Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
04-19-2005, 10:21 PM
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Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Hi All,
Well here are the build notes that I said I would post. I wasn’t sure where to post this… but since it is powered by gasoline (well, camping fuel) and it’s stretched out bigger than 1/10th now… I figure I would post it here in the large scale section.
First off… here are the videos of the Maxx Gasser running. (for people that didn’t see them in my other post)
[link=http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=54663]The Maxx Gasser running[/link]
[link=http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=54664]Pit Stop and restart[/link]
So, let’s get on with it…
OK… this project started because a friend I fly RC helis with hated to go out to the flying field and have it be too wind to fly. So… he talked me into putting a truck together so we would have something to do until the wind died down. This project went from an idea in my head, to a driving truck in two weeks. Then, one week later, it got a new engine. Oh… by no means is this a complete step by step set of “Instructions” on how to build one of these. But it should give anyone an idea of what it will take to do the conversion. But, if someone else is thinking about doing this conversion… you should chose an engine that has a clutch on one side, (mine is in the black housing) and the pullstarter on the other. This type of engine has a “Full” crankshaft which is stronger than the typical home use weed eaters. The ideal engine should be small, and compact with a good solid clutch built into it. The John Deer and Echo engines are perfect candidates. Oh… and I wouldn’t go any bigger than 23cc’s. if you go bigger than that… you may have a hard time getting the body to fit… you will kill the plastic parts quickly… and, you will have a truck that won’t ever keep it’s front tires on the ground!! OK… that sounds cool… but when you are driving around, or racing with your buddies, it can get annoying.
The original plan was to fit the engine without having to stretch the chassis. But, the original engine was larger than the John Deere engine that I’m using now, and I wasn’t able to move the transmission as far forward as I hoped I could because the steering bell cranks are in the way. So to simplify things… I mounted the transmission just behind the steering assembly (one less thing to mod) and added 1.5 inches to the length of the chassis. Adding this amount made it the perfect length for any of the 1/8th scale truck bodies, including the LST, and the Associated monster GT bodies. The lengthening was done by cutting the underbracing in the middle of the 8 bolts that hold them to the chassis pan. Then a simple aluminum channel was added to each side so that the pan would not flex. (the engine mounts help with this also)
The extra length was added to the pan by simply making an extension out of .125” aluminum plate. When the chassis is bolted back together, the front bracing will bolt up to the original holes, and the rear will need new holes drilled in the pan.
To get a few extra inches of space… the transmission is bolted in the chassis backwards. But since the input shaft will be on the wrong side now… you need to fix that. This is done by drilling threw the plastic trany housing on the rear bearing, and flipping the input shaft around. But… you will now have to flip the first drive gear around on the shaft. The do this, pull the pin out of the gear, pull the gear off the shaft, line up the gear the correct way on the shaft, mark the shaft for where the pin should be, then drill a new pin hole.
You should now have a backwards running trany. BUT !!!... you need to see what way your engine spins. IF your engine spins COUNTER CLOCK WISE looking at it from the front… your transmission is done. IF it spins CLOCK WISE from the front… you need to press out your one way bearing from your two speed section, and flip it around. AND you will also have to flip over your shifting ring, otherwise you will be going no where and not shifting. (my first engine spun CW, and my new engine spins CCW so I know this works) Also, if this is done right, the 2 speed section will still work. Just don't have it shift at too high of an RPM. the heavy flywheel won't slow down for plastc parts. (get it?... BOOM)
Once your trny is done… you will need to mount it. This is done by cutting the pan and drilling new holes. My trany is mounted slightly to the right side of the truck. This helps line it up better with the engine, and will give you a good strong mounting point. (if you do this conversion you will see why) The trany is also mounted on a slight angle. I did this by adding some washers. If you want to do it a different way… fine. You may not have to depending on your engine. Oh… the coupler on the input of my trany is a transmission output yoke. You can use what you like to couple the engine to the trans.
Now… with the chassis being longer, and the trany moved to the front of the truck… you will need a longer driveshaft. I made mine out of two rear axle shafts. I put the inter spline shafts on both the trans and the differential. Then I used a cut off section of the outer spline shaft and simply slid it over the middle. It seems to be holding up fine. Oh… I used a bit of electrical tape on either end of the center section to hold it into place. (the tape has no load on it so it’s ok) Also… since the trnay and rear diff are fixed… it doesn’t have to get longer and shorter as the truck runs. So, this is a simple fix with a stock part that can be bought cheap if you need to replace it.
Mounting the engine. Hummm….. OK… there is no good way to tell you how to do it other than to say it needs to be very rigid and strong. If you can grab the engine and move it at all… it will get torn from the truck on the first flip. My mounts are extruded 3/16” aluminum. Here’s pics from both of my engines so you can get an idea of what I did. Also, take time to line up the engine. This will cut down on wear and tare.
OK… hooking the engine to the trany. I went direct drive on mine. First of all, this gets rid of the exposed gear. And because this type of engine only spins up to about 10,000 RPM’s… you don’t need the other reduction. Here again… no easy way to tell you how to do it, so here are some pics. I did however, leave some slop in the holes around the bolts that do the coupleing. This alows the engine to be slightly misaligned and not bind while its spinning.
OK… the last thing about the drive train. Since the trany is now mounted backwards… AND if you have a CCW running engine… if you try to drive your truck, it will only run in reverse!! But, the solution to this is very easy. The differentials in this truck are symmetrical. So, all you have to do is pull the rear diff housing out of the truck, and flip it upside-down. That’s it… simple. Bolt it back together and your done. (if you have a CW running engine, you won’t have to do this)
OK… the rest is just rigging. And… if you’ve come this far, I shouldn’t have to tell you how to hook up the breaks, run a throttle cable, or mount a servo. Besides, there are enough pics to let you see what I did.
If you have anymore questions, please post them here.
Well here are the build notes that I said I would post. I wasn’t sure where to post this… but since it is powered by gasoline (well, camping fuel) and it’s stretched out bigger than 1/10th now… I figure I would post it here in the large scale section.
First off… here are the videos of the Maxx Gasser running. (for people that didn’t see them in my other post)
[link=http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=54663]The Maxx Gasser running[/link]
[link=http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=54664]Pit Stop and restart[/link]
So, let’s get on with it…
OK… this project started because a friend I fly RC helis with hated to go out to the flying field and have it be too wind to fly. So… he talked me into putting a truck together so we would have something to do until the wind died down. This project went from an idea in my head, to a driving truck in two weeks. Then, one week later, it got a new engine. Oh… by no means is this a complete step by step set of “Instructions” on how to build one of these. But it should give anyone an idea of what it will take to do the conversion. But, if someone else is thinking about doing this conversion… you should chose an engine that has a clutch on one side, (mine is in the black housing) and the pullstarter on the other. This type of engine has a “Full” crankshaft which is stronger than the typical home use weed eaters. The ideal engine should be small, and compact with a good solid clutch built into it. The John Deer and Echo engines are perfect candidates. Oh… and I wouldn’t go any bigger than 23cc’s. if you go bigger than that… you may have a hard time getting the body to fit… you will kill the plastic parts quickly… and, you will have a truck that won’t ever keep it’s front tires on the ground!! OK… that sounds cool… but when you are driving around, or racing with your buddies, it can get annoying.
The original plan was to fit the engine without having to stretch the chassis. But, the original engine was larger than the John Deere engine that I’m using now, and I wasn’t able to move the transmission as far forward as I hoped I could because the steering bell cranks are in the way. So to simplify things… I mounted the transmission just behind the steering assembly (one less thing to mod) and added 1.5 inches to the length of the chassis. Adding this amount made it the perfect length for any of the 1/8th scale truck bodies, including the LST, and the Associated monster GT bodies. The lengthening was done by cutting the underbracing in the middle of the 8 bolts that hold them to the chassis pan. Then a simple aluminum channel was added to each side so that the pan would not flex. (the engine mounts help with this also)
The extra length was added to the pan by simply making an extension out of .125” aluminum plate. When the chassis is bolted back together, the front bracing will bolt up to the original holes, and the rear will need new holes drilled in the pan.
To get a few extra inches of space… the transmission is bolted in the chassis backwards. But since the input shaft will be on the wrong side now… you need to fix that. This is done by drilling threw the plastic trany housing on the rear bearing, and flipping the input shaft around. But… you will now have to flip the first drive gear around on the shaft. The do this, pull the pin out of the gear, pull the gear off the shaft, line up the gear the correct way on the shaft, mark the shaft for where the pin should be, then drill a new pin hole.
You should now have a backwards running trany. BUT !!!... you need to see what way your engine spins. IF your engine spins COUNTER CLOCK WISE looking at it from the front… your transmission is done. IF it spins CLOCK WISE from the front… you need to press out your one way bearing from your two speed section, and flip it around. AND you will also have to flip over your shifting ring, otherwise you will be going no where and not shifting. (my first engine spun CW, and my new engine spins CCW so I know this works) Also, if this is done right, the 2 speed section will still work. Just don't have it shift at too high of an RPM. the heavy flywheel won't slow down for plastc parts. (get it?... BOOM)
Once your trny is done… you will need to mount it. This is done by cutting the pan and drilling new holes. My trany is mounted slightly to the right side of the truck. This helps line it up better with the engine, and will give you a good strong mounting point. (if you do this conversion you will see why) The trany is also mounted on a slight angle. I did this by adding some washers. If you want to do it a different way… fine. You may not have to depending on your engine. Oh… the coupler on the input of my trany is a transmission output yoke. You can use what you like to couple the engine to the trans.
Now… with the chassis being longer, and the trany moved to the front of the truck… you will need a longer driveshaft. I made mine out of two rear axle shafts. I put the inter spline shafts on both the trans and the differential. Then I used a cut off section of the outer spline shaft and simply slid it over the middle. It seems to be holding up fine. Oh… I used a bit of electrical tape on either end of the center section to hold it into place. (the tape has no load on it so it’s ok) Also… since the trnay and rear diff are fixed… it doesn’t have to get longer and shorter as the truck runs. So, this is a simple fix with a stock part that can be bought cheap if you need to replace it.
Mounting the engine. Hummm….. OK… there is no good way to tell you how to do it other than to say it needs to be very rigid and strong. If you can grab the engine and move it at all… it will get torn from the truck on the first flip. My mounts are extruded 3/16” aluminum. Here’s pics from both of my engines so you can get an idea of what I did. Also, take time to line up the engine. This will cut down on wear and tare.
OK… hooking the engine to the trany. I went direct drive on mine. First of all, this gets rid of the exposed gear. And because this type of engine only spins up to about 10,000 RPM’s… you don’t need the other reduction. Here again… no easy way to tell you how to do it, so here are some pics. I did however, leave some slop in the holes around the bolts that do the coupleing. This alows the engine to be slightly misaligned and not bind while its spinning.
OK… the last thing about the drive train. Since the trany is now mounted backwards… AND if you have a CCW running engine… if you try to drive your truck, it will only run in reverse!! But, the solution to this is very easy. The differentials in this truck are symmetrical. So, all you have to do is pull the rear diff housing out of the truck, and flip it upside-down. That’s it… simple. Bolt it back together and your done. (if you have a CW running engine, you won’t have to do this)
OK… the rest is just rigging. And… if you’ve come this far, I shouldn’t have to tell you how to hook up the breaks, run a throttle cable, or mount a servo. Besides, there are enough pics to let you see what I did.
If you have anymore questions, please post them here.
04-20-2005, 12:01 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
That engine really has a 'different' sound to it. Really reminds me of a weed trimmer. [8D]
Seems you got a nice bashing area, get some ramps going!
Seems you got a nice bashing area, get some ramps going!
04-24-2005, 02:27 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
very nice, would be nice to see if you could hook that 4w to a fg monster truck or beetle, since fg is taking so long with there's
05-22-2005, 09:16 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
hey i was wonderin if i got the motor and some spare parts (plus a whole t maxx with everything but stock engine) together do you think you could build one for me for like 175 to 230 what do u think please i want one of these really bad
05-23-2005, 01:09 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
WOW! That is sweet. I had my doubts in the begging of this thread but after watching those videos! Man, that thing looks fast and torquey! I love it. Too bad you couldn't make it 4wd! That would have been AWESOME! It would probly mean extending the chassis another couple of inches. I love that you managed to fit the body on and hide everything. Do it bottom out much? What oil are you using in your shocks?
06-02-2005, 07:54 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Thats proper good, you've gotta really be with it to do something like that.
Iv converted an electric powered OAP mobility scooter into a Gas Powered
one but wasn't too safe. That wasn't too hard but working on such a small scale must have been quite difficult
Iv converted an electric powered OAP mobility scooter into a Gas Powered
one but wasn't too safe. That wasn't too hard but working on such a small scale must have been quite difficult
06-06-2005, 02:45 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Hey Mr. Honda, nice work, can you put more pictures of your frankesteins? i want to build a LST with this kind of engines
07-06-2005, 11:13 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Hey Dr Honda could you please please please build me one of the maxx gassers. I would build one but i dont have any of the tools to make it. I really want one. You name the price, and ill get the truck, but not the engine because i wouldn't know what to get. Please pm me or preaferably e-mail me at [email protected]
08-05-2005, 09:00 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Dr. Honda:
That is really a Nice Gasser Maxx... I have a similar design but instead of the trimmer engine I have thouse Italians Compagnucci engines (The .39 one) any ways, my question is: are you using reverse? if so how does it work?
That is really a Nice Gasser Maxx... I have a similar design but instead of the trimmer engine I have thouse Italians Compagnucci engines (The .39 one) any ways, my question is: are you using reverse? if so how does it work?
08-05-2005, 11:36 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
link to rcpics is dead for me, nothing on page but advertisements.
Could someone perhaps give me a better link, I am very interested in this project.
Could someone perhaps give me a better link, I am very interested in this project.
08-06-2005, 07:04 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Hi All,
Wow… I figured this thread was dead. (it’s old) But I guess it will get new life since some one didn’t like it over in the Large scale section. But… I will still answer any questions people may have.
R3 Team...
No… I’m not running reverse. First… the S-maxx didn’t come with reverse in the trans… But, I built a second truck around a T-Maxx, and I felt that the reversing system was weak. Basically, if you look at it, the gears are not engaged at all. It has to spin to sling out the sprag that will engage forward or reverse. If you spun up a weed eater engine to 2000 or 3000 RPM (high enough to engage the system) the inertia of the flywheel would rip out the gears. On your Compagnucci engine… there isn’t a big flywheel… so you could get it to work if you wanted to. You would just have to make up new servo linkage.
wl6...
The vids were dropped over in the original place… I reposted them on putfile.com.
You can see them here.
Click here to watch -Maxx-gasser-small
Click here to watch Maxx-Pit-Stop-small
Wow… I figured this thread was dead. (it’s old) But I guess it will get new life since some one didn’t like it over in the Large scale section. But… I will still answer any questions people may have.
R3 Team...
No… I’m not running reverse. First… the S-maxx didn’t come with reverse in the trans… But, I built a second truck around a T-Maxx, and I felt that the reversing system was weak. Basically, if you look at it, the gears are not engaged at all. It has to spin to sling out the sprag that will engage forward or reverse. If you spun up a weed eater engine to 2000 or 3000 RPM (high enough to engage the system) the inertia of the flywheel would rip out the gears. On your Compagnucci engine… there isn’t a big flywheel… so you could get it to work if you wanted to. You would just have to make up new servo linkage.
wl6...
The vids were dropped over in the original place… I reposted them on putfile.com.
You can see them here.
Click here to watch -Maxx-gasser-small
Click here to watch Maxx-Pit-Stop-small
08-06-2005, 07:23 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Thanks Dr Honda for the link.
Cool maxx gasser, and good built notes!!!!!
Is the stock S-Maxx gears able to stand up to the torque? And is 4wd out of the question?
Lets see if this will start a Frankenstein Thread.
If I still had a nitro truck, I would be stripping it for a build.
Cool maxx gasser, and good built notes!!!!!
Is the stock S-Maxx gears able to stand up to the torque? And is 4wd out of the question?
Lets see if this will start a Frankenstein Thread.
If I still had a nitro truck, I would be stripping it for a build.
08-06-2005, 07:35 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
wl6...
The Maxx Gasser isn’t 4wd. And… on this short of a chassis, it would be very hard. But, not impossible. Since the trany was moved forward… the front output of the trans is above the input of where the front diff would be. So… instead of using a drive shaft… you would have to use a set of gears, or a small chain to drive the front end. I didn’t feel like going threw all that work. Besides… the S-Maxx is only a 2wd from the factory, so I would have to spend the $$$ to get the parts from the T-Maxx.
Now… on that note… I built another truck from a T-Maxx. I call it the Mega-Maxx. It’s 4wd, and stretched to a full 1/5th scale size.
I’ve been beating on this truck for a few months… But I never painted the body. For some reason… people like the look of the “Sand rail”. Since the FG Baja bug body is over $100… I may just make a simple cover for the nose, and let the roll cage, and engine be exposed.
The Maxx Gasser isn’t 4wd. And… on this short of a chassis, it would be very hard. But, not impossible. Since the trany was moved forward… the front output of the trans is above the input of where the front diff would be. So… instead of using a drive shaft… you would have to use a set of gears, or a small chain to drive the front end. I didn’t feel like going threw all that work. Besides… the S-Maxx is only a 2wd from the factory, so I would have to spend the $$$ to get the parts from the T-Maxx.
Now… on that note… I built another truck from a T-Maxx. I call it the Mega-Maxx. It’s 4wd, and stretched to a full 1/5th scale size.
I’ve been beating on this truck for a few months… But I never painted the body. For some reason… people like the look of the “Sand rail”. Since the FG Baja bug body is over $100… I may just make a simple cover for the nose, and let the roll cage, and engine be exposed.
08-06-2005, 08:01 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
I realize the s maxx was 2wd, just wondering the possibilities of 4wd.
How about some Mega Maxx up close photos.
Keep up the good work.
How about some Mega Maxx up close photos.
Keep up the good work.
08-06-2005, 01:29 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
hey dr. honda i got two words for you FUJI ENGINES. take a look at this. i will pay you twenty bucks just to build this.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGMP5&P=7
8 hp @ 9000 rpm
that insain soooo much torque. [>:][>:][>:]
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGMP5&P=7
8 hp @ 9000 rpm
that insain soooo much torque. [>:][>:][>:]
08-10-2005, 05:20 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
jeez, thats an awsome ass truck. do u have any vids of the megamaxx, cuz i really wanna see it in action, so it would be sweet if you posted a linkfor some vids
08-12-2005, 10:21 PM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Have You looked at the Hot Bodies Lightning GT truck for the possibility of making a gasser with 4wd?(big flat chassis and incredibly wide a-arms) If cost was not an issue what motors would you use? Shindaiwa? Echo? Sthil? Is there anything that will work under 19cc? I have a Leopard and an MT-5 but I want a 4wd bashable MT. Have you considered a Savage by spreading the tvps(frame plates)?
08-15-2005, 11:52 AM
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RE: Maxx Gasser Build Notes (Gas S-Maxx Conversion) Pics, Vid
Hi,
cooptroop6969...
Yes... I have one vid of the Mega Maxx running. I will try to get it re-posted tonight after work.
chowderhead72...
The Mega Maxx is 4wd. But... I will soon be looking at a few other trucks to see if they can be converted. (LST, Monster GT, ... ) I will put the Lightning on my list.
As far as engines go... Shindaiwa and Echo are both made by Zenoah. So is the Toro Engine I have in the Mega. (25cc "Stratocharged" ) The small 19cc engine is a Mitsubishi, and it is VERY compact. I don't think that Zenoah makes anything of that size any more... so because of that... money isn't even a factor if you want to try an build a Maxx Gasser. You need a small engine. Now, on the Mega... I'm fitting a normal RC23 type of Zenoah to a new chassis. ($300) But to be honest... the $150 echo weed eater engines, are just as good as the "Hobby Grade" engines.
cooptroop6969...
Yes... I have one vid of the Mega Maxx running. I will try to get it re-posted tonight after work.
chowderhead72...
The Mega Maxx is 4wd. But... I will soon be looking at a few other trucks to see if they can be converted. (LST, Monster GT, ... ) I will put the Lightning on my list.
As far as engines go... Shindaiwa and Echo are both made by Zenoah. So is the Toro Engine I have in the Mega. (25cc "Stratocharged" ) The small 19cc engine is a Mitsubishi, and it is VERY compact. I don't think that Zenoah makes anything of that size any more... so because of that... money isn't even a factor if you want to try an build a Maxx Gasser. You need a small engine. Now, on the Mega... I'm fitting a normal RC23 type of Zenoah to a new chassis. ($300) But to be honest... the $150 echo weed eater engines, are just as good as the "Hobby Grade" engines.