Alex48

Hi Guys

I've just started putting one of these together for a customer, if anyone's building one feel free to jump in and share your experiences.

The model is a Hawk T2/100 in RSAF markings, the same as shown in the picture. Power will be a JC 160SX, power box and JR radio. Drop-able ordnance with some scale additions will hopefully really bring this model to life.

Cheers, Alex

readyturn

My Feedback: (9)

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Thanks
Rick

Alex48

Here's a few pics of the kit. There are a few little things that need sorting but when isn't there? It's one of the most impressive ARTF's Ive seen, paint finish, gear door fit, mouldings all to a very high standard and did I mention those oleo's...........................The only big thing wrong with the model is that it's not mine

The first thing I did was take the gear out as this needs to be painted, I'm also going to replace the tiny main gear door cylinders with some heavy duty one's and then repaint inside the gear doors to match accordingly.

Cheers, Alex

DelGatoGrande

My Feedback: (23)

sweeet[8D]

SAP_2000

Also looking forward to the build.
I have just placed an order for one and some waiting to do...

dubd

SAP_2000, which scheme did you get?

Alex48

It's been a slow start with this one, just Needed to sort out a few issues with the kit first. I don't believe these problems are representative of this model generally. The reason I say that is thus particular model has been on display in various places, packed and unpacked a few times with the inevitable dinks and people handling it where it shouldn't be handled etc... It was also one of the first large hawks to be produced.

I set about dismantling and degreasing the oleo's and wheels. These really are a work art better than anything else Ive seen from these eastern manufactures infact I think the machining is better than the Sierra stuff I have.

I wanted to start on the wings which is where I discovered the first little problem. The flap hinges have had their slots pre cut. In this case the slots are perpendicular to the trailing edge which is wrong. (The pics in the instructions show the slots cut correctly) They need to be in line with the aircraft's longitudinal axis. If I were to install them in the pre cut slots they would all be angled out board. The first two pictures Ive attached should explain things. The slots have been filled with a epoxy/micro balloon slurry ready to be wet sanded flush and new slots cut. Once the hinges are installed I'll touch up the paintwork visible when the fairings are on. The flap hinges were missing and are being sent but as I said this things been all over the shop so it's not surprising things are missing. I then moved onto the ailerons..........Ideally I would like the linkage perpendicular to the hinge line but because this is faired it's not possible so I'm awaiting some heavy duty ball links so there will be no binding with the linkage off set slightly.

Alex48

The drop tanks supplied will be made droppable, Ive used a BVM EZ drops and adapted the pylons and drop tanks. The pictures should explain things. Ideally I would have had the EZ drop in the centre of the pylon. Because of the internal structure I had to move it forward. I devised a system where you slot the tank in and push back thus fixing the tank in place. Its held like this by the airflow when dropped it just falls and pulls itself out of the rear lock.

There will be four airlines exiting the wing so 4 BVM EZ airs will be used making rigging a breeze.........

Alex48

The elevator servos are mounted at the very back under a shroud. Currently there's no support for the servos just the 0.5mm or so of glass. Using some ply I made a plate that's epoxied under the area the servos will be mounted. I've also added some carbon sheet to stop the L brackets digging in which could alter the geometry creating a small amount of binding. Overkill I know but I would prefer it this way especially on the stabilizer! plus I'd run out of G10 so carbon it was.......

With this done my attention turned to the stab bearing block. I've replaced the bolts with high tensile steel and used aeronuts as these are far more tolerant to temperature. (The pipe sits near to these fixings) I've used carbon sheet on the inside to avoid the washers pulling into the ply and creating slop. The fittings for the stab were again changed to high tensile steel...........

There's lots of hardware missing so I'm using my own nuts and bolts linkages etc... as I said this model had previously been unpacked and put together for static a few times so probably why some bits have disappeared....

Cheers, Alex

Alex48

Final job for the night was to install some larger rams for the main gear doors. The provided rams were too small for this sort of application....

Alex

pilot tw

Hi, Dubd

see the attached picture that SAP_2000 asked this color scheme ,,

Best regards

Anton

bang68

Hello !

Anybody who knows the dimensions of the tub dimensions for the cockpitset fot this BAe Hawk large ?

Any info preciated :-)

Peter B

pilot tw

Hi, Alex48

Thank you for your commented, Sorry for my workers made this mistake, the flap hinges slots was wrong. I just check my first products , the flap hinges slots was correctly, So, I will ask my workers for modify these slots again,

Best regards

Anton

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Wondered how long that would take

Now to find an equally rare scheme for my Tomahak Hawk.....

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Hey Alex, it looks to me like with your pylon dropping mech you will end up ruining either your pylon or you rear tab. I am assuming that the airflow is in the direction of the blue arrow. When you release the tank it is going to want to pivot on that rear hook and the drop tank will be pushed up int the pylon (yellow arrow). I would think you would want the hook farther back (red circle), no? I am just thinking that with all that leverage on the tank and pylon, one of them is going to give, especially at 100+ mph.

Alex48

Hi Anton, no worries regarding the flaps, its good to do builds on here as the manufactures get to see the little problems with the kits. Good to know your watching and making alterations to the production models........

Hi Ianober, I wondered if someone might comment on that. Your right in what you say it would be better to have the slot further back. I'll post some more pictures when I get home (In Germnany atm) that should show things a little better. The back part of the tab on the tank is round as is the slot in the pylon (when looking from the side). The slot is much deeper than the tab too. It has enough room to pivot slightly from the very back of the pylon and then fall away even with pressure on the tank. Ive also built a weak point into the tab so if it did hang up this would just break leaving the aircraft flyable and the tank needing a minor repair. The pylon and tank were not designed with this function in mind so I'm working around thier internal structures and trying to make use of what's already there. Thanks for commenting on it, any help is very welcome....

Hi Marc what about painting your new Hawk red

Cheers Alex

Alex48

Hi Peter will measure those when I get back for you...

Alex

Alex48

Does anyone have a good picture of the retractable landing light in the nose wheel well? I have a few from the front but I#m after a view of it from behind.

Thanks Alex

charlyjet

Hi Alex, one pic nose landing gear light

http://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/...8_20_of_29.jpg

Alex48

Thanks, some good pictures there........do you guys think the light is attached to the right gear door? I was going to make it retract from the top. I'd like it to be as scale as possible.......................

Cheers, Alex

Jet Power

This is big.....

Alex48

Right then................Ianober's post got me thinking so I made few calls and managed to get 30 minutes wind tunnel time late this evening. Couldn't take any photo's or Videos due to security (more likely he didn't want his boss to find out what the tunnel had been used for tonight lol....), shame they would have made interesting watching.

My system worked up until 110mph then it just broke the weak link I'd made, we tried three times 110 was definitely the magic number. So I'll have to do a little bit of redesign to the pylon and tank then make the rear lock position as was suggested. This is what happens when you try and avoid a bit of work you just make more for yourself........anyway thanks for the prod!

Cheers, Alex

Ali

My Feedback: (5)

WOW, Impressive!
I cant say I have ever had a builder test one of his ideas in a wind tunnel! I hope thats not going on the bill

Alex48

Hi Al

lol........I wasn't going to but now you've mentioned it......................

Hi Pete those tub dimensions are 5" deep 5.5" wide and 10" long these are maximum dimensions as the tubs taper in.

Cheers, Alex

Jack Diaz

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Alex:
I am about to maiden mine. Great kit. No complaints. Paintwork is outstanding.


In reference to your observation regarding the angle of the flap hinges (slots pre cut perpendicular to the flaps), I observed same thing on mine.
Now, be aware that there is almost no clearance between the flaps and the ailerons and fuselage. Also, the flaps are in close contact with the fuse and the ailerons during almost its entire deployment. I simulated the deployment of the flaps with the hinges aligned with the fuse centerline, and they wouldn't move unless you shorten them big time.
Also, the servo to flap linkage will have a side movement that will require ball links (I am not sure if they will fit). Same concept applies to the aileron linkage if you align it with the fuse centerline.
I am not saying it can't be done as you are suggesting. Just try it before doing anything permanent.
I ended up installing them as they came. Works great. The fairings orientation does look weird, but only when you peep underneath..... LOL.

(Probably on the full size the hinges are perpendicular with the flaps, and the fairings are somehow aligned with the centerline (just guessing)).

On another subject: each wings is held in place by a screw that joins the fuse with the root rib. The main gear is massive, and when dropped tends to pull the wings outwards really hard (by inertia, when the gear stops suddenly in the down position). This outwards force is transmitted to the screw. My suggestion is to reinforce the fuselage with 1/8 ply at the screw location; and reinforce the root rib with 1/4 ply joining the upper and lower skins with the rib at the nut location (glued perpendicular to the rib). To visualize what I am saying, drop the gear with the wing installed without the screw, and see how the wing gets shot out....

To avoid the gear to drop so hard, and since I am using the EV5UPRO valve (no individual air flow control), I did the following:
-Install a check valve in the gear down line, oriented so that it stops the flow of air towards the gear cylinders.
-Bypass the check valve with a Dreamworks flow control valve, and adjust the flow to the minimum necessary for gear deployment.
-At the gear up command, the cylinders pressure will return via the check valve.
BTW, I understand you need over 110 psi to get the gear up in flight!!! I will let you know soon.

Last for now: if you are going to work or assembly the plane on a cradle, reinforce the area of contact with the cradle with carbon cloth and 1/4 ply. The bottom front part of the fuse is very soft and will deform and crack.

I almost forgot: "Reinforce the area of the canopy frame that receives the locking pin". On mine, I am sure is was going to pop out on the first flight. Pin was held by about 2mm of fiber, at the most.


Good luck
Jack