MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
#2801
haha no I have not program the rates and expo yet not like my other 3D planes, I know I need to tone it down
#2803
#2804
My Feedback: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minneapolis,
MN
Posts: 93
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rpm reading for Spektrum telemetry
I am going to use Spektrum telemetry to read temperature of my #3 cylinder in flight. I would also like to have it tell me RPM. I would like to use the RPM reading from the hall sensor on the Moki to send to the Spektrum telemetry module. I suspect that I can just put another set of wires in parallel to the ones going from Moki's Hall sensor to the ignition box, and run these wires to the Spektrum module. Has anyone tried this? Does anyone have any opinion about this? Will it work??
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
#2809
#2810
Minimum high rpm?
Hi,
Got my second Moki in a testplane befor eentering into the CARF P47.
I am running a large Biela 32x16 threebladed prop an max rev is 3400rpm.
Very well baffeled but will this propell unload enough in the air or will it be heavy and run too warm?
Got my second Moki in a testplane befor eentering into the CARF P47.
I am running a large Biela 32x16 threebladed prop an max rev is 3400rpm.
Very well baffeled but will this propell unload enough in the air or will it be heavy and run too warm?
#2812
No one with experience about this RPM`s?
#2813
#2814
I think you will be fine with that setup Alf. My opinion is based on 100 + flights with a 250 in a Corsair running a 32 inch Solo 3-blade prop set for 3200 RPM maximum on the ground. The engine unloaded to 4100 RPM maximum during flight and ran 180-200 degrees F depending on the outside air temperature. This is in LAS VEGAS, which during the Summer is an oven!
#2818
My Feedback: (2)
zzw26n
The following set up is what I use and seems to work well.
Use a 7.4v Li-Ion 5600mah battery to main charge switch.
Switch to optic ignition cut off.
Optic ignition to voltage regulator set to 5.3 volts.
Regular is split and feeds both ignition and fuel pump at 5.3 volts.
Advantage – main switch contains the charge jack.
The ignition and fuel pump are switched on and off with the radio once the switch is armed.
When ignition is turned off – the pump does not continue to run.
With the newer ignition and fuel pump – you may not need a voltage regulator ?????
J Tab
The following set up is what I use and seems to work well.
Use a 7.4v Li-Ion 5600mah battery to main charge switch.
Switch to optic ignition cut off.
Optic ignition to voltage regulator set to 5.3 volts.
Regular is split and feeds both ignition and fuel pump at 5.3 volts.
Advantage – main switch contains the charge jack.
The ignition and fuel pump are switched on and off with the radio once the switch is armed.
When ignition is turned off – the pump does not continue to run.
With the newer ignition and fuel pump – you may not need a voltage regulator ?????
J Tab
#2819
Thread Starter
#2820
zzw26n
The following set up is what I use and seems to work well.
Use a 7.4v Li-Ion 5600mah battery to main charge switch.
Switch to optic ignition cut off.
Optic ignition to voltage regulator set to 5.3 volts.
Regular is split and feeds both ignition and fuel pump at 5.3 volts.
Advantage – main switch contains the charge jack.
The ignition and fuel pump are switched on and off with the radio once the switch is armed.
When ignition is turned off – the pump does not continue to run.
With the newer ignition and fuel pump – you may not need a voltage regulator ?????
J Tab
The following set up is what I use and seems to work well.
Use a 7.4v Li-Ion 5600mah battery to main charge switch.
Switch to optic ignition cut off.
Optic ignition to voltage regulator set to 5.3 volts.
Regular is split and feeds both ignition and fuel pump at 5.3 volts.
Advantage – main switch contains the charge jack.
The ignition and fuel pump are switched on and off with the radio once the switch is armed.
When ignition is turned off – the pump does not continue to run.
With the newer ignition and fuel pump – you may not need a voltage regulator ?????
J Tab
#2824
My Feedback: (10)
Since I have the new Rainbow Tronics aftermarket ignition that likes a higher voltage I went with two separate batteries, both A123's from NOBS Batteries but one is 2 cells, the other is a three cell battery. Two separate charge jack switches and two separate Smart Fly optical ignition cutoff switches. More complicated but allows the higher voltage that the RT ignition wants.
whit
whit
#2825
My Feedback: (1)
Hi gentlemen, I could be wrong but the new ignition works on the 215/250 400 too but these still use the internal spark coils and not the the electronic spark box with new leads. Can anyone confirm this?
It seems that the blue box enables a higher voltage input and keeps the same timing curve as before? Although my top hat ignition seems to work fine I'm aware of their failure rate. I hate worrying what could happen. Mitch
PS. See you soon at TG Scott.
It seems that the blue box enables a higher voltage input and keeps the same timing curve as before? Although my top hat ignition seems to work fine I'm aware of their failure rate. I hate worrying what could happen. Mitch
PS. See you soon at TG Scott.