Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

I bought a Dave Brown for mine. Less than half the price of the Tru-Turn. I realize there is a difference in construction but I won't feel so bad if I nose over the Mustang with the Dave Brown spinner on it.

setsem

Oriole

I had the same thing happen with my tail wheel today. I ran three tanks of fuel and just happen to see a screw under my plane then as luck would have it I read your post today. I guess I need to keep up with reading these posts. I have the Saito 1.80 with a 17 x 8n prop and can't seem to get my idle below 3000. I tried following the link from an earlier post
www.saito-engine.info/throttle_setup.html but haven't had any luck yet. anyone have any suggestions?

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

I just fired off my P-51's 200Ti today with mixed results. I think I'm gonna love the motor if I can get it set up right. It idles perfectly, is very smooth and sounds great. But even with on-board glow I was having trouble going through a proper break-in process without dropping out the rear cylinder. Anyone having experience with this motor please take a look at the thread I posted in the "glow engines" forum. HELP!!!

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Saito_200Ti_break%2Din_issues/m_1757883/tm.htm]link to glow-engine thread[/link]

Setsem- could you have the idle mix too lean? The biggest Saito that I've broken in and flown is only a 100, but I know that these will idle fine if the bottom is too rich- they just suck fuel like crazy! But too lean is a bad thing on a Saito.

By the way I'm glad I caught the posts on the tailwheel screws. I checked mine- all four were loose and undoubtedly would have fallen out as soon as I fired up the motor. Backing them out so you can get some locktite on them certainly isn't convenient but very necessary on this plane.

Other than resolving my "potential" motor issues, all I have left to do is odds and ends-- glue everything into the cockpit and attach the canopy, mount the retract air bottle and hook up the tubing, add the decals... I am hoping to get my P-51 in the air for a test flight by next weekend!

[8D]

Sonny.C

My Feedback: (23)

Just finished my Stang, waiting for the winds and rain to go away before taking her out for the maiden voyage. It has a Moki 2.10 up front and Frank Tiano retracts, man I hope this baby flys as good as it looks... The inverted Moki kinda has me worried, I had a side mounted 1.8 Moki in a World Models GS stang and it was always easy to start. Anybody running a Moki 1.8 or 2.10 had any starting problems? I can't get my fat fingers into the cowl opening to the carb to choke the thing, I might dremel me out an opening though. I can't wait to get this one into the air!

mulligan

Funny thing...

My inverted Moki 1.80 takes awhile to get started on the first fligtht, but after that, starts are the normal, easy hand spin against compression.

For that first, difficult start, I usually have to use a starter. I usually squirt some fuel into the (upside-down) carb, and have a helper cover the exhaust while using the starter to get her primed.

If you're setting up your plane inverted on a stand, it may also help to put some fuel into the carb then (while it is upright) and turn the prop a couple of times to get some fuel into the cylinder.

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

I finally got my plane up today with mixed results. I got a couple of club "experts" to team up for the maiden flight for me and I was glad I did. The recommended elevator throw was way too much and they had their hands full for a bit. Also, the 200Ti did not make enough power to pull the plane around with authority, which only compounded the problem. I didn't even get to fly it- it got too dark and rainy.

It sure does look great though!!!

Once trimed out the plane seemed to fly fine and landings were very uneventful. The Spring-Air retracts worked flawlessly. I gave the plane a thorough check-over when I got it back to the house and found no problems anywhere.

I'm not sure what my problem is with the Saito. It idles beautifully but wants to run rough and not develop power when the stick is pushed forward. In a shallow dive it sounds great but as soon as the nose is pulled up it sounds like a sick VW bug. After breaking it in with a 16-8 I put an 18-6W on it, which is one of the two props I've seen recommended in posts. I will probably try a 17-8 but I have doubts that this will solve the problem.

Walt

taildraggerdave

My Feedback: (1)

Try and get as much pitch as you can on the prop. I'm not familiar with that Saito but if you are trying to get more/some speed then go up in pitch and use diameter to get the rpms where you want. For example, I have a .60 size mustang with a Saito 1.20 in it. I am using an APC 13x13 prop on it. RPM is mid 9's.

Sonny.C

My Feedback: (23)

Got my first flight in on the mustang and it wasn't pretty, the plane was real "pitchy". I couldn't find a happy meduim whilst trying to trim out the plane, it seemed to be climbing or diving all the time and the landings weren't smooth because of the sensitive pitch control. I'm moving the CG forward a bit to see if that helps out with the pitching. The Moki 2.10 was way more than enough power, it would fly nicely on half power. Ran the 1st tank of fuel through her on the ground then flew on the second and third tanks real rich, I didn't need to lean it out much because of all the power available. Anyone else have one of these fly like this?

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

SonnyC-

Yes my P-51 was also way too sensitive in pitch during the maiden flight (as I previously described). I was glad I had "experts" take care of the maiden for me because I'm not at all sure I could have kept it flying- it was that bad! We backed the elevator rates WAY down from those recommended, and now the plane flies just fine and is rock-stable hands off. In my case I don't think it is a balance issue. I was very careful to balance it right at the recommended spot and it glides in for landings nice and level. Just way too much elevator.

I've flown the plane since and all the other control surfaces are fine at/around the recommended throws. Now I'm waiting for the props that I ordered to arrive to see if that helps my Saito RPM issue.

I'm not sure just why we both had the pitch problem, but anyone maidening their planes should consider setting the low elevator rate way down for the initial flight!

Walt

taildraggerdave

My Feedback: (1)

I've found the same to be true. My buddy's H9 1.50 Mustang balanced great at the factory recommended location. The trick is to use less elevator throw. Aileron also until you get used to the plane. Turn the rates up later if you like but for the maiden, I usually use factory recommended rates as my HIGH rates and cut 'em in half for my low rates. If I don't have enough, it is a switch away. If too much, the same thing. Best of Luck, Dave.

Sonny.C

My Feedback: (23)

Walt you were right, I changed the elevator throws to 5/8" up & down and wala! A new plane. Today was a great day for flying but had some retract problems. I fly off a grass field so the retracts were upgraded to the Frank Tiano's to head off future problems, but have found after 6 flights the landing gear wire seems a bit soft. I have to bend them back after each landing so they fit into the wheel wells without binding, none of the landings were that bad really. Might have to consider Robarts for the future. This mustang does have good manners at low speeds and hauls ***** with that Moki 2.10 if needed, I am pleasantly suprised.

Thanks for the info guys,

Sonny

hdkeney

My Feedback: (4)

Sonny, are you saying that Frank Tiano's retract wires are soft? If so, that isn't any improvement from the factory retracts.[:@] I am asking because I am thinking about replacing the factory retracts with the Tiano set.
Thanks-HD Keney

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Based on our mutual experiences it seems that the recommended elevator throws listed in the H9 instructions are just flat WRONG!

I am not surprised, since the detailed instructions provided for installing the Saito 200Ti are also WRONG. If you follow them exactly then the motor will end up considerably higher than the center line. Even the pictures provided for the installation are wrong!

But the good news is that H9 did a really nice job on the plane itself and it is a real beauty.

For what it is worth I have no regrets on the Spring-Air retracts and struts that I installed on my plane. I fly off grass too and the strip can be a little rough at times. For a little over $200 it is well worth not having to worry about the gear.

The props I ordered still haven't arrived so it looks like it will be another week before I put the 'Stang up again. I'll plan to post some video on our club website once I get the motor running right.

Walt

Sonny.C

My Feedback: (23)

The Tiano retracts were removed last night, installed the stock pair until I can get my hands on some Robarts or Springairs. I really like the mechanical retracts over the pneumatic type simply because you don't have to carry a pump around as well as all the other stuff to the flying field, not a big deal really just a preferance. This forum on the Hanger 9 1.50 Mustang is loaded with great info, I'll dig in and see what the guys have used to replace the stock gear with.

Cheers,

Sonny

airspeed917

For those of you thinking about a gas engine,, the Zenoah g-26 is a great engine for this plane,, heres pics of my installation,,,, The engines really not broken in yet and it still hauls ass. The weight is almost perfect, I actually had to add a few ounces to the nose to make it slightly nose heavy.
I'm using the BH Hanson G-26 converted to electronic ignition, Hand starting is a breeze..... Awesome sound with the pitts muffler.
see the pics here www.rcsmp.com/mustang.htm

BigK9

My Feedback: (92)

Beautiful. I'll take it. How much?

mulligan

That looks VERY nice!

What size prop and what RPM are you getting?

viper21

My Feedback: (9)

Wow, that is the best looking ARF enging install I have seen[:-] Plus its a gas engine I understand the new G26 is a hot motor and runs great it must be sweat with the electronic ignition? I was going to buy an H9 P51 but I bought a new in box Top Flight P51D 1/5 scale kit that I am installing a First Place 4.2 gas engine in with a muffler like yours and I am getting the TF ARF Kits cowl because its a full glass cowl and I wont have to build the upper cowl from balsa, this also gives me more room for the engine and muffler.
Your Mustang is defintely hot looking I hope mine looks as nice I hope she fly's well.
Viper

airspeed917

Well every flight with this plane is a learning experience, I'm currently turning a MA Classic 18x6 at 8200 but I'm going switch to a 16x8
After trying out the flaps for the first time, I soon relized they work to well and slowed the plane to much,, and with a slighty hard landing busted the cheesy factory retracts rails, and bent up the stock gear,,,, I called Tower and ordered a set of Robart 550's within hours.. I also removed the crappy hard wood rails and I'm going to install plywood rails and glass the the whole retract rail compartment. Reading this thread has a lot of useful Info,, I removed the screws from the tail wheel bracket and used red locktite to avoid the problem that has been frequently happening before in happend. And as stated in past posts I'm know noticing the wing dowels are starting to get a cut in them from the fuse,, what the hell is that all about? I'll put brass tubing over those as well. I was also afraid that the engine wasnt getting enough cooling so I cut an additional cooling hole and covered it with a metal grill,, It looks very cool, pardon the pun.
Once you fine tune the plane and take care of all the little flaws.. Its an awesome plane.
Heres the grill picture

BigK9

My Feedback: (92)

Interesting comments. I should have read this thread before.
I installed Spring Air retracts in mine and they are outstanding, however the rails are crap. I will glass them up like you intend to do. I already have too much epoxy over the stock ones to change the wood.
A landing the other day put a slight 'outside' pressure on one wheel and the damn inner rail moved AGAIN. Time for the Exacto. It is starting to look like a real warbird now.
Also, I had the same problem with the rear wheel coming loose. I decided to go all the way and used green sleeving Loctite.

I run a Saito 180. I upped the prop purely for looks to a Classic 18X8. The tips go supersonic and the plane sounds like a real Merlin. I realize I am shortening the life of the airframe, but everytime I fly, people wan't to buy the plane based on the sound.

Capt G

My Feedback: (8)

Big K - Gotta love the Spring Airs - never a problem. Mine has Moki 1.80 turning MA Classic 18x10. Good speed!

LBECKWITH

I just bought Century Jet retracts for my "stang" after giving up on the mechanicals entirely. I have never used pneumatics before and am a bit confused about where in the plane to put the air cylinder, control valve, servo and fill valve. It seems to me that it all has to be in the wing or I would be unplugging air lines every time I took the wing off. Is there room in the wing for all of this stuff? Some quick guidance from those more experienced would be appreciated as I want to get this beauty back in the air soon.

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Most folks I've seen put all the stuff in the fuse and use quick-connects for the air lines. I don't know about CJ but Robart sells quick connects that work great- I am using one on my 'Stang with Spring-Air gear. Its no harder to use than aileron and flap servo extensions.

BigK9

My Feedback: (92)

I stuck the cylider in the wing (cut a small opening off center and held it in with a zip tie). Also, I put the filler valve in the wing as well, so that when the wing is on, you see nothing. I could have mounted it on the wing where it could be seen (and refilled if needed), but I prefer to fill the tank with air and then screw on the wing. if I want to add more air, I need to take the wing off. Really just a personal preference. If you mount the filler valve in the fuselage, you will need some quick connects. I preferred to have it all in the wing on this plane. I'll shot you a picture of what mine looks like.

P.S. Also, I recommend you cut the skin away around the rails that the retracts mount to with the 4 screws and add some hardwood (with epoxy) to make the rail stronger. This is the achiles heel of this plane.

LBECKWITH

I have finished my install of the Century Jet pneumatic retracts. Thanks to all who responded to my personal emails and on this thread. CJ supplies a small air tank that when bench tested is good for five reliable deployments over 30 minutes of the gear until you need to fill it with air again. I put the air tank in the fuse, the refill valve in the fuse, the adjustable valve in the unused retract space in the wing and the retract mounting rails are reinforced. I bundled the one air line with my servo connectors. These retracts are much more heavy duty than the supplied retracts or the Frank Tiano retracts. I am optimistic they are up to the task.
I have had my hands full on landings using half and full flaps. On final just before touch down the plane has been getting very tippy making for some ugly landings that more resemble "saves" and tearing up the previous gear. I checked the CG and discovered that after all the gear repairs and beefing up the rails that I am tail heavy which may be causing the plane to be squirrely on landings. It appears as if I need another 4 ounces in the nose. Does any one have a comment on this aspect??