Honeycomb radiator material !!
01-30-2014, 06:39 AM
#26
Remember that to be printed it first has to be rendered in 3D CAD. This is not easy. And from what I've seen people are just as likely to make errors in CAD as they are in real-world modeling. Maybe even more so. When Chris and I were trying to work out the top cowl shape for the Snipe, he tried all sorts of things in SolidWorks and nothing looked quite right. It was only once I started approaching the problem with sheet metal in my actual hands and thinking like the sheet metal workers back in WWI that the shape started to make sense.
01-30-2014, 10:49 AM
#28
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Vertical Grimmace, Glad you all found Alex at Iflytailies. He has great products, super support and always friendly. I've ordered many a cockpit instruments for WW-2 and the Great War. I see him every year at Warbirds over Delaware. I hope his honeycomb is more "open" to allow good airflow. Do you have a temp gun? Worth the price.
My honeycomb experience was with Proctor's that I ordered for my 1/4 scale D-VII. Looks great, but It did not let enough airflow through to my gas engine and it ran very hot. I have switched it out to stainless steel mesh cut from office supply store black trash cans. I salvaged the Proctor mesh and used as the radiator on my Vally Hurricane, now in primer.
My honeycomb experience was with Proctor's that I ordered for my 1/4 scale D-VII. Looks great, but It did not let enough airflow through to my gas engine and it ran very hot. I have switched it out to stainless steel mesh cut from office supply store black trash cans. I salvaged the Proctor mesh and used as the radiator on my Vally Hurricane, now in primer.
01-30-2014, 06:31 PM
#29
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I have done a custom spinner for a sailplane guy. He provided me with a picture showing the nose from the top and one from the side. I can then create a 3D model of the shape of the nose and print a spinner thereafter.
01-30-2014, 06:47 PM
#30
Alex, this is actually great news, as I will be in need of some Static spinners for the TA 152 and my Stuka as well. I am hoping a non-flying variety would have a more reasonable price associated with it, as the demands are far less. It is more about the shape. Of course, flying spinners will be great as well.
01-30-2014, 06:53 PM
#31
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pricing has almost everything to do with the time involved creating the digital file, so an object can be 3D printed. If you have a 2-dimensional drawing of an item, that took 2 hours to draw, it will take at least the same amount of time to add a 3rd dimension to it. Then, the item still needs to be printed. That cost factor is made up of the time the 3D printer needs to print the object and the cost of the material.
I am not trying to scare people - just "educating" about what is involved
I am not trying to scare people - just "educating" about what is involved
01-30-2014, 06:58 PM
#32
pricing has almost everything to do with the time involved creating the digital file, so an object can be 3D printed. If you have a 2-dimensional drawing of an item, that took 2 hours to draw, it will take at least the same amount of time to add a 3rd dimension to it. Then, the item still needs to be printed. That cost factor is made up of the time the 3D printer needs to print the object and the cost of the material.
I am not trying to scare people - just "educating" about what is involved
I am not trying to scare people - just "educating" about what is involved
Which brings me to another thought, what would you recommend as the best way to cut the honeycomb? It did not seem like my bandsaw blade liked it much. It was a standard wood blade. Maybe a finer tooth metal cutting blade? It will be important to be able to cut an accurate straight line. I have many woodworking machines available. Any ideas would be appreciated.
01-30-2014, 07:05 PM
#33
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I can set "infill" when 3D printing an item. That means, I can set what the inside of an object looks like. standard is 10%. That means that inside, there is a honeycomb like shape. At a setting of 10% infill, the inside is made up of 10% PLA (the plastic material I use to make objects) and 90% air. PLA is a rather solid material as you know from your radiators. I can set any value up to 100% infill, which would mean there is 100% PLA inside and 0% air.
Option A) Try to cut it with a fine blade.
Option B) Use a Dremel ON LOW RPM. But don't cut along the actual line you need to cut. Instead, cut a smaller area and sand the rest.
Option A) Try to cut it with a fine blade.
Option B) Use a Dremel ON LOW RPM. But don't cut along the actual line you need to cut. Instead, cut a smaller area and sand the rest.
01-30-2014, 07:10 PM
#34
I can set "infill" when 3D printing an item. That means, I can set what the inside of an object looks like. standard is 10%. That means that inside, there is a honeycomb like shape. At a setting of 10% infill, the inside is made up of 10% PLA (the plastic material I use to make objects) and 90% air. PLA is a rather solid material as you know from your radiators. I can set any value up to 100% infill, which would mean there is 100% PLA inside and 0% air.
Option A) Try to cut it with a fine blade.
Option B) Use a Dremel ON LOW RPM. But don't cut along the actual line you need to cut. Instead, cut a smaller area and sand the rest.
Option A) Try to cut it with a fine blade.
Option B) Use a Dremel ON LOW RPM. But don't cut along the actual line you need to cut. Instead, cut a smaller area and sand the rest.
01-31-2014, 08:35 AM
#36
Here's nother source for honeycomb. http://www.acpsales.com/Core-Materials-and-Foam.html. Used to be Aerospace Composite Products.
