Royal-FW190A8
05-04-2008, 04:17 PM
#76
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Royal-FW190A8
Hey Tim on my arf FW190 I am going to try moveing my servos above the main wing spar , then use heavy duty 4-40 rods , aprox 6 to 7" in lenghth .
I figure if I can limit all possible binds to advoid flutter it will be a major saving in weight that was behind the CG . As we all know these planes end up being tail heavy based on the short nose . If I take the rugular precautions ect , is should not pose a problem comsidering the lenghth of the typical rudder /elevator rods that run the length of the full fuse .
I figure if I can limit all possible binds to advoid flutter it will be a major saving in weight that was behind the CG . As we all know these planes end up being tail heavy based on the short nose . If I take the rugular precautions ect , is should not pose a problem comsidering the lenghth of the typical rudder /elevator rods that run the length of the full fuse .
05-04-2008, 07:18 PM
#78
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Royal-FW190A8
Thanks FW , I actually got the idea from Hal Humphry when he and I were building/bashing the same Seafurys . I did not take care when bashing to think about the short nose , Hal on the other hand had everything in his seafury infront of the main wing spar , in the end I had to add over 24oz of dead weight -I hate that !!!!
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
05-04-2008, 08:22 PM
#79
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RE: Royal-FW190A8
ORIGINAL: LDM
Thanks FW , I actually got the idea from Hal Humphry when he and I were building/bashing the same Seafurys . I did not take care when bashing to think about the short nose , Hal on the other hand had everything in his seafury infront of the main wing spar , in the end I had to add over 24oz of dead weight -I hate that !!!!
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
Thanks FW , I actually got the idea from Hal Humphry when he and I were building/bashing the same Seafurys . I did not take care when bashing to think about the short nose , Hal on the other hand had everything in his seafury infront of the main wing spar , in the end I had to add over 24oz of dead weight -I hate that !!!!
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
Here is a couple of stuka pilots that crashed and are waiting for there new fw190.
[img] [/img]
05-04-2008, 08:55 PM
#81
RE: Royal-FW190A8
thanks for the pics fw190a8 it gives me some ideas,I am leaning towards the light weight robart 85o gear since I already have a air kit for them and there shallow in thickness for this thin wing,CJ wants 280$ for there gear made specificly for this plane just a bit too much to spend right now.
LDM, the aileron servo will be jammed up against the center wing spar which on these kits is a plywood stringer, forward of this stringer there just isn't enough room to put the servo,it definatly crossed my mind.
the pushrod will be at least 4-5" from the aileron placing the servo near the CG,this set up will allow me to place the flap servo also near the CG in the center of the wing.
with this stumpy nosed bird weight forward is my main priority without a doubt.
this is where I intend to mount the servo hatch in the wing,with the servo placed in the wing bay.
also some of the solid wood pieces I have been cutting out of my thick sheets of wood, tonight I think I will frame up the H-stab also with some mods so that I can mount the V-stab to it avoiding having to use the balsa tree in the tail area that the kit has.replacing it with stringers and sheeting ala Top flight.
LDM, the aileron servo will be jammed up against the center wing spar which on these kits is a plywood stringer, forward of this stringer there just isn't enough room to put the servo,it definatly crossed my mind.
the pushrod will be at least 4-5" from the aileron placing the servo near the CG,this set up will allow me to place the flap servo also near the CG in the center of the wing.
with this stumpy nosed bird weight forward is my main priority without a doubt.
this is where I intend to mount the servo hatch in the wing,with the servo placed in the wing bay.
also some of the solid wood pieces I have been cutting out of my thick sheets of wood, tonight I think I will frame up the H-stab also with some mods so that I can mount the V-stab to it avoiding having to use the balsa tree in the tail area that the kit has.replacing it with stringers and sheeting ala Top flight.
05-04-2008, 08:57 PM
#82
RE: Royal-FW190A8
ORIGINAL: fw190a8
LDM,
Here is a couple of stuka pilots that crashed and are waiting for there new fw190.
[img] [/img]
ORIGINAL: LDM
Thanks FW , I actually got the idea from Hal Humphry when he and I were building/bashing the same Seafurys . I did not take care when bashing to think about the short nose , Hal on the other hand had everything in his seafury infront of the main wing spar , in the end I had to add over 24oz of dead weight -I hate that !!!!
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
Thanks FW , I actually got the idea from Hal Humphry when he and I were building/bashing the same Seafurys . I did not take care when bashing to think about the short nose , Hal on the other hand had everything in his seafury infront of the main wing spar , in the end I had to add over 24oz of dead weight -I hate that !!!!
Then when reading about the KMP Typhoon , major weight had to be added , so you realize that its the nature of the short nose warbird(model) real plane had the major engine weight . Even my pilot will lose weight , he is 7.5 oz full body , I plan on keeping the head , feet and hands , all the rest will be carved out of foam , there is no way I am adding 7.5 oz in a Pilot on or near the CJ
Here is a couple of stuka pilots that crashed and are waiting for there new fw190.
[img] [/img]
05-05-2008, 01:47 AM
#84
RE: Royal-FW190A8
LDM, I was checking those wheels out they look perfect for the Wolf,I will ask my LHS to order some for me.
so I am sitting in my shop watching some Hockey,the Sharks, and as I post this its the 4th overtime what a game.
I did get the H-stab all framed up and the elevator cut out of elevator stock material,I did get larger material so I included the trim tabs into the elevator.
where I deviated from the plan is to reenforce the center section where the rudder/V-stab will attach to the H-stab the W shaped ribs will strengthen the sheeting at the attachment point.
I am also going to sheet the tail with 1/16 balsa to keep things light,since I am glassing with .56oz glass and WB poly it will help strengthen the tail,so I felt the thinner wood would be fine.
doh! Sharks lost,helped me get some work done though
so I am sitting in my shop watching some Hockey,the Sharks, and as I post this its the 4th overtime what a game.
I did get the H-stab all framed up and the elevator cut out of elevator stock material,I did get larger material so I included the trim tabs into the elevator.
where I deviated from the plan is to reenforce the center section where the rudder/V-stab will attach to the H-stab the W shaped ribs will strengthen the sheeting at the attachment point.
I am also going to sheet the tail with 1/16 balsa to keep things light,since I am glassing with .56oz glass and WB poly it will help strengthen the tail,so I felt the thinner wood would be fine.
doh! Sharks lost,helped me get some work done though
05-05-2008, 11:48 AM
#86
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RE: Royal-FW190A8
BigTim,
I finally committed to using a fixed tailwheel setup instead of the "CJ TF FW190 retractable Tailwheel".
I used two blind nuts and a piece of plywood along the inside bottom tail section along with a dubro semi-scale tail wheel fixed assembly.
It was getting to complicated for me to make this work as a retractable unit.
I'm interested in selling the "CJ assembly", any one interested please contact me through the RCUniverse member email.
I finally committed to using a fixed tailwheel setup instead of the "CJ TF FW190 retractable Tailwheel".
I used two blind nuts and a piece of plywood along the inside bottom tail section along with a dubro semi-scale tail wheel fixed assembly.
It was getting to complicated for me to make this work as a retractable unit.
I'm interested in selling the "CJ assembly", any one interested please contact me through the RCUniverse member email.
05-05-2008, 08:22 PM
#88
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RE: Royal-FW190A8
ORIGINAL: LDM
I am debating on the sierra tail set up or simply going fixed , the retracted tail wheel is so negleable in the Fw190 , I figured why add the weigh to the tail when its barely noticiable in the air vs being retracted .
I am debating on the sierra tail set up or simply going fixed , the retracted tail wheel is so negleable in the Fw190 , I figured why add the weigh to the tail when its barely noticiable in the air vs being retracted .
I had better get an extra airframe as the retracts are worth more then the plane.
05-05-2008, 08:30 PM
#89
RE: Royal-FW190A8
I have to agree the TW on the wolf hangs out quite a bit even when retracted,I figured the 1/2"throw air piston should raise it just enough so the robart unit lifts it into the wheel bay just a little,even though the robart is a swing mech. and not a lifting one.
I plan on scrapping there wire axel and fabricating a FW style axel myself,probably out of brass,since I can do the soldering myself,the corsair guys and there build have gotten me thinking about that when the time comes.
I plan on scrapping there wire axel and fabricating a FW style axel myself,probably out of brass,since I can do the soldering myself,the corsair guys and there build have gotten me thinking about that when the time comes.
05-05-2008, 08:42 PM
#90
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Royal-FW190A8
I was think of making one myself with a scale dubro( i think or sullivan ) fixed tail wheen assembly , very similar to the FW190 .
But this is my conclusion , the assmebly was about $19.00 , air valve another $22 thats $41 for just the shell to make it work , add small parts ect your probably up to $55 .
The sierra gear is $91 and you know its works .
I guess your correct in the profile sticking out in the air , i am just so worried about adding anything to the tail , I soooo determined to get this baby light and not have to add weight
But this is my conclusion , the assmebly was about $19.00 , air valve another $22 thats $41 for just the shell to make it work , add small parts ect your probably up to $55 .
The sierra gear is $91 and you know its works .
I guess your correct in the profile sticking out in the air , i am just so worried about adding anything to the tail , I soooo determined to get this baby light and not have to add weight
05-05-2008, 08:57 PM
#91
RE: Royal-FW190A8
what I did with my P-47 was make a push rod out of 4-40 and mount my actuation piston just behind the cockpit floor under the air tank,I probably could have used the floor as a mounting surface,but it sits just behind the trailing edge of the wing of the so the weight of the metal piston is a bit forward and not directly on the tail.
on the FW I will do the same set up fortunitely the robart unit is plastic and quite light prbably too light for the Willhobby FW but strong enough for the Royal.
on the FW I will do the same set up fortunitely the robart unit is plastic and quite light prbably too light for the Willhobby FW but strong enough for the Royal.
05-06-2008, 01:52 AM
#93
RE: Royal-FW190A8
it makes it rather dificult to do the TW since it sits so far back in the fuse it will be interesting solving the set of problems that come with it, fw190a8 good idea using blind nuts.
tonight was Basketball play offs,notice a theme here,and the beginning of my first real deviation from the royal plans,having built a couple of Top Flight kits I am sort of following there general theme in building up the structure instead of the balsa chunks that come with the kit,although I will be using the wood parts to cut out ply crutches for bracing the tail area and integrating them into the rear former hopefully saving some weight and carving time in the process.
the rudder is pretty much constructed per the plans,top and bottom blocks carved to shape,lucky for me the blocks were pre-cut so I just traced the shape out and cut them out on the little scroll saw,some simple rib structure and a 3/32 balsa sides and a rudder is born.
for the V-stab I extended the leading,and trailing edge, so the leading edge will sit on the crutches I will add for the H-stab,and the trailing edge will double as the fuse end in one single piece adding strength to the rudder making it and the fuse a single joined part,bypassing the log that was filling the space there, I am hoping this will free up some of the area that I will need for the tail wheel and the mech.to make it work.
I also added and moved the ribs for the V-stab so that I can use 1/16 sheeting so that I can save some weight and get a nice light tail assembly.
the kit has a nicely cut blocks of wood that I will trace out to make the elevator crutches and adjust to make sure the incidence is properly set,the way things are going I would like to get to the fuse work by next week,I am waiting on my retract order,with some servos, so I will be hitting the scroll saw to cut the formers out,not too flashy but necessary.
tonight was Basketball play offs,notice a theme here,and the beginning of my first real deviation from the royal plans,having built a couple of Top Flight kits I am sort of following there general theme in building up the structure instead of the balsa chunks that come with the kit,although I will be using the wood parts to cut out ply crutches for bracing the tail area and integrating them into the rear former hopefully saving some weight and carving time in the process.
the rudder is pretty much constructed per the plans,top and bottom blocks carved to shape,lucky for me the blocks were pre-cut so I just traced the shape out and cut them out on the little scroll saw,some simple rib structure and a 3/32 balsa sides and a rudder is born.
for the V-stab I extended the leading,and trailing edge, so the leading edge will sit on the crutches I will add for the H-stab,and the trailing edge will double as the fuse end in one single piece adding strength to the rudder making it and the fuse a single joined part,bypassing the log that was filling the space there, I am hoping this will free up some of the area that I will need for the tail wheel and the mech.to make it work.
I also added and moved the ribs for the V-stab so that I can use 1/16 sheeting so that I can save some weight and get a nice light tail assembly.
the kit has a nicely cut blocks of wood that I will trace out to make the elevator crutches and adjust to make sure the incidence is properly set,the way things are going I would like to get to the fuse work by next week,I am waiting on my retract order,with some servos, so I will be hitting the scroll saw to cut the formers out,not too flashy but necessary.
05-07-2008, 11:55 PM
#94
RE: Royal-FW190A8
tail structure skins, so this is some basic stuff but for those who haven't done it it can be a pain and its really very easy,I am skinning the tail with 1/16 balsa sheeting.
what I do is size the skin I need to make for a given part tonight was for the rudder and elevator,after sanding the ribs for the elevator/rudder, between Basketball games
I sized up some balsa sheets,by sizing I mean cut to length, and tru the edges being glued with my strait edge ruler for each part being covered, once I do this I take several pieces of tape and set them aside so I can access them when needed,I then line up the edges and squeeze the edge tightly together and apply tape across the seam,moving down the seam making sure the joint is tight.
after the sheets are taped, I fold them and press firmly so the tape is tight at the joint,so I don't need to add a bunch of exess glue,the glue I prefer is titebondII it sands well and is flexable,unlike CA which is stiff and is hard to sand,the reaason I prefer TB II over the III is that the III doesn't sand as well IMO and I use alot of it for work the TBII is water resistant not proof like the III but will withstand wetting if needed for flexability in the sheeting.
before I start with the glue I take some wax paper and lay it on a flat surface,and depending on how many skins I need to make,tear off as many pieces of wax paper I need to go between skins so they don't stick together.
I have done as many as 4 wing skins at one time this way,gluing up 4 sheets together for one skin.
I then apply a small bede of glue along the seam,or seams if doing multiple sheets like tonight,making sure there is no gaps in the glue and simply flatten the wood untill I see the glue ooze out,with a old playing card or one of those dummy credit cards they always seem to send out,they work well for this,I scrape off the exess glue,and wipe it off on a paper towel making sure that the fresh skin doesnt lift and separate at the seam.
I lay the wax paper over it and weight the skin down,tonight was half filled cans of fuel and solvent,a full can would need to have a buffer like some plywood or a book so as to not scar the skin with 1/16 wood a scar is hard to get rid of.
to remove a dent or scar a 50% denatured alcohol and water mix will inflate the wood I have removed some big dents but it doesn't always work.
the titebond sets up in about a hour and I usually wait 2 before sanding on a flat surface to remove any imperfections in the joints.
if you wait to sand untill after you glue it to the structure you end up with a wavy surface,and sometimes sand throughs, so sanding before eliminates the need after installation and allows for thinner skins over the ribs.
taped ready for glue up.
weighted skins drying.
skins ready for sanding.
what I do is size the skin I need to make for a given part tonight was for the rudder and elevator,after sanding the ribs for the elevator/rudder, between Basketball games
I sized up some balsa sheets,by sizing I mean cut to length, and tru the edges being glued with my strait edge ruler for each part being covered, once I do this I take several pieces of tape and set them aside so I can access them when needed,I then line up the edges and squeeze the edge tightly together and apply tape across the seam,moving down the seam making sure the joint is tight.
after the sheets are taped, I fold them and press firmly so the tape is tight at the joint,so I don't need to add a bunch of exess glue,the glue I prefer is titebondII it sands well and is flexable,unlike CA which is stiff and is hard to sand,the reaason I prefer TB II over the III is that the III doesn't sand as well IMO and I use alot of it for work the TBII is water resistant not proof like the III but will withstand wetting if needed for flexability in the sheeting.
before I start with the glue I take some wax paper and lay it on a flat surface,and depending on how many skins I need to make,tear off as many pieces of wax paper I need to go between skins so they don't stick together.
I have done as many as 4 wing skins at one time this way,gluing up 4 sheets together for one skin.
I then apply a small bede of glue along the seam,or seams if doing multiple sheets like tonight,making sure there is no gaps in the glue and simply flatten the wood untill I see the glue ooze out,with a old playing card or one of those dummy credit cards they always seem to send out,they work well for this,I scrape off the exess glue,and wipe it off on a paper towel making sure that the fresh skin doesnt lift and separate at the seam.
I lay the wax paper over it and weight the skin down,tonight was half filled cans of fuel and solvent,a full can would need to have a buffer like some plywood or a book so as to not scar the skin with 1/16 wood a scar is hard to get rid of.
to remove a dent or scar a 50% denatured alcohol and water mix will inflate the wood I have removed some big dents but it doesn't always work.
the titebond sets up in about a hour and I usually wait 2 before sanding on a flat surface to remove any imperfections in the joints.
if you wait to sand untill after you glue it to the structure you end up with a wavy surface,and sometimes sand throughs, so sanding before eliminates the need after installation and allows for thinner skins over the ribs.
taped ready for glue up.
weighted skins drying.
skins ready for sanding.
05-10-2008, 09:58 PM
#95
RE: Royal-FW190A8
took a couple of days off but got some progress done today sheeted the tail feathers with the aforementioned glued up skins,there very light and I am glad I didn't use the recomended 3/32 wood really not necessary the tip blocks I made ended up being a little thin so I had to add a little wood to each side of the rudder tips but otherwise I am happy with the results.
good news,my landing gear came in and is sitting at the post office waiting to be picked up on mon.as well as a 3-pack of servos,looks like I need to lay up some more wing skins pretty quick.
time to get the rest of the wing internals done like the flap horns and servo hatch screw hard points.
good news,my landing gear came in and is sitting at the post office waiting to be picked up on mon.as well as a 3-pack of servos,looks like I need to lay up some more wing skins pretty quick.
time to get the rest of the wing internals done like the flap horns and servo hatch screw hard points.
05-12-2008, 03:10 AM
#96
RE: Royal-FW190A8
so here are the locations for my aileron servo hatches and the framing I did for the mounting,I used hard balsa for the mounting rails since it was lighter than the birch wood I had handy, I will harden the screw holes with CA when the time comes.
I also added small balsa doublers inside the hatch area,at the wing ribs, for the plywood servo mount to sit on for a little extra bracing.
also I installed the flap horns,they will be facing the bottom also,I am going to make access hatches for the horns, in case I ever need to get to them, or decide to mount separate servos for them.
the plan I have in place is to have a center mounted flap servo shown in the photo which will use a ball and socket to actuate the flaps,I wanted to do internal flap horns but the space provided won't allow for it so a small surface horn will do the job,I will cut a small slit in the wing skin for the flap pushrod.
just a few more details and I will be able to skin the wings,I will pick up the retracts tomorrow,but won't get much done until tues,going to the Giants Baseball game.
I also added small balsa doublers inside the hatch area,at the wing ribs, for the plywood servo mount to sit on for a little extra bracing.
also I installed the flap horns,they will be facing the bottom also,I am going to make access hatches for the horns, in case I ever need to get to them, or decide to mount separate servos for them.
the plan I have in place is to have a center mounted flap servo shown in the photo which will use a ball and socket to actuate the flaps,I wanted to do internal flap horns but the space provided won't allow for it so a small surface horn will do the job,I will cut a small slit in the wing skin for the flap pushrod.
just a few more details and I will be able to skin the wings,I will pick up the retracts tomorrow,but won't get much done until tues,going to the Giants Baseball game.
05-20-2008, 03:46 AM
#98
RE: Royal-FW190A8
so I got quite alot of parts in the mail,Robart gear, some servos Futaba 3004's,for the ailerons,and a couple of Skyshark spinners one for the A8,and for my D9 kit in the box there very good looking and just the right size for each model,I am happy that I bought them after recieving them today.
this afternoon I got the fuse formers cut out and started dry fitting them together,I left the centers intact so I can do my own lightening holes where I see fit so I will be able to modify the fuse to suit my intended porposes.
I also built up the gear mount rails to fit the retracts there rough fiting now I will do some clean up and reenforcement in the gear area,but they sit in the wing and fit now more details on that later.
we just got through a hot spell around here so I have been doing other things but I got alot of work done today.
I also cut out the ply crutches for the elevator as well,since I will eleminate the solid block in the rear of the fuse,and replace it with sheeting and some formers.
the fuse has the most mods so the rough part is the easy bit,I will get some framing done soon so I can figure out the locations for buillt up areas and where solid balsa will be the best solution to fill some of the critical areas.
I dont want to reenginere this model just make it a bit lighter overall.
this afternoon I got the fuse formers cut out and started dry fitting them together,I left the centers intact so I can do my own lightening holes where I see fit so I will be able to modify the fuse to suit my intended porposes.
I also built up the gear mount rails to fit the retracts there rough fiting now I will do some clean up and reenforcement in the gear area,but they sit in the wing and fit now more details on that later.
we just got through a hot spell around here so I have been doing other things but I got alot of work done today.
I also cut out the ply crutches for the elevator as well,since I will eleminate the solid block in the rear of the fuse,and replace it with sheeting and some formers.
the fuse has the most mods so the rough part is the easy bit,I will get some framing done soon so I can figure out the locations for buillt up areas and where solid balsa will be the best solution to fill some of the critical areas.
I dont want to reenginere this model just make it a bit lighter overall.
05-24-2008, 07:54 AM
#99
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Royal-FW190A8
hey Tim , I know my arf has a larger wing span at 70"(and deeper) but i was able to move the servos ahead of the main wing spar , in my case the 4-40 rods will still stay inside for the most part , in your case if they cant you can simply allow the the servo arm to exit out the bottom and have a longer rod , with typical servos it moved 5oz ahead of the CG
05-24-2008, 09:13 AM
#100
RE: Royal-FW190A8
Tim, the build looks good. I'm just about finished with my BF-109 and ready for glassing. I have an opportunity to pick up this kit brand new in the box. I'm debating because after the 109, I was going to tackle the Oscar then the Tony. Decisions, decisions..