Remaking

My Feedback: (15)

Here's a video of my Don Smith 1/4 Scale Corsair going up against a Zero!
A little motivation for you guys back east still in the cold:

https://youtu.be/JkAukrEGUCM

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

abow24

When I built mine I went with the plans and the Instructions, but I did have some problems with hinges, the pivot's have to be in exact alignment and on the center flap it leaves a large gap at the radius but it does not effect the flying and I built a drill jig to get the angles to work.

If I was to do it again I would make the inboard flap longer right into the start of the flap radius

The next thing I would look up Chad Vic he is more of an expert than I

Hope this helps also look at post #1 there is an endex and it is helpful

cheers Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

phakur

When I built mine I followed the instruction booklet but not in there sequence and had no problems except with the flaps, That said the kit builds a lot heavier than the ARF so my advice is to put lighting holes in everything you can just remember 11/2 times the material thickness, edge of part to the hole on ply, and 2 times on medium balsa

Keep us posted on your progress

Cheers Bob T

Use the index in post #1 it can be of great help

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Bob-

Thanks for the info. Looks like in general the instructions/plans are OK to go with. I will be very careful re the flaps.

Could not find a Chad Vic on RCU. Is he a member under a different name?

I intend on using

Zenoah G62 engine converted to electronic ignition

Robart Electric Retracts

Still looking at servos and will decide shortly (have to see what I have that fits the requirements)



Thanks Again-



Larry

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks Bob,
Question. Did you use the drill jig on the both the trailing edge of the wing AND the flap? basically meaning the hinges would be in a V when the flaps are UP. Last night I started fabricating a mock up of the trailing edge and the flaps so I can do test runs of the operation before I start drilling holes in the airframe and flaps.

Larry,
I believe Bob is referring to Chad Viech. You can find posts of his here and at rcscalebuilders.com
I used his plans to add scale detail to my rudder and elevators.

As Bob said, I found no real major issues with the instruction. You should have gotten 2 sheets with clarifications / corrections to go along with the instruction. I wrote those notes in the book itself at the correct step.
Always read ahead before starting a section. Read through all these threads for some great tips and scale details. Unfortunately for me, I started my build before I found these threads so some of the things I wished I had done are no longer possible. Good luck and be sure to share pictures.

Steve

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve

yes if you look at the real ones they are that way but most ha covers over the hinges, as all of my birds are stand way off scale I just left mine open but that is just me.

Larry

The name is chad Viech and I think if you look in the member list you will find him, he is also on R/C scale builders

when I built mine it was a long time a go I found some mistakes and I wrote my own notes but never got a thing from T/F, and you are wright if I were to build another there is a lot I would do different.

cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

"stand way off scale" I'm thinking a new Top Gun category !!

thanks Bob

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve

will try to post some stand way off pic's of my first Corsair and the second one

Jost for giggles

Cheers Bob T

grumman-cats

Not my first corsair, I don't have a picture of that scratch built 1/2A control line model but I have this pic of my second one that I built at age 16. It is a ROYAL .40 size. Had flaps as well.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

well I dug out some old pics, First build was just a basic no gear doors but doe to our club field I did have to have the flaps and a full 40 deg's next ones are my current birdmaiden take offstrafing runit was originally covered with ultracoat , after about 20 flights and 3 seasons I stripped it sanded it and glassed it repainted with Nelsons Paint and now just waiting for weather so I can finish the stars and bars and try to get it ready for this season

Enjoy Cheers Bob T

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

To All,
Is it possible to print just one page of the thread?
and if so hows its done?
Thanks,
George

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

To All,
Please disregard the previous post PROBLEM SOLVED

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Hey Corsair builders, any of you gents have a set of fuselage plans that are excess to your needs? I picked up a partially built kit but no fuse plans were included. TIA!

Chad Veich
[email protected]

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Chad will go look and get back to you by tomorrow if I have them they will be rolled and will send them in a tube nice to hear from ypou .

Cheers Bob T

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

It's always a pleasure dealing with you Bob, you're a true gentleman. Please shoot me an email if you find the plans and I will be glad to cover any costs incurred. I am trying to settle on which of my many projects I want to concentrate on and the big TF Corsair may be getting the F2G treatment.

Thanks!

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

has anyone actually installed/used a gyro on this plane?

Larry

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

another question re paint--I have an air brush but am concerned about overall coverage. Is it worth investing in a HVLP gun to paint this bird (I won my home so I am sure I'll find other uses for it).

If so, can someone recommend a decent HVLP gun hopefully not too expensive (like no more than $150)?

Thanks-

Larry

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

I used a HVLP gun to paint a plane using latex paint. I purchased my HVLP gun from harbor freight for under $40. It worked perfectly!

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

phakur,
I did my corsair using an airbrush decals and all.

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

phakur,
I forgot to mention I used model master paint and cut it 40 % and it stii looks good

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

My gun is at least 10 years old so I'm sure there is something updated but it's a Devilbiss Finishline and it works very nice for this very much an amateur painter. I use that for paint and a cheap Harbor Freight gun for primer. I'm going to use latex on the corsair but in the past I used 2 part PPG base/clear.
The gun was around $100 at the time.

Got the flaps build over the weekend. It was a lot of sanding and fitting and not a lot of fun as everyone is already aware of. I only sheeted one side of the flaps. I'm going to wait until they are hinged and working correctly before closing them up. I'm planning on plywoods discs instead of the wire to move the inboard and outboard flaps.

Yesterday my B&B engine mount and spring starter arrived so I can get back to working on the business end of fuse soon as well.

Steve

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hay Steve

First you need to save as much weight as possible and Latex is heavy even after drying, its the solid's that make the color, That said even good quality model paint is heavy when layered to get great color. the best auto paints are also heavy, but a car don't care

The best paint was developed for boating ie; System Three, and from there came Nelsons Paint its easy to use and eco friendly, works in a cheep HVLP works well and all most any air brush with the right needles and nozzle and is a water clean up.

the down side is it is more expensive than latex a lot less than auto paint.

Note I have no interest in (Nelsons Paints) other than it work for me and make this amateur's paint jobs look good.

But do what ever works for you as you are the one it has to please.

Cheers Bob T

ibow24

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Bob, I never tried Nelson Paints but I'm going to look into it. For as slow as I'm going it could be another year before I paint.

My engine mount and spring starter fro B&B arrived today. First time using his products and they are very nice. They were shipped out quickly and for those reasons I give them 2 thumbs up.

Next question. How has longevity of the 1/4" firewall been with a G62 hanging off of it? I realize this thread is old and I'm a hanger on so how many built per the plans are still "patrolling the slot" ?? Has anybody use 1/2" for the firewall ??

thanks
Steve

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

ibow24
I for one used 2 pieces of 1/4 inch pylwood, and I also used some tri-stock inside and a lot of epoxy.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Steve

If you have (\9arther I tus) Like I do a spring starter is a good thing, but if you have a good arm and a well tuned engine It really is not necessary, due to the weight needed in the nose I elected to soft mount per the plans, the exception is the pyl mount I changed to a 7/16 piece of cold roll steel and after balancing I did cut a big chunk out of the middle, that said I would go with a 3/8 piece and you still might have to drill it full of holes ( it's a pita to do) but saves a lot of mucking around trying to find a good place to add the weight needed, and on the up side it tends to dampen the vib;s from the engine. you can always add operating cowl flaps and that will reduce the amount of weight needed in the nose.
The fire wall mounted in the fuse ? as long as uyou epoxy it in and then put 2 1/8 dowel pins in each side it will last as long as the bird will one other thing I found even with using fender washers on the back side the ply still has a tendency to crush, So I elected to use a square piece of 040 stainless that just fit the back of the fire wall, with clearance holes for tubing and bush rods, Others have used hard wood plugs ware you put the holes thru and washered on both sides

Again it is just what you are comfortable with.

Cheers Bob T