Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

I am sure that you will be much happier with the pneumatic retracts!

I struggled with landing my P-51 at first- it wanted to float and balloon until it lost airspeed and then got "tippy" as you described. The only way to land it was to literally fly it onto the ground. More experienced folks at my club could do this but my landings looked more like ugly last second "saves". I moved the cg a little bit forward of that recommended and it reduced the floating tendency a bunch without any noticable effect on flight characteristics. It can't be moved far or the plane will tend to nose over taxiing, but since the pneumatic retracts won't flex you should find that you have a little room to work with.

BigK9

My Feedback: (92)

After adding my Spring Air retracts, to get the balance correct, I mounted a 5-cell 2100 mAh NiNH (not a small battery) behind the trailing edge of the wing in the fuse (down inside the cavity behind the faux scoop). Nt easy to get to, but greal location for the battery.
It balanced perfectly.
Now my stall speed is lower and landings are much more stable, and the plane flies great.
I run a Saito 180 with an 18X8 Classic prop that is overkill in size but sounds real nasty. Not sure how long he plane will hold up when flying at full speed though. The prop tips are going spersonic and the vibration is making everything loose all the time. I just used some green sleeving loctitie on the muffler. If that won't hold, I am toast.

As a side note, I am 'rebuilding' an old Byron Mustang with a 4.2 Sachs engine. That should be a screamer.

LBECKWITH

I put some lead in the nose and tore my CJ retracts out of the wing and bent the retract bracket. I have since fixed it and have moved the balance forward just a bit. I haven't tried it yet but will soon.

midavide

Here is a 60 Size H9 Mustang just completed

WLJ

My Feedback: (108)

Everything in the wing. Only thing to plug is servo for air valve.

Veltro

My Feedback: (1)

I put my air tank on top of the fuel tank, a BVM pressure gauge in the cockpit, and the air fill port up in the engine compartment next to my fueling port. The valve is in one of the retract servo wells in the wing and the servo for the valve is in the other retract servo well. The whole set up only requires one quick disconnect. I've been very pleased with the set up.

Darrell B.

Veltro,
I'm not familiar with a BVM! What company is this, and where can I buy there sruff?

I'm planning on purchasing one of these soon. Where did the people who got theirs for $370 buy them at? The best I have found is at Chief for $419.

From everything that I am reading, the easiest retrofit retracts for this bird are the Spring Airs. They seem to look good, require the least amount of modifying of the rails, and look like the doors fit on them well. If I am wrong about this, would someone please chime in here and let me know.

I am also wondering how these birds holding up. Do they seem to still retain their good appearance, tightness, squareness, etc. Are they holding up to the weekly, daily flying that everyone is putting on them? Has anyone got 100 flights or more on one of these? Is it rattling appart, or anything like that. I read about the tailwheels coming loose. Is this just hapening with the gassers, or is it also with the glow versions as well?

I noticed where one person glassed the middle of the wing. Is this really necessary?

I notice where most guys are using 60 oz/in or better servos. Is this pretty much the norm on an airplane of this size, and for the loads that the control surfaces are going to be placed under?

I also noticed where at least one person joined the two elevator halves together on one servo. How is this setup working, and is this a reasonable thing to do?

Thank You everyone for your feedback,

Darrell B.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

Hi Darrell,

I have owned mine for about 6 months now and it is holding up well. I have the century retracts on mine (they work well...with little modifications to the plane, but you can't use the gear doors). I also am using one elevator servo. I installed a JR servo (120 oz. of torque) and then inserted a short 440 rod between the 2 elevator pushrods (at the servo end). I joined the whole thing with a short peice of tight fitting brass tubing and then soldered it. Now I don't have to worry about matching elevator throws.

Darrell B.

bushong572,

That is a good idea about the elevator linkage. Did you permanently glue on the horizontal stabs, or did you just use the supplied attachments? I read where someone was going to peel back some of the covering, and epoxy the stabs in place. I thought that was why people were joining their elevators together.

I really like the look of the Century Jet retracts. How are they weight wise? I understand that they are the heavyweights of the group.
After six months, is there anything that you would change on your Mustang? Is there anything that you would have done differently?
Where did you buy you Mustang, and did you pay full retail?

Thank you for your help,
Darrell B.[&:]

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

Hi Darrell,

My plane weighs 14.75 lbs...I don't think the retracts are that heavy. Yes, I glued the stab on. Put some urethane glue (elmers pro bond or gorilla glue) on the tubes and in the holes, then mount it per the instructions. This makes for a very strong assembly. Keep an eye on it for an hour though, the glue expands as it dries and you have to continuously wipe off the excess. I also put some ultracote (dark yellow) around the stab to fusealage joint, there was quite a gap. Chief Aircraft for $419(?) is probably as good as you will do. I love the plane. , with a Saito 180 it flies well (scale), but it is not fast. It will loop and roll well though. Also, do not exceed the recommended control throws for the first few flights, the elevator is pretty sensitive.

Hope this helps,
Steve

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

HERE IS MINE.

Darrell B.

That is a mighty good looking bird. With the landing gear you have, what size prop do you think a person could use, and still have good ground clearance when the tail comes up on the takeoff roll?
Thanks for the picture,

Darrell B.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I am now using a APC 17/8 (about 8800 rpm's)..The Master Airscrew looked good, but it flies better with the APC. I don't have any ground clearance problems.

drifter

My Feedback: (53)

In case someone wonders if a side mounted 2c glow is feasible, here is a pic of my H9 P-51 with an OS 160 side mounted. I tried inverted first but had problems starting and idling. Now no problems. Uses Tiano retracts, but I would go Pneumatic if I did it again

Bentwing247

Has anyone really found the best landing gear for the Hanger 9 P51 1.50, I'm ready to start putting mine together, I've had it a year. When I bought it I read all the treads and there seemed to be some confusion about which one was the best for this plane. I think the last I heard the Robart 551rs with the 662 Robo Strut was a good match, but now I can't find all my notes. Anyone have an idea or have you done one that I can see how much work was involved and does it look good?
Thank you,

Bentwing 247

mulligan

551RS is what Robart lists, but it will not work with the 662 well, because the 551 is an 85 deg. retract and the 662 is an offset strut (part of the strut & wheel will not go into the well).

You choices are:

1) Use an 85 deg. retract with a straight strut (e.g., 660), which isn't exactly scale.

2) Use a 90 deg. retract (e.g., 550RS) with an offset strut (e.g., 662R/L), which is closer to scale but will require you to cut out a bit of the wheel well and shave the gear mounts so the strut/wheel retract fully into the wing.

In either case, you really ought to consider reinforcing/replacing the existing mounts.

I went with option 2, and I am very happy with the results. I used the 530 series (530RS), as it has a lower profile (I wasn't sure about the fit)- the 550 series would probably work and give you a little more rigidity. To see my setup, see posts #111 (drawing) and #129 (pictures) of this thread.

Good luck!

BigK9

My Feedback: (92)

I put Spring Air retractsin mine and they have been great. Bolt right in and are very strong. You'll need to reinforce the rails with hardwood though. Stock ones blow.

www.retracts.com

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

I have this model and am about to start the build - will be using a Saito 180 and Robart retracts. Question - does anyone out there know if Frank Campbell who produced "Scale skins" is still in business - I have tried his old email and phone number with no luck. I know he was trying to sell off to an European a couple of years ago - I have used his Skins on a TF 60 size P-51 and they really add to the finished model. I am finding this thread very helpful in the planning and build process for this project.

Darrell B.

BigK9,

Did you use the offset struts or the strait ones on those Spring Air retracts in your bird?

Thanks,
Darrell B.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Spring Airs with the straight struts in mine.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

I originally intended to use, and have the straight Robart struts recommended by Robart and in the RCU review a few months ago but have just ordered the offset struts as I want to be as scale as possible. Do you use a retractable tail wheel and if so, what one?

John J.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Kit supplied tailwheel.

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Good looking in flight Capt G - I think I will look into tail wheel retract mechanism for mine however, a number of options out there. Anyone have info on Frank Campbell?
John

mulligan

It's been awhile, but I found that there wasn't a good option for a robart retract tailwheel- one was too small, one was too big.

bgruenba

I picked up this ARF about 2 months ago and am in the process of putting it together. After much reading of this thread, I concluded that I would run the Saito 1.80 and I also decided to replace the stock gear with a set of Robarts from the start so that I never run into the problems that others have with the stock mechanicals.

I have gone for th 551RS and 660 configuration that Robart recommends, even though this is not really scale. The plane is not really scale anyway so I was not too worried about that aspect.

I'm running a JR 649 PCM receiver in the plane and I am tossing up between 537s and DS811s that I have lying around at home for servos. I was wondering what others have done in terms of servos.