Frozen72

I did some googling and I leaned that it's possible for me to anodize alloy myself. I'm going to do some more reading tomorrow and if I think it possible I'll give it a go on my alloy battery strap. I'll get lots of pictures if other people would like to try also.

JPerrone

Mini-Baja upgrades-dual slipper; CVD; ball diff.

With wife and kid away for awhile I have enough time to do "my stuff"; first on the list some MiniBaja upgrades. First on the list: Ball diff, CVD, dual slipper.
All went in fine and worked ok; but need to do extensive field testing still. Some observations:

Ball Diff; no issues here, although the left outdrive is a bit loose and kept falling out. In hindsight I should have put a little bit of thick grease on it, that would have held it in place. The Losi ball diff comes with a rubber o-ring that goes into the outdrive; the CVD comes with a spring. Not sure that both should be used together, ie, one or the other. I used both, I'll check occassionally on this.

CVD: went together fine, no issues here.

Twin disc slipper; this one was interesting. I got the Mini-T twin disc, thinking Mini T and Mini Baja are same in that area; but I don't think that they are. The included space would put the spur gear so far out it won't mesh with the pinion!!! So, I left it off. The pinion is deeper than the spur, and the stock spur meshes with the pinion very close to the differential case. On the twin disc set-up, without the spacer, the new spur engages as far away from the differential case as possible. Which is fine; just different
There is a long bolt that attaches the differential case to the suspension tower; this requires installation of the motor/drive train prior to installation of the clear plastic cover, or drilling of a hole large enough for the head of the long bolt to pass through. The later would weaken this case, so I installed motor/drive train, then the clear case.


First test run done with all parts installed; not the usual way I do things but I wasn't in the mood to reassemble, test, disassemble, test, etc. Put it on the ground; doesn't move, just hums. Hmmm, what's this all about? I tried the easiest thing to do; loosen up the slipper. That took care of it. It seems to be a bit more "connected", ie, responds a bit quicker to speed input. Since I didn't test each system separately, I don't know which part is the source of this. Maybe I'll do an individual install/test on the other Mini I have and provide update.

One observation about all of the upgrades: parts on 1/18th are SMALL. Expecially the CVD hex lock screw and springs. I have a re-build kit for the ball diff, with a bunch of VERY SMALL ball bearings. I took one look at that (ordered over internet, not bought at shop) and said "yeah, RIGHT. That'll never happen!" The Traxxas Rustler, Tamiya Pumpkin I have are both looking better...

Next Upgrade: LiPo battery. Received this but the battery charger came without connections, so got to do some soldering first. Will upgrade connections to Traxxas at same time (got them on other vehicles, so I'm standardizing on them).

Alex73

The chassis is almost finished, it has turned out really rough looking, due to an idiot at work. Not happy about that but it is done now.
I have made a top plate that attaches to the front of the chassis meaning i don't need a chassis brace.
Will take some pics soon, when its done.

Still waiting for the motor, can't wait for it to get here.

LIVipers

Alex- Sounds really cool, can't wait to get pics of the chassis.

My shocks came today. Now all I need is my Turnbuckles and i have a complete roller. Also, has anyone tried the GPM Anti-Roll bar? If so how does it affect the handling of the car.

Alex73

Thanks, the finish is a bit rubbish on it but overall its good and functional.

I was wondering about the Anti-roll bar the other day, i am curious as well. i love ordering all the parts and building it up, makes it more fun to run i think.

rmoetken

I dunno how the sway bar does in the mini baja but, I got them in my mmb and turn handeling is amazing! I'd think it would be somewhat simular in the mini.

I got yet another question, I got a ball diff in my mini and when I give it full throttle and the front wheels actually stay on the ground at higher speed it makes this almost grinding/whinning sound..any ideas?

Frozen72

The diff is probably to loose tighten it a tad and it should fix it.

rmoetken

Okay well I'll go give that a try. Be back to see if that was the problem

rmoetken

K well that helped but, I can still hear the noise...you think it could just be my motor maxxin out?

Frozen72

It might still be slipping. Is your slipper set?

rmoetken

Yeah I got it set to where theres little slip.

LIVipers

When was the last time you rebuilt your diff? Some of the parts might be worn if you have used the diff for a long time. Also do you have the dual disk slipper? If so then you might want to replace the slipper pads if you can't get the car to stop slipping even when tightening. I have found this to work with my xxx cr and i am sure it will work with the mini's as well.

rmoetken

I haven't actually never rebuilt my diff but, I'm gonna order a rebuild kit here soon and I'm only using a stock slipper set up for the time being.

Frozen72

When you are rebuilding the diff put the balls in a container so that you don't loose them.

Alex73

I have wieghed the chassis and top plate and it is 53g heavier, which is not bad, considering how much stronger it is.
Also that is not including the weight of the plastic top plate, so problobly only around 45g heavier.

LIVipers

Here are a couple of pics of my newly finished race roller.

Deftones123

I would get some allot rear hubs, you are going to be breaking them like crazy racing

Alex73

that looks so cool.
what motor will you be running?
how much does it weigh? with wheels

Deftones123

meant alloy lol if you get rear ended going full speed with the plastic rear hubs, they break easy

Frozen72

Nice Mini-T I just need some CVD's, Exotek Chassis, and a new motor system.

Alex73

lol, won't be much left off the original truck. Just kidding. I have not spent out on gear box parts but i soon want to get cvd's, mip ball diff and dual slipper.

flat6

My Feedback: (5)

I just picked up a mini t. Can anyone recommend what wheel bearings to run in these things. I dont have much to spend but I have seen so many variations from 5.99 set on ebay to 89.99 set elsewhere.

Thanks everyone.

Also, would you recommend getting some type of metal hubs before i put the bearings in??

Deftones123

rear metal hubs, I break tons of the stock ones

LIVipers

Flat6- Do not get the $90 bearings for tehy only seem like a waste of money to me. Just get the Team Losi ones because they supply the best performance in my opinion.

Alex- I am going to run the Mamba Micro Pro 6800KV with a 7.4v 1250Mah battery.

Deftones- I will pick up a pair when i break them. i was trying to keep the weight down which is why i went with the plastics first.

Alex73

Don't worry about the extra weight of the hubs.
I added: front/rear alloy hubs, allot c's and alloy steering assembly and bearings. This only added 5g. Which for a 500g car, 1% extra you will not notice, certainly with the mamba.
I can't wait for that set up to arrive (ordered the same as you). Should be good.