GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
#9252
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Glendale,
CA
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working on a parts list for a new build.
planning to go with futaba 9156s for the ailerons, elevators and rudder.
trying to decide between 3305s and 9156s for the flaps. thoughts?
also, does the robart control box come with the retracts, or is that purchased separate?
thanks
tony
planning to go with futaba 9156s for the ailerons, elevators and rudder.
trying to decide between 3305s and 9156s for the flaps. thoughts?
also, does the robart control box come with the retracts, or is that purchased separate?
thanks
tony
9156 would be great but a bit of an overkill. The rudder needs the biggest servo, somewhere around 180 oz., especially if you mix it with the ailerons as it works a lot then. I have burnt up lesser servos on the rudder.
The orange control box comes with the Robart electric retracts. They had problems with the early ones, mine was replaced free of charge by them.
#9255
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Smithfield, VA
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Actually I had not considered the 3306s.
But they look good and are not expensive, but they do have nylon gears.
I was leaning towards the 9156s because I want to make sure I don't have any flutter issues.
Does futaba make the 3306s with metal gears?
Thanks
Tony
But they look good and are not expensive, but they do have nylon gears.
I was leaning towards the 9156s because I want to make sure I don't have any flutter issues.
Does futaba make the 3306s with metal gears?
Thanks
Tony
#9257
My Feedback: (6)
Hi guys
I have only had time to watch, to many family med problems but things are getting back to normal SO
flutter is NOT generally coused by a week servo, But buy sloppy linkage, and control surfaces that are not properly aliened or to much gap in the hinge lines are the most likely culprits, and when paired with one or more of these and a week servo you can have disaster.
IMHO you have to look at every point that can be the week link. Maybe we each need to make a list of the areas we feel need to be addressed during a build or the assembly of an ARF and post it.
Cheers Bob T
I have only had time to watch, to many family med problems but things are getting back to normal SO
flutter is NOT generally coused by a week servo, But buy sloppy linkage, and control surfaces that are not properly aliened or to much gap in the hinge lines are the most likely culprits, and when paired with one or more of these and a week servo you can have disaster.
IMHO you have to look at every point that can be the week link. Maybe we each need to make a list of the areas we feel need to be addressed during a build or the assembly of an ARF and post it.
Cheers Bob T
#9259
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Willimantic, CT
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Hello All,
Having a problem with the dubro 2-56 ball & ball link the nylon ball won't stay on Oh by the way these are brand new. I should add these being used for the gear doors.
Does anyone have any ideas???????????
Thanks in advance
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
Having a problem with the dubro 2-56 ball & ball link the nylon ball won't stay on Oh by the way these are brand new. I should add these being used for the gear doors.
Does anyone have any ideas???????????
Thanks in advance
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
#9260
Are those the ones that the nylon part screws to the rod and pushes onto the small metal ball? I had a bugger of a time getting one of those to work for my tail wheel, turns out I wasn't getting it far enough on the ball.
Oh BTW, if there is any twist in its motion, it will pop off. Should be linear smooth all the way through its range of motion. I only use those now for something like a tail wheel steering link since there is no twist involved. I switch to the brass embedded ball and nylon links, more expensive, but they dont pop off when twisted any little bit, perfect for the wheel doors on my Mustang.
Oh BTW, if there is any twist in its motion, it will pop off. Should be linear smooth all the way through its range of motion. I only use those now for something like a tail wheel steering link since there is no twist involved. I switch to the brass embedded ball and nylon links, more expensive, but they dont pop off when twisted any little bit, perfect for the wheel doors on my Mustang.
Last edited by acdii; 07-12-2014 at 03:52 PM.
#9262
My Feedback: (6)
Hay George
acdii is right you really have to snap them together (first time can be a *****) I generally push them join and separate a time or two before installing, but since I have gone to all gassers I am only using them on the gear doors and chock, every thing else is the captured ball type.
hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brotherhood # 6
acdii is right you really have to snap them together (first time can be a *****) I generally push them join and separate a time or two before installing, but since I have gone to all gassers I am only using them on the gear doors and chock, every thing else is the captured ball type.
hope this helps
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377 Corsair Brotherhood # 6
#9263
My Feedback: (6)
adcii
About the captured brass ball type, with a little ware they can pop off, So on control surfaces I add a trapping washer on both sides of the ball, don't ask how I know. just the way I do them now
Cheers Bob T
PS when building I have made double horns from G-10 material to trap the ball much like the new horns that du-bro is furnishing.
About the captured brass ball type, with a little ware they can pop off, So on control surfaces I add a trapping washer on both sides of the ball, don't ask how I know. just the way I do them now
Cheers Bob T
PS when building I have made double horns from G-10 material to trap the ball much like the new horns that du-bro is furnishing.
Last edited by rt3232; 07-13-2014 at 05:00 PM.
#9266
My Feedback: (6)
Tony
I don't have a clue on that engine, So what are the spec's, seeing I have all the engines I need at the present I have not kept up on the brands, but if it will swing a 22 X 10 at 7k or more, and your bird's total weight is not more than 32 lbs, I would say your good to go. Any more weight the wing loading gets a bit hairy. and electric start would be neet.
Cheers Bob T
I don't have a clue on that engine, So what are the spec's, seeing I have all the engines I need at the present I have not kept up on the brands, but if it will swing a 22 X 10 at 7k or more, and your bird's total weight is not more than 32 lbs, I would say your good to go. Any more weight the wing loading gets a bit hairy. and electric start would be neet.
Cheers Bob T
#9268
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: columbus ,
OH
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working on a parts list for a new build.
planning to go with futaba 9156s for the ailerons, elevators and rudder.
trying to decide between 3305s and 9156s for the flaps. thoughts?
also, does the robart control box come with the retracts, or is that purchased separate?
thanks
tony
planning to go with futaba 9156s for the ailerons, elevators and rudder.
trying to decide between 3305s and 9156s for the flaps. thoughts?
also, does the robart control box come with the retracts, or is that purchased separate?
thanks
tony
#9269
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Willimantic, CT
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After months, I finally finished the hardware (scratch building) for the gear door closer and with the doors installed to them I can honestly say that they work by manually
operating them,so with that being said I can only hope they will work with power,
SPECIAL THANKS to RT3232 (Bob) for all his patience in telling me how to go about it.
Thanks again RT.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
operating them,so with that being said I can only hope they will work with power,
SPECIAL THANKS to RT3232 (Bob) for all his patience in telling me how to go about it.
Thanks again RT.
George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1
#9273
My Feedback: (6)
Hi John
Don't have the 60 so I can't really say, I do have the 62 and it is a screamer, have it in a 23 lb. weeks bipe and the only time I am using full throttle is for take off, till it gets on the step from then on it is half to three quarter's, It now has about 1/2 gal of fuel thru it so far, as I am flying it to break it in, I have it set, Hi needle 1/8 rich, Lo needle 1/2 turn rich so it drift's a bit at idle 1750 to 2K swinging a zor 22 X 8
Cheers Bob T
Don't have the 60 so I can't really say, I do have the 62 and it is a screamer, have it in a 23 lb. weeks bipe and the only time I am using full throttle is for take off, till it gets on the step from then on it is half to three quarter's, It now has about 1/2 gal of fuel thru it so far, as I am flying it to break it in, I have it set, Hi needle 1/8 rich, Lo needle 1/2 turn rich so it drift's a bit at idle 1750 to 2K swinging a zor 22 X 8
Cheers Bob T
#9274
Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Valley,
AL
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Hey Guys , I just purchased the Top Flight Giant Corsair Kit, Although this is my first kit build I will be envoking the help of fellow club members and your help also. I am in the planning stages still and have a question about the power plant, I did a search but could not find a definitive answer, Will a DA 85 fit in this beast?
#9275
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Macedon,
NY
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Reefmonster, I think the DA 85 would be overkill on the giant Corsair Kit. When I built mine last year I put a Taurus 52 cc engine in it. It was more than enough power. And turned a 20-10 4 blade prop from TBM. You will be cutting away a good amount of the cowl. I have a DA-85 in my Meister P-47. So I know the size of the engine. The only plus is it would cut the amount of weight you would need in the nose. I needed 2.5 lbs. of steel powder to balance mine. unfortunately I lost mine on it's maiden flight. I'm assembling the ARF version now and have a RCGF 60 for power.
Keep your tail section as light as possible. That's all for now. John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96
Keep your tail section as light as possible. That's all for now. John Taylor Corsair Brotherhood #96