1/2A starter.
06-29-2017, 06:24 PM
#27
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06-30-2017, 03:42 AM
#28
the Miller and the Hornet are both good-within their application range-but you're not comparing apples with apples-the Hornet is really an '06-15' sized starter whereas the Miller is a true '1/2A and smaller' starter-where the Miller scores is that it has specific moulded inserts for 010, 020 and 05 sizes (the 05 one being double ended like the large full size starters, for either a prop nut or spinner. A lot of the issues with small starters seem to occur because the rubber inserts are not appropriately sized-and people have trouble centreing an oversized insert. I tend to use my Miller for the small stuff and the Hornet for 09, 10 and 12s-it will even handle a 'cooking' 15 without protest....but I would not expect it to handle a high compression 15 like a Rossi or Nelson.
Personally I think anyone who could reintroduce something like the Fusite Stinger I mentioned previously would be onto a real winner-it was so natural to use-like holding a chicken stick or torch-and with modern Lipos-which are available in hardcase, cylindrical formats (though not often seen in hobby use in this format) youd have 7.4-8.2V available to the motor (which I assume-never having seen one in the flesh) was a 380 sized brushed unit-something like a Graupner Speed 400-which were as most here will recall-available in 4.8, 6 and 7.2V windings.....in fact the more I think about it-the more I think that it would be not too difficult to knock up a homemade equivalent using a bit of PVC plumbing pipe as the housing...and you can get matching PVC end caps to make the job easier, as well
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
Personally I think anyone who could reintroduce something like the Fusite Stinger I mentioned previously would be onto a real winner-it was so natural to use-like holding a chicken stick or torch-and with modern Lipos-which are available in hardcase, cylindrical formats (though not often seen in hobby use in this format) youd have 7.4-8.2V available to the motor (which I assume-never having seen one in the flesh) was a 380 sized brushed unit-something like a Graupner Speed 400-which were as most here will recall-available in 4.8, 6 and 7.2V windings.....in fact the more I think about it-the more I think that it would be not too difficult to knock up a homemade equivalent using a bit of PVC plumbing pipe as the housing...and you can get matching PVC end caps to make the job easier, as well
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
07-03-2017, 08:14 AM
#29
Basically it´s a Mabuchi 540 motor, some pvc tubing for mounting the motor and the switch, and a prop adapter with an plastic endcap with some rubber tube inside.
It turns about 10~12K RPM, enough for starting .020 and .049 TD's.
Always check that the engine isn´t flooded to avoid internal damages (or an ultra fast unscrew of the propeller
)Claudio
Last edited by cortacesped; 07-03-2017 at 08:17 AM.
07-03-2017, 12:46 PM
#30
Looks good, what do you use for batteries? I had been thinking of making one like that, but just put a piece of heater hose inside my regular cone in my starter. It works fine but is overkill.
07-03-2017, 07:47 PM
#31
08-23-2018, 01:36 PM
#32
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I know that this is an old thread. I( wanted to contribute at the time of this thread but laziness and a long recovery from a leg amputation is my excuse. My starter for 1/2 A and smaller was built around an motor recovered from an electric tool. It might be still available as a brushed 500 motor. I think I built it at least 15 years ago. I used it only on motors that were modified with a steel thrust washer. I have never had a problem with a piston lock.
Gene
Last edited by g-rock; 08-23-2018 at 01:39 PM.
08-23-2018, 02:14 PM
#33
starter
I know that this is an old thread. I( wanted to contribute at the time of this thread but laziness and a long recovery from a leg amputation is my excuse. My starter for 1/2 A and smaller was built around an motor recovered from an electric tool. It might be still available as a brushed 500 motor. I think I built it at least 15 years ago. I used it only on motors that were modified with a steel thrust washer. I have never had a problem with a piston lock.
Gene
08-29-2018, 04:05 AM
#34
what are people doing differently today than years ago to start a cox .049 or .020 engine ?. we never had any trouble getting them running when I was a kid. a little squirt in the port and a flip or two and they were going every time,.... all the time. are people today so lazy they can't tolerate flipping these little motors a few times ?. and don't tell me it's because of getting bit by a prop. I never once got bit and we starting our planes by ourselves on the local park's baseball diamond and our prop driven cars in our alleys in 3rd grade. what's the matter ?.
08-29-2018, 04:14 AM
#35
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what are people doing differently today than years ago to start a cox .049 or .020 engine ?. we never had any trouble getting them running when I was a kid. a little squirt in the port and a flip or two and they were going every time,.... all the time. are people today so lazy they can't tolerate flipping these little motors a few times ?. and don't tell me it's because of getting bit by a prop. I never once got bit and we starting our planes by ourselves on the local park's baseball diamond and our prop driven cars in our alleys in 3rd grade. what's the matter ?.
08-29-2018, 06:31 AM
#37
what are people doing differently today than years ago to start a cox .049 or .020 engine ?. we never had any trouble getting them running when I was a kid. a little squirt in the port and a flip or two and they were going every time,.... all the time. are people today so lazy they can't tolerate flipping these little motors a few times ?. and don't tell me it's because of getting bit by a prop. I never once got bit and we starting our planes by ourselves on the local park's baseball diamond and our prop driven cars in our alleys in 3rd grade. what's the matter ?.
08-29-2018, 07:31 AM
#38
We started the TD .049s with a starter mounted on a toolbox, and opened the needle until it would start. I can't think of a better way to start any motor with a bladder. I am not real quick with the forceps, especially now. I run off the prime and it takes 4 or 5 tries to get to the forceps or tubing clamp. Our motors were lapped so loose that there was hardly any compression. Now I flip 10 or 20 times and if it seems like it will go, then I won't use the starter. It is right there in the toolbox beside me though anyway. The reedies rarely need the starter. Smaller engines I have found a bit more tempermental than .25 and larger.
08-29-2018, 11:05 AM
#39
there were, as you say "high performance" Cox .049's back then too.....a buddy of mine flew competitive 1/2A freeflight back then. his dad owned a machine shop in Germantown and he shaved plugs and cylinders, lapped pistons and even changed port timing on the .049's for more rpm, all the time,( which would make them even harder to start) turning those things into snarly little monsters. his engines had such high compression the heads were converted to use a glow plug from a bigger engine because the seal was better and the element was tougher on them. compression was so high you could barely get the prop hub to spin over tdc with your bare fingers. they still fired right off with a little prime and a flip or two, all the time,...in fact they started better than a stock motor,....I never saw anyone use a starting motor.
you have to be doing something wrong.
you have to be doing something wrong.
08-29-2018, 03:16 PM
#40
There is a time limit for starting, or it is an attempt. You only get 3 attempts, and it is nice to post a time and try to improve it for the next attempt. You don't want to fiddle around to prove a point. That is for the speed events, racing does not allow starters. I still do that a bit. Not the speed any more. No pavement to fly from around here. Yes, I had two records in 1/2A for a while, and still have a machine shop too. FAI Speed has changed a lot since I flew it, but I doubt anyone would hand flip those things.
