P-51 Mustang Brotherhood
#526
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kelowna BC Canada
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Don't get me wrong im a pretty good builder myself having built a few scratch built planes, one from RCM plans service and another I built a fuse for a wing that came from H9 Tango. Im building a fuse to go to a GP Stik wing but im making the wing a bottom wing and make it a tricycle retract set up, so I can build and repair planes that is not much of a problem but I guess I have my limits.
I had a inclination that your plane will take some fair amount of deconstruct to get to where you have to rebuild from but hey if you have the magic touch I will be happy to sit back and watch your end result and please show a couple of pictures of the repair process I am very curious as to how it goes and how it looks when you are done and ready to fly it.
I had a inclination that your plane will take some fair amount of deconstruct to get to where you have to rebuild from but hey if you have the magic touch I will be happy to sit back and watch your end result and please show a couple of pictures of the repair process I am very curious as to how it goes and how it looks when you are done and ready to fly it.
My plan for this plane is to rebuild it, put a 50 or 60cc engine in it, redue the colour scheme to the tuskegee red tails scheme and its new name will be "second chance" for obvious reasons. Someday I wish to have a Topflite giant 51 in the tuskegee scheme but who knows. For now this is my project.
Trevor
#527
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Yea like I said I'm 16, got lots going on in my life as the normal 16 year old would have but im pretty determined to get this flying again. I began working on it tonight, took out the garbage bag of the millions of pieces missing from the plane, found and matched where they go and labelled them. My first step tonight was gluing the horizontal stabs back together and piece, and glue the rudder tip back together. I found big pieces for the front sides of the fuselage, reinforced them with glue and balsa. I'm not familiar with the hangar 9 150 so I'm trying to figure out how it all fits together... Wish it was a Topflite because I'm more familiar with them and its bigger.
My plan for this plane is to rebuild it, put a 50 or 60cc engine in it, redue the colour scheme to the tuskegee red tails scheme and its new name will be "second chance" for obvious reasons. Someday I wish to have a Topflite giant 51 in the tuskegee scheme but who knows. For now this is my project.
Trevor
My plan for this plane is to rebuild it, put a 50 or 60cc engine in it, redue the colour scheme to the tuskegee red tails scheme and its new name will be "second chance" for obvious reasons. Someday I wish to have a Topflite giant 51 in the tuskegee scheme but who knows. For now this is my project.
Trevor
I think you have the right ambition. Starting out young and getting things done, or trying to get them done, will take a lot of time. My father always told me "Son, where there is a will, there is a way". I'm sure you can get it back together again and make it fly. Here is a photo of my A&A Industries Giant Scale P-51 done in the Tuskegee Airman colors...
Larry/Instructor
#528
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Anything can be rebuilt...ask me how I know. The question I ask myself, is it worth it? If it is worth it to you, and something you really want, then I say go for it.
Problem with fixing ARFs is you have no plans or templates. Your templates need to come from the pieces you save, the opposite side, or your "best guess".
BTW, don't think a 50-60CC engine is a good idea in that plane. While speed and power are good in a Mustang, weight is bad. All of aviation is a balance of compromises. In this case you want as much power as you can get, without making the plane too heavy. Get it too heavy, and your approach speed gets much faster, and plane starts to feel heavy in the air. If you're keeping the speed high enough not to stall it on approach, the gear are taking a beating from the fast landing speed and higher landing weight. Next thing you know, you're having to strengthen the gear area, which adds more weight, which means your approach will be slightly faster. You get the idea
I've been know to overpower a model every now and then, but the manufactures have it pretty well figured out when they recommend an engine size. Increase it a little if you want, but not that much....just my 2 cents
Problem with fixing ARFs is you have no plans or templates. Your templates need to come from the pieces you save, the opposite side, or your "best guess".
BTW, don't think a 50-60CC engine is a good idea in that plane. While speed and power are good in a Mustang, weight is bad. All of aviation is a balance of compromises. In this case you want as much power as you can get, without making the plane too heavy. Get it too heavy, and your approach speed gets much faster, and plane starts to feel heavy in the air. If you're keeping the speed high enough not to stall it on approach, the gear are taking a beating from the fast landing speed and higher landing weight. Next thing you know, you're having to strengthen the gear area, which adds more weight, which means your approach will be slightly faster. You get the idea
I've been know to overpower a model every now and then, but the manufactures have it pretty well figured out when they recommend an engine size. Increase it a little if you want, but not that much....just my 2 cents
#529
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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Count me in! I have a half built 69" wingspan with FG fuse from Bob Holman. For the life of me I can't remember the gentleman's name that produced the plans. There is no kit per say just plans and wing ribs from Bob Holman. I have a IMP mustang yet to start on, just bought it. Moved and still need to get workshop dry walled and finished. Mustangs have always been my favorite WW2 plane. I like all of the allied stuff though.
#531
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Anything can be rebuilt...ask me how I know. The question I ask myself, is it worth it? If it is worth it to you, and something you really want, then I say go for it.
Problem with fixing ARFs is you have no plans or templates. Your templates need to come from the pieces you save, the opposite side, or your "best guess".
BTW, don't think a 50-60CC engine is a good idea in that plane. While speed and power are good in a Mustang, weight is bad. All of aviation is a balance of compromises. In this case you want as much power as you can get, without making the plane too heavy. Get it too heavy, and your approach speed gets much faster, and plane starts to feel heavy in the air. If you're keeping the speed high enough not to stall it on approach, the gear are taking a beating from the fast landing speed and higher landing weight. Next thing you know, you're having to strengthen the gear area, which adds more weight, which means your approach will be slightly faster. You get the idea
I've been know to overpower a model every now and then, but the manufactures have it pretty well figured out when they recommend an engine size. Increase it a little if you want, but not that much....just my 2 cents
Problem with fixing ARFs is you have no plans or templates. Your templates need to come from the pieces you save, the opposite side, or your "best guess".
BTW, don't think a 50-60CC engine is a good idea in that plane. While speed and power are good in a Mustang, weight is bad. All of aviation is a balance of compromises. In this case you want as much power as you can get, without making the plane too heavy. Get it too heavy, and your approach speed gets much faster, and plane starts to feel heavy in the air. If you're keeping the speed high enough not to stall it on approach, the gear are taking a beating from the fast landing speed and higher landing weight. Next thing you know, you're having to strengthen the gear area, which adds more weight, which means your approach will be slightly faster. You get the idea
I've been know to overpower a model every now and then, but the manufactures have it pretty well figured out when they recommend an engine size. Increase it a little if you want, but not that much....just my 2 cents
Anyone out out there have any pictures of a stripped hangar 9 p-51 1.50 sized mustang for reference? If so please post because I need pictures of what it's supposed to look like.
#540
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OK. Y'all don't laugh to hard , I have a GP Elite series P51-D !!! NOw , I know what some of you are probably thinking, but hey, it's a start right? If no one minds , I'd love to join this brotherhood, and I'd also like to lay claim to #67 If it's alright with ever one else,for obvious reasons.If it's not already taken, of course.
but seriously , after a couple of years away from the hobby , bought a house and all the problems that came with it, I'm finally getting going again and the little stang really is a good plane. she's got a o.s.55ax under the cowl and scoot's real good. There are a few projects ahead of it but sooner or later I'm gonna get one for my saito 150s . any suggestions?
but seriously , after a couple of years away from the hobby , bought a house and all the problems that came with it, I'm finally getting going again and the little stang really is a good plane. she's got a o.s.55ax under the cowl and scoot's real good. There are a few projects ahead of it but sooner or later I'm gonna get one for my saito 150s . any suggestions?
#541
My P-51 in front of a F8F Top Flight with DLE -55 Flight Metal http://vimeo.com/75735971
Last edited by Kbmerrill; 10-14-2014 at 05:37 AM.
#542
I'm looking for answers to questions I have as I am getting ready to build a Pica 1/5 scale Mustang. Are there any on this thread that can help me? Here is first pass at private mails I sent out to this forum to anyone that I could tell built or flown a Pica kit.I am finally building (bucket list item) my old 1/5 scale Pica kit. I have some basic questions that could be answered by someone who built the kit before. I’m studying some details before I start; here are some questions if you can answer. If not, let me know.The wing appears to be built flat along the main spar and a "2 deg negative" washout is specified. Can someone describe this better? i.e does the trailing wing tip swoop upwards or downwards?Does the wing indeed have a dihedral? Written instructions provided with the kit imply the use of a 9 ¼ inch spacer when joining the wings. That calculates roughly to about 6 deg per side.A corollary question is that if wing is built straight, and then what about retracts? Robart and others sell 85 deg gear assuming a 5 degree dihedral in each wing. Did you use retracts that extend 85 or 90 deg? Are the retract maple mounting blocks parallel to the wing or installed on an angle to use 90 deg extended retracts? It appears from pictures of full size mustangs that the gear should be perpendicular to the ground.My searches show on the forums show 85 deg retracts being used. I have a bet with the manufacturer of retracts that swears 90 degree are used. He’ll make at 85 but bets I will return them. Who’s right? I need objective evidence and guidance ordering the correct extension.I am estimating components and making a weight budget. How did you basically finish the plane? Fiberglass, epoxy or polyester resin, primer /paint? What was your finished weight?Motor used? RCM modeler review had a flying weight of 20 lbs. glassed and painted. With S.T. 3000 they added 1lb. in front to balance and then said 21 lbs. I've seen some called out up to 28 lbs.PS I’m sending private emails to all who forum members who might reply to my questions.Thanks in advance.Regards, Wally
#545
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Tamuning, , GUAM (USA)
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Was wondering if someone knew the main difference between the Byron retracts and the Robart retracts. Is there a significance in size and a lot to modify if I change to Robarts. Any help is appreciated. For a Byron P-51 new version.
#546
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Duayne if you go to Robarts web sight you can get the dementions of the gear. Look under Ziroli P-51. I have a set in my Mustang and I think the Byron gear is a lot bigger. Which would require
some modifying to the gear area. Hope this info helps. John T. Mustang Brotherhood #55
some modifying to the gear area. Hope this info helps. John T. Mustang Brotherhood #55
#548
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Has anyone seen this or tried using this. Some one is selling Carbon fiber prop for the Reduction drive for the Byron P-51. Asking $40 per blade which sound like a great deal.
Found this on Ebay.. Item # 271642864446
Found this on Ebay.. Item # 271642864446
Last edited by Duayne P; 10-21-2014 at 08:33 PM.
#549
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Couple of pics of my P51D "Cripes a Mighty 3rd"
About 25 years old, glass fuz, build up wings and tail feathers. One of the old JMI range from Australia. CJM got hold of the molds and their 82" Mustang is based on this one.
Specs:
82" span
22 lbs weight
ST2500 glow
Custom Retracts
Ultra Precision sequencing valve
JR 12X 2.4 DSMX
Aerotech scale goodies & wheels
About 25 years old, glass fuz, build up wings and tail feathers. One of the old JMI range from Australia. CJM got hold of the molds and their 82" Mustang is based on this one.
Specs:
82" span
22 lbs weight
ST2500 glow
Custom Retracts
Ultra Precision sequencing valve
JR 12X 2.4 DSMX
Aerotech scale goodies & wheels
Last edited by Peter_OZ; 10-22-2014 at 12:03 AM.
#550
A perfect flying day Sunday in Mattoon, IL brought out the P-51's. All four are Top Flite 1/5 scale. HL-C "Small Boy Here" by Scott Pieper; QP-S "Dody" P-51C by Ralph White; TJ-W by Steve Epperson; LG-W by Bill Snowden. After the photo session Scott, Ralph and Steve did a little tail chasing. Bill waited and flew a solo mission since it was only the 2nd flight on his bird.
If you click on the picture you will get the picture in another tab that you can zoom in on by again clicking on the picture.
If you click on the picture you will get the picture in another tab that you can zoom in on by again clicking on the picture.
Last edited by Ralph White; 10-27-2014 at 07:19 PM.