Tony Gag Jr.

My Feedback: (124)

Thanks Lifer. That is my next step if I get no feedback here. I did that for the grey (great match) and yellow (terrible match) but I forgot to do that for the green. Problem is that I don't have any scrap green monokote and I don't feel like walking in Home Depot with the airplane.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Carry in the cowl or whatever in a sack. I've done that several times.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I used two 1/2" thick balsa blocks and one 1/4" plywood plate inside the opening. I had to cut out one piece inside the opening to get that into place. That ended up putting the tailwheel in place exactly where I wanted it. No holes in the rudder vertical stab.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

The 1/2" thick balsa blocks are not seen in the picture; the 1/4" ply is lying on top of these balsa blocks? Is the 1/4" ply that darker piece of wood that the top mounting lug is attached to? The piece you had to cut, would that be that verticle rib thing running lengthwise in the fuselage; lying center in the opening and seen at bottom in the picture?

I think I have a pretty good idea of how to do this, thanks to your example and pictures; I have the same tail gear and I didn't want to have to open the rudder up like someone else did to mount this gear. Much appreciated!

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

Exactly right. The 1/2" pieces are actually four 1/2" X 1/2" blocks that are stacked one on top of the other, twice. That was the only way to get them in and create a stack of balsa to glue the plywood top to. You definitely have the idea set.

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

Here's a few from Warbirds over the Rockies taken by HotCross!!! (thanks, HotCross!!!)

deep over the dead line!
Brian O'Meara asks "Hey, can you go low for a straffing run?" Answer... "Hell yeah!"
not the prettiest finish to a greased landing... damn!!!

BearBow

Any examples out there on how you solved sufficient cooling air flow through this cowl? Thx

hpergm

Thanks a bunch for the detailed pics! I also have the 1/5 Sierra tailwheel and currently in the process of head-scratching on how to fit it in.
I am very interested to see what you come up with for the pull-pull control - seems like a difficult geometry on this one...

hpergm

Bear, look at posts #1985 @ page 80 and #2891 & 2 @ page 121.

Some louvres on the cowl bottom would complete the whole airflow management..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cooling-louv...item3f23589162

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I have been tweaking the pull-pull piece and finally got it done. Once the wheel is in the well, retracted, you don't have much movement allowed and the cables do not go very slack. Hence, the amount of steering when the wheel is extended is also minimum. I can create a little more movement if I hog out some of the wood around the wheel well but hesitant to do that yet.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

The holes in the firewall was what I was trying to explain to Bear on the phone last night, so the pictures help explain it much better. I was considering the exit holes as shown on the side but only the rear ends of the slots, not a full opening. Bear provided me with the metal louvers that are on the link, so I can use those, but they are not real scale. It does help to have other ideas on how people address this. Has anyone heard if the amount of air moving through that design suffices for cooling the R3?

Thanks for the assist in pointing out the posts.

ENZ5573

My Feedback: (7)

Hi, just got my kit in a couple weeks ago. this is what I did to mine for air flow.

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

Now you hit it on the head of what I was trying to explain to Brad. Thanks for sharing. I think that will work just great.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Are you using springs on one end of the Pull-Pull Wires?

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

No, there is very little room on either end to support doing that.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

And you can't do it like I did on mine?? If you go back and look at some of the previous posting or even the pictures, it'll save some the hassles.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Ram; I'm probably a little Daft; are you saying you can't use springs? or the way you used springs as in the Picture posted works well?


EDITED: just re read what you said, you are asking 'Mirored' why it can't be done like the way you did it!

Ding...Ding...I can wake up now!

BTW: where did you get your springs?

mirored

My Feedback: (1)

I modified the rudder to pull-pull, so it has a long armed double servo arm in the same place you mounted the steering servo. I mounted a separate steering servo on the next tray aft of the one you are using. Hence, no room in the fuselage for springs. However, after further review, I stand corrected. If need be, I can use springs in the tail, but I still think I will get it without them. If needed, I have room at the back.

ENZ5573

My Feedback: (7)

[QUOTE=mirored;11886280]Now you hit it on the head of what I was trying to explain to Brad. Thanks for sharing. I think that will work just great.[/QU

no problem.

ENZ5573

My Feedback: (7)

no problem,i agree.. it will work great.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Ramstein,

Can you explain the springs? Is it there to reduce stress on the rudder servo?

Thanks in advance!

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

It was my understanding that you needed the springs for the tail wheel. That's the only thing I'd use them on. They increase the tension when the retract is deployed and reduce it when retracted. I get the springs from Lowes.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Worse case, you can elevate the servo with some 1/4 inch balsa blocks for clearance for the springs. Or switch the servo locations. You could even use the same rudder servo for both with that large arm and have room for the springs.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I also believe that springs help absorb any shock, bumps and bounces that the tail wheel encounters on a rough runway like a grass airfield, so that jarring doesn't transmit to the servo, preventing any servo gear damage.

Hot Rod Todd

My Feedback: (1)

Because the tail wheel does not loose much slack when it retracts, you need to shut it off. It's a simple mix on most radios. You can even use High/low rate to do it. Make it so when you hit the retract switch the tailwheel servo rate is 0. When the gear is up, the servo centers and stays there. Once you drop the gear, steering returns. This is a much better solution that springs or reducing the throw.

I mounted the Siera Tailwheel by cutting an opening in the rudder. It's not that difficult, and you can make sure the structure is strong enough. Keep in mind that the design of the Siera wheel puts all of the force straight up on the air piston. It needs to be sturdy.

Go to my article on the Best Pilot's site to see how I did it http://bestpilots.typepad.com/my_web...fw190-arf.html