flystright

My Feedback: (13)

I Wish he had more kits like this, but he was selling this kit on consignment for a friend in the hobby. He said that he would talk to some of his friends in the hobby business and see if he could find a few more old kit to offer. I bought this kit also. The two kits cost me about $240.
Thanks Santa . Would like to build these kits the right way not the fast way. First time on building kits from these companys.


1. Aero Tech ju87b stuka (engine size 40 2c / 60 4c, w/s 60") Balsa/Foam
2. royal kit ju87b stuka (engine size .60/.80 2c, w/s 71"


Thanks

SVX

Thanks Shane, I'll look forward to see what they quote you.

Frets24, your Mustang looks great, you sure put alot of work into her. Nice static.
Dust

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Well the price for the kit cutting is, 63"ws is 185.00+25.00 shpg. Not sure what the price is for the giant size Corsair. Thanks to Keith, and a couple others I have the manual and soon a set of prints. I will be starting this one closer to spring as I have a few small projects I been putting off the last 2 winters. This year the wife said no more planes until they all are air worthy. Guess I will have to convince her there REALLY is a Santa Claus when the wood shows up.. I got 3 children to back me on that one so I should be good..[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Shane

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

frets24,

Is that Keleo exhaust or did you make it? I am looking to do scale exhaust on the Corsair after I decide what motor I am going to use. I may go with another RCV motor, would be nice to spin a bigger, more scale size prop. They sound pretty neat too..

Shane

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

What does that include? I would assume all the parts that were die cut in the original kit. What about the shaped blocks, hardwood parts, and all the sticks and sheeting? Royal cut and tapered a lot of stick parts like leading and trailing edges for the tail feathers. Not hard to do yourself, but nice if they were included. I assume you're on your own for plans, cowl and canopy?

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

There is a Royal 1/8 scale Corsair up for auction on ebay as we speak, in case anyone is interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROYAL-F4U-ID-COR...item1e598ddaf2

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

I'm not really sure what it comes with other than the die cut parts. I've never seen one so I didn't think to ask him. You could shoot him an email, he got right back to me first thing this morning.

Shane

Good find on Ebay, should I cross my fingers?

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Wow, great finds. I have an Aerotech Mosquito and a Lancaster. Both are still in the box. Interesting build concept. Wood covered foam blocks built on a central wood keel. I remember when I first bought the kits (1990 or so- I was stationed in England) there were some quality control problems where some of the blocks were missing. I got lucky and both of my kits have them all. Make sure you inventory the kit carefully. It should be an easy, fun build.

Now, the Royal Stuka...take your time and read the instructions 3 or 4 times before you start. Maratuka and Royal kits leave a lot of the assembly to your imagination so you have to think a bit during the build. Believe it or not, that makes it fun (for me anyway). You'll enjoy it if you have built some of the other kits (GP, TF, Sig, etc) Techniques employed on those kits come in handy when you are thinking through a tough problem on the Royal kit.

Good thing is...the Royal/Maratuka kits fly really nicely and they come out pretty light.

Good Luck! Start a build thread and link us to it.

Don

Kelsey_B

I would expect to get almost all of the pre shaped parts. I don't know if there is a limit what the thickness of the wood, but the parts shown below are cut from 5/8" balsa, and my drawing shows all of the pre shaped items that came in the kit. You probably have to supply sheeting and the miscellaneous sticks and hardwood.

The Royal Corsair did have a lot of shaped blocks but LE's were not. They were just long, rectangular pics glued to the front of the wing and stab. But you did get all of air foils for the tail pcs.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

It's a custom exhaust based on a Keleo P-40 set that I had. The right and left 6 outlet manifold tubes are almost a direct copy of the Keleo set-up except the inlet at the rear had to be a hard 90* turn as opposed to Kelvin's longer radius turn in order to keep the front of the outlet manifold from extending into the prop when the rear was butted up to the firewall. I copied the mount brackets as well and then ended up attaching them through the side of the motor mount rails. The bends at the motor manifold end ended up being too difficult to form out of aluminumn so they are various 5/16 copper gas line fittings cut up and silver soldered/brazed together. The geometry in there was a real trial!![:@] The engine manifold/tee is one part joined to the seperate left and right outlet manifolds with a heavy duty silcone tubing. Due to the contruction/configuration of the front upper cowel and the lower access cover it would be difficult to make a single piece scale exhaust without highly modifying the Royal/Marutaka design. Keeping the whole thing within the nose was really a excersise in tedium!

It's hard to get a good pic now that it's all together. The fuel psi tube is just tucked into the pushrod tube to get it out of the way. Left and right m'folds install from the outside and then the filler covers go on. (#6 cover off)

The Corsair along with FW-190's, Zero's and other "round nosers" are very scale exhaust friendly and lend themselves very well to a "tee'd" dual outlet custom set, though most folks just put a pitts style in or hide the single can outlet on the side under the cowel or inside on the bottom.

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

You know even though it's a pain in the arse, it sure does look sweet!! How does it sound or have you tried it yet? I saw a scale exhaust on a Royal Corsair and it was pretty straight forward as far as location and I believe it was off an OS.61.

Shane

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

Another heads up

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=583795

and

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=581420

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

P-V 1,

I set the whole system up on the test bench to do a comparison test on power output between the scale exhaust and the stock exhaust system, as well as to see if the silicone connectors were going to handle the higher exhst temps of a 4c for an extended time. Power saw no measurable difference between the two, the silicone held up for 36oz worth of mid and high rpm over 3 12oz sessions with minimum cooling time between sessions.

And yes, it has quite a different and very satisfying sound with the Keleo inspired exhaust! I'm thinking that the 120 size KMP ME-109 and the 90 size KI-61 "Tony' are going to be in great need of similar treatment! (whenever I finally get to them)

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Great work, if you ever get a chance to do a video I would love to hear it, bet it's sweet. I have a keleo pitts style muffler on a Saito 1.25 and I love it. Except like you said previously, don't like the look of it hanging out the bottom of the cowl on my Corsair.

Shane

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Is it the collector drum hanging out or just the stacks? Can you post a couple of pics? preferably from the side with cowl off and cowl on. also one from over the cylider top looking downward. The collector drum isn't really necessary on the 4c's so you may be able to use just a header and develop a 1/2 ring and stacks from that. I did a little funky ring type exhaust for a (Kyosho?) Zero with a Saito Fa-56 a few years back as a test for a still in the que project. Sounded great...as of last spring it was still flying in the colbert, Ga area.

Sharpeye22

OK, I have been reading this thread off on on for some time now. I have decided to try my hand at the Royal Junker JU87D-5 Stuka Plan Template & Inst 71" WS.
The gentalman on e-bay sells plans and templates for this planeas well as a canopy.
My question is has anyone did business with him? Andwill their be enough information to scratch buildthe plane?I understand from my reading hear that Royal has a lot of blocks preshaped. If the plans show the size they are to be I am confortable in shaping them from raw stock.

I have been building mostly kits and have bashed my fair share of them to suit me or to get them closer to scale. Amaster builder I am not but my builds are average to above average.

Thanks in advance,
Larry

mike31

My Feedback: (67)

Nice Zero. One of my favorites. One question. Will a canopy from a 40 size Zero work for your plane? If so, I have one in usable condition. Email me at [email protected] if you have any interest.

mike31

My Feedback: (67)

Not so bad. I still fly AM Futaba stuff with my combat ships!

dpoles

I bought a Bearcat canopy, cowl and plans from him. I sent him an email and he put together an auction with all 3 items together at a small savings and one postage.

I was happy with everything

Sharpeye22

Great news. I have been wanting to build a JU87 for some time. I will send hime an e-mail then to see if he will do the same for me.
Larry

Kelsey_B

One word of caution. I would have hard time building from Royal plans alone, but most plan builders are probably better than I. The "templates" I have seen advertised were not intended to make parts from. Royal did not supply a separate template sheet. Their parts are shown on the plans. The templates that are being advertised are significantly enlarged copies of a parts break down diagram that were originally supplied so that the builder could inventory the parts in the kit. I would at least compare them to the parts on the plans before attempting to use them as templates.

Riddle4U

Mike, you may be responding to a very early post of mine here. I did get the .60 size canopy from Luke. It was perfect!

Riddle4U

Larry, you'll find the kit's blocks are generally sawed from the plan shapes (not a huge advantage). You need a quality scrollsaw to cut your own from templates you can trace from your plan. Be ready for tons of visualizing to turn those blocks into the various fairings..e.t.c.! If you have a dremel, it helps a lot to carve/grind the blocks close, then be creative with anything to wrap sandpaper around to achieve the nice final shaping (and I do mean be creative). The big plus is that you can build any plane you want from any plan after building one of these! It is a real lesson in model airplane craftsmanship!

p.s. Be carefull with building a Stuka...the tips are pointy and prone to tip stall. I would recommend 1 1/2 to 2 degrees washout! Make sure to have a roundier leading edge also at the tip when sanding to help the tips to keep flying (otherwise tip stall and spin). Cool plane..keep us updated!

Riddle4U

Good point Kelsey. I would be suspect about these "template" offers on Ebay! I have heard they aren't always matching plans. I suggest just tracing from the plan to make parts! That way everything is consistant with the plan. That is going to save headaches. It is simply a matter of tracing...we all did that as kids (find some transparent vellum at a drafting supply/art supply store). Or get mylar plastic drafting film with a "frosted" surface for the old ink draftsman (old school). The thicker material makes a great permanent template! It really is just as easy to cut your own parts for these. It is a great learning experience also, and you are self-dependant. For scratching these kits have a good scroll saw (mine is a small Delta), hobby sized table disc sander (6 to 10 inch disc), and a dremel. The rest is cutting out ribs a little oversized from the template (that you made), and carefully disc sanded and hand sanded to size. You can make your own kit in a weekend and save hundreds of dollars. The manuals are text only for Royal, and helpful, but not like the modern photo manuals of today (no-brainers). Keep in mind that most of us builders find the challenge highly rewarding, and when you finish it, the club guys will bow down to you! If one is not up to cutting their own kit, get the Ebay kits. Actually worth the fairly high prices in my opinion (canopy, spun aluminum spinner, e.t.c.). Build 'em though; life is too short to collect something that is not going to profit you much in the end. Finally when gluing it up you're going to need to draw centerlines on everything and jig it to your building surface. This will require some inginuity, and thinking...but it isn't hard. Just get all the centerlines where you need them in the end.

Sharpeye22

I have e-mailed him and just waiting for the reply. Good points made Riddle4U and Kelsey_B. I will keep your thoughts in mind. Cutting my own templates is no big deal as long as accruate outlines can be found somewhere on the plans. I have never built from plans before but I have in the past built a new plane from the crashed parts of another one using the salvagedparts and the planes as a guide. I think I have the tools I need. I have twodremels, a scrollsaw, a small bandsaw, and a drum, disk, belt tabletop sander. And of course lots and lots of various hand tools.

Good advise and much appreciated. I have made the notes about the wingtips and rounding the leading edges.

Any and all other advice would be be appreciated.

I will keep you informed on how it goes.

Larry