Combatpigg's 1903 wright flyer
10-21-2015, 04:14 PM
#126
Thanks for the vote of confidence..!
Let's have some fun with this project and keep the ideas coming. I enjoy all of the input.
It's like being at an All You Can Eat buffet with the suggestions that are rolling in.
I picked up some 1/4" I.D. bearings today. They look pretty huge, but I'll go ahead and make a prop drive assembly with them.
I'm thinking that 3/16" bearings might be enough for aluminum shafts. All I can do is try different things that are within normal reach of my capabilities [and budget].
Let's have some fun with this project and keep the ideas coming. I enjoy all of the input.
It's like being at an All You Can Eat buffet with the suggestions that are rolling in.
I picked up some 1/4" I.D. bearings today. They look pretty huge, but I'll go ahead and make a prop drive assembly with them.
I'm thinking that 3/16" bearings might be enough for aluminum shafts. All I can do is try different things that are within normal reach of my capabilities [and budget].
10-21-2015, 05:28 PM
#127
Yes 1/4th would only be worth using for the center main the prop axles could do just fine with 3/16th I bet.
Could go with a blend 1/4th OD carbon tube with an aluminum core for holding grub screws.
Could go with a blend 1/4th OD carbon tube with an aluminum core for holding grub screws.
10-21-2015, 05:51 PM
#128
The hard part about using ball bearings is arriving at the perfect interference fit on the O.D and the I.D..
I've got to stop machining the shaft before going too far and painstakingly creep up on a snug fit with sandpaper.
Needless to say an experienced hand could show me how to take some of the trial & error out of it.
The framework for the new & improved Power Plant is going to be something other than the aluminum angle for the sake of saving maybe a little something.
I've got to stop machining the shaft before going too far and painstakingly creep up on a snug fit with sandpaper.
Needless to say an experienced hand could show me how to take some of the trial & error out of it.
The framework for the new & improved Power Plant is going to be something other than the aluminum angle for the sake of saving maybe a little something.
10-23-2015, 01:30 PM
#129
The model is framed as far as I can go until the new power plant gets built.
The object is to establish a "Ballast Free" CG while designing on the fly.
I made this undercarriage longer than the first try and the main runners are 1/8" x 1/4" spruce. I've made an effort to make everything on this 2nd attempt lighter than before and the most crucial [and most fun] stage will be developing the lighter and more powerful powerplant.
The object is to establish a "Ballast Free" CG while designing on the fly.
I made this undercarriage longer than the first try and the main runners are 1/8" x 1/4" spruce. I've made an effort to make everything on this 2nd attempt lighter than before and the most crucial [and most fun] stage will be developing the lighter and more powerful powerplant.
10-23-2015, 09:44 PM
#131
I should slop some Balsa Rite or clear dope on it. The elevators are only 1/16" balsa, so it wouldn't take much dampness to make them curl.
Right now I'm trying to fit a 3/16" ball bearing into the snout of a .049 reedie case.
So far I've only ruined 2 cranks.
I made a "piloted reamer" to install the bearing into the case..on the first try...!
The 3/16" ID bearing has a 5/16" OD, so you can see it's pretty compact. It's a Traxxis car part.
It's got a little blue seal that I suppose ought to be left on the prop side but possibly removed on the engine side..? I might also need to cut a channel so that it can be internally lubricated.
Right now I'm trying to fit a 3/16" ball bearing into the snout of a .049 reedie case.
So far I've only ruined 2 cranks.
I made a "piloted reamer" to install the bearing into the case..on the first try...!
The 3/16" ID bearing has a 5/16" OD, so you can see it's pretty compact. It's a Traxxis car part.
It's got a little blue seal that I suppose ought to be left on the prop side but possibly removed on the engine side..? I might also need to cut a channel so that it can be internally lubricated.
10-24-2015, 12:04 AM
#133
This is the case for the engine...!
I'm hoping it will reduce some friction.
I ended up sanding the forward part of the shaft to fit the bearing.
I made a split collar so that the rear of the crank could be clamped in the lathe chuck and I used a Live Center to keep the snout of the crank running true. The original shaft dia. was .2175" and now it's .196" to slip into the bearing.
I should be able to make the prop bearing blocks tomorrow once I get the drill press Trued Up for precision work.
I'm hoping it will reduce some friction.
I ended up sanding the forward part of the shaft to fit the bearing.
I made a split collar so that the rear of the crank could be clamped in the lathe chuck and I used a Live Center to keep the snout of the crank running true. The original shaft dia. was .2175" and now it's .196" to slip into the bearing.
I should be able to make the prop bearing blocks tomorrow once I get the drill press Trued Up for precision work.
10-25-2015, 03:55 PM
#134
This is what I've got to show for the weekend [besides fitting the .049 with a ball bearing.].
The 5mm shafts are aluminum, the pulleys Delrin and the bearing blocks are oak.
The 5mm Traxxas bearings are Locktited into aluminum plates and screwed to either end of the wood blocks.
I'm using 2-56 screws to pin the pulleys to the shafts.
The props are a nice tight fit on the shafts, but I'll make 5mm nuts out of aluminum to secure the props.
Next, I'll make a new drive pulley out of Delrin [which weighs less than half of aluminum.].
The .049 engine runs a 5 x3 at 18,000 with a low comp head, so at least it didn't get messed up from the bearing installation work. If it helps under load, then that will be nice.
The 5mm shafts are aluminum, the pulleys Delrin and the bearing blocks are oak.
The 5mm Traxxas bearings are Locktited into aluminum plates and screwed to either end of the wood blocks.
I'm using 2-56 screws to pin the pulleys to the shafts.
The props are a nice tight fit on the shafts, but I'll make 5mm nuts out of aluminum to secure the props.
Next, I'll make a new drive pulley out of Delrin [which weighs less than half of aluminum.].
The .049 engine runs a 5 x3 at 18,000 with a low comp head, so at least it didn't get messed up from the bearing installation work. If it helps under load, then that will be nice.
Last edited by combatpigg; 10-25-2015 at 03:58 PM.
10-26-2015, 09:30 AM
#139
You should chime in here with your projects from time to time...!
Her inventory continues to steadily shrink until she closes her doors for the last time.
I think the last items to go will be those $50 sheets of 1/64" plywood...?
10-26-2015, 09:34 AM
#140
The basic airframe will fly with enough power, so hopefully this one will be able to survive several test launches until the right combo is found.
I'm having trouble making a Delrin engine pulley that runs true.
It might be asking too much from this material.
The aluminum piece weighs .6 ozs, so there is motivation to make a Delrin replacement.
Last edited by combatpigg; 10-26-2015 at 09:38 AM.
10-27-2015, 12:27 PM
#141
Here is the new powerplant and it weighs 5.2 ozs...a full oz less than the other one and it only took 3.5 days to get this far.
I'll rig a spot for a balloon tank and fuel proof it.
The drive pulley is .425" now and the driven pulleys are still 1.100" so the new ratio is 2.58 : 1
The engine will either run with it or not, if not it's easy to cut the drive pulley grooves deeper.
The propellor bearing blocks turn easier than the empty Cox cases did, so I'm hoping that some wasted HP has been freed up.
Pinning the nylon pulleys to the aluminum shafts with 2-56 screws might not have been smart. I could have used a press fit music wire of much less diameter instead. The holes in the shafts for the 2-56 screws cuts the inner third out of each shaft. Props might go flying if something breaks..!
I'll rig a spot for a balloon tank and fuel proof it.
The drive pulley is .425" now and the driven pulleys are still 1.100" so the new ratio is 2.58 : 1
The engine will either run with it or not, if not it's easy to cut the drive pulley grooves deeper.
Pinning the nylon pulleys to the aluminum shafts with 2-56 screws might not have been smart. I could have used a press fit music wire of much less diameter instead. The holes in the shafts for the 2-56 screws cuts the inner third out of each shaft. Props might go flying if something breaks..!
10-27-2015, 04:32 PM
#142
147.42g and what was the air frame weight thus far?
You managed to squeak out 17k with the 5x3
Last setup had got you 6300 if I recall.
So what about 5,900 rpm at the props unloaded?
4.5P for 25 mph should be a sweeeeaty to
watch ticking along.
You managed to squeak out 17k with the 5x3
Last setup had got you 6300 if I recall.
So what about 5,900 rpm at the props unloaded?
4.5P for 25 mph should be a sweeeeaty to
watch ticking along.
10-27-2015, 06:08 PM
#144
The gross squares of the wings vs weight gets your minimum flying speed what that is will require every drop of the 4.5 pitch do to the low rpms. 3P at 6300 is 17.9 mph. I use to fly indoor for a few years making all sorts of low rpm thrust monsters. Once they go outside into the wind some speed is in order so I would change gear ratios. 2:1 with electrics and 2.5:1 was norm to chew through even light breezes. My outdoor fav was 2.5:1 with a GWS 6x5
10-27-2015, 10:09 PM
#146
Well its all about watts in and rpm or kv. per volt vs the great outdoors. Indoors temps are warmer which reduces lift. The up swing is the breeze is down to ventilation fans in Gyms and prop wash from other planes. Your reed engine is good for around 65w this is enough power for the job no doubt about it. If a typical flying day is in 8 to small gusts of 14 mph winds you just have to keep the ratio set to slip through and track up wind as needed. High pitch props tend to function best 4P to 7P with the 7P you can jump up to 6:1 or cut the props down to 4:1 ratios. Should be interesting with your detail work to reduce wasted load what you tach the props at now.
Here is a pic of the big foamie flown indoors and out DD 400 can motor and geared 280 can motor (indoors)
Also did carbon rod thin rip stop nylon designs the tear drop version was fast with minimal gearing on a 15w can motor any shallow dive would flatten out the material and have it slipping on grease instant turbo charge.
Here is a pic of the big foamie flown indoors and out DD 400 can motor and geared 280 can motor (indoors)
Also did carbon rod thin rip stop nylon designs the tear drop version was fast with minimal gearing on a 15w can motor any shallow dive would flatten out the material and have it slipping on grease instant turbo charge.
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 10-27-2015 at 10:12 PM.
10-30-2015, 02:33 PM
#148
Inching closer to the finish line...........
This one is turning out slightly less tail heavy than the first one did.
I glassed the elevators with 2 oz cloth and medium CA.
If I need to add weight up front, might as well make some of it structural.
I'll be making an extension up front to shelve the battery....basically to avoid using any lead ballast.
I used a heat gun to bend these bamboo runners and it took less than a minute to get it done
This one is turning out slightly less tail heavy than the first one did.
I glassed the elevators with 2 oz cloth and medium CA.
If I need to add weight up front, might as well make some of it structural.
I'll be making an extension up front to shelve the battery....basically to avoid using any lead ballast.
10-30-2015, 03:38 PM
#149
Here it is RTF at 17.2 ozs.
The first one was 21 ozs, so I'm happy with the result so far.
Instead of running down to the field Half Cocked this afternoon,
it would be smart to play with different props to find possible candidates that will work.
The first one was 21 ozs, so I'm happy with the result so far.
Instead of running down to the field Half Cocked this afternoon,
10-30-2015, 04:18 PM
#150
Awesome sauce wtg wtg wtg... it looks like she ah gonna fly further than the other version. If all goes well perhaps you can add a throttle sleeve for some slow passes during low wind conditions. Are you going to prep the bare balsa or does it have balsa rite on it? She gonna soak up some oil and get heavy if not. Big weight savings almost 4oz!!! And a wing that will lift much better than the first. What rpm are you getting at the 4.5P props?
Last edited by Pond Skipper; 10-30-2015 at 04:21 PM.