Rendegade

My enya .09 is again begging for a home, but considering I've managed to extract more horsepower from my watch, I'm not really impressed with it,

It has a bad tendency to wanna go very lean in verticals, and four stroke in horizontals.

Also if I use too much nitro it really pings, A LOT.

And the throttle is myergh... []

I'm swinging a 7x4, using full castor and no nitro, any ideas on hor to make it reliable?

Lynn S

I had one of those and I don't think I ever ran it. I still have the 7x4 prop but not the engine. How about using a 6x3, or 6x4 prop with nitro fuel?

Rendegade

yeah good call.

Also I thought of a problem that most of you guys have hit in the past, fuel lines being too thick, can anyone see a problem with fitting morphine tubing down the centre of normal fuel tube to basically halve it's i.d. and hence 1/4 it's area???

BMatthews

The fuel line is not the problem. It's just that it's not that strong an engine what with being an old loop scavenged type of mill. Heck, I had one of these back in my teens powering a Jr Flite Streak and it was fine for that but that was a small model.

You can improve the fuel suction by putting a 1/2 or 3/4 inch length of tubing onto the carb intake. Making the intake longer should help with the suction. But I can't do anything about the power. Running a 6x3 on it won't help. It'll rev faster but in the end it won't pull any better. FWIW I used to run mine on the control line model with a Top Flite 8x4 and it seemed to run well. Now Top Flite white nylon props were known for being finer in pitch than they were supposed to be so if you can find an 8x3 you may be able to gain more direct torquy pull out of the engine. But a speed demon it'll never be. It's natural home is in a 400 sq inch old timer flying sedatley.

Rendegade

I was thinking of jamming it into a 60" grob motor glider, to putter around on lazy tuesday evenings at the local park.

I might try the longer intake mod, cheers for the advice Bruce!

gcb

Rendegade,

How much running time is on the engine and which version is it?

Enyas need lots of break-in time. Once broken-in they seem to last forever.

I would suggest a MINIMUM of 7x4. That's not a modern high-revving engine. You might try an 8x4 if the engine is broken-in. Also make sure you are using a short plug.

Your local hobby shop should have small and medium fuel tubing.

Good luck with your Enya .09.

George

buzzard bait

I have the old 09 III from the 60s and it flies a 25 oz 350 sq in flat bottom airfoil homebrew plane very well with an MA 8 x 3. Don't know rpms--not a powerhouse but gets my plane off the ground very quick and loops easily from level flight. No muffler--has the old exhaust butterfly baffle. I use 10% nitro, half castor lube.

I haven't noticed your mixture problem, but then sustained vertical is not really its M.O.! Have you added muffler pressure by any chance? If so, I'd try removing it.

An old review in MAN said it ran surprisingly well on a TF 10 x 3 1/2! I could look it up and get rpm figures on various tested props if anyone is interested.

I like that little donkey.

Jim

Rendegade

EEEEEEEE HooOOORRRRR

EEEEEEEE HooOOORRRRR

hehehe, I'm looking for something that's reliable for my little grob, another cutey with long skinny wings!

I think it'll fit the bill nicely, but yeah, maybe more break in time is in order. I'll strap it to a 12 oz tank and let it hum away on a 7 x 4 a little longer perhaps...

rcuser004

My Feedback: (287)

The Enya .09 is a great engine with plenty of power. I recently ran one against two of my OS .10 FP engines on an APC 7x4 with 15% nitro. The two OS .10s turned 15,100 and the Enya .09 turned 14,900.

Check your needle valve spraybar to make sure it is screwed into the carb so the end of it is
just shy of being in the center of the venturi. I had the identical same problem with an Enya .15TV (same basic engine as the .09) several years ago when I was a rookie in the hobby.
I backed out the spray bar thinking I would gain power with the extra venturi area. What I actually did by backing out the spraybar was to reduce the ability of the engine to suck fuel into the carb and destroyed a perfectly good engine by having it lean out in the air.

Good Luck,
Mike

gcb

Rendegade,
The 12 oz tank won't help much. For an iron/steel setup you need to heat cycle the piston. Iron "grows" as it heat cycles. You could break it in a lot faster by running it for a series of two minute runs a little on the rich side, followed by complete cool down. Each run plus a cool down is a heat cycle. When you stop it after the two minutes, do so by pinching off the fuel, not by richening or throttling.
Works for me! Good luck with it.

George

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I've been running in a new Enya .09 for the last couple of months using the 'very slowly, when I get round to it' method

I have been using the cycling method it as George mentioned, and today it seemed to be running very steadily and comfortably. I am using a Master 8*4 and tached it at 12,000 rpm this afternoon. Applying the maths, that's about equivalent to a 7*4 at 15,500 in terms of volume of air moved.

I'd happily swap my OS10FP (which doesn't want to know anything over a 7*5) for another Enya .09. Hint hint

The point made above about getting the spray bar centred in the venturi was a good one. I've just started running in a newish Enya .19. After reading the post I checked the position of the spraybar end, and sure enough, it was off-centre. Re-positioned it and bingo, smoother running and better idle. This engine still has some breaking in to go but I'm looking forward to flying it.

Rendegade

Oh, I should point out that this is an enya 0.9 T.V. with that miniscule little carby on it!

phuffstatler

My Feedback: (20)

Mine was awfully sensitive to tank location. Ran it with an 8x4, as I recall. Had a vibration that foamed up the fuel, which was my major problem. Hope it all works out for you...

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

Mine is also the TV version.

JVB