gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks Joe!

Well after cutting the front fairing on the Fiesta body and glueing the plastic mesh in I noticed the bumper blocks part of the intake, which I figured it would. I had some larger lexan pieces left over from some bodies I had cutout. To mount the first piece Iloosen the front bumper screws and slid the piece under the bracket then tightened the screws down to hold the lexan in place. I then cut it out around the servo to make it look good. I poked two holes in the lexan where it goes over the shocks and tie wrapped it around one of the shocks to hold it down. So the air is more directed over the chassis to the motor and ESC. The other piece on the side I am considering removing as it gets in the way a little. But I am not sure yet...but I cut some tabs in the lexan and slid it down into the holes by the battery door. I did that hoping the air would circulate around the ESC more since it is over to the side. Not sure how well it will work? My first test run with the pieces in place seemed to lower the temps a little as Ipreviously posted. I might still add some holes in the rear of the body for exhaust but not sure where yet.

Just like my Merv I was just trying to get some better airflow to keep the electronics cooler. The stock bodies that come on these minis have no airflow at all. So if you are going to run lipos or dual batteries your electronics are going to heat up unless you make some changes.

MD6

Here's a picture of my rally before it's first race. At our local parking lot race Saturday we had nine cars in our heat with a round about and a cross over section.

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Great job on the paint scheme! Really like it! Sounds like a lot of fun and hope you did well in the race.

ozzy9039

My Feedback: (6)

WOW great job MD6!

MD6

Thanks. I have to be honest. A lot of what you see are decals. I finished third in the first heat and fifth in the second. My throttle control wasn't as good in the second heat.. The Mains were rained out. I found three things. When running on road tires are key as with any car, run with a battery on each side for balance with only one plugged in, and I need to reduce the pinion size since mine is a converted 1/16 Slash.

J0EC00L

My Feedback: (3)

Gforce,

I have an idea to test your theory out. In lieu of a water tunnel or true wind tunnel to test out the airflow of your lexan project, you may be able to get a clear rally body down the road and install that so you can see inside the car. Then, figure out a way to place the car in a box wide enough and long enough to either have a fan on facing the car or outside the box with holes in it to allow the forced air into the car. Finally, either get some blue chalk dust or powder and either "lightly powder" or release the colored powder in the air so that the fan can force it into your inlets o. The car to witness how the powder dust flows over the lexan and over the electronics. It may be a bit messy and all, but would give you colored proof of your air flow.

Another way would be to release smoke behind the fan and see how that travels. May could get a colored smoke bomb from a fireworks stand and see how that fares, but smoke may be difficult to control. If only there was a "mythbusters" in your area

Still, you have a great concept.

Joe

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

MD6,

Are you running the stock rally tires or slicks? I have the stock rally tires and it's impossible to corner without spinning out or drifting. I have been looking into getting some street tread for more precise cornering. Also I have the stock spur and pinion 45/28 that came in my car. But ordered a 31t pinon to increase the speed. But yes for racing where you dont need the overall top speed, instead more power for cornering and accelerating it would be best to reduce your pinion size.

Joecool,

You have some unique ideas there. I will have to think about it. I definitely plan to have more than one body for my Rally and keeping the electronics cool is always a priority.

MD6

am using the basic HPI X-patterns with the stock inserts. I have the stock pinion for the 1/16 scale Slash which I think is 31t. It's way too fast. I tried X-patterns wit the pro compound and I was traction rolling. I found that I need the car to break traction a little especially in the front of the car or it traction rolls. I had my car on a car stand and with the 31t pinion you can see the tires distort. So, I will definitely install a smaller pinion. I also installed sway bars from Hot Racing in the front. They work pretty well, but the instructions are terrible.

J0EC00L

My Feedback: (3)

This is to Matt,

I was able to get a like new Airtronics M11 Dsss 2.4 gHz transmitter and a 92724 2.4ghz receiver for 155.00 off eBay. It still has screen protector on and original box is in excellent condition, which is why I said like new.

I had a hard time finding an FM variant of the transmitter. Is the M11 capable of both? Or, if it's already 2.4, it can't go down or I guess maybe "up" to FM frequency?

It hasn't arrived yet, but looks mint from the photos. I need to do some more research on these after I get it, but I am assuming I got a good deal on a great transmitter/receiver.

Joe

J0EC00L

My Feedback: (3)

In regards to the airtronics M11, WOW! There are so many options and configurations built into the transmitter, it's crazy. You can dial in throttle, braking, anti-lock braking, servo, EVERYTHING except changing the color of your car

I really like how you can dial in a multitude of settings for turning left or right, in addition to determining different end points for left or right.

I read the manual and it would seem that there are more settings to tinker with in just the throttle alone, than all the different transmitters I have previously owned - including all their options.

Matt, you were completely right about how important a truly good transmitter really is. Once I figure out the best settings for my truck in both onroad and offroad, I'll maybe be able to start really dialing in some sensitive settings for different track/road conditions. First things first, learning the controller and starting off with a decent baseline of settings.

I'd really like to dial in a setting that links my throttle curve to my steering sensitivity. The faster I am accelerating or moving, the slower/softer I want the steering; that way I don't flip over at high speeds. I am sure the M11 can easily do that.

Joe

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Pro-line just came out with a new body for the 1/16 Rally! 2012 Ford Focus. It's looks good, although it looks alot like the Fiesta and stock bodies that come on the Rally already. I might consider it as a replacement body once my other one wears out. But at least this means aftermarket manufacturers are starting think about the 1/16 Rally. Hopefully there will be more to come.

model12

My Feedback: (1)

Well I just got one to play with, one day I will grow up I told the wife I'm ony 52 years young lol any way was looking for some info on this rally car.
1 what are some of the best up grades to do to it.
2 there is not much air going in to this car so does it make a difference if you open up the front or some hole in the window.
3 does any one have hot set up they are willing to share or are they good out of the box.
4 what parts fit this car the slash looks the same just a slash body lol can one use other part on it and if so what part are the same with these little 1/16 cars
thanks for any help guys
Rick

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Never too old for R/Cs! I'm almost 41 and my collection of cars keeps growing.

1. Not sure, I still have mine stock as nothing has broken on it. Debating whether to go with 1/10 electronics like I did with my fully modded Mini Revo.
2. Correct, the first issue I noticed was how hot my motor and ESC got. I cut the front air-dam out and inserted plastic mesh. It has improved some but will probably add some more air flow. The biggest problem with all of the 1/16 Traxxas is air flow, all of the stock bodies fit so snug and have little air flow. So adding holes will only help any heat issues.

3. Mine seems alright out of the box, it does handle better once the tires get scuffed up a little. Also I had to make some camber adjustments as it didn't come adjusted correctly. Depending if you want to drift or corner well, you can upgrade tires. But for just messing around it will scream down the street. Getting up to full speed is a little tricky, but with some throttle control and easing into it you can without spinning out.

4. All of the 1/16 Traxxas are the same as far as chassis and differential housings go. The Rally and Slash share the same a-arms, axles and links. The only real difference is body mounting posts, bumpers, shocks and wheels/tires. And of course they are geared differently with different sized pinion/spur gears. So most of the upgrade parts (ie aluminum toe/tie rods, a-arms) for the Slash will fit the Rally/Mustang/Fiesta or Kyle Busch Truck.

Hope this has helped. Good luck!

model12

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the info any one have there 2 cents lol
Rick

J0EC00L

My Feedback: (3)

Quick question to anyone smart with these Traxxas radios. I am selling my airtronics M11 and goin back to regular Traxxas transmitter. I don't need all the functions the radio has so I'll just go back to stock. Anyways, I was wanting to know if I got the 3ch transmitter that is typically sold with the summit and e-maxx. It has that red toggle switch and I wonder if that actually controls the third channel? Or, is it simply for reverse? I want to be able to turn on a set of LEDs wired into the receiver and do it at the transmitter - is this possible?

Thanks.

Joe

scoped

Hey guys,

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Yes, it is pretty much the same car. The Rally, Ken Block, Mustang, Fiesta and Kyle Busch truck are pretty much all the same under the body. The only difference is that the Ken Block edition has green tie/toe rods, wheels and bad ***** looking body.

I have a regular Rally and it drifts okay. It seems the tires need to get scuffed up and used a little before it has good traction. So a new one out of the box will just spin out alot.

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Thoughts....

I got a 1/10 Castle system on trade, it's a Mamba Max Pro ESC and 7700kv BL motor. I am thinking of making my 1/16 Rally a big block like my Mini Revo (MMP/4900kv). Should I get a motor plate adapter and put that system in my Rally or should I save it for some other project? My Rally is fun right now but the stock VXL system gets really hot after a few minutes on only 2S lipo, so looking to have it run cooler also see if it would even go faster!!!

ptr727

Hi, after 20 years away from RC cars I want to get back, and I think the Ken Block edition would be a great starter for me.
What LiPo batteries would you recommend, preferably the cheaper ones like the Turnigy LiPo or NanoTech from HobbyKing?

Thx
P.

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

I have been using some flightmax lipos i got from hobbyking for over the past year. Have had no problems and they still perform like the day I got them. I use them in my Merv and Rally. For the price I will definitely get more.

ptr727

Thx for the info, can you give a link to the exact model on the HK site?

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

Sorry, I would but I am on my phone. The model is Flightmax 1600 2s 20C lipo. They fit tight like alot of lipos and some battery door trimming might be needed. Also when shopping for batteries I read the reviews and see what others are using them in. That is how I knew these would work in the mini revo. You can go by the dimensions they provide but those aren't always accurate.

scoped

what size batteries can fit in these?

gforce2448

My Feedback: (12)

They use the same 2/3 size batteries as the mini revo uses.

It doesn't drift well out of the box but is very fast and fun to drive. For serious drifting I am sure there is something better. I think with the right setup and tires it has the potential to be either a good road course car or drifter.

MD6