beachboy

Hi all,
just wanted to post som pictures of my HE Leopard 2A5 mod to HL. Please, if you see anything on the pictures you think is no good or would have done in a different way, let me know.

I bought a HE Leopard 2A5 and ripped out all the electronics, and on the outside I removed the sprocket and tracks. To make it run, I installed HL equipment.
- RX14 board, but I haven't installed the smoke unit yet (not sure if I do, because I think it is too noisy)
- HL US tank metal gear (first I bought the german style, my mistake when purchasing. Should have read more on hobbyhavoc. But got plastic gear off ebay, so that was solved)
- HL M26 plastic tracks. Used 3 tracks, and got some leftovers from the last. Guess it was +/-19 links extra, like some other of you have posted.
- HL M26 metal sprocket, spraypainted with grey primer and then black.
- Got some switches for battery selection and charging/driving/off. The switches are placed behind the side armor on the turret (liked the way it hides the swithces)
- Opened the drives hatch and made it slide to the side. Chargeplug is then easy to reach when either of the batteries needs charging.
- The cables I used are a not the best, a little thick, but used snap on/off cable shoes for easy separating turret from hull.
- The roadwheels was the worst job. Got a plumbers-pipe with the right dimensions. Cut it in 4-5 mm rings and used 2 for each roadwheel. Glued it to each half of the roadwheel and filled it with gelcoat before I painted them all. Finished off the roadwheel with black tape to make them look better (also read this in a thread).

To finish and make it more nice inside, I will replace som cables and plugs and aslo need to fasten batteries and board better. I also might add som idlers(?) for the track to rest on while running from the sprocket to the idler in front. This last I found in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6707827/mpage_1/key_Leopard/tm.htm]another thread[/link] (liked the way Dima5 did it with his Leopard).

It doesn't run quit good yet (compared it to my HL M26), but hope I will figure that one out (voltage to the motors? bad roadwheels? break in metal gear and motors).
In the future I'm thinking of Elmod and IR Battle system, but need to do some more reading about this. The turret rotation and cannon elevation also needs some changes, has anyone done this?

So with forums like this, you always get goot ideas of how to...and what to... Thanks!

Beachboy

hoverhog

AHH Beachboy your making me real jelous your tank looks great, nice clean modification good work[sm=tongue_smile.gif]

hoverhog

Did you do anything for the track tention like an adjustable Gearbox mount or are your idler wheels adjustable?
The pipe you used for the Roadwheels is that plastic or metal pipe?

mackem

Nice upgrade, very similar to mine.
If you place the RX14 & receiver boards in the turret you will not need to waterproof the hull.
The space this frees up in the hull will allow you to move the batteries so that the forward edge is level
with the center of the second road wheel. This will give a better ride and improved traction.
An easy way to hold the batteries safely in position is to use packaging foam.
The gearboxes on my Leo are mounted on a base plate which allows me to alter track tension.
I've also fitted PzIII shocks to the first and last road wheels.
I will be fitting a laser diode this week connected to the HL machine gun circuit. This will act
as a target designator during IR battles.

Cheers
John

brel

Nice work

WhiteWolf McBride

My Feedback: (3)

beachboy:

RE: roadwheel spacers and 'tires' - why not use a section of heat-shrink tubing instead of tape? This way there is no seam, and the if chosen right, it'll shrink down to hold the inner piece in place as well and hide the seam. Just remember to cut it a fair amount over-wide, as it shrinks lengthwise as well as in diameter.

I've used this for tubing spacers before, and it works rather well. Never thought of using it for 'tires' but heck, I've got scraps of all sizes laying about (ex-computer tech, and we used it for lots of things...)

blitzkrieg65

Hey Beach boy,

You said it does not run that good, it looks like to me you need to bring the sprockets in almost 1/4 inch on each side so the center rollers line up with the center guides on the drive sprockets! Very cool project and it is looking good so far!

The Blitz

beachboy

Thanks folks. Allways nice to get feedback. In that way I can adopt and adjust your good ideas.

Did not use anything for the track tention. The pipe is plastic, just like the plumbers use here in Norway.

I will take a closer look into that. You're right about a better seam.

Good idea, but I felt the tank got a bit heavy due to the metal gear in the rear. Sure can see if moving the electronic to the turret, maks better space for the batteries. And yes, waterproofing it would be very cool. And I have been looking at your Leopard. Good to see what others have done.

SURE WILL CHECK THIS. You might have that correct. I most certainly will look into this. Thanks!

Beachboy

beachboy

Regarding your answer in the other tread "Help purchasing HE Leopard 2A5 "

The Leo runs slow. I'm very sure that it should at least keep up with my M26 and probaly outrun it. The metal gear I bought was supposed to be fast-moving (The M26 I got, I'm pretty sure is slow-moving).
About suspension; I'll see if I get any of the PzIII shockers from ebay or a webshop in europe. There are several, so I think it will be easy.

Beachboy

mackem

Since doing the upgrade mine also runs slower, I think this is more realistic though as it was far too fast before.
Having said that, it shouldn't be slower than the Pershing.
Looking at your pics I can see that the tracks aren't too tight so I would realign the drive sprockets as suggested earlier
and see if that improves things.

Cheers
John

beachboy

Just moved the sprockets in as you suggested Blitz. It still moves slow. But I am almost sure it is because of the road wheels. The gap in the road wheels doesn't align all the way, and the gap may not be wide enough on all the road wheels. This has to be fixed if I want it to move like the Pershing. Need a dremmel to do this, thank god it's almost christmas :-)

Beachboy

Dongskie

Hi Beachboy,

Where did you buy the HE Leopard? any website?

thanks!

beachboy

Bought it from a website in Austria. It looks like they ship overseas (US, Canada and I guess also to the Phillipines), and the shipping is the same as for me in Norway.
The price on the website is €99, but without the tax:
1 x PANZER LEOPARD 2A5/2A6 1/16 RTR HOBBYENG (70242) = € 82,50
Sub-Total: € 82,50
World Zone Rates (Shipping to Norway: (calculated by price)): € 20,00
Total: € 102,50


[link]http://shop.lindinger.at/product_info.php?cPath=1210_1230&products_id=70242[/link]

Beachboy

hoverhog

I just checked and they have them back in stock.
So i ordererd one 167.00 CAD thats not bad.
Thanks Beachboy for the web link

beachboy

Done some modifications to fasten the gears better. Instead of using plastic, I cut out metal to fit inside the lower hull.
Broke in the motors and gears as well.

Also made the gap on the roadwheels wider for the track to run more smoothly. The tanks run better, but not as good as i would like it to. Think I need to take a closer look at the roadwheels.

Also have to check if the motors are fast-moving (as I ordered) og slow-moving. Is there anyway I can see this by looking at them?

Beachboy

NitroAssassin

beachboy, what you can do is paint a thick white line on each track(width wise) and then compare how the lines stay adjacent to each other under throttle, or if one starts to pull away from the other. Make sure the lines are painted exactly across from each other so they are starting in the same location.. I hope this makes sense. [8D]

beachboy

Think I know what you mean. Will do a check.
But the challenge is to make it move as fast as my HL M26. At the moment it doesn't. Before I did the last modfications, the roadwheel gap was a bit tight. Not making the tracks run smoothly in the roadwheel gap. Therefore I made the gap in each roadwheel wider.

Will also do a test run along with the M26, to see if the speed is any better. Haven't done that, so I'm not sure it runs slower. I think it does, but need to check it out.

Beachboy

beachboy

Found the Leo again, and tought I could do some adjustment to it.
Replaced the last plastic with metal, so the gears are now all metal. Refitted the gears to the metalplate so they are more correct adjusted to each other, and the sprocket now is closer to the lower hull. Hopefully the tracks will run smoother now. Will also use som return rollers for the tracks.
Got some return rollers from a HL M41 walker bulldog I think I'll use.
But return rollers, RX18 and IR, electronics in the turret and maybe new turret rotaion motor and gun elevation motor are next up. Hope I will be done before spring :-)

Beachboy

And also swapped out the withe-cap motor with the black-cap for faster moving..

beachboy

Have done some work with the return rollers.
Threaded Iron 4mm, locking nuts, nuts, washers, tape and treadlock.
Had to move 3 of the return roll for the roadwheels to move free, so no road wheels touch up in the rollers.
Got enough space to put the battery in place. Attached the battery with this strips.
Sealed off all the open holes with tamiya putty, so now the lower hull should be "watertight".

Next task is to see if it is possible to change the turret and gun elevation motor to HL. The included HE are noisy!.
Then RX18 and IR in place in the tower.

BB

beachboy

Almost done. Fitted the rx18 in the turret, this link http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92...mpage_1/tm.htm help me with the wiring.
But there is one problem: I cannot move the turret. I am sure the wiring is correct, but no movement.
The rx18 has been testet in another tank and works fine. Also tested with another sender, battery and wires. Same result. The turret motor moves when I connect it directly to a battery.
When messuring the volts on the output pins for the turret motor, it says 4V. moving the stick while measuring, it says 3.99 either way. In other words the output voltage is the same.
When connecting it to the turret motor, the voltage drops to 0V. When moving the stick, there is no increase in the voltage.
The speaker is connected, and when moving the stick I can hear the sound. Just like in my Pershing.
Dont know what to do. Does anyone have any clue what to do?

If I can make the turret move, the tank are ready for the first spin, with rx18 and black caped motors. Should be moving nice I think.

Beachboy.

Panther G

Sounds like you may have a transmitter problem.

beachboy

Not sure what this is. I have 3 HL transmitters/senders and they all works fine with my M26 Pershing.
The Leo works all fine, except the turret motor. I also tried another receiver board, but same result. The turret won't move.
The internal wiring in the Leo has also been swapped out (thats the wiring for the CN9 connector), and also just connected wires to pin 1 and 2 (for the turret motor) but there is no movement for the turret.
Is the cabling for the turret motor independent to all other wiring from the CN9 connector?

Beachboy

Panther G

Not sure about the C9. I do know that you can regain some of the scale speed back by using an 11 or 12 tooth pinion gear. you still have the advantage of the gear reduction for torque but more speed with a taller pinion gear.

beachboy

Done some testing to day about the turret movements:

1. Tested all 3 transmitters/sender I've got against the working M26 -> Everything is working fine, including the turret movement.
2. Did a test wiring with a different receiverboard hooked up to the RX18, battery and turret motor. Hooked the turret motor to pin 1 and 2 at CN9 connector. -> No movements of the turret motor. Testet towards the Left and Right engine and I get the turret motor moving.
3. Have also tested 2 different RX18, and they both give the same result as for the turret motor. No movements of the motor.

Now I don't know what to check or do next.
Meassuring the voltage at pin 1 and 2 of the CN9, I get 4.6V without any load. Connecting the turret motor, the voltage drops to 0V. Moving the transmitterstick for turret movement, I don't see any change in the voltage at pin 1 and 2.
I have also testet with 3 different 7.2V battery packages (that I know works fine in the M26).

I dont understand why I cannot make the turret move...?


Beachboy

beachboy

Figured out why it did'nt work. Thanks to Jakeand and oztruck that told me about incorrect wiring. The CN9 from left to right with turret to the left...and LED to the right.
But the cable only fits one way to the connector. Thats why it didn't work. Did some cutting to the wire connector and connected it the opposite way in the connector located in the upper hull. Now it works fine.
But need to do some adjustments to the tracks/return rollers to have the tracks move smooth. Maybe the return rollers need to be lowered so the tracks doesn't go into the upper hull.
Well, it works and just some minor adjustments to be fixed.

Beachboy