Painted wing, stabs and advanced graphics
#301
Thread Starter
It's an excellent paint and I find it very forgiving. Still don't know why you are getting lifting. Let's see some pictures when it's done. I'm doing a cut and buff on a new Xareltoo bipe. One wing done....got a long, long way to go.
#306
Thread Starter
This shows the incredible versatility of vector files. I used the same image as a ghost graphic on a prior build.
On the Xareltoo, I just used Corel Draw to add a line around the flame for a single beveled edge. I painted the checkered flag in purple. You just use white to show highlights and black to depict shadows on the flag. Really easy to paint, but very impressive.
On the Xareltoo, I just used Corel Draw to add a line around the flame for a single beveled edge. I painted the checkered flag in purple. You just use white to show highlights and black to depict shadows on the flag. Really easy to paint, but very impressive.
Last edited by Portlandflyer; 05-27-2016 at 08:24 PM.
#307
Senior Member
Cool art for toy airplanes. Mine is not art, just meatballs and spaghetti, designed for visibility.
HoK paint dries so fast. Makes multiple masks quick. It takes 20x more time to develop the mask than to shoot it. The other great thing is how smoothly it lays down. None of the other paint systems flowed out so smooth it seems. I think the clear coats will be a breeze and the subsequent rub out will be much easier. BTW, the clear I'm using is Klass Kote three part urethane. It lays down much better than their epoxy paints and cures pretty hard in one day, ready for rubbing.
HoK paint dries so fast. Makes multiple masks quick. It takes 20x more time to develop the mask than to shoot it. The other great thing is how smoothly it lays down. None of the other paint systems flowed out so smooth it seems. I think the clear coats will be a breeze and the subsequent rub out will be much easier. BTW, the clear I'm using is Klass Kote three part urethane. It lays down much better than their epoxy paints and cures pretty hard in one day, ready for rubbing.
#308
Thread Starter
Cool art for toy airplanes. Mine is not art, just meatballs and spaghetti, designed for visibility.
HoK paint dries so fast. Makes multiple masks quick. It takes 20x more time to develop the mask than to shoot it. The other great thing is how smoothly it lays down. None of the other paint systems flowed out so smooth it seems. I think the clear coats will be a breeze and the subsequent rub out will be much easier. BTW, the clear I'm using is Klass Kote three part urethane. It lays down much better than their epoxy paints and cures pretty hard in one day, ready for rubbing.
HoK paint dries so fast. Makes multiple masks quick. It takes 20x more time to develop the mask than to shoot it. The other great thing is how smoothly it lays down. None of the other paint systems flowed out so smooth it seems. I think the clear coats will be a breeze and the subsequent rub out will be much easier. BTW, the clear I'm using is Klass Kote three part urethane. It lays down much better than their epoxy paints and cures pretty hard in one day, ready for rubbing.
I haven't used Klass Kote's clear. I like to use stuff from the same paint system, so I stick with HOK clear.
#309
Senior Member
There was a lot of learning on this paint project. I think the HOK paint is so easy compared to the other systems. Plus the sheer number of colors available is mind boggling.
It's expensive but it's good. Buying it from Coast controls the expenses since they will sell as little as 1 ounce. It takes two weeks to get to you so if you're in a hurry, well, wait....
I I think the next paint job will be easier and less expensive. I tended to overshoot on the current project to assure coverage but realized that often coverage was fine as the paint dried. Another lesson I learned is that most paint could be thinned 50:50 but their neons were better, easier at only 25% thinner.
I'm shooting clear today so I better get cracking
Pat thanks for the tips on the paints and everything you covered. And my delta masks worked great. I'll post snaps tomorrow.
It's expensive but it's good. Buying it from Coast controls the expenses since they will sell as little as 1 ounce. It takes two weeks to get to you so if you're in a hurry, well, wait....
I I think the next paint job will be easier and less expensive. I tended to overshoot on the current project to assure coverage but realized that often coverage was fine as the paint dried. Another lesson I learned is that most paint could be thinned 50:50 but their neons were better, easier at only 25% thinner.
I'm shooting clear today so I better get cracking
Pat thanks for the tips on the paints and everything you covered. And my delta masks worked great. I'll post snaps tomorrow.
Last edited by MTK; 05-29-2016 at 05:20 AM.
#310
Thread Starter
There was a lot of learning on this paint project. I think the HOK paint is so easy compared to the other systems. Plus the sheer number of colors available is mind boggling.
It's expensive but it's good. Buying it from Coast controls the expenses since they will sell as little as 1 ounce. It takes two weeks to get to you so if you're in a hurry, well, wait....
I I think the next paint job will be easier and less expensive. I tended to overshoot on the current project to assure coverage but realized that often coverage was fine as the paint dried. Another lesson I learned is that most paint could be thinned 50:50 but their neons were better, easier at only 25% thinner.
I'm shooting clear today so I better get cracking
Pat thanks for the tips on the paints and everything you covered. And my delta masks worked great. I'll post snaps tomorrow.
It's expensive but it's good. Buying it from Coast controls the expenses since they will sell as little as 1 ounce. It takes two weeks to get to you so if you're in a hurry, well, wait....
I I think the next paint job will be easier and less expensive. I tended to overshoot on the current project to assure coverage but realized that often coverage was fine as the paint dried. Another lesson I learned is that most paint could be thinned 50:50 but their neons were better, easier at only 25% thinner.
I'm shooting clear today so I better get cracking
Pat thanks for the tips on the paints and everything you covered. And my delta masks worked great. I'll post snaps tomorrow.
#311
Senior Member
I spent several hours today, Monday, cutting the stab's surfaces. Fresh 600 grit on the second stab worked much better, easier than the first which was done initially with 400. I suppose 400 is okay, just took longer than necessary to remove the scrajtches.
Im going to try to upload a snap through my phone
Im going to try to upload a snap through my phone
Last edited by MTK; 05-30-2016 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Embed photos
#312
Senior Member
Try again the right panel was cut and polished. About as good as I can do by hand. The small buffer Pat uses will come in handy.
Started cutting the left side
Started cutting the left side
#313
Thread Starter
I spent several hours today, Monday, cutting the stab's surfaces. Fresh 600 grit on the second stab worked much better, easier than the first which was done initially with 400. I suppose 400 is okay, just took longer than necessary to remove the scrajtches.
Im going to try to upload a snap through my phone
Im going to try to upload a snap through my phone
Good looking Delta logo....Must have been a really good guy that did those for you!
#314
Thread Starter
The little 3 inch Griot's buffer really saves a bunch of time. I cut and buffed both stabs this morning and still got in 7 flights of "P"!
Second wing cut and buffed. I got some bleeding on the ailerons, so I'll touch them up and re-clear them when I shoot the fuselage.
Fuselage ready for clear. A lot simpler scheme this time around, but every color is over shot with HOK candy with HOK Metajuls, The stuff looks nuts in the sun.
Second wing cut and buffed. I got some bleeding on the ailerons, so I'll touch them up and re-clear them when I shoot the fuselage.
Fuselage ready for clear. A lot simpler scheme this time around, but every color is over shot with HOK candy with HOK Metajuls, The stuff looks nuts in the sun.
#315
Senior Member
Thanks Pat. By hand, you almost can't help but cut the edges. I had a couple on the first stab. Also put a dent in it with a finger nail...I had to step away it ticked me off so much. What do you use to fill these with the minimum of pain? It's not terrible and I'm tempted to just leave it alone.
Tried to order the buffer but had problems checking out. How do you set up an account there? My failed attempt to check out was as guest. What other pads, etc does the buffer need to make it useful?
Good guy? Only the best.....
Tried to order the buffer but had problems checking out. How do you set up an account there? My failed attempt to check out was as guest. What other pads, etc does the buffer need to make it useful?
Good guy? Only the best.....
Last edited by MTK; 05-30-2016 at 08:29 PM.
#317
Thread Starter
Thanks Pat. By hand, you almost can't help but cut the edges. I had a couple on the first stab. Also put a dent in it with a finger nail...I had to step away it ticked me off so much. What do you use to fill these with the minimum of pain? It's not terrible and I'm tempted to just leave it alone.
Tried to order the buffer but had problems checking out. How do you set up an account there? My failed attempt to check out was as guest. What other pads, etc does the buffer need to make it useful?
Matt,
Good guy? Only the best.....
Tried to order the buffer but had problems checking out. How do you set up an account there? My failed attempt to check out was as guest. What other pads, etc does the buffer need to make it useful?
Matt,
Good guy? Only the best.....
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-3inch...l-machine.html
#318
Thread Starter
Dings are a real pain, but as you know inevitable. I have fixed them very effectively with just mixing up a little bit of clear keeping it pretty thick. I just drop in a ball of it so it sets above the surface. In a day or so I level it with a single edge razer blade like a scrapper, Then just sand it up to 2,000 and buff it out.
Just last week I picked up some of this stuff and think it's going to be outstanding and ultra fast to make repairs.
http://store.gluboost.com/
Guitar repair guys are pretty much at the forefront in how to repair dings. The hot thing now is using medium CA and hitting it with their kicker. Their kicker leaves the CA crystal clear. I had a couple of little solvent pops (holes) in one wing that I repaired with their stuff and you can't see them. I don't know if the CA is any better than the stuff we use, but I went ahead and got theirs.
#319
Thread Starter
By the way, System 51 is on sale ....15% off with code:
Exceptional stuff
CARRERA15
http://www.systemfiftyone.com/#!surf...finement/c15lvExceptional stuff
#320
Thread Starter
OK boys, I made a very minor mistake in painting the left stab versus the right. Trust me, it's ultra subtle, so you have to look really close. Here is the left stab with the error.
Here is the right stab that was painted correctly:
Anyone see it! Clue...it's in the red graphic.
Here is the right stab that was painted correctly:
Anyone see it! Clue...it's in the red graphic.
#321
Senior Member
The belly of the red is lighter or is faded to lighter towards the edge. It looks like metajules orange over the red? That colors probably shimmers in the sun.
why not just mask and shoot some of the metajules back over the red. It won't come out right?
if you were to shoot color over the clear, would it stick?
why not just mask and shoot some of the metajules back over the red. It won't come out right?
if you were to shoot color over the clear, would it stick?
#322
Thread Starter
The belly of the red is lighter or is faded to lighter towards the edge. It looks like metajules orange over the red? That colors probably shimmers in the sun.
why not just mask and shoot some of the metajules back over the red. It won't come out right?
if you were to shoot color over the clear, would it stick?
why not just mask and shoot some of the metajules back over the red. It won't come out right?
if you were to shoot color over the clear, would it stick?
Yes, you can shoot HOK back over the clear with no problem...unfortunately I have had to do it a few times. Just re-shoot and clear again. It's best to sand the area with no higher than 600.
OK, another clue. It's not the red part itself, but is associated to the red. It's very subtle. Another clue. It's missing in the left stab, but is in the right one.
There has to be more than you and I reading this.....come on guys, what is it?
#323
Senior Member
Pat, have you tried intercoat clear to fill divots?,
i went ahead and ordered 8 ozs each of production cut, pro cut and perfect cut. I have a quart of Finesse It which cost a bundle so I'm taking you on your experience that System 51 is better. Well, anything to make this part of the job easier.
A quart is more than I can possibly use in this life time and the next 10. Anybody wants some Finesse It, I have some for sale and I will sell small quantities.
also ordered the small buffer as a kit with all the pads.
i went ahead and ordered 8 ozs each of production cut, pro cut and perfect cut. I have a quart of Finesse It which cost a bundle so I'm taking you on your experience that System 51 is better. Well, anything to make this part of the job easier.
A quart is more than I can possibly use in this life time and the next 10. Anybody wants some Finesse It, I have some for sale and I will sell small quantities.
also ordered the small buffer as a kit with all the pads.
Last edited by MTK; 05-31-2016 at 07:11 AM.
#324
Thread Starter
#325
Senior Member
Nope, not it Matt. The red is fine, it's just glare you are seeing. It's actually red Metajuls mixed with red candy that is shot over the base red.
Yes, you can shoot HOK back over the clear with no problem...unfortunately I have had to do it a few times. Just re-shoot and clear again. It's best to sand the area with no higher than 600.
OK, another clue. It's not the red part itself, but is associated to the red. It's very subtle. Another clue. It's missing in the left stab, but is in the right one.
There has to be more than you and I reading this.....come on guys, what is it?
Yes, you can shoot HOK back over the clear with no problem...unfortunately I have had to do it a few times. Just re-shoot and clear again. It's best to sand the area with no higher than 600.
OK, another clue. It's not the red part itself, but is associated to the red. It's very subtle. Another clue. It's missing in the left stab, but is in the right one.
There has to be more than you and I reading this.....come on guys, what is it?