fit. The hawk and PC21 have the same setup and it works. Just keep the back of both front hinges the same distance from the rear of the wing. Have a look through the PC21 thread as well for confirmation of what I hope I described ok.

The Hinge covers are another story though, but with lots of patience the end result is worth it.

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

Looking at this photo they didn't line the hinge point up with the hinge line. Is this acceptable or should I move the hinges forward?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...0&d=1434395679

The photo attached is the picture taken from the Hawk manual. This is what the manual says. It also appears they moved the hinges forward. Not sure why the jigs haven't been fixed.

In the Haze

That PC21 pic is correct. The hinge line is not the front of the flap. Keeping the rear of the front hinges the same distance from the rear of the wing (i.e. front of the flap) the hinge line geometry is correct on the pivot bolts, which all works out fine.

rcjetsaok

My Feedback: (7)

Ok guy's,... Let's talk wing fences... Who is useing them and your thoughts ?? The ones that came in the kit we're building now won't even go around the leading edge... My thoughts are that they sent the fences to the 1/5.5 kit accidently.. Any of you guys have this problem ? And back to my main question, are the needed for stability and tip stall ?? I have always been told that flying a Hawk without fences is like useing razor blades for toilet paper !! I had the the 1/5.5 kit, key word is HAD.. So I think there is truth to the myth... Please tell !!!




Thanks,

Dan

Gary Jefferson

My Feedback: (167)

I know of at least two Hawks flying without wing fences, mine being one of them. I put about 30 flights on mine last year without any problem. They are not necessary.

jsnipes

My Feedback: (3)

Peter Goldsmith showed me during an event last year how if you sight down the wing the Hawk has a bit of wash in built into it so if you set the ailerons just a tad higher than the flaps (flaps up, ailerons neutral) you end up with slight wash out which will help with the tip stall tendency. I'm building the 1/3.65 but I think the same would apply. Thought I would pass this along because I never would have seen or thought of this. JS

rcjetsaok

My Feedback: (7)

Jamie,

I have heard of this now that you mention it... A very slight full time crow in essence... How much are you planning to use ?? I would think the thickness of the aileron at the flap joint up wold be enough.. Thoughts ?

Dan

jsnipes

My Feedback: (3)

Dan, That's about the amount we discussed and I plan to try first. Trailing edge aileron thickness, of course.

JS

rcjetsaok

My Feedback: (7)

Awesome !!! Still building here,... Let me know what you think after you try it !!

Dan

helifox

As I did write the turbine was move from standart position to the tail. To minimize ballast at the nose all servos (elevator, rudder) installed close to CG


http://youtu.be/bACudnnu9Xs All up unpainted weight wit all scale detals now ( except fuel in main tank) is 15,5 kg

TeamMuir1

My Feedback: (-1)

I have ordered a BAE HAWK 1/3.65 The Biggest of the BIG skymaster HAWKS
it will be on next container....
after reading some of this thread Iam now understanding that this is NOT
the Biggest Hawk thread.. is there another thread that is the HAWK 1/3.65 ?

jsnipes

My Feedback: (3)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...awk-100-a.html

TeamMuir1

My Feedback: (-1)

http://jets.chiefaircraft.com/skymas...le-models.html

there web page states.. 1/3.65

just stating what they have on the web page

rcjetsaok

My Feedback: (7)

This thread was started over 7 years ago... The new 1/3.65 Hawk wasn't even a gleam in Anton's eye... 7 years ago the 1/4.75 was the "large" Skymaster Hawk. Time to start a new thread on the "New" large Skymaster Hawk..

Dan

IFlyEm35

My Feedback: (5)

Three questions:

1. How are you guys glueing the fences on?

2. Is there hard wood mounting points in the wing to screw the pylons to?

3. How are you transporting the fuse in a trailer?


Thanks!

K.O.

My Feedback: (16)

I'm not going to use the fences. I'm afraid they will get damages in and out of the wing bags etc. I don't believe they will affect the flight much.

There are hard mounting points in the wing. Look for small dimples or indentations on the bottom of the wing. They can viewed form either the gear mounting area or flap servo opening. I used 4-40 threaded inserts on the mounting points. My mounting points did not align up with the pylons so I re drilled the holes in the pylons.

As for transporting I made a tray the size of the fuselage and I'm using 3 " foam, leaving an opening for the ventral fins, then strapping the fuselage to that.
FYI I have not transported mine yet and the maiden will be in a couple weeks.

K.O.

jws_aces

My Feedback: (33)

This is the bigger. http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/tomahawkhawk100.html

The biggest that is on the market. Not a Skymaster or Comp arf.. Scott Marr flew his a First in Flight last year and it is BIG!!!



I have seen a video of a 1/3rd MK66 Hawk that is bigger but I don't think you can purchase it in any form kit or plans.