Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Question I don't recall if asked previously in this thread regarding the new ignition from Moki.
Has anyone who has upgraded from the old top hat ignition module to the newer "blue box" noticed improvement in the engine's performance ?????
I would hope the cylinder firing at lower rpm's would be better.

Jaketab

GeorgiaFlyer

It looks like they would work if the distance from firewall to the front of the cowling rim works out that the prop will clear the cowling and not stick out too much. The Moki 180 uses 5mm bolts so check to see if they fit those standoffs. I ended up cutting the original motor box off and making my own mount for the 180. See attached picture.

SJN

Thankls for the pics. My buddy has a lathe and lots of alu, so I can get them any size I need :-)
As Im installing it in the exact plane as yours, how thick is your wooden block ?
Are you satisfied with the prop spacing between the front of the cowl, and the back face of the prop ?
Are you going to install baffles in the cowl ?

Scott Prossen

I believe that to be correct Mitch. Just plug and play. Internal voltage regulation and better solid state electronics. No new coils.
Look forward to seeing you and everyone else at TG. Can't wait.

GeorgiaFlyer

The thickness of the wood block is 3 x 3/4" plywood, so 2 1/4"
Yes I specifically measured many times to get the distance right so the prop would be properly spaced from the front of the cowling.
As of right now I am not planning on using baffles. I plan on cutting some exit air holes and covering with screen on the bottom of the cowling for more airflow.

SJN

Thanks :-)

GeorgiaFlyer

let me know when your 180 shows up and send some pictures of your progress. I hope to maiden mine this coming weekend. I will let you know how it goes, fingers crossed

bcrc

My Feedback: (19)

I run my Moki 150 with standoffs just like in your picture. No problems.

bcrc

My Feedback: (19)

I have an older Moki 150.
Will the new rectangular ignition box work with it?
If so, will it give me a hotter spark? My guess is "no", as the coils would remain the same.
Thanks,
BC

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Sonnich,
Not saying stand offs won't work but you may want to check out my motor mount box starting at post #123
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/11593781-ziroli-p-47-92-blown-up-110-a-5.html



For down and right thrust, my setup allows 'fine' tuning the engine box mount without putting any stress, known or unknown, on the engine mount. Also, the full engine mount base is resting against a solid box mount, especially, since there are only three bolts holding the 15 HP engine to the engine box.

lorenzofgrs

My Feedback: (-1)

from experience and excellent results...
use mobil 1 for the fuel mix.
use lowest octane and will run with more power.
lubricate as you do.

lorenzofgrs

My Feedback: (-1)

forgot.
use 4.8 battery for ignition

rk212

Hi guys, have just decided to try the APS 380HV pump on my early 150.

What do I need to do the the engine exactly?

Some have mentioned opening up the MOKI front housing and removing components from there?

If someone doesn't mind giving me some clear details on what do pls would really appreciate it?

Also does pump need to be set to the correct flow rate or is it by default the correct setting? Just plug and play?

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Pump is plug and play, no adjustment needed, comes with nice set of instructuons. Gotz has them at Vogelsang Aeroscale. The pump is rigged so that it pressurizes the supply side of the carb beyond what the carb requires and then an overflow goes back to the fuel tank, as long as the pressure is above what the carb requires as a minimum the actual pressure supplied is not critical.

No need to disassemble engine, all you are going to need to do is disconnect the small festo line that runs from the crankcase driven "pump" back to the carb. Most users cut the tube in half and then install some sort of plug in the half still going to the carb to stop crud fouling it. The front half is left open to allow air and grease to exit as the pump remains working. You could go in and remove the piston from the "pump" but why?

Merely replacing the cut tube with an intact section and connecting it back to the carb and pump returns the engine to "stock." I cheated and disconnected the line at the pump and plugged it (the line still going to the carb I mean) and placed a new short section going to the "pump." Now I can return to stock in seconds.

Make sure to break in the pump before installation, just make a test setup where the pump draws from and fuel tank and empties right back into it and run for a half hour, easy peasy. Make sure it stays wet all the time.

It is strongly recommended that you have a radio operated kill switch on the pump, they do not run dry well and if the plane comes down off the field it might burn up before you can retrieve it, same if you run out of fuel and deadstick in. It also acts as an additional engine kill though not not as instantaneous as an ingition kill.

Whit

SJN

Mine just arrived

GeorgiaFlyer

Oh awesome you are goin to love it! Keep us posted on your progress

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Hi Guys-
Need an opinion please: Moki 150, 3 blade 24x18 (purchased from Vogelsang), 50/1 oil, 4.8v 3600mah NiCad. Max RPM seems to top out at 4300/4400. It seems like I remember another 150 owner who had similar problem and found out that there was an issue with his motor.
My question is this -Is it possible that this is all this particular engine is gonna do, or is there something wrong ? This thread is long, but I seem to see most guys getting 5100/5300 out of their 150. My number three cylinder does seem to be firing, as it's temp seems to stay around 140-150, about 40 degrees lower than the rest of them. Still getting heavy black gunk out of the exhaust tube closest to that # 3 cylinder FYI.
Thanks for your time-
MIke Oberst

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Mike, The 43--4400RPM is perfect with that prop. It'll unload more in the air and everything will improve with more runtime including the black gunk. That's normal as all parts are seating in. Mitch

BeasleyBunch

Hey Mitch,
How many hours...or tanks of gas would you recommend the Moki 180 go through on the test stand to get past the "black gunk" stage?
Thanks

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

While I will defer to Mitch, I would not recommend a lot of test stand time. These engines are very easy to overheat on the ground, especially at half throttle and above. The recommendations I've been given (and followed) is to adjust on the ground to a good top end and reliable idle and then get the break in done in the air where the cooling is better.

Whit

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Thanks Mitch. The learning curve on these engines I have found to be fairly steep. Thanks goodness for guys like you, Scott, and countless others that have been wiling to help me.
Regards-MIke
PS - I have never paid so much for an item that came with so little instructions.....

GeorgiaFlyer

I agree and I am following the same advise with mine.

GeorgiaFlyer

Yes +1 but there really is a lot of good advise on this thread. Particularly post #209 and #213 on valve adjustment, which should be done regularly. Don't let those push rods get too lose or you will throw one. Also keep the rocker arms oiled.

BeasleyBunch

Whit...funny running into you here on the other side of the Universe! Thanks for the info as I am about ready to run the 180 on the stand. When I saw "black gunk", I guess I had thoughts of black gunk messing up the paint instead of "weathering" it. Thanks again.

wphilb

My Feedback: (10)

Small world!

Whit