Lomcevak Duck

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Hey guys. Have recently been toying with the idea of a 1/2A pylon racer and wanted to get some outside oppinions and advice before I got started. I have some experience with 1/2A stuff, but it was all "back in the day" AM and Cox. I also have some experience with pylon racing, but don't want to compete with this one; but would like a small and simple plane with a bit of a kick. I have some ideas to run by you and hope to get some insigtful feedback. So here goes...
-Looking at the Lanier Dominator 200 as the kit, but only because I don't know of many other brands. Is this a descent kit? I am hoping to find something at the swap meet in Perry next weekend, so any other recomendations would be welcomed.
-Thinking about a Cox killer bee on the front. Is this going to be enough power? How quick is this plane going to be? Do you recomend a throttled engine? How much nitro should I use?
-Radio... yea. I fly Futaba and would like to keep it Either Futaba, Tower, or Hitec gear. I am assuming the Fut. R127DF is too large. What about the R114? I also have a GWS naro flight pack from a park flyer. Is this receiver too small? too short ranged?
-Servos: How much torque do I need? I would like to use Ailerons and V-tail only, or throttle if the engine allows.
Thanks for all the comments. I appreciate the feedback, and keep chasing the gnats.

Andrew

Hello Hulapig1 (not kin to CombatPig are you?)

The Dominator series is pretty popular and the 200 can be built as a V-tail or conventional. Wing is a high wing built up -- not foam. Another similar model is the SIG Hummer -- nice kit with built up wing. It is low wing with conventional tail, but could be converted to V-tail with little work. I have a conventional Hummer and like it.

I think you would be more pleased with a throttled engine -- the posters in this forum are probably equally split between COX and NORVEL. There are a number of COX gurus here, Tim Wiltse, Dickeybird, AJC, Combatpig and others who can get everything out of a COX and throttle response too. However, if you want a real engine [8D], with carb and piston/wristpin, then pick one of the NORVELs. There are several threads here on COXISTs vs NORVELITES -- aside from a little ribbing from each group, there is a wealth of information. The Big Mig .061 is currently stocked out (or at least a bit harder to find), but the other models are available. If you want all out speed, then the AME version would be your choice. NORVEL states that the AME's are a little harder to break in and may be slightly less responsive to throttle at the low end. Aside from personal preferences, the NORVEL .061 does give about 25% more displacement than the .049's -- there ain't no substitute for CID.

There are also a number of radio choices and associated threads. I have Hitec RX's and servos, but Futaba and Tower TX's. I have had good performance from the Hitec Micro 555 and the Electron 6. Generally, I will use HS-55 on throttle and HS-81's for the surfaces. Several others are using other brands with equally good reports. Someone here likely has experience with the GWS flight pack and will have to comment on its reliability.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI HULAPIG!! OINK,BROTHER! I needed an excuse to show this thing off, it was built for an 020 that I still haven't got running, so I slapped a run of the mill 049 on it, and it is pretty fast and lots of fun. I am using HITEK HS-55 servos, and a GREAT PLANES 4CH micro rcvr, the battery is a 150, or 210 mah NIMH. I made a form fitting tank out of hobby store tin, and 3/32" tubing. It weighs 7.2ozs RTF. If you're interested in building one, let me know.

jboy381-RCU

the GWS flight pack is a good one,IF youare going to keep it kinda close(less than 1000 feet)...i have the pico flight pack in my LS150 and it works fine...i think that the naro servos are about the same as HS80's(not real sure on that tho)...

i think a better chiose would be the M5 from FMA...the range is just like a normal RX(1 to 2 miles)...less battery drain also...

john

Lomcevak Duck

My Feedback: (14)

Wow, another flying pig!!! Great onfo guys, thanks! Oh, and Combatpigg, what is it?

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

HI STEVE! It's a scratch built thing. I guess you could call it the "UGLY SUCKER". If you took down the basic numbers to build one, you could make styling changes to suit your liking. It is made out of 3/32" sheet, and it has a 1/2"by1/8" spar, and I doubled the spar the inner 8 inches. It has surprising performance for a rudder plane, but would be even better with ailerons, but heavier. An ordinary reed 049 should put out 9ozs of thrust, so plan accordingly. BTW, the Great Planes receiver I mentioned has a range of 900', and I have been told can get interered with by other flyers.

Jeff Leavitt

Hulapig,

I've built several D200's. The kit is really nice, good wood and all laser cut, you'll like it. The only thing is, that the nose is way too short, and you'll have to add weight to keep it from being tail heavy. Now we all know weight is the enemy, so extend the nose so the firewall is 5" forward of the leading edge and you'll be fine. Keep it light and you should be able to keep it under 12 oz. Bag the throttle, use the M5 receiver, and hs 55 servo's. Put the battery forward in the tank compartment, tank aft of the battery. Use crankcase pressure to the fuel tank and you'll get good runs. Taper the elevators from 3/4" in the center to 1/2" on the outboard end. two inches aft of the leading edge is good for the CG. I love the look of the V tails but they aren't worth the extra work. getting them straight is a pain. This airplane set up as noted here is a real groovy flyer, but be sure your elevator throws are not more that 1/4" max, 3/32" is better, and 1/8" is better yet! Set the expo on your xmitter to 60% and instead of the 9" ailerons std. reduce them to 8" Speed is real good and while not exactly world class it will beat 90% of the competition and give you a real fun to fly 1/2 sport/racer. I'll enclose a pic of one of my dominators, rectangle wing, this one is scratch built with a MH 33 airfoil. 7.26% thick is considerably faster than the standard foil. Good luck to you...this is fun stuff.... Rgds, Jeff

Lomcevak Duck

My Feedback: (14)

Jeff: How much torque do the HS-55s put out? Did you run one or two ail. servos, and what did you habg on the front? Thanks.

Zeroman

Dominator with a 074.

Jeff Leavitt

Steve,
I use a single aileron servo. It's the simplest. Make all the linkage equal from side to side, and no play. No real need to do much else. On the std. D200 wing there is plenty of room to have the majority of the servo buried inside the wing. Watch how much hangs into the fuse below the wing, this can impact where you place your other equip. While were on the subject of ailerons, I mentioned shortening them to 8". I should have also said to take that off the outboard tip. This will allow for a much smoother and easier flying racer, It won't be so touchy on the ailerons, same is true of the reduced elevator area.

The hitech 55's are about 13 oz. of torque, never had a problem . They do not center the best, but I haven't seen any of the small ones that will. Never had a centering problem in the air, and the 55's never quit on me. I do have some other small ones, but I can tell you the 55's will be o.k. with confidence, also, look at 60's.... nice.

The front end. I have a couple of really strong Norvel's that will launch at 28-29,000. But I use VA's exclusively. I may be a little under proped launching at 30K but there is no sag in the r's anywhere on the course. When she comes downhill a little the sound of the engine unloading will make the hair on the back of your neck stand up. I'm guessing it's around 32k. When I extend the nose on the fuse, I put a solid block of balsa in the nose. I taper the nose round to 1 1/8" in dia. use a 1/8" ply for the firewall that the engine screws to using a hex head 1/2" sheet metal type screw. the mount is a radial that screws into the engine taking the place of the crankcase cover on the engine and if you guessed that it's also 1 1/8" in diameter your right on. Very clean and simple set up. Totaly dependable, and strong. I may have some pic's that I can post later. Rgds, Jeff

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

As for 1/2A throttled powerplants, the new VA MKII RC is going to be to look at seriously I think. I just got mine in the mail today, and will run it soon. BUT.... my old VA MKI with the tarno carb will haul around my 22 or 24 ounce carbon delta with authority, and made my Simple 400 go like snot! (pretty much unlimited vertical).

They are a nice engine, well made and allthough higher priced than the Norvel, one to definitely look at. I bought the new RC version without hearing anything about it, on the basis that the VA's have such a great rep in the CL circles, and my experience with them has been very good.

Now I just have to run it to give my hands on experience....

But it is designed to run fast.... pylon racer material. And its also rear exhaust, and will respond to a tuned pipe very nicely.

AJC

Lomcevak Duck

My Feedback: (14)

I would love to get my hands on one of these VA engines. Who distributes them and around what price should I expect? Thanks again for all of the great advice.

ajcoholic

My Feedback: (10)

Larry Driskill at Kitting it Together sells them, for $70 US.

see the thread going on here - "my new VA MKII RC.."

AJC

Larry Driskill

Hey Jeff,

Based on your detailed suggestions to the new pig, I just ordered a Dominator 200 kit. Probably I should have had it dropped shipped to you so you would have something to work on!

Larry Driskill

Jeff Leavitt

Hi Larry,

Not such a bad idea as the Dominator is a most enjoyable build. Your going to like it, and you'll have a lot of fun flying it. Here's a couple of pic's that I had of a T tail version. the front of the fuse will show a idea for the nose, I build all of mine this way. That's a 2 oz. Sullivan Tank and it sits pretty close to the CG. A small dab of silicone at the rear is all that's needed to secure the tank. One oz. in the tank is all that is needed for a 10 lap race. Crankcase pressure will push the fuel the required 9" for perfect runs. The pressure side of the tank goes directly to pressure tap, no breaks in the line anywhere, no bends etc... Tank is filled through the fuel side by using a syringe (yours is the best I've found) to pull any remaining fuel out of the tank. Turn the crank till the window is open (here's the vent) add fuel to the tank. Be sure not to overfill.... Major pain in the butt. Only one line outside the fuse, works great. Important that Aerotrend "small" fuel tubing be used. Smaller id's wont work in my experience. battery goes in front of the tank. One servo behind the wing for the elevator. I use the Sullivan 507 cable and sheath for the elevator. I hope you'll find as I have that done this way, 1.2a's will run and fly as good as the big ones do. Most fun you can have with your clothes on! Rgds, Jeff

Jeff Leavitt

One more time....

Here's a pic of a Shrike that uses the same style nose. A little more detail... Jeff

Larry Driskill

Jeff wrote:

I hope you'll find as I have that done this way, 1.2a's will run and fly as good as the big ones do. Most fun you can have with your clothes on! Rgds, Jeff


Well. . . having reached the probable half way marker in my life, plus a couple of years, or so, - - -I'm kinda thinkin' 1/2A planes and equipment may be about the most fun I can have regardless of attire, or lack thereof. . .

Hey, how does one retrieve a quote, such as Jeff's above, without retyping it? Will 'The Universe' do that for me?

Larry Driskill

nekked_man_2000

Hi-lite it, copy it, paste it using the "quote" button in the reply to message. I has to be between the quote and /quote brackets and all.

Larry Driskill

Hey, Thank You,